Hanover_Yakker

Welcome aboard!

No cooperation from Mr. Brown Suit (aka Cobia to the un-initiated) but we had fun. Went out to Blue Fish Rock outside of Grandview in Hampton, VA and set out our chum slick north of the tips and dropped out live croakers on FF rigs. I filled my time waiting by chasing anything that would bite. Ended up with over 40 croaker (ranging from 5" - 12"), a couple small spot and several 10-12" roundheads. As you will see, the cI4 and AVID I purchased from two BR members got quite a workout. The first storm passed east of us and nailed the Eastern Shore. The second one grazed us to the south and soaked us to the core, but the last one hit us dead on with no warning from the National Weather Service and marine radar. Enjoy the video!

Its all part of fishing...... Oh yeah. For the uneducated, its no longer referred to as a skunk. Its called "scouting".....

Welcome aboard.

I like the idea for some of the small one-person skiffs people use in the saltwater or jon boats but even in my Pro Angler, the additional effort to remove and install the device before and after every trip plus the additional weight factor would negate any operational benefits for me. I'll stick with my 6' and 8' YakAttack Park-n-poles like flyfisher said. That way I can pole about and get a better anchoring position relative to the current when I need to use it.

Welcome to the addiction. Congrats on the new PB.

This is how I was always taught to make the nylon rope lure for gar.... 1. Cut a piece of 3/4" nylon rope 12-24" long but you can use shorter lengths for smaller presentations. 2. If the rope is braided, undo the braids then comb it out using a wire brush (just think Santa Claus' beard) 3. Run the frayed rope through a barrel swivel and tie and overhand knot. You should end up with about 6" of rope on either side. Super glue the knot 4. You can add scent if you like or even inline spinner components and beads. Add a slip sinker if you want to fish it sub-surface. The trick to using a frayed-rope lure is to let the gar take it 2 or 3 feet before you try to pull it in. That way the gar has plenty of opportunity to let the nylon get tangled in its teeth. Not sure if this helps or not.

I'll keep it short and sweet...... 1. Your budget is not very realistic given that you will need other things. 2. That price is going to limit the quality and reliability long term of certain brands 3. Seat time seat time seat time 4. You'll most likely find out that the money you saved initially in going the cheap route could have been saved a little longer and used towards a better kayak With that said, try these threads that may have more content regarding this topic area..... http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/121104-need-kayak-advice/ http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/120956-bass-fishing-on-a-kayak/ http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/119680-kayak-question/ http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/119567-basics-of-kayak-buying/ http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/119235-looking-to-buy-my-first-kayakplease-help-bps-d10t-sot-kayak-pelican-icon-100x-etc/ http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/117084-which-kayak/ http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/118110-question-about-mini-x-kayak/ http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/115057-bps-ascend-d10t-kayak-vs-malibu-mini-x-kayak/ http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/117387-need-a-light-kayak/ http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/114350-looking-to-buy-a-kayak/ http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/114014-buying-a-kayak-this-spring/ http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/110213-first-kayak-purchase-please-help/ http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/110674-need-help-deciding-on-canoe-or-kayak/ http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/110096-kayak-recommendations/

Lastly - invest in a plug knocker or make one. Anyone who fishes moving baits around cover can tell you how invaluable this little accessory can be. May not seem like a big deal when tossing about $2 Wallie World Cotton Cordell or Rebel clearance CBs, but tie on a Lucky Craft, Koppers Live Target, some of the JDM cranks, etc. and you could have mild cardiac palpatations when one becomes snagged and the hooks don't budge or bend.......

If you are using the standard sized Ribbits, I use a 4/0 Mustad UltraPoint or Zoom Horny Toad hook unweighted. If you are going to use the Bull Ribbits, you will need to step up to the 5/0 size. Some people prefer EWG hooks, but I do just fine with the Mustad and Zoom ones. One rigging tip though on the Ribbits - they do tend to flip wrong side up or belly up on the cast, so you can do a couple things here. One, on the cast, start your retrieve before the frog hits. Two, keep your rod tip up during the retrieve. Three, if the belly up still occurs, a little twitch and lowering of the rod will sometimes right the frog. Lastly, and possibly the best tip in my opinion, is to rig the frog with a slight bow in the back not straight like a tex-posed fluke or worm. The arch in the back helps the Ribbit right itself during the retrieve. Oh, and per your original question, I have tried the Stanley weighted frog hooks and all they did was collect every piece of debris and algae/grass floating in the water. I use them now primarily with flukes, large power worms or stick baits for a weighted presentation during deep drop casts and jigging. Last thing, when rigging the frog, apply a little scent to the hook shank then work the shank through the body of the Ribbit a couple times. The plastic on the Ribbits is a little firm, so the first strike or two may result in a missed fish even if you do everything correctly simple because the hook didn't budge. Hope this helps!

I have both of the ones you mention, and my preference is the Bull Shad. The action is more realistic in my opinion. Others opinions may vary or differ even.

As long as they both catch fish, does it really matter? Now, with respect to the original poster's question which asked specifically about the BBZ-1 and the Bull Shad, the SPRO is a more finished looking product and is more marketable, but the Bull Shad looks more realistic in the water. If you want to get into swimbaits, then you need to be ready to spend some $$$ regardless of what you choose. The other thing you need to consider is rod and reel combos to cast these things - the re is a huge difference in the combo setup necessary within the same product line. Are you talking the original 6" BBZ-1 or the newer 4" or even the 2.5" baby baits? For the Bull Shads, are you talking the 5", 6" or the new 9". The line and gear requirements might be slightly different.

It was saltwater but I went 20 casts in a row and caught a speckled trout ranging in size from 14-18". Fun for sure.

I enjoy watching it every year. I love watching the effort and struggles in the mountain stages. Its a shame that PEDs have tainted this event.

Sorry I was on the water for a Heroes On the Water event all day yesterday. When choosing a seat, you have to take into consideration the pfd you will be wearing. Some seats can cause the high back pfd to ride up or sit oddly while paddling. Just something to keep in mind.

Not an issue at all. I have baitcasters, spinning, fly and conventional lever drag reels and cast them all. I will say that skip casting and dock shooting is way easier though since you so close to the water. I typically use a side arm or 3/4 overhead cast and avoid snagging rods behind me just fine.

Need pics man!! You have to show us the goods!!

I use two full arm-to-arm lengths when I tie mine on (that equates to about 10-12'). Once I get down to less than 3' of leader, I tie on a new one. I use a modified alberto knot so that the leader knot is seemless and passes through the eys without resistance.

I can give you a little insight on this one. Bob's is a well known spot for local anglers - most notably crappie and perch anglers. They hold several tournaments out of there, so unless you are in the know or have done your homework, you are not likely to get many tips from them. I wouldn't shy away from it, but you might find better options at other places. Have you ever considered chartering a saltwater trip? That might be an option as well.

I also second the Columbia branded pants, but if you are in a pinch for money, the Worldwide Saltwater Sportsman pants at BPS are affordable. Also, WalMart has started carrying a line of fishing pants by Berkley for $15/pair. Not sure of how they fit or perform but that may be an option for you. Lastly, on the Columbia, if you have a Columbia Outlet near you, you can find them there sometimes. I just purchased three pairs at $17/pair.

The major advantage of a SOT (Sit On Top) vs. a SINK (Sit INside Kayak) is actually safety. SOTs are designed with scupper holes to allow water to freely enter end exit the kayak. Very important when you fish areas like I do - ocean, saltwater bridge complexes with waves and boat wash. Also handy in areas like tidal inlets and rivers where you may encounter moving water. If water gets in, it channels itself to the scupper and out. With a SINK, you need to carry a hand operated bilge pump, perhaps a couple of large sponges or chamois cloths. If you are fishing calm smaller waters, either is fine. If you are fishing moving waters with a chance of waves or water entering the kayak hull frequently, then a SOT is the best and safest option.The SOT also affords you the opportunity to egress out of the kayak in the event of a "turtle" or flip. You might lose some gear but you'll at least be able to right the hull and get back in. With a SINK, once a large amount of water enters the hull, you will have a harder time getting the water out. Most people I know end up beaching the SINK and turning it upside down unless it has a drain plug. As you mentioned, the SOT also affords you greater range of movement and ease of entering and exiting the hull. Once you figure out which water types you will fish 70% of the time, you will be able to hone in on which hull style works best. If you are considering a SINK, don't forget to look into the hybrids like the Wilderness Systems Commander 120/140, the Native Watercraft Ultimate 12.5/14.5 and NuCanoe Frontier 12s.

Why not mothership your kayak to the same spots, drop anchor, yank they key and paddle the yak from there?

Yeah. Most of Charlies outings center around the Northwest River and Back Bay. He has a YouTube channel as well.

Welcome aboard!

Harwood Mills, Lone Star Lakes, there are plenty..... here's a good place to start and do some research: http://www.dgif.virginia.gov/fishing/waterbodies/?type=1&region=1