bass1980

So what would I need to make it work? I mean easiest path.

So if I buy this lews CF handle and use it on my LH Daiwa could I use the stock Daiwa handle nut? I was actually looking for a longer CF handle for my T3. Glad I saw this post.

Or just bring out a 50 series Curado I.....

The Chronarch ci4+ won't really effect the sales of the chronarch E because of price difference and even though they share the same Chronarch name the E is really a White Curado. Once the Curado I fills up stores with no waiting then will the E series be hurting. A Curado I with more features, so far being a superior reel from limited reviews, and $20 cheaper than an E, then we may see the elimination of the E and hopefully clearance sales.

I had two, a 6:1 and a 7:1. Needed money to buy another reel so I sold one. Now with a few trips of using the ci4+ and after flushing the bearings because it felt so stiff before I am now regretting selling my other ci4+. The braking system is very nice! I have small hands and I always have said the 50 series feel as good as it gets for me but this 100 ci4+ Palms maybe even better to me, maybe. The reel is just so nice looking too which is a huge bonus for me. If there wasn't so many people breaking their red Cumuras it would look so nice together with the red accent on the ci4+. This reel almost feels like aluminum, unlike my Zion T3.

I don't see the need to spin them by machine. It seems like there is many ways to clean bearings and everyone has their methods. I'll just stick to what I have access to since it's at work. I can't bring I'm other chemicals and tools. We have plenty of acetone and a lot of ultra sonic cleaners. So that's what I'll use.

Well it has to be the bearings. These are basically brand new reels. I flushed 3 reels. I wanted to do this because of reading that flushing stock bearings are needed rather than upgrading to after markets. The reels I have should have nice quality bearings. Chronarch ci4+, Daiwa T3 1016, Chronarch 51e. I just wanted to see how much nicer it makes it flushing them. Although I do believe you guys saying upgrades bearings are not needed unless they go bad I have gotten hedgehog bearings for another T3 and a Steez. Which I plan to get a SV spool so I'm on the bandwagon of less resistance on light lures.

When I said its loud I meant after I stalled them dry in my reel and turn the handle. It's not very loud but you can hear some rattles or something like that. When I put line on and cast and retrieve I don't hear anything anymore. Handle spins more freely now too. What is the purpose to spinning the bearings after cleaning? I thought when people was talking about that it was to test if the bearings spun freely and quietly.

Wow without grease even stock bearings are loud! Just going to mess around with them dry and get a few cast in my back yard. Then later I'll add oil.

No I just blew them dry with an air hose. I spun them by finger using a Qtip like thing to hold the inner part of the bearing.

Thanks for the reply. Well I basically soaked the spool and side plate bearing for 7 hours while I was at work in acetone. Maybe it was too long but I don't think it would hurt since there is no plastic. I ultra sonic cleaned them for only 25 minutes because I didn't have enough time at work since I was so busy. I blew them dry with an air hose. I used a Qtip like thing we had and spun them. They spun for an average of 25 seconds with the best being at 45 seconds. One of them was only at 7 seconds and it felt rough. I'm not sure if these bearings are from my Ch51e or my T3 side plate bearing. I will add oil and see what happens otherwise I can clean them again. BTW I will only put the hedgehogs in my Steez and T3 which I am using to cast lighter lures. I guess that is the reason I wanted to try the hedgehogs. The 51e and ci4+ will just get flushed bearings with Alchemy oil.

Yesterday I US cleaned them for 4 minutes and I felt it didn't do enough as the bearings only felt a little smoother. BTW I'm flushing basically brand new bearings from a Chronarch Ci4+,and Daiwa T3. I just want to see how better they are flushing stock bearings feel. The Ci4+ seems heavily packed and my brand new reel seems a bit stiff. I already got hedgehogs but I wanted to experiment stock ones. So I won't be getting much dirt out but getting grease out. Will reoil with Alchemy oil.

Is it necessary to take the shields off when flushing them in acetone and using an ultra sonic? What's the best method to take shields off? How long do you US clean them for with shields on and without? I will soak in acetone for 8 hours, doing it at work. And will US clean them for 1 hour. Anyone has any input let me know.

Rapala rippin rap gold chrome!!! I love this lipless.

Sorry I can't help you but I must say one of my combo that I keep wishing I had was a GLX cranking rod paired with a Curado E5. That emerald green on green would just look fantastic when the sun hits it. Good luck on your decision.

I'm afraid I am going on the same path as you Ghoti. Last year I bought 6 new reels, used them less than 3 months, some only a few outings. I've sold them all since I want better reels, not that mine last year was bad either. Since winter I have bought 2 Daiwa T3 1016, Daiwa Steez, and 2 Chronarch Ci4+. What's worse now is I got a chance to play with a buddies Megabass reel and I already see a Zonda 68 hedgehog and T3 FX in my near future. JDM finesse will be the end of my marriage.

To the OP, never buy full retail if you can find better deals. At $130 you can have a better lews BB1 and Daiwa Tatula to name a few. Ron at Valley Tackle, which is a sponsor on here, will get you a deal within your $130 budget. The MG and S is nice but they aren't at the level of the Tatula and BB1. Feel free to PM me if you have more questions.

Using iboats I got 2 results back only Bass boat 1998-2005 $7000-$18000 18-21 ft All manufactures. I need to quit comparing looking for used boats the same as used cars since the availability is so much more in automobiles.

Yes even though it's not local I normally ask for additional pictures and get to the point that I'm willing to travel far and don't want any games. When I get there of course I'll take it for a test drive and take it to a shop to do a check up. Not with a boat but I've traveled far for a car and end up not buying it. Losing money on gas but oh well that's the price to pay for looking for the right boat at the right price. Willing to drive 8-10 hours one way I think.

I have two price range. One is $8000-$12000 and hoping to do a 3 year loan and upgrade after that. Wish list is 1997-1999 skeeter zx202, 2000' year Ranger but will be tough to find one this low. The other is $15000-$18000 and do a 5 year loan and upgrade after that. Wish list in order would be Ranger 518vx, Skeeter ZX2xx, Stratos, or Triton. 200hp min. I'm in the process of selling my house and will store it outside at my sisters back yard. Will get another house in 2 years with a 3 car garage as 1st on my have to have list From all my research my price range is where many engine goes kaboom. I hope not.

I've tried boat trader, boats.com, I boats, and a few others but they don't seem to have a lot of boats listed vs craigslist. Craigslist however is hard to find with so any cities. I've tries seachtempest which searches all of CL but it's not the easiest to navigate. Any recommendation where to find used boats? I'm willing to travel for the right boat.

Just my opinion but I don't think the Tatula will out cast the 50 series even with the Twing on the lighter wiggle warts and I've bad a T3B and a T3 right now. I used a Tatula from a friend for an outing and it bombs 1/2oz or heavier but when I went down to 3/8 KVD 1.5 it was good but not as good as my 51e. I don't remember what wiggle warts weigh but they seem to be lighter than 3/8. Also on a Smallie setup the usual rod is a medium action so the 50 series will balance just fine. It's only when you reach a rod that's 7'3 MH or bigger you can really tell the 50 doesn't balance well. I paired my 51 with a 7'1 M *** and it balances fine. The BB1 pro is 6.5 oz so it's lighter than the 7.1oz 50 series.

My only one knock I have with the 51e or all Shimano is the anti reverse paw. It makes a clicking noise that for some reason bothers me. However I removed mine and it's really easy to so. So I would recommend doing that. Every now and then you can find brand new 50 series for $160ish. Btw the BB1 pro is lighter but the small profile of the 50 series is just so sweet.

Of the three for light Smallie lures like wiggle warts or 1/4 oz range go with the 51e. I have a 51e and that was my Smallie reel until recently when I switched to a T3 1016. The 51e is an excellent caster for 1/4 oz range. Noticibly better than my 201e. Shimanos centrifugal brakes are the easiest to work with. Usually set to 2 brakes and you're done. Only need to adjust spool tension. If you're an expert with thumbing you can try 1 brake. You rarely need to open the cover up to switch brakes unless you are switching lures that are far apart from each other in weights. I have not had a chance to use the Tat R or Bb1 pro. I have used a standard Tatula. I cannot see how those two reels can cast light lures better than the 51e. My current Smallie reel the T3 cast a bit better than my 51e with 1/4oz but it is harder to dial down vs shimanos centrifugal braking.

As long as they run true I cannot see why they won't work. Good hooks, good selection of colors, competitive pricing, and a wide selection to cover most of fishing depths and style except deep deep cranking. I like it that the finish won't seem to deteriorate like those KVDs but I haven't really fished the yamas yet to really know. I've just thrown it a few times in the few open water I can find.