aavery2

The sharp square rear end makes me think Bagley.

That's a serious piece of equipment, very nice.

Is that a slant bridge?

Black and blue Lake Fork Tube Craw was my go to bait a few years ago. Caught fish on it in everything from very clear sand pits to very muddy creeks.

Do a search on Donkey Rig, or Double Zulu rig, it will give you a good idea of what we are in reference to.

I use a palomar to the swivels and improved clinch to the baits. I find the palomar an easier knot to tie to the swivel than any type of knot that requires wrapping of the line because the swivels tend to spin.

I would probably go with the Revo Elite Aurora on a new Dobyns Zayta. Would be a nice combo to fish.

Curado 201E5 is a good low priced alternative.

The inner tube slides down over the main shaft and rests on top of the drag washer stack, it is also the inner race for the anti-reverse bearing. I assemble the inner tube on the drive shaft prior to installing the handle side plate. I can't understand how you would have any drag pressure at all without the inner tube.

It will make the drag on your reel not function as there is nothing to provide pressure from the drag star to the drag disks, it also means that the anti-reverse bearing will not work and the reel if equipped is relying on the anti-reverse pawl to provide this function. Bottom line the reel will not work without it.

Since no one else has posted yet, I will offer some food for thought. My disclaimer is that this post is in no way meant to challenge the knowledge of anyone who may have more knowledge than myself on the way bass see underwater. With that said, red and orange are long wavelength colors, what this means in common terms is that they are the first to lose their ability to reflect light when submersed in water. Water clarity and a host of other variables combine to determine at what depth these colors lose their light reflecting ability. It is generally thought that red and orange can lose this ability is as little as 3 to 4 foot of water, and then appear as shades of gray. If you take a look at the baby bass scheme and think about it in terms of contrasting grays the orange color starts to matter less and the color it is paired with become more important. Colors are believed to lose their ability to reflect light in this order, red, orange, yellow, green, blue and violet. Each lose their ability at a slightly different depth. Next time you look at a bait, think about the depth that it is designed to run and which colors will actually display as color and which will display as a shade of gray. Makes for an interesting discussion if nothing else.

The bandit 200's are a good little bait, but I don't think they are capable of reaching the depths that you mentioned in your original post. I believe the 200 series have a rating of about 8ft max they also only weight 1/4 oz. I prefer the Norman Deep Little N it will get you much closer to the desired depth range at 10-12ft and the baits weights 3/8 oz, helping with casting distance, which is important to help get the baits down to max depth. At any rate, both good baits, IMHO the Norman comes closer to matching your requirements.

Norman Deep Little N

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I'll make that trade with you if the reels you have are in good shape.

Check out a hook by owner called the Phantom Hook, it makes what you are trying to do a breeze.

Buy a Boat

As you may notice I did not quote you in my post, therefore it was not intended to be aimed at you, but in reference to exactly that uneducated anglers. Your knowledge of fishing speaks for itself, and my post was certainly not intended to insult you or anyone else on here. It was more in line with your comment about the Chronarch flying off the shelf, and my attempt to explain a possible reason why.

I think that the uneductated angler looks at the name Chronarch and thinks he is buying the quality and features that the Chronarch line once stood for, while it is a very nice reel, it is now little more than a rebadged Curado. You can purchase the Curado E for 135 dollars everyday and not have to wait on a refund.

While I own both, the finish, hooks, and out of the box consistency of the DD22 have made them my first choice. If you are seriously looking into deep divers there are other baits that work well also. You may want to look at the SPRO Little John DD, and one that is becoming my favorite, the Poes Cedar 1200 series. If the 6XD and DD22 are designed for entirely different situations, I would like to be educated as well.

Can't see why those would not work.

Jerkbaits, work great when the water is in the upper 50's, swimjigs, and spinnerbaits moved slowly above and across the bottom have produced well for me, lipless cranks, crankbaits, and t-rigged plastics. I usually start throwing frogs at this time also.

Those turned out very nice, I did change the original design of mine to something more similar to yours, can't wait to get these in the water.

The biggest difference is the G is built on the Caenan frame in aluminum. If you do a quick internet or forum search you will find enough discussion on this topic to keep you busy for quite a while.

DI units are much cheaper, but offer less in the way of coverage. All SI units that I know of are capable of DI also. I am not aware of a SI unit only.