camovan

Dawgs and Hawgs has the potential to be 20x more profitable than the brick and mortar. I would set aside some serious time to think that concept or similar bait truck idea out if I were you. Lower start up, higher margin and you go to the customer instead of waiting for them. Plus you could do it on the weekends and not quit the 9-5 until you were ready.

One day I was drifting down the Shenandoah in the kayak fishing with 30# braid. Got hung up in a tree overhanging the middle of the river. River was moving pretty fast this time of year and soon i was downstream while still hooked to the tree. My dumb arse grabbed the line forgetting it was braid, wrapped it around my hand and gave it a tug to try and break off. Braid didn't give, tree didn't give and kayak kept going. I was about half a second away from cutting off a finger when I was thankful I had line clippers tied to my chest. I was even more thankful they cut the braid on the first clip. That was the last time I direct tied braid on a float trip, always use a 10-12# leader just so I can break off if needed.

I think I would look at the endorsement option. I think the info is worth $40k to them so make it a $40k sponsorship. I have no idea how much a bait co. typically pays a pro for the endorsement sticker/jersey/patch/boat wrap etc but you can figure all that out I am sure. Win OR lose the tourny they are contractually obligated to fill their end of the bargain for the specified time. I think Catt is right on the nose about the rules, but I would get an official ruling from BASS if you seriously are entertaining selling the spot: http://assets.espn.go.com/winnercomm/outdoors/bassmaster/pdf/b_elite_marshal_rules_2009.pdf

Im in a yak so i only carry 5. 7' mh fast (abu so closer to heavy) for 1/2 oz jigs, tex rigs, etc 6'8" mh fast for 3/8 oz jigs, jerkbaits, tubes 7'6" mh med action for swimbait, heavy c rigs, a rig, punching 6'6" med fast for spooks, poppers, etc 7' med fast for stickbaits, weightless plastics, hair jigs etc. These are primary uses but with only 5 rods you have to be flexible. I drop shot with the 6'6" rod and frog with the 7' for example, while it is not the ideal rod, it works and since I dont consider those my go to techniques they rank lower on my rod buying decisions.

You can fish a buzzbait slower with a floating line since the line isn't trying to sink the bait. But, the largest buzzbait bass I have ever landed was bank fishing with flouro, after burning the retrieve, I killed it 6-8 feet from the shore and she nailed it on the fall. I would ideally fish a buzzbait with braid and usually do just to get the slowest chug along but obviously it is not a hard fast rule.

I say 2 less lost lures pays for top shelf flouro vs whatever you used before.

I personally don't think thats overkill at all, I get where your coming from on the need to know the exact number for waste. Plus like you said, your only doing it once. My problem is that I don't have 2 of the same reels so I will probably stick to Goose's method or 00Mod's if I am in a hurry.

Yes, but there was also about 50 yards spooled in the middle of that. I only measured the first 23 and last 23 yards. It's good to know though, I read not to long ago about a tourney angler who pulled some line off his reel to help him slow down and kind of just bought onto it. It may have made him slow down but it had nothing to do with the amount of line on the reel

I'm going to call this myth busted. Here is what I got. First 23 yards: 27 turns or 30.6 inches per turn Last 23 yards: 26 turns or 31.6 inches per turn Incidentally, I had exactly 23 yards of big game left on the spool so I just used that and filled the reel up without measuring out the braid figuring it was close enough.

OK, so there is no easy way, got it! LOL This is without a doubt the most practical approach. The line counter idea won't work because I have no idea how much to count off This is probably the most accurate way to do it, the space isn't an issue so I will probably go this route. The 75 yard part of the problem is the easy one I'll let you do the math and I will check your work Seriously is would be a good test to see how accurate the math is vs what I measure. Backing line: Berkley Big Game 20# .018" diameter Main Line: Power Pro 65# .016" diameter Reel: Okuma Komodo spool capacity 95 yards .014 diameter line. Retreive rate 31.5" My guess is 20 yards. Since this is such a small spool I am not sure it is really going to make a difference here LOL. I probably should have done the above exercise before posting the thread but too late for that now..... I really don't think the 50% retrieve at 50% capacity is accurate. The total diameter of a the spool with 50% line is only going to be fractionally different compared to the total diameter of the spool at 100% full since the bulk of the diameter comes from the spool itself. Regardless, I will test this tonight while spooling up and report the actual results if it interest you. I have heard this before but never seen it quantified, so I am interested in the results.

I have never really used backing on lines but was thinking about starting this. I have a new reel coming in today that I want to spool with 65# braid and I want to use only 75 yards of that as the top shot (150 yard spool). So how do I measure out or calculate the amount of backing to put on before switching to the braid? I was just planning on walking out the 75 yards of braid to measure that but I am stumped on exactly how much of the backer to use.

Kansas maybe?

They look like good options but I gotta say that mojo sticks out as a sore thumb. If you go avid, dobyns, loomis for the rest of the fleet I think you will regret that single rod.

Lol, yeah you hurt my feeling you pompous bass.

That seems like quite an upgrade from your current combo $ wise so I am sure your going to be happy fishing with it even through the beginners backlashes. Id suggest going to a nice tackle shop near you for assistance with picking out a first combo for that much cash. They will be more than willing to spool some line up and let you get a feel for a couple braking systems and explain how they all work so you can make the most of your purchase, you can also try left and right hand retrieves to see which you prefer since you cant just switch the handle anymore. Even though your buddies going to help learn you, it will be very helpful to get some instructions on how your specific reel functions before you hit the water for the first time.

Thats great. I had a similar experience with abu. Broken rod on second use, 2 emails and nothing so I just shipped it to them with a note and a check for return shipping. 10 days later, new rod and they never cashed the check for the return shipping.

Im guessing you missed the fact that the OP doesnt want a heavy rod, yet still go on to suggest he get the heaviest rod he can find. Seems to be a pattern with your post that you feel every one should fish like you. He doesnt want a heavy rod, get over it, if you have no helpful suggestions on a lighter rod or how to fish heavy cover with a lighter rod simply move to the next thread.

Well if your planning on punching with normal punching class weights your going to need a rod rated for 2oz. I prefer a mh rod with a moderate fast taper for this. I use a okuma guide select 7'6" mh for this application. It is my swimbait/umbrella rod but the only thing I have rated for over 2oz and it doesnt feel like a broomstick, it really excels as a heavy bait pitching rod IMHO.

I have one diawa spinning reel that i bought new this year that is not interchangeable so there are still some oddballs out there.

Or tilapia. Thats my plan for our pond for a variety of reasons, fat bass being only one of those goals

If making fat bass is the goal you should take that 350 tank and start farming shad, release those into the pond! Then spend some time really researching pond management on pond boss and convince your family that your capable of helping to manage the fishery. I manage a 2 acre pond on my in laws property as well. Only after many years of doing the majority of the manual labor needed to keep it healthy and thriving did I even try and approach them about letting me alter the livestock management.

I have a 600 gallon glass tank in my livingroom and believe it or not build custom aquarium filtration systems for a living so I feel I am somewhat qualified to answer this I think you will get more enjoyment out of the smaller tank but I certainly wouldn't put a bass in there. You think your family pond is overpopulated and the fish are suffering? That is absolutely NOTHING compared to how bad you will stunt a bass by putting it in a 150 gallon tank. You should be able to find used wet dry filters on craigslist for pretty cheap. If you need to better understand what that is probably time to switch forums for this type of fish advice. I think a 350 tank would be fine for a bass until it hit about 10 inches so, maybe collect fry and raise em up a little and release to the family pond if your really set on bass? Maybe try and find a source for FLA strain and introduce to the pond after fattening em up a bit and then harvest some of the unhealthy stunted ones in return? FWIW, I only do saltwater fish and coral reef gear so I got nothing to gain here but if you need some help hooking up with some good resources let me know and I am happy to point you in the right direction.

Souds like a perfect time to throw a silver buddy.

Accurate casting would probably be the #1 reason. Could you keep your zebco for panfish and then use the new reel for larger species? If not you probably are better off with spinning and you can get a little more for your money too. I couldn't live with a $50 bait caster but am perfectly happy with my pflueger president at the same price.

I use a okuma guide select 7'6" mh 1/2 to 5oz.