gulfcaptain

So does this mean you may be looking for fishing partners? I'm sure there are quite a few that would jump at the chance to fish with you and walk that 1/4mi up and back to park and retrieve the truck. I'd fish there, just can't get past the waiting period to use my boat there.

A boat is only worth what someone will pay for it. You agreed to pay what you paying. As for an 06 Pro 175, about 5K s about as much as I'd pay for it well equiped. Pay the fees and enjoy the boat. TW and the bait monkey will understand.

Ah, kinda like I'll sell you these superbowl tickets for a thousand over face value, but that extra thousand I'm charging you for isn't for the tickets, it's for my autograph so I'm not scalping you the tickets. The electronics are part of the sale price of the boat and you said you're still under the market value. Still sticking with the answer I gave you earlier.

I use mine (7'MM) for dropshot and Ned Fishing. No issues. It has plenty of power to drive a light wire hook home as well as keep the fish hooked. I think it works well with the 10lb braid I use having the moderate action helps more then henders me. Now if you're trying to fish 4-6lb mono or thicker worms you might have issues, but from what you're asking I think you'll be okay.

So what you're asking is that the seller write you a false bill of sale to save you money that YOU owe in taxes for the purchase that would otherwise be owed which would be well tax fraud.....so I'd say no.

Sounds like you are totally new to this. The lever/button on the throttle is your tilt. Before you take off make sure your motor is tilted all the way down. Now as you speed up slowly tilt the motor back up after the bow has dropped down and that will speed you up once the boat is on plane/pad. You can find out what the prop is by looking at whats on the hub of the prop.

Well you're learning, keep going and you'll find the one you're looking for and get a great deal. Just be patient.

#1, Learn the rules of the road (yep there are rules on the water) and how to read marker and channel bouys as so you're where you're supposed to be. #2 Learn to back a boat up. Know everything that needs to be undone prior to pulling up to the ramp that can be done in the staging area as so you take as little time as possible to launch and get out of the way as quickly as possible when lauching and recovering the boat. #3 NEVER UNDER ESTIMATE THE WEATHER!!! Respect Mother Nature or she will make you pay. With that said, make sure you have all the life saving equipment required and have it onboard and know how to use it. I wear my life jacket anytime I'm running and the kill switch hooked to my vest. I don't plan on falling out of the boat at 65mph, but if I happen to do I will have a life jacket and my boat won't come back to run me over with nobody driving. #4 Learn the boat, go through it, have tools you need for basic things. Make sure you batteries are maintained and charged prior to going out. Check the connections, make sure you have fuel and oil before you go out. #5 Buy a map of whatever lake you're going to fish and look it over. Give you an idea of the lake layout before you get there as well as any hazards that may be there as well, but also show you areas that may be good to fish. #6 Have fun and enjoy your time on the water. The more you go out the more you will learn.

So you're kinda in charge, but not in charge and they want you to be able to do these installs later by yourself with your own crew. Before that happens and after this job, if it were me, the boss and I are going to have a long talk about "my" jobsite and the authority for me to release people that are unproductive. Nothing harder then being in charge when you're not and the guy that is isn't even there. I'm greatful the company I work for gives me the authority to write up the ones that deserve it. One warning in the log book, next one goes to the office, and the third time, well when the person that's coming to replace you shows up......I inform you to pack your crap and get off my boat as you no longer employed. I'd ask for some sort of agreement from him as so you can have control of your jobsite with his backing and full support.

Thought I'd add that so as not to send him the wrong way but little gems like those are hard to find and always best to ask before.

You have to trim it ALL the way down first before you take off, then as the bow drops you slowly trim the motor back up to bring the bow up and the boat on pad. Of course if you motor doesn't have hydraulic trim, well you're going to have to drop it to a position where you loose speed or get your buddy to run to the bow when you take off till you're up to speed to help the bow drop.

REMEMBER THIS, if you fish a private lake (apartment complex, industrial park, golf course) make sure there isn't NO TRESSPASSING signs posted. Where I live, you have to be resourseful, but something about the police taking all my stuff and a huge fine to go with it makes spots I used to fish as a teenager just not worth it anymore. Back then it was a "get out of here" now it's a "let me give you this expensive ticket and oh, I'm gonna need all your fishing equipment". Or even better, "why don't you hop in the back for the ride to the station" to be charged with the damages done to the property from others who didn't respect their property and caused them to deny access to everyone and charge all who are caught. Just saying, be careful.

If it's almost dark, I'd throw a black bait simply because they can see the outline of the bait looking up. Migh also try one of the Snag Proof Buzz Frogs as well.

I've fished Power Pro (both the regular and super slick), 832, Spiderwire, and P-line TCB Braid. Power Pro is great line, use it saltwater fishing, just needs to be broke in some. Spiderwire same thing. Now when you get into the Super Slick, 832, and TCB 8, they are all 8 straid braids which makes them quite and smooth. Right now I'm really liking the TCB 8 over 832 (which is great braid but fades really fast) and I won't use Super Slick as both the others outperform it. If it's just a vaction rod, stick with the regular Power Pro and go fishing. No need to get into expesive 8 carrier braids when the original will meet all your needs.

You have Spro, Snag Proof, Live Target. I fish Snag Proof Ish frogs, Spro bronzeye Shad, and then also fish a Deps Slither Frog. I'd stick to basic colors, one black and one with a white belly. Learn to walk them like a spook. A bait like a horny toad is another one you might try and buzz across the weeds. Only other options is to get yourself a punching set up and punch though that stuff and go get them.....but that's a whole different outfit and post for another time.

Oh they will eat a frog, you just have to figure out how the fish want the frog.

Clayton, remember one thing, YOU ARE THEIR BOSS. They don't work, let them go. No babysitting needed.....they don't work, they go home. YOU have a job to do and it isn't following and babysitting. They are temps. If that means temp till the job is complete great, or it could be as temp as the first hour of the day. Their problems are their problems. If they can't do what you ask, send them away since it sounds like you're paying them for doing nothing anyways and they are more in the way being there then helping. Being in charge isn't easy, but you can't feel sorry for the ones that don't make it. Maybe they'll learn their lesson when they realize that their actions caused them to get sent packing. Or you can have a simple "rules" memo handy for everyone that comes to work for you with a code of conduct you expect and if they don't follow it after their first warning they can be dismissed from the job site.

Bank fishing can be great, but also can really blow. Depending on time of year and body of water (I've fished as many as 4-5 parks in one day here in sunny S. Cal looking for the one that is going to be productive) I've gone without before and then I've had as many as 30+ fish. Normally average 2-5 fish an outing fishing the bank but not always. Bass fishing is more then just casting out a lure and putting it in front of a fish, it's understanding what the fish are doing, where they should be located, and taking advantage of their seasonal patterns. The more you fish the more you'll learn. And days you don't catch fish can be some of the best learning days to try and figure out why they weren't where you thought they were supposed to be or what elements changed since the last time you fished that caused them to shut off.

Well now you have a tool to get the price lower if he really wants to sell it. And also take Nick B and Kevin22's advice as well if you go back for a second look.

Have a few of them. They do run a bit shallower then the KVD squarebills do but do have a nice action.

Spend $49.00 on a BPS Graphite series Musky rod (7'6"H) and open your options instead of restricting yourself to what you can throw. Think about t this way, most swimbaits are going to cost you $15-30 each. If you're looking to fish lures in that catagory what's $50 for a new rod that can actually handle the baits your looking to fish as opposed to maxing out the rod you have right now which may be overpowered with the baits you choose to try and fish. Just my opinion though.

First thing, look into what it's supposed to be. Next thing to look at, all the cylinders are within 5-10psi of one another which is really good. What year is the motor and how many hours are on it? If you really want it, call him up and ask him if he will agree to a test drive and put it on the water and see what it does. Having all the cylinders so close in psi would ease some questions and concerns as none are way off of each other.

My Champion 203 rides really well in rough water. Of course on rough water the boat only solves half of the issue, the other half is the person behind the boat that's driving it.

I use 3 rods for frog fishing. Two are *** in a 7'3"MH and 7'6"MH. The other is a Falcon Bucco 7'3"H which is my main frog set up and throw Snag Proof frogs 98% of the time. Either Bobby's perfect frog or Ish's Phat Frog.

The rattle may fall back and then block one of the skirt holes which would hamper the air flow trying to leave the frog on the hook sets. The frog in that pic is the one I had to replace the legs on. Prior to the skirt it was soft and easy to fish, After I replaced the skirt and superglued in place it was A LOT harder to collapse until I removed the superglue and had to redue the skirt. If the frog seems hard try removing a few strands on each side and it should give the air more area to escape a well as when the rattle gets pushed back there. Just a suggestion but may help.