FryDog62

I'll be the odd-ball here and add that I use Sniper 7 lb as a main line for finesse and a lot of times as a leader tied to braid. I previously used Invizx as a main line, but did a stretch test and found Sniper to stretch a little less which helps on deep water hook-sets. As leader material, either brand would be fine...

Good post... Primary goal over the offseason is to get elbow tendinitis cured! Second goal will be to break 6 lbs in either the smallmouth (current PB is 5 lbs 12 oz) or largemouth (current is 5 lb 15 oz) categories.

I think the Steez SV TW and Phenix Feather 7-1 MLF would work very well for wacky rigging and skipping. The Phenix and Loomis are very similar in terms of power even though they are rated ML and Medium. The primary difference is the taper being fast on the Phenix and XF on the NRX. Actually I think the Phenix may load slightly better with a weightless worm, the same I prefer when trying to get distance when throwing a light Ned rig. Here are my line/hook set ups: NRX/Steez for wacky. VMC Neko hook "weedless" Size 1, not to be confused with 1/0 (best roof-of-the-mouth hooking rig I've ever used - and keeps them pinned!). I use high viz braid with a fluorocarbon leader. Okay, I push the boundaries on the line diameter of braid to use on a bait caster. Most say don't go below 30 lb or you risk "burying" the braid in the spool. Maybe, but for finesse (and better distance skipping weightless) I use 20 lb braid and I've had very little problem with burying. Just make sure you pull out some line and make sure its free and clear after a snag (or hopefully a big fish). I use Sufix 832 high viz 20 lb and any 8 lb flouro leader for just wacky worming. If I'm around dock posts, overhangs, my leader is 8 lb Yo-Zuri Hybrid (thicker than flouro but tough as nails against abrasion, awesome knot holding too). Phenix MLF or MHXF/Alpha for Neko rigging. Size 2 (not 2/0) VMC weedless Neko hook. I use straight fluorocarbon - 10 lb Berkely Vanish TRANSITION Fluorocarbon. Invisible underwater and some color above to detect bites on the way down, which happens a lot. Phenix Feather 7-1 MLF/Alpha for drop-shot: VMC "Spin-shot" Neko hook size 4. Sunline Sniper fluorocarbon 7 lb test. Plan to use this rod/line set up for spy baits this coming year too. Majorcraft Iovino/Alpha for Ned: 20 lb Sufix 832 High-viz + 7 lb Sniper fluorocarbon. Since these rigs are so light and I like to experiment, I may try a "sinking braid" next season to see if it helps keep the lighter Ned rigs down in deeper water: YGK G-Soul SS112 Yellow 20 lb. We'll see... may try this braid on the wacky rig too. Tat Ehrler/Tat SV TW for 5 inch Caffeine Shads - Sunline Sniper 14 pound test with - and this is key - 4/0 Owner Twistlock Light 3/32 oz weighted hook. Swims horizontally on its own, changes direction, dying action unbeatable. Skips even better than wacky worms. #1 fish catcher for me the last 2 years. Any other Q's - feel free to send me a PM. Thx

Any word if KVD is designing a new jerk bait rod for Lew’s, or will he use one of their existing models? Don’t see anything in the current lineup similar to what he used at Quantum.

I think there are a lot of high quality, powerful rods like the Powell mentioned above, or other 7 1/2 foot Heavy power rods like Phenix, Daiwa, ALX that weigh 3.5 to 4 ounces. As a comparison, the St. Croix Mojo 7’4” Heavy weighs in at a hefty 5.3 ounces. On a long day on the water that is a lot of extra work and quite fatiguing.

I agree with it may be overfilled, I leave at least 1/8 inch... a little more might help. KVD line conditioner helps too... With new line, or when my reels haven’t been used in a while, I will also pre-stretch the fluorocarbon. Hook it to a tree and move back approx normal casting distance. Pull the line reasonably tight and hold 1-2 minutes. Reel back in and apply Line conditioner. Don’t have to do this every time but it definitely helps “train” the line. Lastly, if you are new to using fluorocarbon, you can use some electrician’s tape to lessen the “mishaps” until you get better. Again, let out normal casting distance, then go back another 5-10 yards, and put a small piece of the tape on the remaining spool. That way if you do birds nest, it won’t unravel the entire spool and minimizes the picking out process ?

Ok, I’ve been through a 3 year process to get where you are... Hope I can help... I finesse fish a lot and always used spinning gear until a wrist injury and 3 surgeries required me to switch and fish 100% now with a baitcaster. I’ve tried a ton of things to get the right gear but I think I’m close. First the reel, I think you’re completely on the right track to use the Daiwa SV reels. The Tatula and Zillion SV TW reels are very nice but I think are best with a little weight - I’d say 3/16 (plus the plastic) and heavier. I wouldn’t recommend those reels for a 1/8 Ned rig or skipping a weightless wacky worm. Believe me I tried and it worked intermittently but not consistently. The best reel for super light stuff is a Steez SV TW. Yep, expensive but it’s the gold standard. I can skip a weightless wacky worm 99% as well as any spinning outfit once dialed in. If the Steez is too expensive, then I recommend a Daiwa Alpha CT SV which is priced right in between the Tatula and Zillion (approx $250, check out Digitaka site). It does not have a T-Wing but I haven’t found it to be a problem. I use this to cast 1/8 Neds and to drop-shot. Heckuva reel. To do finesse with a baitcaster well requires the ability to palm/maneuver the reel easily. The Steez and Alpha are smaller and much easier to “work the lure” than the bulkier Tatula, and even the Zillion. Regarding rods - yes, another long process but dialed in now. The one rig I struggled most with was to skip weightless wacky worms. The Steez helped tremendously but I started out using a 6’8” Medium Extra Fast. I didn’t backlash any more but lacked distance. So I now use one of two 7’1” rods - a Loomis NRX MXF 852 and a Phenix Feather Medium-Light Fast... and now get the added distance a spinning rod does. Two different price points, both excellent rods. Here are my finesse baitcasting set ups: •NRX 852/Steez SV TW for weightless wacky worm fishing and skipping. (Phenix 7-1 ML would work well too) •Alpha SV with either Phenix Feather 7-1 MLF or 7-1 MHXF for Neko rigging or tubes depending on how heavy surrounding cover is •Alpha SV on Phenix 7-1 MLF for drop-shot •Alpha SV on 6’10” MajorCraft Don Iovino MXF for Ned Rigs. Great when a shorter rod is desired, closer to a Medium-Light. •Tatula SV TW on a Tatula Elite Ehrler 7’0” M-MH XF for Caffeine Shads (very heavy plastic) on Owner Twistlock Light 3/32 oz weighted hooks You mentioned the Tatula Ehrler in your original post but it is a Medium-Medium Heavy extra fast and might work ok for weightless stuff but is probably a bit too powerful/stiff IMO. I don’t have the Feider rod, but am not sure that’s the right taper for what you want to do.

Sounds like you need something rated to 2 oz. I would consider the Dobyns mentioned above, Tatula or this: Genesis II Casting Rod 7'5" Fred's Magic Stick Show Information Taper Line Wt. Lure Wt. Guides Handle Type Handle Length Stock Price Qty Fast 50-70lb Braid 1/2-2oz 9+Tip Genesis II Cast B 16-1/2" In Stock: 5+ $149.99 Read the reviews on Magic Stick, they are excellent. Not a fan of the St. Croixs that size, very heavy cumbersome rods, and tip heavy IMO. Read the specs, or put them on a scale and they weigh 1-2 oz more than other similar rod manufacturers.

At the $150 price point I would recommend Daiwa Tatula or Phenix Feather. Fantastic rods - light, crisp, versatile. St. Croix makes a quality rod but I would only recommend Medium Light or Medium. They get heavy and poorly balanced above that IMO. I fished them exclusively for 20 years, but after reluctantly trying some other brands I sold all my MH and H AvidX and LTB’s. I still have and like my 7’1” Medium Fast Mojo.

No PB’s this year for me, but I take pride in having “guided” 5 people to theirs. Biggest was the bottom photo caught by my wife who hadn’t fished in 3 decades (5.4 lbs):

Is there an environmental or natural explanation to the smb population being down on that stretch of river? You may deal with tidal issues that we don’t in the Midwest...

Being next door in Minnesota we had the high water too... overall it was a bit of a down year because of the conditions but there were some definite high spots. Down for me this year was topwater, especially on the rivers because of the strong current. Crankbaits were hit and miss. Best lures were Chatterbaits as a search bait. Smallies seemed to be scattered for much of the year but the Breaking Bream color with a Bull Frog Ultra Vibe Speed Craw trailer worked well on both lakes and rivers. A Biwaa Armored Craw on a Ned Head worked well in rivers. As always the Caffeine Shad with Owner Twistlock Light 3/32 oz was lights out at times. Best day was an hour and a half trip to a local river to test my Ultrex cable repair. Didn’t even know if I’d have time to fish. Thankfully the motor held great and I decided to skip the Biwaa up under several overhangs. It was mid-June and just going to post spawn phase... shoulda stayed all day!

Thanks. Interesting, as I heard outside of the breakage issue people really liked the blank. Hopefully they can capture it somehow but with the right strength.

To clarify, those prices are for the lot only so excluding home price? Wondering if there are townhomes there that are less expensive than a single family house, but also have a garage for boat storage and nearby access to water?

My bias: Yes to Majorcraft, ALX ZOLO and Daiwa Tatula, Kistler (if you can get on sale in your price range) No towards: St. Croix (tend to be tip heavy, but not as bad if you stay M or ML), and Dobyns (well balanced, but many reviews will tell you they don't have the sensitivity of other comparable brands).

I think there will be subtle/gradual adjustments but they really need to get away from the small fish format. IMO, If a good angler is catching 20 pound and a halfers, they are doing something wrong and need to adjust.

Wondering if anyone has heard when the new Levante rods (that were re-called) will be re-released?

My jerkbait rod is medium power with a moderate-fast action... I also use it to throw an Arashi Cover Pop, walking-style topwater lure. Since it’s a moderate-fast action rod, I use 30lb braid on this set up and tie a fluoro leader when using for jerk baits. I will snip the leader off and use only braid if for topwater only. Occasionally I will keep the stiffer leader 12-15 inches long to prevent the braid getting caught in the trebles of the topwater when casting on windy days, but any longer leader than that the fluorocarbon will drag the lure down. If my rod were extra fast action I would ditch the braid and fluorocarbon lines and only use a low-stretch, neutrally buoyant line for both applications - either Yo-Zuri Hybrid or Sufix Advance.

I absolutely love my ALX Zolo Dragger for Carolina rigs, and dragging Jointed Structure Heads along the bottom. I’m a former St. Croix fan-boy and still have a couple Mediums and Medium-Light rods. They manufacture a quality rod. But when you get into their MH and Heavy rods they are heavy, thick, tip-heavy, etc. Similar priced rods in ALX, Kistler, Orochi, Daiwa.... I find lighter, better balanced and just as powerful. But the Dragger is an excellent CR rod. If you need something even heavier than that check out the Brawler. Both rods weigh quite a bit less than the St. Croix options..

I think I’ll most likely stop using a Toadrunner and Tokyo-Rig this coming year. The Toadrunner goes through slop where the Whopper Plopper can’t, but to spin/plop optimally I think it just goes “too fast in traffic” to either get strikes or a good hookup percentage. I have better luck moving a Cavitron Buzzbait at slower speeds in weeds or I’ll even throw a Cover Pop if there’s a small area of open water between the weed beds. As far as the Tokyo-Rig goes, I think it’s a good concept but gets hung up more than a traditional jig or Texas Rig when flipping. And as far as bottom-dragging it long distances across the flats, I think other lures do a better job of this without all the dangling hardware below. I’ll stick with a Jointed Structure Head jig, Biffle Bug or Dark Sleeper for grinding long distances on the bottom..

So after a little over a year, here are my impressions of using rods for those long expansive flats - and dragging various heavier lures along the bottom: For throwing Dark Sleepers long distance, and great sensitivity across the bottom - I'm using exclusively the MH Orochi Braillist. All sizes including the 1 ounce DS which is the max weight for this rod. I usually throw a 3/4 oz but have had no problems with the 1 ounce. I think the fast tip is certainly more forgiving than the Perfect Pitch that I snapped when casting a 1 oz jig + trailer. The PP is XF and overloaded the tip which led to the breakage. The ALX Dragger is also a great rod - Heavy/Fast and can handle heavier lures than the Braillist. Drags the weightier lures well across the bottom, light and sensitive for a rod of this heft. I mostly used it to throw 3/4 oz Jointed Structure Heads + trailer, but some 1 ounce jigs/trailers too. I plan to get some 1.25 ounce Jackhammers next year to get the chatterbaits way down deep when the fish scatter on the flats. This will be the ultimate test for this rod but I have confidence it will perform well.

Mr. “Knot Wars” creator, Steve Pennaz, 25 years of North American Fishing magazine and show, Lake Commandos, and recent Freshwater Hall of Fame inductee - from Minnesota.

I echo the Minnesota snot-rockets... I lost plastics of every variety to them, if I had to count I’m sure it’s 100+ Senkos, Neko worms, neds, craws...

Awesome, so did the jerk bait cost more than the Costa’s?? Haha, Megabass Visions cost a pretty penny!

Zodias, iRod Stone Cold, ALX, Dobyns Sierra. No to St. Croix - line up in MH is tip heavy, poorly balanced IMO.