ChrisD46

*I understand braid mainline + FC leader . My questions on FC mainline with a drop shot are due to an article I read by KVD for Michiana bass fishermen : While KVD uses a braid + FC leader drop shot set up - he discusses the attributes of using straight FC main line for drop shot in certain situations where he likes it better (less line bow with FC main line versus braid which means better feel and bite detection) ... KVD goes on to state that: "if you are going to use a braid mainline for drop shot - consider going from a 6' FC leader to a 18' FC leader (yes, a 3X longer FC leader which means winding the FC leader onto your spinning reel ) ... Your thoughts on this ?

I can find #6 lb. InvizX locally - I figure worth trying as a mainline (50 ~ 60 yrds.) for drop shot (even Ned rig) and if I don't like it I can always use as leader material for my other braid + FC leader spinning set up .

*You can save money by using a mono backing - all you need is about 60 yards of FC line on top (not a whole reel full) .

I'm interested in the best FC finesse main line (#6 lb. ~ #7 lb.) that handles well on a 2500 series spinning reel for drop shot : For those that have tried the above two FC lines as a drop shot main line (i.e. straight FC ) - what are your experiences ? ... Do you notice enough difference in say Sunline Sniper #7 lb. FC line or Seaguar InvizX #6 lb. FC used as a main line ? ... My plan is to load a 2500 series spinning reel about 2/3rds of the way with mono backing and then a top shot of straight FC main line for drop shot applications . Thanks in advance !

*I appreciate the quick replies !

I would write Gary (at his website) and ask about his cranking set up for square bills and lipless cranks ... FC line has less stretch than mono and braid + FC leader has less stretch yet . *Individual preference however a bit of give , parabolic rod bend , etc. in a square bill and lipless (open water) can be a good thing with treble hooks . For deep diving cranks or lipless cranks ripping out of grass then a stiffer , more heavy duty rod would be in order . I believe you need two cranking rods : One M (6'8" ~ 7') for squarebills and lipless cranks in open water and one in MH action (7' ~ 7'6") for lipless cranks ripping out of grass and deep diving cranks .

What are a few popular flat sided square bill crank brands you have had success with ?

Thanks for the replies - since braid lasts fairly long I will look into the Smackdown 10 lb. ~ 15 lb.

Appreciate the replies ! ... There certainly appears to be a time and place for both !

I'm trying to better understand when you would choose a flat sided crank bait versus a lipless crank bait in cold water ? ... I understand why the flat sided crank bait excels over a round bodied crank bait in cold water - but not so much in understanding the nuances between the flat side and lipless crank baits as to when you would reach for one or the other ? ... Thanks in advance for replies .

*Good suggestions - I would also consider a 4" paddle tail swim bait (shad color) on a 1/4 oz. jig head and what about a 1/2 oz. football jig for bottom dragging + craw looking trailer ( GP color ) ?

*Here is what Gary says himself about the 702sf & the 703sf : For open hook presentation (i.e. Ned Rig , drop shot , etc.) go with the 702sf. For hook points buried into soft plastic (i.e. shakey head , T-Rig , Fluke , etc.) go with the 703sf. I believe this is a good rule of thumb (along with open water or cover scenario considerations).

*I bought the Sierra's on sale at TW for the same price as the Fury's basically ... I would not hesitate to buy a Fury !

I have recently bought three Dobyns rods : *Sierra 703sf *Sierra 734c *Sierra 735c The above rods cover about 15 different baits and tactics for bass ... Waiting to be bought next will be a Sierra 702sf and a Sierra 766 FLIP... I concur with all the positive comments for Dobyns in this post.

After more research , it appears the main trait for bottom dwelling applications is that the SX1braid is more neutral (i.e. doesn't float or sink) which may have some benefit . I would think PP #10lb. ~ #15 lb. braid would sink just fine for a drop shot , shakey head , etc. without putting a bow in your line .

I notice a number of Pro's use the Sunline SX1 Braid #12 lb. on a spinning reel with a leader for drop shot , shakey head , etc. *Is there any advantage to this Sunline SX1 braid for spinning reel applications mentioned above versus say Power Pro #10 lb. or #15lb. used as a mainline with a leader on a spinning reel ?

*The black (Loon) color 190 works well for great white sharks looking for a seal meal ! The 190 size strikes me as being used on the Big O , Lake Toho , etc. (Florida strain bass) or out at Clear Lake , CA Delta (California) . I like the 110 size most often for all other bass (although there are those who prefer the 130 size even on spotted bass - go figure ) .

*Used the drop shot / finesse hooks - work well and priced well !

*in the winter a technique to try is let the trap sink to the bottom - then yo-yo off the bottom , retrieve a foot or so then repeat . Often bass tend to relate to the bottom in cold water months .

Worms , Craws & Creatures : Green Pumpkin , Watermelon Red , Watermelon Candy , Junebug , Black & Blue , Plum Shad & Bluegill Imitators : Pearl White , Shad , Green Pumpkin , Black & Blue

*That's a short shank ball head jig - who makes it ?

Here are two of my "poor man's cranking rods : 1) Square Bills : Berkley Lightening Shock 6'6" M casting rod 2) Lipless Cranks : Berkeley Lightening Shock 7' MH casting rod The above are both under $50 each and made softer with a combination of graphite / glass to absorb the shock of using braid on hook sets. However I use them with a low stretch co-poly line instead (for cranking) and they work fine until I can decide what I would like to upgrade to !

Good line replies here (including Line & Lure and KVD line conditioner) . I would also add P-Line CXX #8 lb. ~ 10# lb. with a line conditioner ... Lately , I have jumped on the Maxima Ultra Green line band wagon as besides being strong with low stretch , good knots , lower memory , etc. the stuff seems to disappear in the water (due to the way it reacts to light) plus it's almost the exact same color as the reservoirs here in North Georgia . The only downside is it's not available locally so online via TW is a must .

The Yamamoto Senko Green Pumpkin / Watermelon black flake laminate color (if I had to choose only one) . Otherwise the straight Green Pumpkin with black flake , Watermelon with Red flake , Black with Blue flake and for when bass are really focused on shad - Pearl Blue with Silver flake are staples and all I need to cover most all conditions . *Do I have other colors ? ...Yes ! I have other solid colors (such as Junebug) and a couple other laminate colors Yamamoto makes which I will use from time to time (just to mix it up) .

*What ever Ish Monroe is using today !! ... All kidding aside , I like the Booyah Pad Crashers and Pop'n Pad Crashers - they are fairly durable and soft enough to collapse down on a bite to get a good hook set (decent hook quality too) . Plus I'm a fan of the brown color Jason Christie got introduced - That's an all - around confidence color frog for me now ... Until I find the Booyah frogs are have a weakness - I'm better off learning how to use a frog more effectively instead of searching for other frog brands .