kickerfish1

A tiny bit better with the Core but yea not by much. Either reel should be fine with those applications. I really like my Alphas SV for topwater and jerkbaits. You may want to buy an Alphas SV and fish it side by side to your Core and see which one you prefer. Should you sell your Core and not like the Alphas you will have to find another Core to purchase and since they are discontinued you may have to wait a bit for one to surface in the kind of condition you want. If you like the Alphas SV and still want to sell the Core to recoup some money by all means go for it. I am to the point now where if I think I might be replacing a reel and wanting something newer/different... I always use the new reel first to see if I am going to like it and then sell the reel it is replacing.

Hmm... what is it that you want to use the reel for? Keep in mind with the Alphas SV 105 line capacity could be an issue. It is more of an 8-12# line kind of reel (mag finesse if you will). I use my Alphas SV 105 for 1/4 and 3/8 oz hardbaits like jerkbaits and poppers. The 100 is going to be better for baits 3/8 oz and up. Both are very light reels and great reels for that matter.

The Helios would be the only line of rods I would consider especially if I was wanting something for bottom contact apps.

Beautiful outfits you have there stranger!. The FJ Stradic is still one my favorite spinning reels.

So to be clear your current tackle room is becoming too small for your collection? Also it is located in somewhere other than the non air conditioned place you are thinking about moving it to? You could scale back on what you have. Probably unlikely, but I am not sure I would store things in that sort of temp. You may be ok with hard baits and rigging but depending upon the temp it may be too hot for plastics and possibly a few other things. Any chance you would have a basement with AC/Heat as an option that you could use. Maybe do a swithcharoo and move some things from the basement area to this other place without heat like say Christmas décor or other things you may not use very often.

I am also a fan or the LC pointers. More styles, shapes, weights, and sizes to play with and about 1/3 or so less and still plenty of "cool" colors. I have some of the RC Stx and some pointers (probably 4 or so of each) but I have probably close 3 or 4 dozen pointers. I have had great success on them they seem to hold up pretty well. One of the gripes on the 110 has been if fished around rock, the bill can break somewhat easily or at least be a bit more prone to breakage. Also some have had issues with the stock hooks and them straightening. This could be incorrect drag settings, too heavy of a line, and horsing the fish a bit more than needed...maybe even boat flipping. With that said, they are proven fish catchers and great for those cold water days especially pre spawn. As noted above buy one and compare it to your favorite current jerkbaits. Give it an hour and give your current favorite an hour and compare the results. Do this as much as you want and see if you feel it is worth adding more.

I hate banded. Have had both the black bands and the clear/carmel colored bands completely rot out. At this point the whole skirt sort of just falls apart. I would say about 90% of the jigs one can buy are banded vs wire tied/thread tied. I have never had a wired tied or thread tied jig come undone. I have had the occasional piece of skirt material pull out but it never was all pieces rather sort of thinned it out after a few days of hard use and lots of fish. Wire tied jigs, spinnerbaits, and chatterbaits are typically a bit more but well worth it.

Don't get me wrong it is still a fine rod but after going through similar instances in the past where I thought I would save a bit of money or cheap out I was left with something that I wasn't blown away with or satisfied for what I spent on it. Just thinking out loud here... you buy it for $300 and fish and aren't in love with it. Then it is time to sell it. Say you end up selling it for $275 shipped/insured and it costs you $30 to ship and ensure it. That is a loss of $55 to you. Say the rod you really want is $400. Now you have outed yourself $55 already from testing out a rod. That $55 may just cover the difference between what you could buy this rod for or what you may find a rep sample 2016 GLX for or a used NRX. Put a tough more money on it from your end and you have yourself a NRX.

As an FYI that particular GLX is probably the least popular generation. I personally would opt for another deal. As others have noted in this thread the newest GLX series can be had for a bit more as can the NRX series. I would be more tempted to spend another $50-100 and do it right the first time rather than find myself selling this rod and hunting for something different.

Once the braid has been cast one or two times and reeled back in under the tension of the lure I feel like that is all it really needs. Just a little help from the lake water and it is good to go.

Those walleye divers never caught me any walleye either. As a matter of fact it did catch me a 20# muskie up north many moons ago. They are great for trolling or casting.

I have a few titanium spinnerbaits and they seem to last longer as far not getting bent. Any other spinnerbaits seems to get bent when enough fish are caught on it.

He is looking for finesse casting rods as noted in his first post...

I would look at something else besides those two but if I had to pick between them the Phenix Recon series is a touch slower in a action and will cast lighter baits a bit easier. As noted above the 2 pieces JDM Majorcraft rods provide many options. Occasionally they come on various buy and sell forums and Ebay for well under $200. The attention to detail, styling, and coponents are 2nd to none at the price point.

I too, see no reason to use it on any line managing product on braid.

The casting rod is the 6'4 ML rated up to 1/2 oz baits - I really don't know much about the Major craft rod lines as there are my only rods of theirs. I purchased the casting rod for sort of a mag finesse stuff. Nothing that would require a super small spool but rather things like 1/4 oz poppers, small torpedos, spybaits, jerkbaits, and light plastic rigs like neds and small texas rigs. I have not tested the rods sensitivity much. I may have used this rod twice last year for maybe a few hours top. The spinning rod is the 6'4 UL rated 1/32 to 1/4 oz baits. It is a fun rod that I used on a few trout/panfish outings. I want to say the feel was really nice for a rod that is technically a 2 piece. Same can be said for the casting rod. What really separates them is the quality of the finish, components, and the very unique look from a styling perspective. I would not have these rods if a friend wasn't unloading them unused for 1/2 the retail price. Glad I have them and don't anticipate them leaving my possession any time soon.

I have a few outings on my UL Speedstyle and love it. Pictured on the bottom in the photo. Seems to be ideal for light baits for panfish and trout and is far from a noodle but not too fast that you cant get small jigs and spinners to load on a cast.

I know it is not what you want to hear but I would... 1. Purchase the right line. Something in the 12 # mono or fluorocarbon would be ideal 2. Purchase cranks that run deep to begin with. 3. Look up long-lining For me 30# fluorocarbon would cast like bridge cable. I have never seen the need to use anything heavier than 15# for bass fishing

Fat "things" will always love their McDonalds. No holding this fish back

I am not a huge fan of realistic paintjobs be our lakes here are not always the most clear which is where the realistic paint jobs would shine outside of catching anglers. More often then not I try to match color or paint to water clarity. The more clear the water the more natural the color where the more dirty or muddy the water the more bright or darker the color. For example I would not toss a Live target pattern crank in water with a few inches of clarity and I probably would not toss something bright chartreuse in water with 10 feet of clarity ... at least not to start with.

I don't own a yak but my buddy has two Hobbies. I got to fish out of one with the foot controlled mirage drive system a few weeks ago. I made the mistake of bringing some longer rods because of the frog bite going on. I had a 7 foot and 7'4 rod with me. I would say without a doubt 7 foot is about the max length. I would prefer something between 6 to 6'6 if I was to fish out of one on a regular basis.

It shows as an "excluded" brand but from my past dealings everything will generally get discounted once your transaction is processed with the exception of anything Megabass. Last time I ordered some baits I purchased a few RI and LC baits. They were not discounted when I went to the check out but when they processed the order they appeared to be at that time. When in doubt I would call to be certain and place the order over the phone. The HookUpTackle is usually the same way...

I am curious how you came to those two rods? For around the $200 range I would look at an ALX Zolo B or a Kistler KLX or a Hammer series rod or Shimano Zodias rod. TW has there 15% off sale going on right now so even if something is touch over $200 it should be close or under $200 with the sale depending upon which model rod you end up with. I personally would get the Loomis between the two as I think their rods fish better and look better than Ducketts but then again my only Loomis rods are IMX and above.

Never could get into wine. Guess I am just a fan of room temperate drinks.

The Gen 2 Revo Premier is the only Abu LP reel I ever liked.