n8cas4

I love the sensitivity of Braid to Fluoro on my spinning set-ups. However, when I get hung-up and I can't get the lure back the break off is happening at my leader knot. This started happening when I was using the double-uni knot to connect the braid to the FC. Recently, I've switched to the Bob Sands knot for my leader connection. I love this knot, but it still does not solve my problem. 99% of the time I tie a palomar knot to connect my leader to the lure on my spinning set-ups using 8lb Fluoro, (12lb Braid is my main line). The problem with the palomar is that I use up a lot of my leader when I retie. I keep my leader length only 8 feet so the leader knot does not smash against the first rod guide every time I cast. Also, the palomar is a very strong and easy to tie knot (which is actually a problem in my situation). My problem is, I use up my leader very quickly if I switch lures or I break it off entirely if I get snagged and can't get it back. It's becoming too much hassle to deal with on tournament days. Maybe I need to find a knot where I don't have to use that much excess tag line when I tie it. Therefore my 8 ft leader would stay longer throughout the day. And perhaps I need to find a knot that has a breaking strength LESS than the Bob Sands breaking strength. This way, when I do get hung-up and have to break off, it breaks at the lure knot instead of the leader knot. I want to avoid tying on a leader during tournament days. This normally doesn't happen using higher lb test on my casting set-ups, just spinning. Anybody else experience this problem or is it just me? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I'm going to use old 50 lb braid from last season as the backing for one of my Curado's. Do I need to put a thin layer of mono line on the spool first before the braid like I normally do if I'm tying on braid? I've never tied braid straight to a spool before. I was always told it will slip and to put cheap mono or FC down first. Is that needed if I'm using the braid as the backing?

Confidence is what it's all about. I have none with a jig - going to try and change that this year.

I don't fish the higher prize tournaments - just local clubs and B.A.S.S. Nation tournaments. But I replace my spinning fluoro once every 3 to 4 days worth of fishing. If I start to use more braid on my spinning set-ups, that'll save me some money - but I want to use good quality line which is still expensive. I couldn't even think of buying the top-of-the-line products like Tatsu or whatever.

What's heavier - mono or braid? When I saw Marten's video, I was unsure of his concept, but here is how I saw it: I was thinking braid was heavier than mono OR at least more densely packed - I could be wrong. But I was thinking the braid being heavier or more dense closer to the spool center would mean more weight closer to the spool center. I thought of my Shimano Curado's centrifugal brake system. When the plastic knobs on the curado brake system are pushed in the spool spins faster. When there is more weight (heavier or more densely-packed line) closer to the spool center, the spool will spin faster therefore extending the cast. Am I completely wrong? Accuracy is very important in a cast, but let's not forget those who fish in very clear water WANT the extra long cast so as not to spook the fish.

I change pretty often. I don't want to waste line with how much it costs. This includes left over line from last season (even the season before last).

40's. If the ice ever melts up in CT

But still most prefer silicon to rubber in colder conditions?

This is the article that made me think rubber is the way to go in cold water: http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfootballjigspg4.html "Rubber skirts have the key advantage in colder, deeper waters of flaring out more than their silicone counterparts and the skirts on these Bass Patrol's jigs are no exception to this rule." When I saw the silicon in the underwater pic - it was no comparison.

My fault. Hair jigs aside. I have those tied on up until the water is 50 anyways. I'm talking 3/8 to 1/2 oz jigs in staging areas before they move up shallow to spawn

I understand the concept of slowing the bait down in cold water conditions. How about the use of rubber or silicon skirts? Rubber is more lively and probably does a better job of providing bulk/body to the jig quicker when compared to a silicon skirt in cold water. I'm probably taking upwards of 3 minutes plus bringing the jig back to the boat through the target zone giving the most subtle twitches for very little movement of the jig on the bottom. Wouldn't the rubber skirt entice a bite more than a silicon as it would provide movement with just the slightest twitch of my rod? I'm a little unsure as I've been told to use both rubber skirts only and silicon skirts only in cold water.

Does fluorocarbon line slowly deteriorate over time on the spool in it's original packaging? I have an old spool of 6lb seaguar abrasix that I did not use last season (purchased probably December 2012). It has remained in my basement out of the sun and has not been exposed to any drastic temperature changes. Can I confidently use it this spring? I can understand that the longer it stays on the spool the worse the memory becomes, but I could probably stretch the line to solve that issue. Do spools list the date when they were originally packaged at the factory? Has anyone experimented with breaking strength using the same line just different 'ages'? If I'm going to use such a light line, I want to make sure it's in top shape.

Can you sell it back to the company? Or does it have to be a private buyer?

What's the actual "package"? The angler is a $ 40,000 package and the co-angler is a $25,000 package? What's the motor size for co-anglers? Can't get too much Horsepower for $ 25,000 in a fully rigged boat, can you?

Thx. What about size? I couldn't see throwing bigger than 2.5 1/2 ounce. Do you ever throw a 3/4oz ? Those SK RES 3/4 are pretty big!

Man, how do you let that one slip? Do the pros get to see their segments before they're aired? I'd be embarrassed if it I was EE.

I'd like to gain some confidence this upcoming year with lipless cranks. I'm trying to put together a very basic collection. I already have a couple silent LC lipless cranks, chrome and gold yo-zuri's, and ghost xcaliburs. Most 2.5inches and 1/2 oz. But in all my research I've done to date, everyone seems to love the color red. Why is this? Does this apply even up in New England waters? I'm looking to add a few one-knockers and some SK RES - but before I choose colors, I just wanted to know, why red?

Yeah Martens definitely won, but Ott Defoe introduced an Edwin Evers segment with, "the 2013 B.A.S.S. Angler of the Year"

It's on Outdoor Channel now, I believe. Big screw-up on their part, nonetheless.

According to the latest episode of Bass Pros. Did I hear wrong? Did anybody else catch that?

Does the CPS spring catch a lot of grass? What benefits does using the spring to flip have over say a strong off-set EWG or straight shank?

Cliff Pace won the 2013 classic using a twin tail grub trailer. And the twin tail grub has a ton of movement with just the slightest action or water current. Water temps at that event were between 39 and 45 degrees.

I love the KVD 1.5 square bill's. The tackle sites list them as: Strike King KVD HC Square Bill Silent CrankbaitWhat does the HC stand for? I'm thinking about buying a few KVD 1.5 HC flat side cranks. Do the flat sided have rattles? If they do, does SK offer a silent flat sided crankbait? What's the best color for the KVD flat side in New England clear water? Thanks.

Float it - their website seems to be down at the moment - but their video on youTube is up just search Float it worm

Talk to Mitch. It's a subscription site though. 15 bucks a year