G3 Fan

I use a Duncan Loop knot at least I think that is the name, awful similar to a uni-knot. I like it because I can tie the loop, put it on the spool and draw it tight. My fingers are too big to try and get knots tight down at the base of the spool.

Welcome aboard. Well, if you are sure the line isn't wrapped around the bail or a line guide or in any way tagled, twisted or knotted. There is a lot of missing information to be able to blame the reel and without knowing your skill level I don't want to offend you. Is the reel a front or rear drag? Spools on the spinning reels I am aware of are not gear driven, they ride on an oscillating shaft and drag doesn't really play into the retrieve. If you were using a bait that overpowered the outfit or you were hung up the drag may slip. Again I don't mean to offend but the more I think about the more confused I get, are you sure the reel isn't a spincast reel? If it really is a spinning reel and you are sure the line isn't tangled, I would suggest taking the line off the reel and give it a few cranks to see if the reel still does it.

I have caught catfish on plastic worms, crank baits, spinnerbaits and even flies (wooly bugger) catfish are predators and will eat live food when they get to a certain size. Every cat I have caught has been in current with no visible cover.

I had a friend who used to compete in bowfishing tournaments up on the Great Lakes and I am almost positive that all of the carp harvested went to a pet food company or a fertilizer company. That was back in the early '90's and they probably don't do that anymore, I don't know I lost touch with him but I am sure politcal pressure probably screwed it up. I also don't condone killing for sport, I get a little fired up about these closed minded activist groups that think they are doing some good. The thing that people should be concerned about and could actually do something about is stopping the introduction of non-native species into our waterways and wildlife. When they are discovered they shoule be eliminated. I get really fired up when boaters don't clean their boats after leaving an area that is posted (or not).

Thanks for the insight but I don't want to start a Shimano war. I wish I could be loyal to one brand but there are so many great products on the market it is hard to pick a favorite.

I have been trying to find out what the difference in Daiwa braking systems are. Does anyone know? I am assuming the "best" is Magforce V then Magforce Z then Magforce. Thanks

Yeah last night my wife told me that she was pretty sure that I had ebayed everything that was mine (the stuff she doesn't have any interest in) and I was to the point that I needed "approval" before I post anything else. I tried to tell her I was only taking pictures and writing a description of her designer shoes and purses for insurance purposes.

Cabela's has Team Daiwa V103HI for $79.99, Advantage $69.95 and Advantage Super Tuned (left hand only) $99.95

I have this old Storm Thin Fin Bass Hog 3/8 oz spinnerbait. Is there any lure collectors out there that know if this thing is worth any money? The order number and size are handwritten so I am thinking the company wasn't too big at the time. Any help would appreciated. I apologize if I posted this on the wrong board.

I've wondered the same thing. I am amazed at how brand loyal some people are I don't think it is a bad thing it just surprises me. If I were making a living at fishing I would probably have everything from the same mfg. just for ease of use and parts swapping etc. But since I fish for fun I enjoy trying different companies products. I have a bunch of Quantum products and I haven't been disappointed. I have had one Accurist that seems to break one way bearing sleeves on a regular basis, it is on it's third one now. I think Quantum is trying hard to gain marketshare, I think their PT Club is a great idea. I haven't found another company that has a rewards program for buying their products. I also think their website is top notch for a fishing company, there is a lot of good information there and it is easy to navigate. Some companies really should put more effort into their online image. I can think of a few that the website is still lists the 2005 or 2006 catalogs or products. With that being said, I did a little test over the winter. I sent an email to most of the major mfgs of tackle. I just asked a simple question to see if they would reply trying to get a feel for customer service and to help me decide what brand my next purchase would be. That idea backfired every email I sent was answered within two business days. So I guess the moral is buy what you like in the price range you can afford.

You didn't give much info to go on. You mentioned PA. are you going trout fishing? I would say (others will disagree) that if you want multi use rod start with a 6wt. Orvis Clearwater or Streamline rods are good if you can afford them I have also used the Cabela's Traditional and they are nice for the money. Cabela's also has the Genesis outfit which comes with everything to get started. BPS has some decent rods and outfits. The Orvis Streamline is available for $149.00 as an outfit (rod reel line backing and 1 leader) As for the rod I would go with a moderate or medium fast action. Fast rods are a little tricky to learn with. With a slower rod you will be able to feel it load. If there is a flyshop near you that is the place to start. Most good fly shops will have equipment at different price points and most will give you some free pointers. The one near me gives free intro lessons once a month to whomever wants to come. You will need flyline, flyline backing,leaders, tippet material and some flies to go along with you rod and reel. Some basic all species flies would be Wooly Buggers, Clouser Minnows, Muddler Minnows and the list goes on. Orvis currently has on their website "20 greatest Trout flies $9.95" stuff like that is a good way to get you flybox loaded up with versatile flies. If you are going to PA to trout fish I would learn how to cast before you go and I would visit the fly shop in PA to find out what flies are working based on the time of year you will be there. Trout can be very selective and unless you are an entomologist it is a lot easier to ask the locals what is hatching.

Welcome to the site. I am glad to see young people taking interest in the sport. If your son has only $100.00 to buy a rod and reel I would suggest the special Bass Pro Shops has going on right now. I can't remember which rod it has but it looks decent and the reel is a Shimano Citica I think it is on sale for $129.00 (the reel retails for $119.00) Another good choice would be the Bionic Blade with the Abu Garcia Revo S for $139.99. I would recommend the rod being a 6'6" M if it is his first casting rod it will be pretty versatile. Dick's sporting goods has some All Star/Pflueger combos but the reel is the "house" version of the Purist and it has a plastic frame and just feels kind of cheap. Once he gets the set up you should print off some of the baitcasting how to's on this site and make sure he practices in the yard before hitting the water. There is going to be a rather steep learning curve. Then when he does start to fish with it I would suggest taking a spinning rod along the first few times just in case. If you son gets easily frustrated make sure he understands what he is getting into and he will take the time to learn, if not he may be furhter ahead to upgrade his spinning tackle. I'm not trying to discourage you but I fondly remember being a kid and trying to learn to use a baitcaster and the frustration that came with it for the first few tries. Good luck and I applaud you for "laying down the law with your son"

In regards to the debate between a 6wt or 8wt rod keep in mind the higher line weights will allow you to cast larger flies easily. If you are going to throw a size 6 wooly bugger for bass than a 6wt is fine but if you start getting into larger flies and poppers they have some weight and wind resistance and trying cast them on light equipment can be a chore. Especially if you are new to casting or if you go with entry level or intermediate equipment. I prefer a rod with a moderate action, they load easier and you don't have to work so hard to get line out. A fast rod will give you more distance but your casting stroke has to be pretty good. I agree with everyone else you need to go to a flyshop and cast some rods. Make sure to cast different actions and not just different brands. And make sure the equipment will handle the size fly you are planning on using. I think it was the May 2006 issue of "Fly Rod and Reel" that had a review of Bass flyrods it is worth hunting down. If you can't find it PM me and I will copy the pages and send them to you. As for the differences between flylines: If you have a regular flyine and you don't want to fork out $50.00 for a bass taper just cut about 12"-18" of the head of you flyline. Of course I wouldn't reccomend doing that if you plan on using the line for other presentations.

I am not trying to bash anyone's marketing techniques or make any false accusations but I do know that since the Dick's near me has opened a year or two ago the Quantum Inferno has been on sale for $49.99 with the regular price being $99.99. The Quantum Xenon has a retail price of around $70.00 I think. Cabela's regular price for the Callisto is $39.99. At one point all of my casting reels were Quantums, I had a few Accurist's but most were from the PT series. The only reel I didn't sell was a Accurist PT that keeps breaking the one way bearing sleeve which why I didn't sell it. So that reel is going to either end up in the trash or I am going send it to Reelmech to see if he can make it right. I think either reel will perform within the expectations of an inexpensive reel. I just wouldn't want you to buy it because you think you are getting such a great deal on a product. I wish I could comment more on the actual products but I prefer reels with centrifugal brakes and metal frames. If you have it narrowed down to those two I would take the rod you are planning on using with it to the store and put both reels on it and see which one feels better and balances to your liking. Good luck

I've never had very good luck with inexpensive baitcasting reels, sometimes they can be extremely frustrating especially if you are just getting back into it. Quantum doesn't list an Inferno on their website and if I had to guess I would say it is a model made for Dicks based on the Xenon. I bought an All Star Rod/Pflueger Reel combo from Dicks and the price was around $10.00 or $15.00 more than just the rod, the reel is ok but not great but the rod is pretty nice. Buying a combo might be a better option at least that way you'll have a decent rod when you outgrow the reel. BPS products seem to get a lot of positive feedback on the site and I am considering buying a few of their combos when they go on sale based off what I have heard here. I know I haven't been much help but hopefully someone on the site can give you first hand experience with the products.

I have been invited to fish a buddy fishing league this year, of course this great opportunity comes when my rod/reel inventory is at an all time low but that is another long story. My question to you is how do the BPS Extreme and/or Rick Clunn signature series casting rods and especially reels perform? I can't pass this chance up but it couldn't come at a worse time financially (taxes etc) I can't decide if I should sink a bunch of money into one good outfit and try to fish the season with one casting and one spinning outfit ( I already have a good spinning set up) or if I should pick up 3 or 4 of the BPS combos so I can be rigged on the water. Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions.

Are you looking for a bay boat or a flats boat? Are you looking for a dual purpose boat because you live on the coast? Or would it be used just for bass fishing? Most flats boats are great in skinny water, shallow draft no hull slap etc. but the price you pay will be in ride quality, they are pretty rough and you will probably catch some spray. They don't have as much storage as a bass boat and most have seat cusions on a bench seat. They are pretty light and will plane with smaller motors most in the 40 to 60 hp range. Bay boats are usually bigger and are designed for inshore fishing so the will handle rougher water. I have a friend who owns a 20' bay boat and he fishes Lake Erie and some of the local lakes. The only negative thing he has ever mentioned to me about using it for bass fishing was the freeboard is greater on his boat than a bass boat.

Thanks for all of the info. I agree with you about the trend towards excessively long rod butt sections, they are not designed for fishing out of small boats. I had an old Lew's Speedstick with a pistol grip and it was may favorite worming rod until it got stepped on.

First of all welcome aboard. Your electronics issues could be caused by a lot of different things. Did the fish finders work 100% when you bought the boat? Was the boat stored outside in the winter? It could be the wiring is oxidized or damaged. Have you checked the power wires? the inline fuse or holder on the positive side might be loose or oxidized, the ground wires might be loose or oxidized. Is there only one connection point on the back of the fishfinder? Some have a second connection for accessories. If you don't have the owners manuals you should download them from the mfg's website. http://www.lowrance.com/

I think 3M also has a product that body shops use. If you have an auto supply store near by.

I am getting ready to build a spinning rod and I have been considering using the Fuji hooded reel seat. My concern is that I may lose too much sensitivity. The way the foregrip covers the reel foot makes me think it will act like an insulator. Does anyone have any expierience or comments in regards to this style of reel seat?

If I had to guess I would say Quite F'n True

I don't know boats well enough to look at that picture and tell you the mfg. But aluminum fishing boats are fine. If you are going to do a lot of river fishing in shallow water you might want to look at tunnel hulls and a jet drive motor.

I agree with everyone's post about getting a job, if you are already working part time that is great. I also agree with your father, at you age you might not see the value of education. Look at the big picture ten years from now you will have a good job because of your education and then you can have the boat of your dreams and actually be able to afford it. Instead of trying to talk your dad into spending your tuition money on a boat you could pick up a second part time job and in a month or two have enough money to buy an old boat. You never know, your initiative might impress your dad to the point where he would partner up with you on fixing up the old boat.

It depends on how much you are looking to spend. I don't know if I would get a flat bottom jon If you are looking for a relatively inexpensive aluminum boat my .02 would be to get a welded hull (a lot of the welded hulls are more of a mod V) jon with a 20" transom. For instance compare the difference in design between a companies riveted and welded jons. Welded jon hulls will be very similar to a companies aluminum bass boat hulls, in some cases they may be the same. True flats boats are designed for shallow running and no hull slap when poling. The v hull on flats boat I think is more for the stealth of flats fishing most flats boats will give you a rough wet ride in a heavy chop. Most flats boats are hand made and fairly expensive.