NBR

While I agree with BB86 the best trip I have ever had with buzzbaits was on a dead still, August day in the early after noon. A hot and not a cloud in the sky day. As we passed a shallow spot with some arrow weeds for some rason we slowed, put on a buzz bait and immediately started to catch fish. The big secret was bumpig the buzzer into one of the arrow weed stalks. We must have caught 20 or more. From time to time we caught other fish there but never like that. While we make decisions about bass activity the bass don't follow our rules.

Suspended anything is tough. Two things I try are a slip bobber and a plastic standard worm or a Senko and a Carolina rig with a minnow bait like a Rapala or a Bomber Long A. The c- helps keep the lure at the desired level. A Bomber Long A or a standard Rapala won't dive to much deeper than the sinker. I use leaders of various lenths or use a carolina keeper to easily vary the leader length.

I'll answer where I have some knowledge or experience: 1. I have had the same experience. For some time I evened out the spool by guiding the line going on with a finger. Then I noticed that after fishing with baitcaster for a while the line on the reels spool evened itself out in a short time. I use a Berkley spooling station and the line has evened itself on Shimanos, Quantums,Daiwas, Pfluegers and BPS reels. I don't give it a thought anymore. 4. Fishing in heavy cover I probably would just tie the braid to the bait.

I heard one pro comment that his break in period on the motor was 50 feet or 15 minutes which ever was the shortest from the ramp. Having said that I wouldn't be too concerned.

Call D & R Sports in Kalamazoo. At least at one time they had a good selection of topo maps of many MI lakes.

Flat on the floor with proper side up won't twist a spinning rig but it sure can twist a bc'er.

I've had a Berkley Spooling Station for over 20 years and it works great. I don't bother with it for spinning reels but it is super for baitcasters.

Get your education so you can find a job that will allow you to maintain and use a decent fishing boat.

First, spool that fluoro onto something where you can use it later. Although it is great line I think it's harder to cast backlash free and it is way to expensive to have to cut off a reel. Second, use a limp mono in the 12# to 14 # range. Third, go to the "How to cast a baitcaster" in the rods, reels and line section of this site and the instructions that came with the reel. Forth, practice in the yard, driveway any place but while fishing - you don't want to waste valuable fishing time. Fifth, practice. Sixth, practice. Seventh, practice! IMHO soon you will be using the baitcaster most of the time and wondering why you didn't start sooner. Work on nearly backlash free short casts then move forward on distance. As you skills increase you will be able to ease of on the cast control and increase your distance. It doesn't take a huge swing to achieve a reasonable casting distance. Oh! Use a heavier practice plug when you are getting started. I'd suggest 1/2 to 5/8 ounces. Bait casters are for heavier duty fishing use your spinning gear for anything 1/4 ounce and under. As your skill increase yu can work with light lures.

No specific answer to this question. Most are from pretty good to really good fishing platforms. I went from about a 14' Tinny to a used glass 17' then to a 19'. They all fished about the same but the 19 footer is much more comfortable so I fish longer per time out.

It is seldom that I disagree with Road Warrior but this time I go with DVT. That said I cast righty and retrieve righty maybe just from habit but years ago when I was really fishing a lot I often cast lefty so I could get under bushes etc. Those skills are not as sharp as they once were so now I cast righty and retrieve righty and don't see that it makes much difference. However, if you watch the Elite and FLW pros they mostly cast righty and retrieve righty with BC's and righty lefty with spinning gear! I don't know if there is a reason or not. Switching hands is not an issue. If I need to get the bait started back I switch during the cast.

Both! Carolina rig to drag along and cover more water. Drop shot to fish vertical and hopping it down a break line!

At one time I did business with a battery manufacturer. They had a vent in all their batteries so there is no need to take the caps off. Most systrems (maybe all) today have a negative ground. You put the ground wire/connection on last.

I fished Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota and Ontario waters for many many years and had very few bite offs. probaly less than one every four or five weeks. Besure after you catch or lose a pike to check you line for nicks. Also check often even if you haven't had a pike on since the rocks can play havock with line.

For goodness sakeas don't worry about one type or another of brakes. Both work! Your issue is operator control and settings. Go to the instruction in this site to set you reel. Start a little heavier with the cast control and as you gain experience ease off on the cast control as you educate your thumb. Don't try to cast into the next county as you start distance will came with time. Accuracy and minimum backlash first followed by distance.

I just fasten them to the bottom of my TM with a radiator hose clamp.

Stained to heavy stained lake dark colors, clear waters light colors or even clean plastic.

It still works but iaouldn't say that small bass won't hit it. Some years ago my daughter and I were fishing on Rainy. She was vewry new to fishing and throwing a silver minnow. She was pleased with her first smallie even though it was a runt.

I am very bored when trolling but on tough recreational fishing days trolling can be an effective way to find the fish. Those skillful in trolling methods are anything but lazy. They are highly skilled in their art.

I would agree that the basket is the bes method. To bad they didn't do a catch measure, record, release tourney. Live wells are hard enough at this time of year even with ice.I would guess there will be lots of dead bass penalties.

Crestliner and I are of the same mind. I have been crushing the barbs for well over 30 years at first I did't crush trebles on cranks etc but now all of mine are crushed from circle hooks to jigs to spoons. I rarely crush spinner bait main hooks but I do crush the trailer 100%. I lose very few fish and rarely is it the because the barbs were crushed. Advantages, easier on the fish, easier to ger our of clothers, boat seats, carpet and much easier to get out of me.

I'd start with a medium priced mono in the 10 to 14# range. Unless you are very lucky or very very good you will have to cut of a backlash or two and cutting off braid and fluoro is costly. Exdept for srface lures I use fluoro almost 100%.

C-rig the crankbait!

I've caught hundreds maybe thousands of walleye and never been bit off. Northerns are another issue.

Be more than a day trip unless you like punishment but the impoundment at Littleton ( I think it's Monroe ) has both your boat and motor should handle it since what I've seen there are not large areas of open water. Someone else that has fished there might chime in.