Smallmouth Hunter

KVD doesn't seem to do this

Not to start up some daiwa vs shimano type of thing, but chick-fil-a > mcdonalds.

I actually prefer graphite. I don't find myself losing a lot of fish with it either. I just use a rod with a moderate action and it works find. Just fight them really carefully and you won't have an issue. I have tried a composite rod and I just can't stand it. You lose so much sensitivity, and that is something I personally can't stand.

With jigs and texas rigs and other slow, bottom baits - yes, fluoro most moving baits - no cranks, spinnerbaits,- yes, mono (extra stretch will let them take it better, line invisibility is just an extra plus)

I personally would take it apart and clean the gears and drag washer, and regrease them with cal's or penn's grease. Then I would take the spool bearings and flush them out with acetone by soaking for 10 mins, and then regrease with a light oil. The factory usually packs the bearings with grease, and that can really impact the performance.

I would just switch the curado 200 and 100. The 100d is actually a 50 sized reel and will not cast lipless cranks/spinnerbaits as far as the 200 simply because it has less capacity = more turns of the spool per foot of line out = more energy needed per foot = less distance. I would buy a curado 100B spool for the 100 D so it is a true 100 size shimano, then use that for t-rigs, jigs, worms. Also, it weighs less than the curado 200 so it will be comfortable to use while doing the slower, bottom contact techniques.

They are basically the same reel: both use the same 5 magnet linear braking system, have graphite/carbon sideplates, aluminum handle, aluminum main gear, bearing supported pinion gear, etc. The Mg has a deeper spool and obviously a slower ratio. You can get one at academy for around $70. The 5:1 gear ratio is usually for cranks and spinnerbaits. I would stick to the 6.4:1 revo and get used to the ratio.

Do you have a drag star for any lefty curado already available?

There is a good chance that any of the star drags from other shimano's would fit since the drive shaft is the same thickness on all shimano reels. A chronarch D or curado E star drag would probably look nice on it..

I may be wrong, but I believe anodizing is an electrochemical process where basically a metal (which is a cation, or charged positively when ionic) is put into a anodizing bath where some type of liquid which is negatively charged (anion) bonds to the metal's surface. The frame can be anodized as long as it is metal, but the internals will end up being anodized since the whole frame will have to go in the anodizing bath, which might not be good. Not sure though...

Ugly stick ultralights are probably one of the worst routes to take. The rod is glass and is extremely whippy. http://www.fishusa.com/Product/Okuma-SST-Trout-Spinning-Rods & http://www.fishusa.com/Product/Pflueger-Trion-Spinning-Reels

This is a question I have been asking myself lately, and I just can't figure out.. I wish other companies reels/rods could be found for 20-40% off on the auction site and other sites. I was looking for a ***, and couldn't find a site that sold them less for $99.. I was hoping I could at least find $70 somewhere.

I am going to have to politely disagree with you. 50# of force can bend a spool shaft, so putting all that force on it trying to break off can really damage your spool. I recommend wrapping the line around something you have with you, like scissors or a hook sharpener, etc and pulling. I once bent a spool shaft trying to break off 40# braid a few years back and I will never make that mistake again.

*crickets*

If you look even closer, you can see the thumb rest look very similar to the curado G thumb rest..

The new releases at the classic show will probably be just the mystery citica/chronarch reel people are talking about on TT that is in the one picture on tackletour's facebook page, and the curado I. It's a great time to be a shimano fan with all these new releases.

What expo is it? I am in SC, and that deal sounds like it's worth the drive.

Just new for the JDM The new conquest will have yumeya parts apparently, and since it has the new compact design, the 100 size will probably be close to the old conquest 50 design. Add a yumeya aftermarket shallow spool, and you have a conquest 100s that is the size of the old 50s.

http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Ffishing.shimano.co.jp%2Fproduct%2Freel%2F3512&act=url http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Ffishing.shimano.co.jp%2Fproduct%2Freel%2F3512&act=url http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Ffishing.shimano.co.jp%2Fproduct%2Freel%2F3512&act=url I'll let the links do the talking..

Medium Fast = Medium power, fast action.. Maybe it is I who should've been more specific. Just tryna help man.

Go for a medium fast. I would stay away from moderate tips because it will flex too much when you jerk it and you won't have as much control.

For that price, I would rather have a denali jadewood, kovert, or ***. Personal preference only.

Some other pieces you should consider for the anodizing service are handle nuts and nut retainers. Also, do you think there is a possibility of there being some type of package deal where there is a discount if you send in 2 or more pieces to get anodized? Maybe something like $40 for three pieces (of the same color)?

Apparently, Mg costs about $2.5 per pound.. I just don't get why Daiwa didn't make the palm sideplate Mg. The steez is not worth the $ at all IMO, and I think daiwa ought to make a new flagship reel and also a $300-450 reel to compete with the Metanium and antares. Oh, and it better not be 100 sized. Way too much line capacity for me.

Not gonna lie, the ugly stick makes a great topwater rod. The tip is extra whippy and you can really walk those spooks fast. Also, you can "pop" poppers very fast.