aavery2

A good starting point would be a Medium Heavy Moderate Fast 7' rod, a reel with a lower gear ratio, something like a 5.4:1, 12# test FC line. This will cover a lot of different cranks and get you started. Once you get into it more you will find out that you will want 3 or 4 crankbait rods to more finely tune your crankbait fishing.

I look forward to reading your manifesto.

Chiefs will need more offense against Denver, but I can't wait to see how their defense holds up against Payton.

Step your MH Bucoo up to a heavy for the jigs and heavy t-rigs.

I have fished all the rods on your list minus the Jadewood. My personal choice would be between the *** and the Falcon. A majority of the rods I fish are made by Falcon, I enjoy the build quality and the customer service, the fact they are also made in the USA is a factor for me as well. If you go with the Falcon, just adjust your choice of rod based on what you know and like about rod power and action. They transmit vibration as well as any of the others on your list.

They usually come with several extra in the box.. They are cheap to buy and should be replaced periodically. Most anglers only use two or three on for most of their fishing, you can take the rest of them off and put them up for use later if you want. Shimano has one of the very best centrifugal braking systems available.

Just save yourself the time and frustration, get yourself 3 or 4 pointer 100 and 78 SP a couple of MB 110's and fish them until you know them inside and out. They suspend better, have a better finish, and often catch fish when nothing else will. I have often heard many anglers on here state that I wish I would have just bought this higher end gear instead of the entry level equipment, I would have saved myself a lot of money. Trust me, this is the same situation and an opportunity to benefit from the experience of others.

I understand what you are trying to say and understand your reasoning. But using that same logic would it not also be fair to say, "don't worry about cleaning those bearings, just back your brakes off a little more". There are many benefits to super tuning a reel, have one done by someone that really knows their business and see what you think.

Yes, the CI4 is the one I am speaking of.

I guess I am on the other side of shotguns being good home protection weapons. The racking of a shotgun may be a very recognizable sound and elicit fear in an intruder, but it also has some negatives associated with it. The sound may tip an intruder off to your location, it also may prompt an intruder to fire his weapon. It takes much longer for a follow up shot, recoil is much greater and with the longer barrel it is not good in close quarters. Any weapon is better than none at all, but my house is protected with a glock handgun. The only warning an intruder gets in my house is muzzle flash.

For me it's as simple as the materials used in the construction of the reel. The reel feels cheap to me, there were several little details that could have been improved to make the reel much nicer IMO. A clicking spool tension knob, aluminum dragstar, and brake dial, the handle nut retainer. If your going to produce a carbon composite reel, then why not use a carbon handle. None of these details would have greatly increased the mfg cost and would have made a big difference in the finish of the reel. Overall I think it is a great platform to build from, but the current version certainly has room for improvement. .

I went to Cabelas today and checked out the CI4 , been having thoughts of buying one. All I am going to say is that it is not the reel that I thought it would be. The Core is still a much better reel IMHO.

TW is IMHO the best of the best, give them a call, they will make it right.

A typical cast with a bait caster when properly adjusted and rod and line matched to the bait in use and power and action of the rod is somewhere between 30-40 yards, with exceptions to every rule. I have no problem matching distance with a spinning reel, when baits above a 1/4oz are being used. Once you go below a 1/4oz, spinning reels get the edge unless you are willing to spend the money required to purchase a BC reel capable of throwing lighter baits.

Typically refers to the amount of line the reel will take up when the spool is full or near full.

Lower gear ratio reels provide more torque, like a car in low gear. When you increase in speed you lose torque. Deep diving crankbaits and large bladed spinnerbaits are two that come to mind that benefit from using lower ratio reels.

Here is my suggestion, put some line on one of those reels you have, pick a rod and go fishing.

Sounds like a low pressured pond, with an abundance of fish. Try dragging a jig and trailer around in some of that wood, might be surprised how big a fish lives there.

In a lot of instances pumpkinseed tends to be a brighter color than bluegill. With that in mind the pumpkinseed color may be more effective in clear water situations, where the bluegill color may be better suited to waters that have a little color to them. I use them both without much regard to water color.

The sammy is one of the easiest top water baits to walk. Where people oFten have problems is not leaving enough slack in the line. You have to leave more slack than you would think. If the sammy dont get it done for you try the LC Gunfish,I have not seen anyone who could not make it walk.

Just an F.Y.I. The Gen 1 Revo SX was the one with the single piece spool shaft. While the schematics often do not show the bearing behind the engagement pin, there was one present. To my knowledge there has never been a Revo that does not. The Gen 1 SX was an 11 bearing reel, 4 - handle, 1-AR, 1- Crankshaft, 2-levelwind, 1-brake side plate, 1-aft spool bearing(behind the pin) and 1-Tension Cap for a total of 11.

I am assuming he meant Revo SX, the SX is a magnetic brake reel, so that would eliminate any issue with centrifugal brakes. Maybe spool bearings but they would have to be in horrible shape to actually be screeching. I would remove the spool and wipe the lips down with alcohol, inspect the frame and clean the areas that the spool lips ride in with a Q-tip and alcohol. If it's new, I would not even mess with it, I would just get it replaced.

This setup is one I have been fishing a lot lately. It is a Daiwa Fuego that has several upgrades, level wind bearing, carbontex drag washer, Abec 7 spool bearings, Daiwa 100M spool, Diawa Steeze swept dragstar and a 4 bearing carbon fiber handle. The rod is a Falcon Cara Finesse Jig model, it throws the lighter baits like a dream.

I don't think you will have any damage, maybe a little more wear on the brake tabs than usual. The pitch brakes are designed to provide braking at much lower spool speeds than the regular casting brakes. Why not just adjust the brakes to how you are fishing?

The power of a crankbait can be anything, usually M, MH of H you can use this to determine how heavy a bait the rod will work well with, the action will come in moderate, or moderate fast for all these powers and deteremines how far down the blank the rod will flex. Crankbait rods are offered in several different materials, glass, composite, and carbon fiber. Each of these rods have their own characteristics and a MH Moderate in one material will be much different than the others.