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Just use the reel that balances best with the rod and try not to over think it. Line management is much more about the specific build of reel and the user's habits than anything. Ive went up and down on line diameters with different reels many times. When comparing standard "bass sized" spinning reels, never saw much difference in line management or casting. I used to have the idea I'd cast much father years ago using 12oz 6740 sized pfluegers, which are bigger and definetly heavier than most bass fisherman even use. Compared side by side with a 6730 with the same line, lure, and rod one day and found no real difference surprisingly. My wrists liked the change however. There are now larger reels that are much lighter, so if u have a decently stout 7' Med rod with a good sized 1st guide, go for it. If youre rod is lighter, perhaps shorter, or with a smaller 1st guide a quality 2000 sized will work great.

X2 on 5lb Power Pro...Its cheap, casts great, strong....zero complaints

The 2500 has 13.4 lbs of drag. Now the 2000 has 4+lbs, but can say as I own the previous gen feugo 2000 which is also listed at 4lbs, after fishing it really hard for a year on some Bull strong river LMB and a striper up to 8lbs it was a non issue. That number seems alarmingly low, but running through the guide train it takes a lot of pressure for that much weight to make it to reel. I get the concern but dont worry. The reels have amazing drags and handle torque well. The BGs huge main gear and rock solid frame are popular with guys that fish saltwater critters. Theres no flex in the frame or rotor like alot of spinners. Edit 10 4- Tight lines

For a spinning reel I recently picked up a Daiwa BG2500 and cant imagine needing any more out of a reel and they can be had for $80 if you shop around. I wondered if these reels were maybe getting a little more talk because people associate them with the OG Black Golds. I can say the buzz is legit. The new LT line up of Daiwas also look to be homeruns. Dont own any current production baitcasters.

VMC makes a treble hook kit with about 4 sizes of trebles and split rings that has about 30 hooks for under 8 dollars. Components are very good. Theyre pretty sharp, VERY strong, arent bad about flexing, and seem to be more rust resistant than alot of stock hooks. With some experimentation I upsize on a lot of cranks and then snip the bottom pointing barb off to avoid fouling and snagging. Google "VMC replacement kit" They make a few different types of types.

People saying they use a black sharpie to help the line blend in has always been dumb to me, and it also is a potentially negative cue to the fish youre about to drag a bait by while the scents fresh. Its a pretty darn obnoxious, unnatural smell. I just use spike it markers and match the color best I can. But its more for me than the fish.

Should I be out and break a leader off and not have replacement material, or the rare occasion I'm on foot and want to help ensure snagged lures arent lost. Alot easier to straighten and replace a hook with 40lb braid than lose a discontinued or expensive bait.

Never been much for the brighter braids as mentally I feel like at some point I'll need to tie direct vs the leader, but can say use of line and lure will help the color hold a great deal.

Haw River Tackle's bubble gum worm. Three different sizes and have all the colors you'd want. They call it a "HI-Float", and I'll even use it occasionally for topwater. Theyre a small 100% american company with really good people also, so I like supporting them.

A pack of the lunker citys goes a long way, and you can easily break a lead segment off to get the weight you want. Not as practical with a nail or screw. Also lead is heavier for its size than zinc, stainless, or whatever else. Tungsten is kindve a waste there due to cost. I did use to glue little true tungsten bullet weights inside some mann's hardnose plastics, smaller than lead and it helped tremendously in filamentous algae.

1. Actual leader material is better for the task. The qualities that make it terrible for handling and casting on a reel make it great for going through cover and a largemouth's sand paper mouth. I was sold the first time I used the modified albright years ago. Using 30lb PP and 12lb Yozuri Leader mtl I hooked into what ended up being my biggest bass, an 11.4lb Northern Strain that found & wrapped around a horizontal log under the boat we didnt know was there. Most helpless feeling in the world hearing the paino string tension sound of it sawing and a new knot with zero confidence, but she held. Main line works fine, but actual leader material IS better. 2. While flouro gets all the pub for abrasion resistance, there is Nylon or mono leader material also thats very abrasion resistant in its own right. Just use the proper diameter. The thing people miss out on with Flouro is if used as a leader, once you get snagged and pull hard enough on the line to break off, youve deformed and weakened the line. Nylon not so much typically. Flouros fine for leader, but you need to retie fairly often. Nylon also has better not strength, and isnt as hard as flouro, which I think helps with certain constricting knots. Unless youre doing a presentation that benifits from the way flouro handles in the water column, nylon based lines are better for me. 3. I agree completely for bass. 4. Generally start right above the reel but have ran longer without any issues.

6 year old daughter wanted a pink fishing set up from Santa . Went to Cabelas at lunch planning to grab a kid combo, they had an end cap with the pink pflueger presidents for $25. Bought two.

Their decent performers that hold up fine in terms of fishable use, but odds are they'll look terrible after a few years. If your the type that is rough on stuff or cares about aesthetics, something to consider. Ive had an SX, rocket and a few of the 1st gen orra SX's and the finish/paint rubs off in a stiff wind. In addition to things like little badges and knobs just falling off. Spinning reels have come along way in terms of value recently. Not to bring up a reel u didnt ask about- but it'd be hard to not get a Daiwa BG for a good deal less money IMO. The revos just dont justify the cost as they go up IMO.

Great time to catch a biggun on livebait.

Used 6lb on a spinning rig for a while and it performed well. Wouldnt go any higher than that diameter though for bass sized spinning reels.

Yozuri Hybrid in 12lb.

That doesnt necessarily mean anything, in fact if a reel has a particularly heavy rotor it'll keep turning when you do that due to the inertia. I like my spinning reels to have a more "free" feel to them, and often tear it open when I get it and remove excess grease from the two gears and oscillating shaft (not sure formal term), and regrease lightly. It bugs me for it to take a bit more effort to move the handle. Fair warning the trade off is the reel will be a bit noisier, but I service them pretty regularly.

Lol yeah I understand the concept of tabs guys and know the manufacturer states they work with 1/8oz and up, when I mentioned weightless in was reference to others mentioning using non top waters weightless.

Maybe this is one if those things Im just stubborn with and I guess I just need to give them more of a shot...Caught fish on the various craws /Lobster as Jig Trailers, they work and are fairly unique. But the rest if the line just hasnt been very impressive. The various creatures were so stiff you have to be moving them at a good clip to get action. The plastic is really lite weight, but for shallow cover Its almost too lite for weightless. Much rather use a GYBC flappin hog. Have some space monkeys, they look incredible but no fish. Tried the shad- when they were getting so much hype... mehh, I can throw a buzzbait anywhere it'll go more accurately, get a lot more bites with better hook ups, and it took some trickery to get it to keel right. The worm I tried had no action, actively tried it when they were slaying regular powerbait worms and nothing...they have almost no action unless they're moving or falling at a good clip. Maybe its mental as obviously people catch fish on em, but the rage rig deals with the big hook with lead on just mess with the profile of the bait to me. Again, Ive been wrong many times and may well be here, but I just dont get the hype by and large.

Yozuri Hybrid in appropriate diameters. Some will argue this- but KVD L+L helps tremendously the night before.

Absolutely fine. As long as youre rod and line are up to the task virtually any quality spinning reel will be completely fine...Not speaking to you directly OP, but I wish people would stop getting folks to think a 3 or 4lb bass, which is frankly a bit of a wimp as a fighter in the fish world is gonna flex the frame of a spinning reel. With the exception of larger, harder fighting fish; the rod does all the work.

Its a valid concern and a reason I always put some tension on the line system before final trimming. Not just pulling it tight with a short little 6" of tag in hand but tieing a lure on and gently leaning into it, and then cutting your tag. Playing around last winter I noticed a slight visual difference im the connecting knot vs sinching it up in my lap. Maybe the mono leader contracts or squishes a bit who knows. Im also very picky about not wanting much tag sticking out of the knot and used to really push it. Now I also tie a seperate knot to kind of finish the Alberto- unsure of the name but google may assist.

Another piece of advice, dont use the glue stick that comes with alot of the kits. Theyre junk in my experience. Use a good quality adhesive that can handle getting wet.

The cabelas rods are the better rod than BPS IMO. Ive just too many breakages with the BPS rods. 4 carbon lites in paticular. Not "defects", or abuse on my part per se, but the blanks just dont hold up as well as most others from hard fishing. The carbon lites in paticular. Also lost a couple pac bay guide inserts...I looked on ebay a while back and there was a dozen carbonlite/johhny morris's with broken blanks for sale. They feel darn good in store, and are good light-weight rods -but theyre brittle. I've become a fan of the cabelas rods. The palm swell reel seat on the spinning rods is popular with custom rod guys. Its the most comfortable way to hold a spinning rod Ive felt. Ive built an arsenal of 6 arachnid rods and will likely get the jerkbait rod this week. The tournaments are great rods. White rods are not my thing but they just fish "right". Lifetime warranty is also nice. I broke a rod by stupidly snagging it behind me when rearing back to throw a sammy with a different rod. My buddy convinced me to take it in, even though it was my fault 100%....Didnt feel right about it but figured Id be honest. If they told me to kick rocks I wouldnt be upset whatsoever. Walked in, no receipt- told them exactly what happened- they offered me a replacement up to original $200 price (paid 130)...Just took a straight swap, as they'd already been extremely kind. I really like Cabelas and hope they stick around regardless of how the merger shakes out.

Never been much on their spinnerbaits. Maybe just me but alot of their skirt/jig head combos on their spinnerbaits and chatterbaits just dont look quite...right. Even some generic solid color head and skirt combos offered by others just give me more visual confidence. Im sure its mostly in my head but confidence is everything. When I look at the way most of their heads taper and get smaller as they meet the skirt you cant help but think it doesnt look right and messes with the profile a bit. Quite a few of their colors the jig head color doesnt match the skirt that well. In addition as far as mass produced spinnerbaits, strike kings "perfect skirt", or war eagles version are better to me. Conversely their jigs offer decent components and some really nice "jig" color patterns at a very good price. The regular and baby boo jig, money jig, and my personal all time favorite the alton Jones "A" Jig (a better designed mop jig) all are very hard to beat for what they cost.