aavery2

I own an XD .40 sub compact, I have been very happy with it's performance.

Iobee

Gen 1 SX used a single piece spool shaft, Gen 2 used the Infinni spool design.

It's really very simple, turn all the brakes off and adjust your spool tension so the bait fall to the floor slowly, turn a couple of the centrifugal brakes on and the magnetic brakes about 1/2 way. Begin casting, if you are backlashing at the start of the cast, turn on another centrifugal brake, if at the end of the cast add more magnetic brake. Continue to adjust until you can make repeatable casts without backlashing. Spool tension should not be used as a brake for your reel, you can actually damage your reel by using too much spool tension. Good Luck

Not to be critical but to get you started off on the right foot so to speak, medium, and medium heavy are actually the power of the rod, moderate,moderate fast, fast and xtra fast are some of the actions that you would normally see in rods. A medium heavy power fast action rod is very versitile and will handle most techniques with some level of sucsess. Good luck

If you change the handle to the one from the E-series, you will loose your clicking dragstar, the handle nut cap has a tab that extends through the handle and clicks on the ridges in the top of the drag star. You may be able to modify the handle but I dont know for sure.

Tried a few different styles of these and to be honest they all fished just fine. The one thing I did notice is that in my opinion the heavier weighted rigs 3/8 and 1/2 fished the best. This is a picture of what I ended up with.

Take a look at TG's RocketFuel and Cal's drag grease.

Jimmy Paige, Trevor Rabin, George Lynch, and Tony Iommi

The mono line is to prevent the braided line from spinning on the spool, I usually put enough mono on the reel to make up the difference of about 50-60 yards of braided line. Use a mono line that is close to the same diameter as the braided line you are using, it will make the knot to join the lines a little easier to tie. I would look at the Albright knot to join the two lines.

Hooligan, which shaft is it that you are finding your variance on? With Abu using a split spool shaft on most everything above the S model, it seems like it would be an easy fix unless the variance is on the spool itself.

This thread has me interested, any updates on what the problem was, and how it was corrected. With there being an issue on both engagement and dis-engagement, I do not think that the problem is going to be with the anti-reverse ratchet, as it only comes into play on re-engagement. Like DVT I am betting on problems in the clutch assembly itself.

Wow, I had no idea. Grew up with No sleep till Brooklyn, Paul Revere, and Brass Monkey. What a shame.

Xuron 496, work well and cost about $12,

JM Carbonlite

Wiggle Warts used to be the hot bait on Table Rock many years ago, worked well at Beaver also.

I had the opportunity to fish Wilson lake about this time last year. In my opinion it is one of the most beautiful lakes in KS. It is very clear water, and is about 70-80 ft deep near the dam. During our trip we caught LM, SM, Walleye, and Crappie. Some of the things that worked for us was Wiggle Warts on the face of the dam, deep cranks, spinnerbaits and swimjigs. Sorry I can't be more help than that, but if you have the opportunity to fish Wilson I say go for it, very beautiful lake.

The 7.1:1 gear set from the Core will work properly as the reels are made on the same tooling. The cost of the gearset is right around $30 if purchased from Shimano.

My personal experience with my Core 100 is that the handle will not support bearings. The handle shafts are machined with a bushing on the bottom and on the upper end the l/h treaded nut that holds the grips on is made so that it act as the bushing, there is no separate bushing to remove. It is a strange design by Shimano, and there have been many conversations about this particular subject, all of them generally ending with the suggestion to replace the entire handle with the handle from the Core 50, which supports 4 bearings, and is slightly longer. You might contact Bantam1 and see if at some point Shimano made a change to the handle, but I do not believe this to be the case as my Core 100 is a fairly recent purchase. Good Luck

I don't believe the handles on the Core 100 are capable of supporting bearings. There are a number of threads about this topic on another site and (Bantam1) has addressed this also. Most are choosing to purchase a Core 50 handle as an upgrade.

844 IMX is a very good Jig rod, I would use FC.

The BC reels from many different MFG's for service have never come from the factory oiled. Oil is a good corrosion preventative as you mentioned, but after it sits for a while it has a tendency to pool, leaving parts unprotected, this is in my opinon why grease is used from the factory. Seems like you have a case of the Devil's Advocate today, gonna have to find someone else to play with, I'm done.

I am a little confused, are we talking spinning or BC.

Probably the same reason they ship reels with the spool bearings greased. I believe it be for corrosion preventative.

One of LC's better baits, I like the American Shad color.