bigturtle

I don't do a lot of mid depth (5-10ft) cranking, as mostly my crankbaits are super shallow squarebills or wakebaits. The only mid running cranks I throw are the yo zuri 3DB cranks, Rapala crankin/shad rap, live target pumpkinseed, and bomber fat free shad. If im fishing submerged grass, I use the live target pumpkinseed and rapala crankin rap. If im fishing open water, i use them all. If I had to choose one, I think I would choose the live target pumpkinseed, with rapala crankin rap at very close 2nd choice, mainly because in my waters, bluegill baits produce very very well.

I have tried quite a few frogs including: Booyah (normal and popping) Spro (normal, popping, and shad) Deps Basirisky Evergreen Kicker frog Nories F60 Snagproof (bass kicker, bobbys perfect, ish's phat non-popping version) Livetarget River2sea (BullyWa and SpittinWa) Of those, I like the Deps and Evergreen frogs the best, due to their single hook, but use the Booyah the most because of the cheap price.

Look at the total price when you check out, even though the shipping price is displayed, its not included.

have you tried other forms of creature baits, like lizards or brush hog type baits with a lot of appendages? if the water is dirty, maybe a bigger profile plastic may work just as well as a craw.

"Ceramic" is a very generalized term, and covers a very wide range of materials. Other than Daiwa's TWS reels, which are coated with either titanium (Japanese model) or some other metal (US model), im pretty sure all other high end reels use some form of ceramic in their line guide. This is true for high end rods as well. Other than recoil guides, all other guides are made with some light weight frame (titanium, carbon fiber, etc) and ceramic insert. for only $50, your best bet is a used reel.

Ceramic is preferred in most cases because titanium is softer and more likely to fail, but this depends on the type of ceramic. Because they are made cheap, so they sell cheap. I had a silvermax when they came out a few years ago, and used it for a year or so, and at the time it was a borderline "ok" reel. The little flipping switch broke within a a month or 2, which wasnt a problem because i never used that thing. The rest of the reel slowly became rough, noisy and grindy. I sent it for repair once, and repaired it myself once, and after that, i decided that the repair costs were not worth it and sold it for $10. If I were to use a $50 reel again, I think I would rather try a Daiwa Laguna baitcaster over any BPS brand. Other than that, I think I just wouldnt use a baitcaster at all, since the ones at that price point tend to not be up to my standards.

I have the J braid in 40lb, used it a few times before winter, and will be testing it more upcoming spring. I knew about the excessive bleeding problem from a friend, and soaked the entire spool in warm water for an hour before spooling on. I picked the chartreuse line, and even after the bleeding, the line is still very easy to see in low light conditions. I have not yet experienced any sort of break-off from any braid that I have used, including J braid. I threw some 1.5oz swimbaits on it, with a 7ft mono leader, and so far handles it pretty well. It doesnt seem to cast any further than my PP original or my sunline FX2, but it is a lot less noisy. In regards to snap-offs/break-offs, I have heard of someone, at some point, experiencing a break-off from every brand of braid I bought, be it from reviews, forums or otherwise. I have yet to hear of any excessive amounts of break-off from any specific braid, so I dont really pay much attention to them. One other thing I have noticed is that Japanese lines tend to snap very close to their rating, whereas majority of US lines snaps at a much higher rating.

Not all yum baits are salted, in fact, most are not. They are all scented in some way, just not all with salt. Most yum baits are fairly buoyant. The ones that I use most often: dinger: probably salted sharpshooter: no ribbon tail worm: old ones yes, new ones no tube: heavily salted christie craw/critter: no swurm: no breaking shad: no chunk: no

https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/catpage-MEGBRODS.html?from=basres 7'11" Leviathan, throws up to 6oz. $199

ya, that probably make more sense, comes with "internal" hardware or you get the hardware yourself, hence the "external"

Before we get into brands and models, why don't you tell us what kind of lures you fish, types of cover you fish(lots of grass? lily pads? stumps? trees? rocks? a little bit of everything?), and what you currently use in terms of rod and reel? it'l be very helpful in getting you an appropriate rod. Also, is this a baitcast rod or a spinning rod?

I fully spool my reels with braid. old braid on the bottom, new braid on top. I use a few SV spools from Daiwa, and their line capacity is slightly lower that most US spools. I fish a lot of pike and salmon with my reels so i need the extra line. If you are onyl bass fishing, I think 60 yards on braid is more than enough.

I think internal means weedless, probably with an EWG style swimabit hook, and external means an exposed hook on a jig head

Iv used both the swim senko and swim dinger, and I prefer the dinger, because its more durable and lighter, so i can fish it higher and slower than the senko. I mainly fish very weedy waters so i need things that stay higher up on the water. Iv used it as a trailer for small swim jigs and it works pretty good as well.

how many is "clearing out"?

why not my backyard isnt that big

I use 15lb fluoro or 20lb mono depending on where im fishing

I use a 3/16 oz tungsten bullet weight, a bobber stop, and a 3/0 hook with random plastics. I keep the distance between the weight and my hook around 1ft for better casting distance, no swivel, 10lb fluoro.

cool, can you please teach me how to do that? I don't want to tie my iPhone and dipping it every time i want to measure something For other people who are interested, if you are familiar with your lake/pond, and can accurately pinpoint where you stand and where your cast land, you can use Google Earth to measure casting distance, assuming the measurements are accurate, which i think they are, at least more accurate than strides lol.

you walk on water? your strides are more accurate than google, lol.

In google earth, the desktop version, there is a distance measurement tool. Try it.

How are you guys getting such low casting distance? I average 50-55yds with a 5/8oz lure on a 7"MH baitcast rod, even my 5'6" spinning rod can cast 35 yards easily, unless google earth is not accurate with distance.

Looks like i was wrong

I could be wrong, but pretty sure no such reel exist. Closest to that would be a Daiwa Steez, at $500+

you need to measure your own spinnerbaits because different brands have different sizes. If you make it according to someone else's specs, you may regret it later.