Kevin22

What model boat is it?

FYI when talking older boats 75% of the value is the motor, 25% the boat. When talking 25+ year old boats, chances are nothing inside of it has any real value as it is 25+ years old.. You are buying a hull and a motor, unless upgrades have been done recently. For instance the 55lb bow trolling motor, if its within the last 5-10 years it has value but if its from 1989 its worth about $50. Bilge/livewell pumps from 1989? Forget about it, chances are you will be replacing those soon. Electronics from 1989? Not worth more than $20-50. Do you understand what I am saying? You will find out that with boats that old, most likely they were older people who used them for a few years then stuck them in storage for years and are now selling them because they can't get out anymore. Thats how it works around here at least. Now step into the late 90's and early 2000's and you will hit a group who just want to upgrade and the boats still have decent value. Another thing to consider when looking for older boats is the trailer. Trailer tires are good for 10 years MAX, even if they have been sitting in storage and not used. So chances are with these $2500 boats you are finding you will need to replace nearly everything inside and out if you plan to run her hard. New tires, new batteries, new electronics, new trolling motor, probably new wiring and fuse box (I wouldn't chance it on 25 year old boats), and new bilge/livewell pumps and hoses. Keep that in mind... cheap isn't always good if you have to spend another $2000 to use it.

I am so confused. You don't like fluorocarbon and are having trouble with braid? You now use 40-50# braid but used to use fluorocarbon. I have no idea what your question is, what you are trying to do, or what line you are even talking about.

It was most likely set up for a 10hp motor restriction lake. I've seen 21' triton bass boats with 9.9's on them that guys have set up this way. (on some lakes you can't even have a motor over 9.9 on your boat while on the water). There also used to be 10hp tournaments years ago, where max hp allowed was 10 (9.9), could have been used for that. In any case, no, a 9.9 will just plow.

I would eat a smallmouth bass over a pike/walleye any day. And I eat A LOT of walleye and pike. With that being said, I don't keep smallies from around here as I would like to see the population grow a bit. Smallmouth taste better than largemouth by a long shot. Largemouth I put in with bluegills/crappies... They are a white meat fish, and when prepared and handled correctly will taste the same. If you just knock the side off and toss it in breading you probably wouldn't like it. The trick to bass is to get them on ice FAST. The second they come out of your livewell they need to go on ice or the cutting board, then on ice. Don't keep them in a hot livewell all day either, straight onto ice. When you clean them be sure to take off any brown/red meat between the meat and the skin, this is where the fishy taste is. Cut all that off so you just have white meat. Take the ribs out then lay the fillet on the table, cut above and below the lateral line and discard the line. Now halve or third out the top and bottom and toss into ice water. You can soak overnight or go straight to cooking. If you want to grill them, just leave the skin on and eat around the lateral line and the brown/red meat. Like I said, those who say they don't like bass are not cleaning them correctly. They just lop off the side and toss the whole thing in batter like it is a bluegill fillet. That's not going to work. Bass is a more fatty fish and needs to be cooked in smaller pieces so the fat (the oil taste you all hate) renders out. Just like salmon/trout, they need to be cooked special. I had a guy tell me the other day that trout and salmon taste terrible and he doesn't understand how people can eat them. I asked how do you cook them and he says "just wiff fish breadin' n oil" (his exact words). I shrugged and walked away... lol I can guarantee you if I prepared bass and did not tell you what it was you would enjoy it. Its partially mental and mostly the way they are cleaned and prepared. Oh by the way, guess what's for dinner? Bass! (well, white bass).

I was thinking the same thing. You may look online at MN/WI/SD/ND/IA/IL dealers. I'll bet you find a good condition 16' lund for your 2500 budget. Shouldn't cost too much to have it shipped, maybe $500 or so. By the time you locate "the boat" you can probably have the shipping cash saved up. Seriously, I bet 9/10 boat dealers in MN have a 16' lund V on the lot right now. Especially 88-94 models.

That is GREAT to hear. Now who wants to buy an old mojo so I can get a new one? lol!

FYI when you break that st. croix you can send them $85 and get a brand new legend tournament (I assume that's what they will send) no questions asked. Look at the gold plan http://stcroixrods.com/service-warranty/service-warranty-policies/

A couple ways. 1. over pads. GREAT technique on pressured waters. Slowly reel it over pads and let it drop in between them for 3-5 seconds then pop it back to the surface and reel until you hit the next hole. 2. as a jerkbait (fluke). Probably similar to what you were doing.

Sure. They are the square bills that KVD designed. The 1.5 weighs 3/8oz and the 1.0 weighs 1/4oz. The series 5 is also a strike king bait and is 1/2oz. I use a lews speed spool 6:1 and 15# seaguar red label. With the 1/2oz deep crank I can almost spool my reel. So about 75 yards-ish (calm day, perfect cast, etc). The square bills I've never really bombed, but an easy 40 yards on a cast down a rip-rap bank with both 1.0 and 1.5. I know my distances as well, before anyone chimes in and calls me out. I can set a duck decoy at 40 yards and be within 2 yards every time, proven that many times to my buddies. On the cast, the rod loads plenty (maybe a TAD light for the 1/4) for a bomb cast. If you need to cast longer then you need to invest in a better reel and a longer rod than I have. I don't know why the rod won't load up for you, unless they really changed the action from when my rod was made. If you are talking about not getting good casting distance, its probably your reel or line.

Hmm i have a 7'4 mh kvd crank rod and have no problems. I use it for 1.5 and even some 1.0 square bills. I have no problem loading the rod and fishing those. I also have thrown a few series 5 cranks on it, again with no issues. Im not sure what mine is rated for, but it shouldnt be too different than yours. I use 15# fluoro with this rod.

I eat bass sometimes. I find no difference between them and other "panfish". You just have to clean and prepare them correctly. My favorite way is grilled with the skin on, a little old bay and butter. I wish Iowa would let me eat 12-14" bass, those are the best eating and most overpopulated. 12-16" would be a great slot for eating fish, instead its 15"+ and on some lakes 18"+. I release fish over 16".

Is it a permanent installation? If so, I would epoxy it on and seal around it if you don't want to drill holes. Marine silicone will probably hold it on for a year or two, but I'd worry about the day it does come off, hopefully you don't leave enough slack in your cables for it to slide over and hit your prop!

I don't know how the boat is laid out, but re carpeting a bass boat isnt easy work. Working around all the compartments and corners is not easy. One wrong cut and its over. Mine is peeling up and rotting out on a 96 ranger, it needs to be replaced. Twice a year I am spraying new adhesive in places the carpet is peeling up. I asked a few places what it would cost for medium marine carpet (not high end, not cheap astro turf) and they said about $500 for the carpet and $500 labor for tearing old out and putting new down.

buy the bird

Split tail trailer. i cut the weedguards off for open water and of course leave it on when around weeds/pads.

I know the locations, I've fished them all. I meant that I don't recognize those dates/locations as being part of the clubs around here.

Two things I HAVE figured out while using hybrid. 1. It does sink (pulls my slip bobbers sideways) 2. fluorocarbon has better abrasion resistance... at least the ones I have used. Trilene 100%, Stren (the alternative in this thread), seaguar red label, and vicious fluoro. Got any more?

Go ahead Francho. Name me one instance where a braid to copoly leader is better than a braid to fluoro leader. I honest to God cannot think of one. Mono might be better than fluoro if you wanted to run braid/leader for a topwater. But the topic is on copoly lines (hybrid).

It shouldn't need to be in the water for a long time to work right, it should work right out of the package. I'm just saying what will happen eventually. I personally wouldn't use a bait that didn't work right out of the package. Might send an email to SK explaining what is happening and ask for advise. They made it, they can tell you how to make it work. Check for grigsby articles on it also, I know he likes to use it a lot (he might have designed it actually).

I just read about the tatula ct on daiwas facebook page. Supposed to be a smaller overall profile tatula with a smaller spool.

I do the same as gundog when using heavier drop shot baits. The longer the bait is in the water the more water it will absorb and the more "neutral" it will get. I have no experience with that bait though. Seems odd that it would sink and be called a drop shot bait.

Check out youtube. Lots and lots of info on crappie fishing. I'm not sure if you are wanting info on tube jigs, feather jigs, or jigs and minnows but they are all fished differently. just like bass fishing, there is no right or wrong way.. whatever works.

Best $100 msrp reel out there. I've switched to all lews now.

I've used a lot of different knives. The one I have settled on is the bubba blade 9" tapered flex. The grip and overall length gives the knife tremendous leverage. The steel is chinese, but it holds a great edge. I've had it for 3 seasons now and have not sharpened it once. I hit it with a steel every few fish, just 3-4 passes across it. Conservatively, I would guess probably 1500 fish cleaned with it by going through the ribs and its still sharp. It will still cut the hair off my arm, very good edge retention. All of my fishing buddies now own one as well, and all love them. I used electric for 3-4 years and it was okay. Did the job but was annoying having cords hanging, and my cordless battery lasted a year so gave up on that idea. Went to the bubba and will never go back. Don't get the 7", its too short and stiff. And don't get the "flex" (the one that looks like a machete). 9" tapered flex is the perfect knife. From bluegills to 30" pike... it does them all.