Alpha Male

I have a Lowrance elite 7 HDI on the console and would like to add a second unit on the console with side scan & downscan that can share waypoints with the current unit. I also want to add a bow unit that can also share waypoints. So my question what units can still connect with it? Chirp, Elite Ti, Elite Ti2, HDS gen2? Mainly looking at used units like an elite 7 at the bow and a HDS 10 for the console. Any information and advise would be welcomed Thank you

I have a Elite7 HDI at the bow and want to upgrade to a HDS unit at the console. My question is can these units share waypionts?

I think im not going to worry about down scan at the bow so I will be looking at the Power drive V2, Terrova, or fortrex for the US2 built-in. we are about to have a hard water problem up here in the north so I will be buying this over the winter for next year.

thank you. thats helpful. next question... I am considering other brands now but, after looking at humminbird and garmin I cant find any moderately priced units that offer side-scan and down-scan in the same package... do they offer any? have I over looked them? Priorities are: 1) side-scan, down-scan, and GPS at the console screen size: 7-10" price: 500-1200 2) GPS at the bow with good depth maps screen size: 5-8" price: 300-700ish 3) shared waypoints Another side question: I do not yet have a trolling motor mounted. How reasonable is it to run the transducer from the unit to the trolling motor head? on a cable steer? on an electric steer? FWIW its a 17' cajun fish & ski boat so the front deck isnt a football field like the bass boats. so the size of the petal is a concern for me.

I am fixing up an old boat and am looking at some lowrance units for the console and bow. I know I want structure scan at the console. I dont care about side scan at the bow but would like to keep the downscan working which means that built in transducers are not ideal. how effective is it to run a transducer wire down the side of the trolling motor shaft? can an elite/hook/ti unit share waypoints with a HDS unit? Also information is sketchy about it so I will ask you guys. with the Elite Ti series Totalscan units can you use side scan and downscan at the same time?

thats solid information. FYI the boat is stored in a heated garage year-round so it wont be freezing. I think that I will head to west marine and check out the epoxy that they have and some sort of keel saver. Thanks for the help guys and I will be back with more questions as I progress through this project.

thank you for your replies. I have heard mixed reviews on the keel shield. any reason to consider moving the roller near the hole or is it ok? also, gulfcaptain, are you thinking that i need you sand all the gelcoat in the area and then use the glass tape? I was still thinking that I would recoat the 3' section of the centerline with a coat or gelcoat or something. but still considering the keel protector as well.

Morning all. I have a 81 ranger 1600-v3 bass boat that has a leak. It is right on the center line about 1" in diameter and want to know what you guys recommend to patch it? I thinking an epoxy type resin. I'm really looking to avoid cutting out a big hole. let me know what you guys think. and thanks in advance for your help.

I have both avid and ltb rods. I feel the difference and it is slight but its up to you to decide if its worth it. I was on the fence 2yrs ago like you i had the avid first and wondered fit was worth it. I went for it and my LTB ismy favorite rod. I read an article, that I wish I could find again, the goes through the drastic differences between the sc3 and sc4 blanks. Thearticle also says that the 5&6 blanks are amazing. (NO...the article was written by St.Croix) I say go for it

If you like performance you would love the 832. I prefer it over Power Pro.

For me its really about the action of the particular mold more than brand. ALL-TIME #1 is the KVD MAGNUM Dreamshot in Brown-Purple T-rigged Close Second is the Kicker Frog From Berkeley. I dont know what it is about those 2 but no matter where and when i throw those two they just produce. Other baits I like by Type are: Worm: Yamamoto - Senko Yamamoto - Pro-Senko Zoom - Trickworm Strike King - Rage Tail Anaconda Roboworms - Most varieties Z-man - Finesse worm Z-man - Sawtail worm Bass Assassin - Tapout worm Owner - Shakeyworm Owner - Shivertail worm Craw: Strike King - Rage Craw Xcite - Raptor Tail Jr. Z-man - Turbo Craw Zoom - Speed Craw Yum - F2 Crawbug Cabelas - Swimming Craw Missle- D Bomb Yamamoto - Flappin Hog I use some other types like Frogs, tubes, flukes, and creatures but those are the ones that I really like the action on. The Cabelas and Xcite baits are suprisingly good.

I would hit the rushes in the background of pic #2. I bet there are a few fish up in them. there are also what looks to be over hanging trees as well, thats another good place for fish. also as the others have said a frog would be a good start.

At the Moment??? You planning on going for a swim soon?

Hmm... The Z-man Turbo craws and saw tail worms that I have used both float very well. The turbo craws float so much that i dont like putting them on jigs because they stand up the jigs.

They make "line floats" for walleye fishing. They look like a little "pill". Second option is to buy baits made from elaztech plastics. They float quite well.

I have the 7'1" med-fast that is labeled as "plastics". I do use it for plastics because its my favorite rod and plastics are my favorite way to fish. Its got a lot of power and is sensitive as well. I can use it for everything plastic from a finesse worm to a plastic frog in the pads. Im sure the 6'8" would be as versatile as most in the ltb series.

I fish in the mille lacs area a lot and I havent seen any of the launches - "charter boats" targeting smallies for this reason because and the limit on that lake is ONE smallmouth over 18" and a total of 6 bass large/smallmouth combined. Also the Launch pilots make a living on the lake and dont throw fish away like that, not have I heard that the Walleye fisherman are or were blaming the smallmouth, the blame is currently being put on the northern pike population so they have raised the limit to 10...YES T-E-N pike, when the state limit is 3! Also they dont allow ANY Live-well sorting - "Culling" of fish. Here is the link to the regs for that lake http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/fishing/millelacs.html They have the right idea for the bass population and they are working on the walleyes as well. For what its worth I usually fish on the smaller lakes around Mille Lacs and do eat Bass, Walleye, Northern Pike, Crappie, Perch, and Sunfish. I can say that to me all fish taste better when on the smaller side. Bass and Walleye around 1-2lb, northerns around 4-8lb, and any panfish worth filleting. I do enjoy bass fishing and prefer to practice CPR but I also enjoy the taste of fish so I prefer to keep the smaller fish for eating and any fish that wont survive the catching process. If I catch 2 walleye 2 LMB, and 2 SMB and cleaned then and filleted them I would have a hard time telling which was which. The water around central minnesota is quite clean and you can see down 14-18 feet on most lakes. maybe that has something to do with it...maybe it doesnt and Im just tastebud-retarded... I dont know. I do know that the larger fish taste "fishy-ier" than the smaller fish.

Plano 3771. I love the Custom dividers.

I have a dobyns and a pinnacle and like them both.

I use 8's for worms and jerkbaits. 7's for jigs and frogs. 6's for spinner/buzz/chatterbaits. And 5's for cranks.

I emailed Plano tying to get some of the angled dividers for the 3771 andthey wouldn't do it. Wouldn't even sell me the dividers...lame.

I use a lot of braid. I use it for spinnerbaits, buzzbaits, chatterbaits, crankbaits, jigs, and jerkbaits. I will use a leader if I feel it necessary for jerkbaits and jigs.

First...about duckett rods...they sound like fine rods, but I will never consider buying one. I dislike that they don't put the lure rating on the rods. That's a deal breaker for me, its worse than the house brand rods like gander Mt or cabelas that just rate the rod as medium action or medium-heavy action. From a rod in this price range I expect more, and there is plenty or competition in the 100-200$ range. As far as warranty goes paying for return shipping is par for the course. I have had to return 3 rod in the last 9 months. 1 abu garcia veritas had a guide insert come out, the rod was 8months old. 10$ in return shipping got me a veritas 2.0. 2 was a pinnacle perfecta that had the tip break off, I had to cut out the part of the rod with the specs on it and send it in with a payment for 20$ for return shipping. 3rd was a 30+ year old fenwick eagle flipping stick that cracked below the first guide from the reel. 15$ to ship them the rod and 10$ for them to send me a brand new hmx. They replace the rod and we pay for shipping...its a good system...lets not start messing with it.

You will get a lot of rod for 200$. My personal recommendation would be a St. Croix Avid or Pinnacle Perfecta DHC5.

I would recommend a Fenwick EliteTech Smallmouth rod. they are discontinued but you can find them on ebay for 119$ best offer.