JayKumar

Glad u r ok. Have you ever been on that lake before. Known to get nasty north-south really quickly.

Tip from froggy expert Ish Monroe: > If I can’t seen any color to the frog when the fish grabs it, I set the hook right then with an upward popping motion. If I see a bit of the frog, I’ll wait a second before setting the hook to give the fish time to get it down its mouth more. If you miss the fish, throw the frog right back. More here in one of our BassBlasters: http://bassblaster.bassgold.com/insta-bassin-babes-whats-a-dirty-donkey-offshore-or-broke#sthash.OZV0VsSp.dpuf

One note is that fish can and do come up behind a Fluke and suck it in quickly. If you don't see them do this or see your line move, you may miss the bite or be late. Try to be in contact with something visually.

Sharp hooks for sure. Other than that, use the stiffest rod you can stomach personally, at least a medium heavy. Braid or fluoro to decrease line stretch. I personally set the hook as hard as I can most of the time, but I'm not a tournament angler...and also don't have those guys' reflexes....

I have done that and worse -- like breaking a $100+ rod to save a $4 bait.... It stinks, but you will get over it!

Lots of good bank bassin' here in Jersey, fo sho!

God is great! Awesome

Don't think i would do that regularly, but suggest calling the manufacturer for more info.

Hey tx much for serving and stay safe over there. Do you want glass or tin?

That's interesting re: smallies. Re: largies here in NJ, carp = no bass in my experience, and I stay away.

Clear water > Jigs/plastics = natural colors > Spinnerbaits = silver/chrome blades Tannic water (clear but brownish) > Spinnerbaits = copper-colored blades

If you're looking for some suggestions, how about a brief description of what you're finding -- water color, water T, water level, cover/structure, etc?

I would go heavier than 12, but that's just my preference. With that rod, 15 ought to do it.

Really depends on the bait and where you're throwing it -- cover, water color, how pressured is the lake, etc. Nothing wrong with braid and a leader, most pros use that setup. Would advise NOT to use a snap -- most aren't good quality so can break and/or not give the bait the right action, plus it's an extra expense.

Good advice. Deepest water near spawning areas, which may be 2 feet deeper or 10 feet depending on what your lake looks like. Points, drops, etc.

BASS is alive, well and doing fine. Newsstand sales (whether or not to) have to do with economics and declining space available there more than anything else.

You do not need a $60K boat to fish a tournament, and don't be embarrassed for fishing within your means. That said, make sure your boat will be safe for the lake and weather, and practice/fish accordingly. Good luck man!

Chrome/blue back only works for me when the sun is out. Cold/black back is better in muddier or more colored water.

Reelin' a grub, bouncin' a tube....

Pick up a Strike King Rage Blade. Designed by the same guys who designed the original Chatterbait, next evolution of the bait, solves that problem a bit.

Can be hard to get used to braid when you're used to mono or fluoro for a technique. I don't like brand for shakey-heads, but if you do use it make sure you have a fluoro or mono leader on there....

I know what you're referring to and can't remember either, but since then many guys on both tours have brought tin rigs to the Red and elsewhere, though I believe the Elite Series bans that now.

Bronzeye and Strike King my faves, also the Ish Phat Frogs

I'd say either will work fine, just whatever you prefer. Also I always recommend holding the rod in your hand first. You will know at that point....

It's fer sher all that....