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Pick up some of the OG ruck clunns or the RTOs while you can. Not sure if its the tungsten rattle over brass or what, but they catch way more fish for me than the LCs and for that matter any other squarebill. The 0.5 has given me 50 fish days. Honorable mention that few talk about has been the storm arashi series...I really like the way they creep through a laydown.

I walk into the yard and make a cast for this very reason...Just divide up a handful of sprays as new line stacks up when reeling in. I also sometimes crank the line through a folded smooth sunglass cloth thats damp w/the stuff. You could probably put a little mark on the spool if you wanted to make sure your spraying opposing sides with ea spritz, but I never get that picky.

The luckycraft BDS 3 would be a good fit...Silent, w/a more rounded bill they have more roll than a squarebill (but similar).. they also have a more shad shaped body than say a LC or Rick Clunn. Im not certain, but they may not be made for the US market anymore...There are TONS on ebay, and online however....Ive bought a 1/2 dozen in the last yr or so.

Of the two- the Yozuri. I used to use the #6 ultra soft for small shallow cranks in streams and rivers...it was pretty good line... ideally (as Fishtank already mentioned) the regular defier is much, much better however. Expensive, but just a joy to use.

Yes its coming...I manage cell site development and we’re pushing our guys to scope and order as much as possible asap, as a few of the manufacturers themselves are saying by late 2nd quarter things will likely get very dry.

I’d add a like new chronarch D - or metanium MG/Core w/brass gears and proper handle. I haven't found a low-profile platform that does it for me like that frame, braking system I like over the 6 pin VBS, or gears like the non-micro module brass shimanos, etc.

You may know but last I looked Shimano didnt have the E series curados listed for parts but had the Chronarch E’s up- which are essentially the same reels beyond cosmetics. Worst case going forward parts are also often suprisingly available for older jdm variations

Haw River Tackle bubblegum worms have fooled many, many, many bass for me. They float well on a 2/0 straight shank. A fun little subtle topwater option and also an extremely effective split shotting/carolina rigging option that I just dont throw much because I dont enjoy the technique

As somebody who’s in the market for a Tranx they certainly seem like a viable option at a great price. I would like to handle one- steel on steel isnt all that common for low pro baitcasters; I definitely don't like aluminum main gears over brass, which are also harder. I do LOVE that they give you an unobtrusive clicker option (which abu abandoned after their initial “big” low profile reels). It basically gives you two reels when we striper fish w/lures then bait.

Yeah, the specs aren't even notable...Beyond the fact they painted some graphite parts on a graphite reel and used the word artisan....How does one “redefine urban fishing” anyway? Lol. To each their own I suppose. Obviously someone somewhere likes em.

-D Shad just gets bites. -The caffeine shads have an incredible wiggle on the fall & cast amazing. I’ll go as far as saying I don't know of a plastic that impresses my eyes more than the strike king w/the proper keel weighted hook. Drives big fish in moderate current NUTS when targeting a specific hole or structure. -A bed fishing bait that I like is a modified Manns hardnose fluke. Cut the head w/a razor blade and insert/glue in a tungsten weight... Ive also had great results w/the walmart bargain bin yum houdini shads and Mister Twister “exude” (or something like that) flukes. - Castaic Jerky J is a buoyant bait w/a larger profile that has its place. Like drawing a reaction strike blind pitching into Shady shore line cover or under docks and then bringing in quickly after the initial entry.

Ive been a buzzbait fanatic for 20 yrs and nylon based line is my preference. With braid as a mainline something else has to give- whether its the hole in a fishes mouth becoming a bit larger & making it easier to for a big bass to headshake and throw it, or the wire of the lure getting tweaked and the bait no longer wanting to plane true... Obviously others may like braid but those are my reasons for not using it...With the exception being a spinning rod and little 1/8 ounce buzzers..

I couldve been more clear, not just the teeth....The grease that gets pushed off the drive gear teeth is often excessively all over the inside lip of that gear itself, often ALOT, it gets on the shaft, and the pinion and the tight little tunnel/cavity that it lives in - plus elsewhere where the assembly oscilates ...Point is removing the excessive gobs on moving parts (where applicable) makes for a more free feeling spinning reel...there are obviously some trade offs but the results are consistently there for me.

If its "gritty" outve the box, thats purefishing or perhaps the retailer you bought it froms problem. Now if its just a bit too much resistance, which I find most spinning reels have for my preference when I buy one..Theres an easier trick I always use without fully tearing it down, taking everything off the shaft, etc and degreasing. On alot of reels you can get the cover plate off the body and access the drive gear and most of the pinion without tearing it down. Take that off and with a VERY clean tooth pick remove some of the excessive grease in the teeth. Turn the handle a bit to where you can access things better as needed. Just be careful, dont use a qtip or something that will get things in the teeth...It makes a big difference without running a reel too dry or losing a clutch spring or something fooling with everything on the top of the shaft.

More versatile than you may think- depending on the specific rod's characteristics and your tastes. I have a 7' Med/Mod falcon that I comfortably use for basically any treble hook presentation that doesnt dramatically overshoot the weight rating, or offer too much resistance, like a larger squarebill. I love it for throwing 5/8 rattlin vibes, .05 -1.5 RC's, 200 Bandits, Sammies, Zell Pops/Ricos, etc

You should contact megabass. Equipping a 7” 2oz bait w/Hardware that fails that easily is flat unacceptable to me. Much less for a $60 bait.

Shimano has produced magnesium framed reels for inshore & surf fishing for decades. Folks love their Mg Stella's. Their well known tech said at one point he'd seen 2 MG reels w/corrosion issues in something like 4 years. Those who remember snook on here may recall he liked his Mg Floogers; & he fished them often. If the manufacturer is willing to stand behind the product and say its ok, it is (within reason). Not every mg reel is considered salt safe by their respective companies.

DONT rinse them...Wipe them down or at least be very, very careful. It's been a minute since I've had my trion apart; but I dont believe the drag is exactly sealed...Water with salt/sand can run right down the main shaft & deposit itself into the AR Clutch, frame bearing, and then pinion/Main gear in that order. You can also ruin the line roller bearing that way; getting salt/sand into it and also not allowing it to dry properly. Is it guaranteed to happen? No. But I've replaced enough AR Clutches and Frame bearings in Pure Fishing spinners to where I wouldn't do it..

No sir, the larger hooked models dont come through laydowns as well as the previous ones it seems. Though yes the aesthetic is a much lesser concern. Dont get me wrong, Id lose some on occasion w/the earlier models; but at a lesser rate than say a spinnerbait. The hooks are oriented upward and inline on a straight up horizontal retrieve yes; However often the bait is pivoting on a hinge & that larger gaps now much more exposed- the blade often goes one way, the hook point another. I’ve always fished them more erratically in modest cover with alot of success, ex. Pitching into a pocket pumping once and killing it, mildly yo-yo’ing, coming into contact w/something unforeseen and allowing slack fall like a spinnerbait, etc. Just kindve finessing it by feel. That said- looking online its kindve hard to tell looking at comparable models how theyre equipped. I think the best case is I may end up making some of my own this winter.

Looks good Blue- whats the weight of that model? Farmer, I hear ya; cant say I had issues with hook ups but the current hook definitely sticks everything better- fish and cover included- while also accommodating for the swimbaits that are alot of guys preference now vs the trailers that were more commonly utilized in 00’s when they became popular. The earlier version’s hook wasnt THAT small. I wish I had some of the older ones to compare, the difference may have been simply a more modest gap than anything; as from memory some of the thicker/taller plastics were borderline too much for them.

So I'd stocked up on Chatterbaits yrs back, (Pre Zman I suppose). After awhile I've ran through them, and picked up a few of the regular/originals and it seems like the hooks are now much larger? I'd read guys talk about them getting hung up recently, and had kinda scoffed as I'd sling the older models into a lay down w/little concern. They did pretty dang good for an exposed hook lure. However; The model currently produced it seems is much more well, snaggable in wood. The larger hook is also a bit less aesthetic IMO...The older models I could slide the smallest zoom chunk on w/a trimmed skirt & it made for a nice subtle, compact target that was aerodynamic and extremely precise... The gap between plastic and hook point is much greater now it seems. I'm guessing the larger hook is much more suitable to folks using swimbaits, but I dont care for it. I like target casting these baits into cover with small twin tail trailers more- and the 3 I got recently are no longer the right tool for the job. Anyone have any alternatives? Also not sure if theres any difference whatsoever to the newer line tie vs the old snap lock used on the Rad lures version (which I have seen fail) but I'm m curious if theres any change in action.

Sure hope not, don't think a red eye shad with those obnoxious winn grips will have that same shimmy on the fall.

Havent fished there in years. But for whatever its worth- the Bandit 200 cranks in the orange belly/brown back crawfish pattern always slayed for me there in the timber. One of the better guys that fished there back in the day swore by the bomber fat free fingerling, which is a bit deeper of a bait. Sorry no seasonal specifics to offer, but that mid depth range in a limited cover lake in late fall may be at least a higher percentage option given the unknowns of elsewhere.

Very cool, thanks for sharing. That W&M is begging to be fished at least one more time. It's almost sad in a way to realize alot of these modern conglomerate owned companies like Wright & McGill, Pflueger, Penn, Heddon, Shakespeare, etc were once these iconic american made brands that came from little towns all over the country.

Bluebasser gave you the best advice, for catfish (I'm not a carp guy) you're better off getting something with a clicker. The species & size matter also. Channel cats under 8-10lbs, any low pro baitcaster is ok- but loosening and then tightening the star drag everytime u get a fish is still kindve awkward. Cranking & setting a circle hook into ticked off blues & flat heads in current? Making long cast w/heavy lead? Not so much....You need a reel that'll hold a sufficient amount of thick line and a stiff frame that keeps everything in alignment when that fish knows its hooked. There are low profile baitcasters that'll pull off what you want- though you may make concessions in ability to cast lighter bass lures due to the heavier spools. The Daiwa Lexa (w/the clicker) would be an option. I believe theres a reel in the current revo line that has a clicker also. I have an older Revo NaCl w/the option that's served its purpose for casting plugs and fishing live bait for stripers- but that models discontinued.