ClackerBuzz

for in interior: cardboard? or duck tape the interior boarder. peel up half the tape and stick newspaper to it. connect all newspaper and tape and carefully peel off. transfer that to cardboard to double check before transferring to wood. for ur truck can't u just stack a few 2x4's till the canoe is balanced and use that height for ur rack. really ur rack doesn't need to be contoured. just the right width and height. you could just screw together a rectangular 2x4' frame that holds it upright (and remove the frame when ur not using it)

are you searching with the Internet or ur toaster?

Jay, i think the unsaid topic might be that ur setting the guinness book of world records for posts. are you searching from the forum pages? searching from the home page will not yield forum results (only articles). I got 12 pages or 285 results from searching 'mirco guides'. you're a nice guy with youth, energy and enthusiasm. use it to dig, expand and explore.

Powell rods are great. you won't be disappointed. I didn't try them yet but I'm sure the Inferno are good stick. But for me it would be all about the warranty and I don't know what their 'limited original owner' policy is (maybe non-transferable). Megastink is right to steer you toward his rods b/c they are the two lines ABOVE the one considered. if ur considering an Inferno (say 'class C') his Max/Endurance are class B and A for a cheaper price. and they have lifetime/transferable warranties. IMO no need to buy an Inferno when you can get a used Max/Endurance or new during a holiday 20% sale for about the same price.

no matter what the business, you need to have enough money saved or alternative income coming in to sustain being in the red for SEVERAL years till you can finally break even or possibly turn a profit. if you roll ur eye's when you read that and think business plans are something for un-passionate people then you better run the other way. retail is extremely hard b/c you have the same bills to pay every month, rain or shine, profit or loss, holiday season or summer slump. testing the water with a 'garage' business is always a good way of knowing what ur getting into. if you feel like there is a need for certain products it would be much easier to start a lure company and get the existing tackle shops to carry ur product and sell it online.

d**n and i thought i was a grouch. the guys first post and he's getting jumped all over. its well written and he provides lots of info. sounds like a fluke so he had a heart for a fish that seemed to be defying all odds and released it again. now he wants to know what the heck happened so he joined this site for some possible answers.. so he can improve his tourny's. and if his regulations allow him to keep SM so be it. i don't have experience with live wells but we've all kept nightcrawlers/insects/mealworms etc in the fridge and seen what it does to their metabolism. 41 deg is cold so maybe it's metabolism slowed down for winter and ur empty live well was nothing but a refrigerator keeping him on ice. maybe more experienced guys can provide info on minimizing live well mortality. don't guys dump ice in them sometimes?

yup CPBass said it. i've lost roboworms to casting. tore up before i even caught a fish. that's what i call a disappointing product. i don't buy them anymore b/c there are too many other options on the market.

i'm with martin and can't use micro guides. i use braid with 6-12' fluoro leaders. they have macro but i didn't feel like the rods have a soft enough tip. tip is one of the most important factors for me b/c you get exhausted casting all day if a cheap rod doesn't have a nice flexible tip. sensitivity is relative. my hands are more sensitive than most. and i use braid which can turn a dead rod into something usable. and i'm good about not having tons of slack out. i like longer handles to. ducketts have a decent length handle but i don't like their tips. dobyns rods are very sensitive, have an amazing tip w/ backbone, ok handle length, but i HATE the guides. i won't buy the rods anymore b/c the guides are static cling when it comes to braid. i spend half my day untangling the braid off my guides (spinning rods; i bought a 7'6" MH champion and returned it b/c it weighted a ton and was wayyyyy to tip heavy). st croix has everything i like but i'd like the handles to be a bit longer. i settled on Powell b/c they have everything i like and are at a great price point especially w/ 20% off sales. lotta info but in the end you just gotta pull the trigger and try new brands. buy them used or on sale so you can resell them w/o losing ur shirt. as said its always best to try and hold the rod in person before buying. i even take my reel into the store to check how balanced the rod it=another important individual opinion.

i did the same and love it. love the handle length and feel. good sensitivity. good tip. i have the ML and have 4lb co poly on it for split shot/weightless techniques. if i could change one thing i would make the guides stronger. i bent them a few times in transport so be careful. an amazing rod for $100. makes most rods in the prince range look like a sapling. you won't be disappointed.

I'm in!

i never liked how every jig has a different weed guard stiffness. house brands, custom, home made, knock offs etc. some are too strong, some too weak. i can't believe how many jigs i lost to timber before i realized a drop or two of superglue half way down the weed guard fixes the problem. when it drys you can 'flex' the brittle glue to whatever stiffness you like. you can turn a cheap e bay jig into a timber bashing machine. just make sure you start with a nice hook.

sorry to hear about ur pain...as well as others posting. health problems are no bueno. my father was rear-ended by a car moving 45mph while he was sitting still waiting to make a left turn. this was 25 yrs ago. it blew out his disks and he had never walked more than a 1/10th of a mile since. and is in chronic nerve pain. he gets at least 2 epidural shots per year which are only a temp solution. i found a stem cell procedure that he is going to try sometime next year. the FDA has approved stem cells for 'grafting' on hard cells( joints and disk/vertebrae). i'm doing all the preliminary work to set him up for the procedure. the woman said it is basically the same as an epidural but they are injecting ur stem cells (taken from ur pelvic area or lower back) instead of steroid. cost can be as low as $500 for one shot to $5,400 for a series of injections to the injury and all surrounding areas/ligaments etc. he needs to provide a recent MRI and the accompanying physicians report (less than 2yrs old) and they are going to tell him if he qualifies. they obviously don't guarantee results but in my book it's a no-brainer, esp if its good enough for Peyton Manning. I know they have a facility in CO and PA (don't know if elsewhere too) here's a video, article and application. maybe it can help others http://www.rapsmd.com/regenexx-overview/ http://www.wtae.com/news/health/stem-cells-being-used-to-repair-knees/-/9680940/22028630/-/5b4wf2z/-/index.html http://communities.washingtontimes.com/neighborhood/steps-authentic-happiness-positive-psychology/2013/sep/6/peyton-manning-poster-child-stem-cell-treatment/

keep using whatever lure you caught hawgzilla with in ur pix

it would have been great if they confiscated the boat!

scratching my head so i pulled out my jewelers scale again for a second look. of course my scale was right both times but apparently nothing can make up for my mistake gram/decimal/fraction conversion skills. good thing my 5th grade teacher mrs husky isn't reading this (or maybe she is!) i can already hear her gloating. 10" ol monster=9.9 grams 10" yum ribbontail=10.5 grams 6" senko=16.2 grams

zoom ol monster=1/32 oz. 6" GY senko is almost 1/16oz i wouldn't pay too much attention to the weight b/c ur t-rigging with a bullet. i fish alot of weightless soft plastics and so i'm very aware of the rate of fall b/c some days the fish want it fast, some days slow. the profile has a lot to do with the rate of fall. your t-rig weighted 10" worm probably has a similar fall rate as a weightless 6" senko bc the senko sinks like a torpedo. where a 10" ribbon is really a skinny 4" worm with a 6" ribbon that falls very slow weightless

don't be afraid of the search bar at the top. it works better than google. type anything from: best rod under $100 BPS carbonlite jig rod worm rod powell vs abu you'll get tons of great reading info

rod 1st. and upgrade to braid. braid to fluoro leader helps with a world of sensitivity no matter what rod you choose

i can't thank you enough for ur post andrew...and the good ending. i was in violation this whole season by not having a PDF on board. I made the plan to buy one this winter to be in compliance. b/c of ur post i could care less about a ticket and now care all about safety. I'm going to take my time and shop around for a comfortable vest that easily fits over a hoodie. then i'll be comfortable and safe.

hate to take the short cut here james but use the search bar at the top of the page. change it to search 'forums'. there are some amazing threads and info. use words like: kayak, ocean kayak, sit in/dry kayak, sit on top, stand kayak, scupper plug, pdf/inflatable

even cheap line casts fine. casting has nothing to do with oil. the spool is a fixed/stationary object. a grind/un-smooth retrieve means oil and maintenance. that many tangles on a spinning reel makes me think you have a nick on the spool or on one of the guides of ur rod. in addition to closing the bail by hand....close it early. 10ft before ur lure hits the water. is there is a chance ur waiting to long and have 20" of slack line hanging between ur reel and 1st guide on the rod? always make sure the line in that area is taunt before reeling up line. and don't have tons of slack line laying all over the water. all these scenarios together will cause major problems. you can get away cheating on one or two.

nothing better than looking at a glass of beer as half full

i buy alot of reels from TW too and oil is hit or miss. call Shimano. i'm sure they will send some out for you. do it now b/c they get overwhelmed with free oil/grease requests in the winter (just gets back ordered a few weeks).

i usually carry 2 rods when bank fishing. i like to have reaction baits. and finesse baits. reaction can be bladed or silent as long as they are moving. finesse can be big (10" ribbontail) or small (4.5" finesse worm) as long as they are worked slowly. a chatterbait is my goto bank fishing reaction lure. it comes thru weeds like butter and literally vibrates the weeds right off so you don't waste casts 1/2 way back b/c a 12" weed is tangled like with a spinnerbait. stroke it as soon as you feel a tangled weed and 90% of the time it comes right off. don't be shy, rip it hard and fast. sometimes it even provokes a strike. however i do not like a chatterbait around chunk rock b/c it wedges in them to easily. a spinnerbait is better here b/c the head bounces off the rocks better. most ponds have weeds and sediment so 90% of the time i have a chatter tied on. rivers and reservoirs have rocks so 90% i'll use a spinnerbait. i also like a jig b/c i can swim it like a reaction bait (at any dept in the water column from topwater, burned under the surface, count down 4-10 ft, bang it thru lily stalks, bounced off the bottom). a jig is my eye's and I can learn the contour of the lake with it. it is also my "silent" reaction/swimjig bait. i step down quickly to a silent reaction if the bass aren't taking a loud/bladed/shiny/vibration lure. also i can pitch, dead stick, and lightly hop a jig and don't have to change out rods to slow way down for finiky bass. like sam said shore fishing is very limited with casting angles so i'm VERY quick to pick up and put down lures, and equally quick to speed up or slow wayyyy down my retrieve. i don't like a jig if the pond has lots of weeds or scum b/c the weed guard collects too much junk. i'll switch to a pegged texas rig b/c the bullet weight comes thru weeds much better. i stopped buying jigs and i'm becoming a t-rig guy. and punch rigs for heavy cover. i just read a great post about using a bead head in front of ur senko/brush hog etc (or any weightless plastic) b/c it comes thru the weeds so much easier. it works great b/c you can slowly inch ur plastic thru the weeds much better. i don't like getting 'hung up on weeds and having to pop my senko free. that senko pop has never yielded a reaction strike for me (unlike a chatter or lipless trap). its b/c of shore fishing i'm now switching to beaver trailers and beaver t-rigs. i was at a pond the other day where you had to cast over 20 ft of pennywort to access open water. just so happened i had a beaver t-rig already on my rod so i used it. i pulled that one beaver thru endless feet of weeds, wort, cast for 2hrs, pulled it thru sticks and tree branches, caught a 3lb bass and never once changed it out. i would have gone thru a pack or two of regular craws b/c the appendages would have ripped off so many. i use the same MH baitcaster rod for my chatterbaits/ jigs/texas rigs and larger weightless plastics/meals like a 6" senko or 1/16oz t-rig 10" ribbon tail worm. (michang5, ur spinning set up sounds perfect. you don't 'need' a BC. it is not a magic bullet that will guarantee more fish. only buy one if you feel inspired to learn it. be prepared for a long and possibly hard learning curve that might not fit recreational needs. as opposed to BC being more suited for tourny/competitive fishing. or from a boat where you can possibly cast 1000+ times a day from many different angles. a BC is less stressful on ur hands with that many casts per day.) my second rod is usually a M spinning for lighter/finesse lures. if i'm in fairly open water I use 6-8lb test b/c it casts farther (10-20ft leaders to 20lb braid; i like the advantage of being able to cut the leader off and go straight braid when i encounter some nasty cover or lily pad field; and love the sensitivity plus solid hook sets). if the reaction bite isn't on I go finesse. 99% of the time bank fishing is for fun and recreation (non-tournaments). a good rule to remember is: lighter weights and/or smaller lures= more bites. also lighter weights=snag less. i usually start with a 5" senko for finesse. a 4.5" zoom finesse worm on split shot usually is a sure thing. it catches fish big and small. if ur getting too many small its time to up size. BPS has 'clam shot' which is split shot w/o ears. they come thru weeds beautifully. i will also use a bobber stop to peg a 1/32oz rooster tail/in-line spinner body (cheap on e bay). i love split shot/mini carolina rigs from shore b/c you can craw over and thru just about anything w/o getting hung up or collecting junk. a roostertail or mepps spinner is usually a good finesse reaction lure. (good panic box stuff). a good thing to be aware of with soft plastics is not only size but rate of fall. somedays a 5" senko just falls to fast for the fish's taste. but i might be catching too many dinks on zoom finesse worms. then i love to switch to a fluke. its got a slower rate of fall that is erratic but still has a large profile. i don't really use them as a jerkbait. i do very well just dead stick/slow drag them like a senko. just like a weightless beaver has a bulky profile but a very slow rate of fall compared to a standard 1/4oz jig. soft plastics flat out catch fish. b/c casts and angles are limited from shore i fish alot of weightless plastics and i'm quick to experiment with rate of fall. i'll move quickly from a 4.5" finesse worm to a tube to a 5" senko to a beaver to a fluke. they all can be worked on the same rod/split shot rig with a 2/0 hook. and they all have a different profile and rate of fall so i can usually get a pattern going fast. don't use ur rod to break baid...or ur hand b/c you'll eventually get cut. set down the rod and pick up a stick. wrap the braid around the stick and pull slowly like ur water skiing. alot of times you can bend out the hooks.

good suggestion wayne. i'm guilty of posting the same questions...and of answering 'use the search function'. to be perfectly honest, this the first site where i really 'learned' how to search forums. i don't know how it's powered glenn but the forum search function works AMAZING. it yields result that get me side tracked reading good posts for hours. search functions and websites back in the day never yielded such relevant information. i've always known to search creatively on google. but I literally had to learned how to search creatively here on BR. getting members to understand that our search function works as good as googles might help flip the switch. it took working thru it for it the light to go off for me. coming right out and saying might cut the chase. BR search function: like Google but only better b/c it's all about fishing. or Use the search function just like you would Google. Direct examples always work well for people. How about suggestion people type the exact title of their potential post directly into the search bar: "Baitcaster under $100" "Best $100 rod" "Hook set help!" "Night fishing" Also try leaving off words to compare one object to many: "Curado vs" "Avid vs" "Mono vs" And a little creativity goes along way with search results. Try using verbs, adjectives (I had to look up how to spell that) etc "Confidence" "Crimp" "Invasive" "Panic Box" The 'two' search bars is confusion though. The homepage search bar yields article results and the forum search bar yields post results. The forum search is where all the magic happens. Don't believe me? Just type toilet paper Maybe a fast easy fix would be a Pop-up screen before u are allowed to post a new thread. It could suggestion something like: "Before you post please take some time and try our search bar. Search for the title of ur proposed post and/or it's related subject: 'Baitcaster under $100' 'Curado vs ' 'Connection knot' 'Pond lures' Think of our forum search bar just like Google. Be creative.