primetime

I have more difficulty packing the right amount of tackle for a day of bank fishing, or kayak fishing than I do actually fishing. It has really taken me alot of discipline to cut back on all the tackle I have, and only bring a small Tackle Bag with 3 3600 size boxes, 1 for terminal tackle, 1 for hardbaits, one for jigs and spinnerbaits etc.. Then I always jam as many packs of soft baits I can fit, stuff my pockets, and its the soft baits that get me. I used to carry a ton of hooks, weights etc...Then I finally realized, you really do not lose that many hooks on a trip, or if you plan on using a frog, 3 frogs should be good, rarely do you lose more than 1 or 2...But picking 3 out of 100 is really tough... Less is better. If you stick to one bag, one back pack, you will have plenty and not need anything else in my opinion. Having a system helps, I need to get better at being organized, especially with terminal tackle. I think terminal tackle and soft baits are what you use from shore 90% of the time since you are often casting shorelines and trebles just cause too many expensive lures to get lost in trees.

I have been working on my deep cranking now for a few years, I try to do it on every trip when the sun comes up. Also still trying to figure out my electronics, but I have learned a ton from watching the Mikey Balzz Videos of him deep cranking the Orlando Lakes and Lake O, he used to only pitch, now he is landing double 9lb bass on video on same 6xd (No Joke) one on each treble...I believe it happened this winter but its a title of one of his videos, He goes as light as 8lb fluoro but I think 10 is his main size, he explains which lines he uses and why, every detail you could want to get that nobody would normally share...I just wish I had the GPS locations... He makes great videos to learn, he shows all his electronic readings, what he is seeing, then his exact reel, rod, crankbait, set up etc...He puts up crazy results in 20-30' of water long lining and he only uses 3 crankbaits. 10xd, 6xd, then the Rapala DT 16 long lined, he doesn't use rattles, but instead uses owner clips to the ring on the crankbait which I would have never done. His point is in deep water they are not seeing the details, He has been putting up videos of deep cranking for about 3 years, and he has pretty much figured it out and shares every tip. I highly suggest watching them. every video has multiple bass deep cranking from 8-11lbs some bigger. I don't do nearly as well as he does, do not have the spots he does, or the time on the water, but I realized a few things that has helped me. I keep it simple with lures. One bright color, one shad color, and the 6xd is my workhorse that I have the most confidence in. I dont use the swivel to split ring, just can't, but I will use a rattle version and silent and sometimes it matters. I have not figured out the 10xd, I would like to get more confidence in it cause they do produce giants. I believe the #1 key is understanding what you see on the electronics, feeling the shell etc...I only use the Bomber #8 in firetiger or citrus shad, 6xd, and the Berkley digger cause of the smaller profile. Kind of a plastic copy of the DT 16 but that is the bait he kills them on when the bite slows or lake is crowded etc...I guess with long lining you can get them deeper, so its just trial and error. He also does a good job of showing how to slay big bass on Hair Jigs in deep water, Ben Parket Magnum spoons and now he loves the Mag Ned rig with a Gambler O Beast, Football jig with a wacky rigged o Beast.... I don't know the guy, but he is super generous with his knowledge....He also has the luxury to fish every day so that helps. Deep cranking is hard, however, Electronics make it much more efficient. At least you know you are throwing at fish and not just reeling...

Thanks for the response. Really Helpful and makes me feel better about myself. I had similar experiences with circle hooks, drop shot hooks myself...I agree about a straight shank worm hook, I just seem to gravitate toward the EWG's lately cause I hate tying knots and prefer to just switch from worm, to swimbait etc...I usually can get away with a 4/0=5/0 EWG on casting gear anyday of any guage hook, but I also notice if I use an Owner Offset Straight shank worm hook, I feel I also do the best. I think you are onto something about EWG's. I often use hooks that look plenty big, but no need for a Superline hook on a weightless fluke unless throwing heavy line and rod... I was actually hooking them for a good 3-4 seconds and then I would watch them get off cause I could see it happen. I had light line, heavy guage hook for longer casts and they were not penetrating, afraid to swing hard on light spinning rod. The right rod, action, braid vs. Mono vs. FLuoro all kind of mattters. I almost lost my mind a few weeks ago catching shiners (Trying to catch shiners) cause I had braid to 8lb fluoro to a nymph. I was getting them out of the water and everyone would drop off...I went back next day with my ultralight, 2lb test mono leader, same nymph with whippy rod, and landed almost every shiner.... Not being able to catch shiners will really make you feel impotent when you tell your friend at work how good at fishing you are....And you never get started...I wish I had it on video....

Pretty sure my issue was due to laziness. I only had 1 spinning rod with me, Medium light, 10lb braid, 8lb fluoro leader, and I wanted to bomb long casts with a 5" Rage Cut'r worm, and I used a Heavy guage magna lock ewg in 3/0, when I should have just re-tied and put on a 4/0 or 5/0 thinner guage hook for easier sets. I like to swing hard with plastic hook sets, I was thinking I could just lean back with all the distance, probably should of had some mono for stretch maybe...One reason why I need to carry an extra spinnning rod on my Kayak. I bring 3 casting rods, 1 spinning, going to change up to a Med Heavy and Med Light spinning so I can go heavy on a spinning rod since when Kayak Fishing I notice I like a spinning rod more than I normally would. Good answers..I would have normally expected to hook into 9/10 and at least get them all close, however in reality, I think 75% is pretty good. I wish I could say a few were just small males moving the bait, but they were legit 12-15" fish. I had to stay back cause I could see them cruising and needed light line to reach them, probably should of just added a 1/16 oz bullet weight or add a little weight to the lighter hook. Its funny, I only expect to hook into 7/10 fish on a floating Jerkbait with 3 treble hooks, figure one will be a pickeral, 2-3 will just slap at it, and in reality, its probably 50% on alot of days. I would take 50% on a hollow body frog anyday and be happy. Maybe its me, but I have only had a few days where you hooked more than say 60% on a hollow frog and thats when they choke it and cover is light...

Im curious......What percentage of quality strikes on a simple weightless worm....Do you expect to land before you get frustrated? I feel like I missed almost half my strikes yesterday, maybe more, I started to get really annoyed as I feel like I usually only miss a handful and usually I know why I missed them..... I think I know what my issue was, but I am actually curious to hear the responses. The Strikes where you feel the weight and line is moving, "Slam Dunks" I guess I am asking....

Order extra "Lunker Lotion" from the site...I love putting that stuff in all my older plastics, Yes, those worms are money. Awesome colors and it is a great worm with the shape. It comes through weeds awesome. I believe alot of people fish that Producto worm, but for some reason they are never on shelves anymore. They do pour a ton of that lotion in the bags which is probably why the ones I have from a decade ago are still brand new.

Put a wacky rig worm on back of a jig.....I hear it works...... Sometimes just changing the weight of a jig can make all the difference in the world, or the size etc... But you make a valid point. Before the Ned rig, it was the slider rig by Brewer only it didn't stand upright. Only difference imo between a Ned rig and a Light Shaky Head is an open hook. Both stand upright...Most new stuff is just a spin off of a popular technique. The Ned rig was originally finesse...Now the "Mag" Ned Rig is actually something that is catching on. If a small worm works on a jig head upright, then why not a big worm??? Looks different that the thousands of Carolina rigs and football jigs in deep water.. I think that is the point, I truly believe Bass get used to seeing the same stuff over and over and learn. Maybe its not true, but in fishing, if you believe it, then it is probably true for you. Now you can dropshot and Powershot in the same day on both spinning and casting gear...with hooks from the same company.....But a powershot does give fish a new look to all the 1.5 oz beavers flying past them.... A new look does work at times, especially in used water. I fish a few ponds where I live everyday while walking my dog. If I throw a Stick worm or Fluke, I only get small bites. Usually, If I rig up a Craw or Grub, big or small bait, I will get better fish so I truly believe they get used to seeing the same stuff. Everytime I see someone fishing the ponds, They all use a Senko or rattle trap...Bigger fish do learn. I second the split shot or light C-rig in shallow water as my favorite "Finesse" rig and technique for getting as many strikes as possible. I don't think many people do that anymore, you can fish it like a crankbait which is nice if in a hurry.

If you don't have weeds you can cast and swim a football jig, Just pay attention to how stiff the weedguards are as I find if swimming a jig I like a thinner weed guard. If not a football jig, an Arkie Jig is a good change of pace for what it sounds like you fish. Siebert Jigs are worth the money if on a budget like myself. You get what you pay for in terms of Jig quality. You can load up for for $50, Overall Value will save you money due to the quality. The hooks are money, Plus I trust they are balanced right, as I am not a jig expert so I like to buy them from someone who is. I also like my weedguards the way I like them and he sends them long for you to adjust. If in a pinch, and need a good all around jig that is decent quality and can be fished in any way...The Terminator Jigs at Dicks for $4...They are actually decent for casting, swimming, etc...VMC hooks are decent. Not trying to Sell Siebert, I am sure other guys make good jigs as well, but I would rather have half dozen quality jigs, then a dozen decent jigs. I have ordered swim jigs online from known brands that are really just flipping jigs with a swim jig line tie and name...

I tried the bigger swimbait thing for a bit here in Florida and it wasn't for me as I guess I lack the patience and never noticed catches of much bigger fish personally, just less strikes and less confidence especially with heavy line and it just seemed like other baits would get the job done for me better. For me, 6" is as big as I go and that is for Soft swimbaits, 6" Hollow belly I consider big...I consider the Gambler Big EZ a big swimbait, I tried the new 8" Gambler swimbaits and just felt they were too big and heavy and hard go set the hook etc. I do use the Spro BBZ in mid size, I think they are 4-5". I use it as a wake bait and like it, The savage gear and River 2 Sea S wavers that I have used are not all that big, but I simply prefer a 4-5" bait and kind of keeps the action going and big fish will hit it. Hope that makes sense. I do use 7" Senkos and 12" worms without an issue so I guess it is all in the eye of the beholder. The regular Zara Spook and Cordell Red Fin are big baits so I guess it just depends on results. 8" Swimbait I consider big for some reason even though I know it really isnt in reality. 6" feels more natural to me.

The Mister Twister Sluggo's are old at least the ones I have, I think they only made them for a few years a long time ago unless you mean the saltwater ones by Exude which are soft from the ones I have used. The Mister Twister are more rigid than others but that also gives them more of a darting action, its a different look than a fluke, kind of a copy of the sluggo which is kind of stiff. Most flukes are good, Zoom really good, then the Strike King Caffiene Shad is my favorite but really soft and kind of like a GYB senko in terms of durability. Although mine are mostly seconds so I think they may have extra salt, but they work really good and cast a mile cause of all the weight...I think the ones in bags are the same though. Mr. Twister Slugs will work....I throw the 4" Tri Alive ones in Firetiger every once in a while, I still have a bunch I picked up years ago when they were prototypes.

It says something when you can find Culprit ribbon tail worms at every Walmart, Kmart, Dicks, small tackle shop.....Yet they barely do any marketing, can't think of a pro that is paid by them but I am sure they have a few guys.... Even Sports authority back in the day always had culprit worms...Only other bait you will always find on a shelf in every tackle shop is a GYB senko for most part in soft baits and then it is kind of geographic....Walmart is not stocking Z-Man, Gambler etc. which are the "Hot"Brands These days...Yet they always have a good selection of 5" and 7.5" culprit worms....For good reason....They work as well as any soft plastic today imo....always have, I switched to Power worms when they first came out for a few years, but not never pick up the power worm. I am surprised Culprit doesn't advertise more, sponser better guys...The Incredicraw/Incredislim is a fantastic pitching bait as a change up to what everyone else throws....Then the trailers they make are actually really good as well but nobody uses them...

One of my best days this year was fishing behind 2 guys who were throwing either a burner worm from Gambler or Zoom Speed worm, other guy looked to be throwing a Gambler 5" EZ swimmer on top..That's usually a great way to cover water in Florida over weeds etc... I started swimming a 6" BPS curly tail black blue tail worm that was on my light spinning rod, ended up getting bit what felt like every cast. The curly tail worm gives off a subtle swimming action on top compared to all the buzz style plastics and paddle tails, also falls differently which gets alot of strikes. I find that when creating commotion on top, if you kill a plastic once or twice, you often get bit for fish that follow or thinking about striking. Was anyone swimming curly tail worms back in the day before Speed worms? I used to swim Culprits over lily pad fields just for fun since we didn't have braid and could never land them...Is that a new technique as in last 10 years?

Fish the 3 baits you have the most confidence in.....Then adjust depth as needed with any of them. I often make the mistake of trying too many options, but have gotten better at just sticking with what I have confidence in and know have always caught fish for me in most conditions. Plastics Jigs Lipless cranks & jerkbaits

I believe the Old Gator Tailed worms are now the Zoom G-Tails....I still use the 8" Producto High Floating straight flipping worms in solid purple or grape....They still sell them in Florida since the OEM is in Sanford Florida near Orlando They make baits for other companies, but they have a good line up of baits...The Buzz Tail shad is a good alternative to the speed worm, bigger subwoofer type bait....I think they Make Venom and a few other companies soft baits. Producto Tournament 8" worms are basically a Magnum Trick worm with a flat tail.... Culprit still makes the best Ribbon tail worms, Fat Max probably best flipping style swimming worm, and a 4-6" culry tail worm catches fish anywhere anytime.... The Old is still really the new..Riverside is now Yum...on and on....Just new colors, new twists, but at the end of the day, The Chatterbait is really the only huge breakthrough since the Senko, and before then the SLuggo was pretty good. Just don't use them now, they won't work...Only Flukes work.... Anyone remember the Bass Pro Gator Tails with the rattle pocket in the tail....I remember ordering them as a kid and still remember the one bass I caught on them while buzzing it on top to make another cast..I wish I knew about Speed wormin back then... If a Mann's Jelly Worm and 6" Tomato core culprit were good enough to win a classic in the past 2 decades..Then they will work just as good. Its not always the bait, but who is throwing it and where. Pretty much all plastic worms will work if you think about it.

The swivel is a good way to hold plastics, I think I learned that from Roland Martins book years ago....I think he uses 2 for some reason, I am sure there are articles about it and videos. One good option to avoid that issue cause it will happen from time to time regardless of what you do from my experiences....Twist lock hooks help make rigging easier and also hold the bait on well. Owner sells a good one, or you can just buy hitchikers and make your own, but Berkley has some they sell at Dicks and local shops that are cheaper and maybe $4 for 5 hooks. I like the Fusion hooks. They are strong and sharp but owner Centering pins are probably the best hooks overall...Also makes changing baits easier, you can fit just about everything on a 4/0 hook. Crazy glue is also not a bad option. I find the barbs on hooks sometimes tear the plastic up too much. Just my take. Never tried parasite clips but it looks like a good idea.

In my opinion, the most important part of clear water fishing is lighter line, as light as possible, 6lb test fluorocarbon as a leader or main line, or light mono would make any lure you choose likely get bit more. I would personally throw a light C-rig, split shot rig, texas rig with a bait to cover water. If not alot of weeds and snags, try throwing a 3" shad body like the Keitech Shiner, Sassy shad style baits or small Skinny dipper on an open jighead so you can probe different depths and find fish quick. All suggestions should work if you find the fish. Craw style baits would likely still work, 3-4" grub, ned rig, fluke...any soft bait should work. If bottom is sand, a football jig is another good option with any trailer you like. A wacky rig worm is actually a good choice that works and I am not sure why. As a jig trailer...Especially on a swing jig. Just started doing this on jigs, on smaller jigs I use a 4" stick worm and I am starting to notice I do better on a stiffer worm for some reason, maybe cause how it snaps back after each pull or hop.

I have a bunch of Siebert Swim Jigs, bullet jigs, and the swim jig I purchased a few years ago...They are as good as they get, awesome Hook, wire tied trailers and he can do colors to match any forage you want. I had the owner make me a mix of colors and put together a batch for stained water, and he killed it....Prices are great and I only like Jigs that have top quality hooks. Pound for pound hard to beat his prices for custom jigs.

Whenever I want to add bulk to a jig without adding a huge 5" craw etc....I break out the Spider grub and trim the upper part of the skirt for added flare. If you trim the top portion of the skirt, it will look bigger when its sitting or when you hop it etc...There are a ton of good options, but a 4" Spider grub gives you bulk, extra flare with the plastic skirt, and you can simply bite a piece off if you need it shorter...... Spider Grubs give you bulk plus twin tails to mimic either a craw or baitfish....You can rig it sideways etc.. One of my favorite color combinations is black blue with a green pumpkin red or black red spider grub..Not sure why it works so well, but it just does. https://www.google.com/search?biw=1366&bih=641&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=mG6FXNKQKZKs_QbEmbTwAw&q=spider+grub+trailer+&oq=spider+grub+trailer+&gs_l=img.3...36622.36622..36911...0.0..0.71.71.1......0....1..gws-wiz-img.okj09ndN1Ok#imgrc=fRaFyQnWGSnpIM:

I tie everything direct and use an improved clinch knot most of the time. Its quick, reliable and I agree, less hardware is just more natural..I will use speed clips or Fast Tach clips for changing out Cranks and Hardbaits that do not have a split ring, or on Deeper cranks, I actually will tie a clip to the ring for extra noise since they can barely see the bait in stained water anyway.....I used to hate clips and never used them until I watched guys catch plenty of bass on hardbaits and it eliminates any issues with split rings and line getting frayed...In clear water I would still tie direct, but I rarely see more than a few feet of visibility at most. Small swivels are not a bad thing, Actually like them cause I trust the knot better than line to line if just throwing a weightless fluke etc..Plus eliminates line twist. You can use them, especially if you don't trust your braid to leader knot etc...I tend to have that knot fail at times for not checking it often enough and if it frays it sucks to lose a fish and see the leader broke, so I am not anti swivel...I think they help at times, adds a bit of flash.

I fish alot of places like that when I have time to kill some days, and one of the techniques I have been using and having success with is simply throwing a green pumpkin 4" grub on a 3/16 head, 6-8lb test especially if the water is clear. I would imagine that the bass are lacking in forage, but this time of year, their should be alot of small baitfish in the pond, if bluegill from last year they are a few inches.....I always figure everyone who is bass fishing is throwing the most popular baits, and bass do get conditioned to the same look. If bass will not hit a small grub on a jighead, either hopped on bottom, swim it at various depths, but I usually find if you just parallel the break lines of the first drop off, try to get away from the crowds, you can often catch fish. I believe lighter line is actually the key, same with smaller baits that are less intrusive. Very few people in lakes with Largemouth will break out a curly tail grub in 3-4 inches...You can rig it on a Mushroom head, darter head, ballhead, light texas rig....It will match all forage that could potentially be in the pond.. Another option is to break out the light action spinning rod, and downsize to the tiny trap size, 2" rapala, bitsy tubes, crappie baits. If you can't get bit in half hour, move to a different pond. Or go at night. I prefer night fishing on most lakes that get pressure. I get bigger fish at night and can often catch them on topwater which makes it that much better. Hope that helps. I pond hop often and have become much more finesse, lighter line since Pond Bass seem to be in tune with forage, so big baits often get passed up. 4-6 feet is crystal clear water to me, so I would downsize and trust your drag.....

I love a Brown one....Its a jig that you can pitch, flip, swim, hop....Just like any jig, just adjust the weedguard to how you like it and make sure it has a good hook. Brown Arkie Jig 1/2 oz is one of my go to jigs.

Could be one of the most versatile baits...I love it flat with a light weight and fish it like a frog, pitch it, swim it, can't fish it wrong. Great grub, Swimbait, Trailer, Pitching bait, topwater.....Flat or sideways...Great little bait when Bass are feeding on bluegills all year, especially post Spawn when bluegills are all grouped together. I like to just put it on a light bullet weight or jig head and cast it out and let the fish tell me what they want. Truly one of the best baits I have found in all my years of fishing. It produces fantastic vibration in stained water and smaller profile is fantastic...It really does make a good alternative to a Toad as a topwater as well...You will hook more fish as well..Plus when you kill it, it has better action then the toads...Just my take but the Menace is arguably the best strike king soft bait....Although the Cut'r worm is pretty good as well.

Sign me up. Been thinking about a bigger Menace for a long time...I love that bait, ITs a killer grub, trailer, flipping bait, topwater.....Top 5 softbait imo and one I never leave home without.

I would say from shore terminal tackle is the most important box, keep it organized, and in reality, you can bring some Jigs and softbaits, spinnerbaits, few topwaters and lipless cranks and be good. I feel I can pretty much always get bit on some type of softbait If I have the right weights, leader, and hooks. You can bring a Senko, Fluke, swimbait, grub, finesse worm and be good all day in reality....Add in some buzzing or swimming plastics for topwater and you are good. Usually weeds are an issue from shore, but hard to beat lipless cranks for covering water and locating active fish. Also don't discount the dreaded carolina Rig which gets a bad rap...Its boring when you are not catching fish like throwing anything else and not catching, but I find that a lighter 1/8-1/4 c-rig, mojo rig, split shot rig in shallow water kills fish in any scenario....You can actually fish it fast or steady, just tie a fluke behind a light weight and sweep it or reel it and it darts all over the place, feel any structure or rocks etc...Kill it and you get bit.... I feel like in new water, hitting ponds for a day, I do best swimming a speed worm on top along shoreline, or throwing a split shot soft bait on first breakline.....My point is plastics and terminal tackle are key.

I would say a plastic worm or a grub will catch fish anywhere and can be fished in any condition. Really any softbait can be all purpose...I guess maybe the Senko could be perfect for just about anywhere? I would never go fishing without a stick worm....