WIGuide

They'll probably get me to invest in a few of each, lol

I would go with a dual purpose given that it will also be running your electronics as well.

Yes, usually the bites will pick up in the afternoon to early evening as the water warms up.

They're pretty much all fished on the same setup unless you have some really big ones. I'd suggest a 6'6"-6'8" M/F. A St. Croix Avid or Legend Tournament Bass would be a great line to buy from.

Haven't had too many issues with fish missing the bait. Sure it happens from time to time but if they're missing that much it might be an indication you need to change something up. As for the slowing down the hookset, you WANT a fast hookset. You want to drive those big hooks home right away and get that fish moving.

I think that'll work very well for you are planning on to use it for. I'm actually going to be getting the same rod just in the LTB series this year just for drop shotting.

You can either use a zip tie or tie them with an extra bit of braid. It's not a bad idea to do that when they're new and then you won't have any issues with them. I prefer to use Terminator Quick Skirts or otherwise Strike King and Northland equivalents.

I've tried the stand up boxes and really don't care for them. I really like the binder style ones. I have the BPS spinnerbait binder. I think it may have been discontinued, I'm not totally sure, but browning has one that's very similar. What I really like about them is that you can store a lot of spinnerbaits in them. Also, if I'm fishing out of a different boat, they can be put on top of my tackle trays in my top loading tackle bag.

Both of you guys have your terms mixed up. There are two ratings on rods, the first is power and the second is action. Power describes the strength or backbone of the rod, or how much pressure it takes to flex a rod. Rod action describes the taper of a rod and thus where it flexes. For instance a a moderate action rod starts tapering deeper into the blank and with flex further down into the blank most of the time down to the middle. An extra fast action rod will only taper towards the tip, usually in the first 6 inches or so. Back to froggin' given the heavy slop you fish them in and the big hooks they have on them you usually want at least a medium heavy power rod and that's considered a little light, but you can do it with those. Quite honestly a heavy power rod is a better option. It will give you enough power to drive those two big hooks home on a bass and get them turned to hopefully bring them up onto the slop. Sometimes even with a big rod you won't get them turned quick enough an you'll just have to go get them. As far as action goes, you generally want a fast action in a froggin' rod. An extra fast action rod doesn't usually offer enough tip to get good distances on a cast, and a lot of times will limit you hookup percentage. In comparison, a moderate action flexes down into the blank so far that a lot of times you won't get as much power into your hook set as you need. Overall, a heavy power fast action rod will put more fish into your boat. A 7.1 or higher gear ratio will help you to pick up slack when froggin' if you're fishing it real shallow a lot of times the fish will hit an run away from the bank or in other words right back at you. A high gear ratio will help you pick up that slack that they creates. Also, the faster retrieve will help you to bring in a bait in quicker if you miss a fish and the bait comes flying back at you. It allows you to reel up quick and fire another cast right back in there. Lastly, you need to be fishing a frog with braided line. It's no stretch qualities will help with your hookset, and braid will also slice through vegetation.

Mine is pretty obvious. I'm from Wisconsin and I'm a guide.

If fish are suspended in that 20 foot range, the best way is to track it on your locator. Get right over the fish, turn the sensitivity up on your locator and track your drop shot right down to them. If done right, you can actually watch the fish come up and hit your bait.

You probably won't need 7 rods then. Going through the prefishing process, you should have something dialed in before the tournament starts. Knowing that, you can probably limit yourself to 5. In a pinch, you can make a rod work for a technique for a day if you need to.

Are you fishing 1 or 2 day tourneys? Also, do you draw partners or do you stay with the same one?

I don't use them all that often, but smallies seem to like them.

It's up to you whether or not you want to take on the challenge of a baitcaster. You can get away with only using spinning reels. Some people will say you can't, but you can. I used to do it and quite a few people I know still do. I think baitcasters are a little more efficient, have a little more power, and better accuracy. That being said they take more of a learning curve. I would recommend getting a spinning reel and a baitcaster. Bfl3p's advice is good. That gear is not the top of the line, but it's decent and you won't just be buying junk. As far as what to throw on each, use the spinning reel for smaller lighter baits and the baitcaster for the heavier stuff.

And you would be disqualified! The rig is not allowed in the Elite series. I'd be throwing a rattle bait, jerkbait, and a spinnerbait.

I really like Berkley Trilene 100% Fluorocarbon. It stays limp, casts well, and is very abrasion resistant.

Either right in the middle or slightly or put it close to the center on the step

I know a few guys that use nothing but spinning gear. There's nothing wrong with it, but I think it's used more for finesse applications due to the fact that it handles lighter line better and casts lighter baits easier. It wasn't until recently that ML casting rods and bait casters geared towards finesse fishing weren't available. Personally I think bait casters are right at home throwing normal to heavier baits because you have more control over your accuracy. Also, I feel you have better control over a fish to and much more power than most spinning reels. Those rods you have would be good for worm or jig fishing or even spinnerbaits, medium sized swimbaits, etc.

Do you have to? No absolutely not. I always do though because I'd rather not spend the money constantly replacing something that I will not use. If I get a new reel and I'm going to spool it with fluorocarbon, I might even spool it all the first time with fluoro, but when I replace the line I'll leave some on as backing so it doesn't take as much line to fill.

It something totally up to you. Honestly I don't really think it matters. I fish out of glass boats that do the same thing as well as have a polished stainless prop that I'm sure shines in the sun too and I don't think it makes a difference. If you think it does, then don't polish the aluminum on your build or paint it a flat color so it doesn't reflect at all.

I'd either go get a round coupler instead, or weld some quarter inch plate toe the pipe to fill the gap and add some support.

Froggin is always rewarding! The worst is when that crap totally packs your guide so tight that your line totally stops

Cotton wood trees are the devil!

In rivers they will move a ways. I'd try to find the nearest hard bottom though.