kschultz76

Your buddy was incorrect. Purchase a rep sample through an authorized dealer and you have a full warranty with Loomis.

Based on the reel seats alone I'd go GLX, and I say that as a fan of St Croix spinning sticks. Contact Gary at the Tackle Trap to see what pricing he can offer. Gary also has a wealth of experience and knowledge to offer. Likely he can help you dial the rod in. But if you're up to shelling out $400 on a rod checkout the new Megabass 2017 Destroyer Addermine. Looks like a sick finesse rod and it's next in my list. They just came out and Gary already has time on the water with them. But make sure you understand warranty/service plan differences between manufacturers if that enters into your decision.

My LTBs are all the previous version before they moved to the split reel seat. Totally agree they're awful now. But the current version of the Legend Extreme is the same exact terrible reel seats, the only thing that's different is the handle.

I have no experience with Phenix rods so unfortunately I can't help you with that comparison. But given their price points and reviews I've read I'd doubt the Phenix M1 rivals the Extreme for sensitivity.

I own several St Croixs, spinning and casting. Including one Triumph, one Avid, a couple LTBs, and a couple Legend Extremes. I'm gonna have to burst your bubble, the step up from the Avid or Avid X to an LTB isn't gonna knock your socks off. To find a really noticeable and discernible difference you'll need to step up to the Legend Elite or Extreme. LTB blanks are nice and great performers but I don't find the step up to them from the Avid amazing, so if the Avid X leaves you wanting the LTB may not either. Plus the reel seats on the current LTBs re hideous and loathsome. if you're worried about ultimate sensitivity in a finess setup then for sure spend most of your budget on the rod and look for a cheap but light spinning reel. Maybe a Pflueger Supreme. Im not sure it's light enough to get into the low weight finess you're looking to throw but a Megabass Orochi XX is hard to beat for sensitivity at its price point. The Medium Light Dropshot would probably be the one to look at.

Agree with smalljaw67. At and above the $200 price point and beyond the Avid line you're entering the world of rapidly diminishing returns in terms of sensitivity. But the rods will tend to feel more crisp, should be lighter, and offer other benefits. Thats why I suggest the Heliums, if you get a sale you're getting a lot of bang for your buck in terms of the blank in that price point. Plus a clean quality build and good components. In my hands they punch above their weight but others may not agree. But in terms of feel and sensitivity a lot is subjective especially over $150-200 price point. So temper your expectations. Also pay attention to grip style, materials, and reel seats used. Theyre things can affect your comfort and overall feel of the rod. It's something I'm personally very picky about. Good of luck and let us know what you choose.

Many good suggestions have been made. Certainly can't go wrong with a St Croix or a Loomis. However for your budget and the light line sensitivity you're looking for I'd look at the Kistler Helium 3 series in either ML or M power, and wait till they have a sale on their website. When they have a sale you can get the HE3 around $225 if they do 15% off. Then I'd spend the rest of my budget on whatever Shimano spinning reel I could find in the size and price on sale fit my budget. In order of preference I'd go stradic CI4+, Stradic FK, then Ultegra. In my personal use Shimanos line management in spinning reels has really cut down on line twist and tangles.

I wasn't sure what it was when I first ran across it. It was a pinkish red coating on a small section of the line. Found out what it was when I read Tackle Tours review of the Armilo line. I'm assuming what that review states is correct and it's meant to indicate the half way point on that filler spool.

I've only seen or heard of it on spools of Shooter Defier Armilo.

Sorry for coming off harsh. If it had zero flotation it's possible that it swamped that bad. I'm used to boats with sealed bulks. If you don't have sealed bulks in boat you should add float bags to take up air space and add flotation. It's fair to have your concern if you had that kind of bad experience. Not all sinks are going to have that issue. Stick to boats with 1-2 good sized sealed bulkheads. My Tsunami floats even with a cockpit full of water. Stick with what's comfortable for you personally and stick to larger boats, wider and longer, with at least 1 sealed bulk head. Here's a couple good videos. Just don't let go of your paddle like in the second one.

The two kayaks you're considering will certainly get you on the water. If they're all you can find in your budget choose the one that you find most comfortable and has the best storage setup. I agree with with so many others, get out to a place you can demo and sit in as many boats as you can. They all have their own character, and fit everyone differently. You won't know if it's really for you till you get it in the water. The deal quoted above above on the Predator is an excellent value. I'd really suggest you look around to see if you can find a close out, blemish, demo, or used deal on a quality boat from Old Town, Wilderness Systems, Native, or Jackson. I'm partial to Jackson and Wilderness Systems myself. The used kayak market is a great way to make your budget go farther and as long as some one put some effort into taking care of a used boat there's not much you can do to them to trash them. Some great boats oats to look at used are the Jackson Coosa HD, Jackson Cuda, Jackson Kilroy, Old Town Predators, and Wilderness Systems ATAKs. Good luck and and let us know what you end up with.

I'm sorry but I have to disagree, your statements about sinks are incorrect. Maybe not all but most sinks will float when swamped and most have sealed bulkheads with dry storage that help in this department. Most sinks can be righted in the water even when swamped and with proper technique re-entered and pumped out with a hand pump, or paddled to water shallow enough that you can stand to tip them up to empty them. As some one with lots of experience many types of kayaks I can tell you that frankly no one belongs on the water in any type of kayak unless they are prepared to handle a roll over and recovery. SOTs are harder to re enter then you might think in water over your head in soaking wet clothes. Everyone on the water in kayak should wear a PFD at all time in any water no exceptions. Anyone paddling a touring or white after boat with a tight cockpit should practice wet exits. Anyone paddling alone should practice wet exits, reentrys, and self rescue techniques whether you're in a sink or a sot. I know much of this from experience. I have practiced these things in various kayaks, and have had at least two situations in my life where having practiced these things got me and others back home safe after accidental roll overs in kayaks and canoes. All of that said purpose built fishing sot and sink kayaks are typically so wide with so much primary stability rolling them is highly unlikely in reality. You'd have to trying very hard to put most of them over all the way. But proper safety and caution is the first rule in all boating especially kayaks and canoes.

In Shimano stick to the 2500 size, anything bigger for bass fishing is a waste of line. Everything between the two sizes is identical, 3000 spool is just deeper to hold that little bit more line.

I'd still recommend the Orochi XX Spinnerbait Special or the Kistler KLX CRT 7' or 7'3" MH/MedFast. With the addition of chatterbaits the Spinnerbait Special will be great but I'd also throw in the Orochi XX Diablo Spec R. It's a bit faster tapered then the Spinnerbait but is just an excellence versatile performer, and the extra length is great. Of the four Orochi xX rods I own the Diablo is my favorite. Any of the rods will handle anything but real deep diving cranks over say 3/4-7/8 oz. and the Orochi's in my hands both have more power then the KLX. Also a St Croix Avid or Avid X 7'0" MH/Mod would work really well also, I got my Dad the Avid do I have the 7'2" Legend extreme MH/Mod with split cork grips and recoils. Rods I haven't tried but might fit your bill especially if you like softer rods for chatterbaits would be the new KLX Reel n Feel hybrid graphite/glass series, the Phoenix X series composite crank rods, the new Tatula Elite series rods, and of course Dobyns 705CB. I've read good reviews and feedback on all of these and considered them for future purchase.

I got a brand new in box Chronarch 51E for 170 including shipping from a reputable seller on eBay. This seller must have some NOS because every time one sells they post another one up. I just looked but they don't seem to have 50e's just 51e's.

Saw this on MLF and was amazed as well. Andy seems like just the nicest guy in the world, very modest, and clearly very good at what he does.

Orochi XX Flatside Special someone else posted would be a good one. I personally really like throwing squarebills on my Orochi XX Spinnerbait Special, but it's not ideal for the smallest cranks. I also really like my Kistler KLX Crank Rip Twitch series MH/MedFast 6'9" for small to med squarebills and cranks, it's a great general purpose crank rod, and you get it in 7 and 7'3". Lots is of good options to choose from.

Was looking at these on the web last night. The look sharp and like very good builds. The reel seat looks super comfortable. I just wish I liked foam handles on rods, if I did for the price I'd be trying one of these.

I'd imagine between those rods at that price range either will be fine. Though I have no experience with either. But look at Tackle Warehouses sale before you pull the trigger they have Powell Diesels marked down to $45 including the glass cranking rods. I've heard good things, but never used one myself. Might be a good value option for you if you're not opposed to glass.

Carbon composite materials are the way of the future in many industries. I have 3 Chronarch CI4s, a new Chronarch MGL, and a Straduc CI4+. Very happy with all of them and no performance or durability issues with any of them. The older ones have a few seasons on them. The material of the new one is a bit denser and very nice. I've read posts from folks fishing several CI4s hard for reds over several seasons with no issues and solid performance. If these reels were having durability issues we would be hearing about them by now. Buy with confidence if this is what you decide you want.

Love vey to hear what you think of that Zbone once you get some time on the water with it. Especially if you try any other presentations with it.

If you have questions about the MB call up Gary at the Tackle Trap, he will get you squared away. No experience with the Kistler Magnesiums. I am very fond of my Kistler KLX CRT 6'9" MH/ModFast for cranks. I could it working for Jerkbaits as well, and it comes in several lengths. Also fond of my Helium 3 MH/ExFast stick. The Helium also comes in light/medium heavy power fast action. I do sometimes use a faster action rod with jerkbaits but that's usually with smaller jerkbaits that I throw on spinning gear. In that case I'm using a St Croix M/XF. Don't let the taper rating on the Jerkbait Special fool you, while its Fast it's very crisp, and recovers fast, it's not a noodle.

Megabass Orochi XX Jerkbait Special

I'm with Fishballer on this. I have 3 Chronarch CI4s, a new Chronarch MGL, and a 13 Met. I like them all, they're all good reels at their price point and perform well. I do like the feel of the new Chronarch an bit more then the prior version. But some of the deals you get on the prior version right now are well worth it. Sure the Met is a bit better and I like it a bit more. But get what you can afford and are comfortable with then don't look back. Given the understanding of unspecified reduced line capacity I'm not sure a Met MGL from a JDM site would be worth the savings to me. Ive also learned that a good servicing and tuning really makes the Chronarch shine.