wnspain

This is true, no dispute whatsoever, but the OP stated he wanted a "voltmeter to check the charge left in the battery so that I can charge it properly". Determining the condition of the battery requires a bit more than a simple volt meter.

I understand the want to ascertain the state of charge, but with most new battery chargers, detection circuitry is designed in. When I get through using mine (battery), I hook it up to the charger and it lets me know I have it connected right, the battery is charging, and when it is fully charged. All for around $30.

Last year (March), and although he doesn't complain about it, he always says he could use more room (true with any 16 footer). Not any problems that would be the fault of the OEM - either boat or motor. Sounds like you've already decided against it - wise move IMO.

10" Mann's Jellyworm, or 12", or 8"

I have the Pelican 10e and enjoy it very much but there's no way in hell I would lay down 2 G's for the Predator. $1000 I would seriously consider...

Just for comparison, my son bought a 98 Glasstream 16' for $2850 located in the Birmingham area. His has 70H Evinrude and seemed to be in a little better shape. FWIW. I think the price should be around $2500 IF you dont find any major problems.

I own plenty of St. Croix, all good rods IMO, but the Cumara is a quality rod also...very sensitive!

Good tip! To fool them edumacated fish, develop your own code to fool them. ( e.g. 1=9 2=8 3=7 4=6 5=0) That way the fish read it, think "I'm at 12 and this says 98, must be stupid bait" a wahla FISH ON

Didn't realize the new Ford F-150 would help me organize my crankbaits

All you can do is try. Just tell them the truth, they'll usually try to find a way to help you out. That's been my experience with their customer service anyways. It may end up costing you S&H, but they should stand behind their product.

Tubed for more years than I care to share. Great way to fish and provides plenty of opportunity to learn the finer points of fishing slow. As for boats, the U-tube design is easier to get in and out of. There are plenty of accessories to support your every need (e.g. rod holders, fish finders, extra tackle storage, etc.). If snakes are a problem, cabelas makes 1000 denier chest waders that are darn near as tough as snake boots.

Thee Jeff Allesi of laser gate fame? Sorry, not trying to inject any non-fishing flavors here. Did you get it used or buy new? Abu has a 1 year warranty on their reels. The Premier models are good equipment, I'd contact them.

Caught more fish on a fluke than anything else, but becoming a real fan of the chatter-bait. Scum frog is a blast!

Yep, that looks like risky business to me !!

Life time dirt rider here, will not throw my leg over one without my lid. Have never owned a street bike, way too many bumpers out there that I have no desire to kiss, helmet or not.

I'm have no doubt that what you're saying is accurate. Cold water is a killer, but you guys live in that type of climate. Us southern dudes don't, but are by no means completely safe on the water. Anyways, I never said that my choice for not wearing a PFD is because I've not known anybody who needed one, fact is I do wear one when going over trolling motor speeds. I never have found one that is very comfortable is the main reason I don't wear it all the time. I know plenty of parents that swear it is a mortal sin to let their child ride a bicycle without a helmet, yet we have a whole generation of baby boomers that survived that very circumstance. I'm not knocking anyone who wears a PFD, far from it. In some cases, I think it's reckless not to. I see your're a coastie, so I get it about water safety and PFDs. The philosophy is pounded into your head, and it left an deep impression. Fact is, when fishing close to the shore in shallow warm water, the risk is only slightly increased over stepping into a warm tub of water. I doubt any of you don a PFD in that situation. If you do, to each his own...

I don't wear one while fishing at trolling motor speeds, the majority of fishermen don't, at least the ones that I know. I do wear one when while under power of the main. I've not known one of my fishing buddies to ever require one while on the water, but they're a nice safeguard just in case you do. BTW...I disagree with the analogy that it's like jumping out of a plane without a parachute...I've jumped plenty and it's not the fall that will kill ya, it's the sudden stop at the end. No such animal while at trolling motor speeds on the water, unless some numbnuts tries to run you over. Not so sure a PFD is going to do you much good in that situation unless you are knocked into the water unconscious

I believe your rod is designed for baits 1/4 to 3/4 oz. When new to bait casting, most find it easier to learn control with a bait near the middle of that recommended weight range. Try to ensure that your setup is adjusted properly, and that your cast is smooth and fluid. Most that are transitioning from spinning rigs tend to overload the rod by snapping the rod forward too quickly. Like others have said, you can throw almost anything with your new rig, it's just that rod characteristics favor one technique over another but casting the lure should not be affected too much. Light finesse baits favor spinning equipment, but once you get comfortable you can throw those also. I've not used a clarus MH/F so I can't speak for the stiffness of that particular rod but if you find that the rod isn't loading properly, increase the weight of the bait. Good luck and enjoy your new rig!

As you increase in size, capability - the price increases too. One of the most capable units I've found is the Lowrance Elite 4 HDI, can be had fairly cheap. One package even comes w/Lake Insight Pro if charting appeals to you.

Do you have a unit with DSI? Thanks for the link

Nice Raider btw Care to share where you found the trailerable cover for your 10e??

OK, so I have a question. Prepared to pick up a 10e soon and have read this thread front to back. A lot of good stuff in here. My question is the transducer mounted on the TM. Does it affect the image you see on your unit? I've researched this and there seems to be differing opinions. To me it's logical that it would, especially with DSI. Regular 2D imaging perhaps not so much, but DSI is very directional and sweeps a narrow thin path to provide increased resolution. When you change the direction of that sweep (changing the position/direction of the TM), you also change the orientation of what is seen on the screen. The "expert" at bass pro made a pretty convincing case, anyone have any experience or tech facts to refute that? Thanks in advance...

I'm not suggesting that he cheated either. I'm just simply stating that whatever the rule modification ends up being...it has to be enforceable. Otherwise, it has no value.

Regardless of the ethical aspect of the subject, how would you suggest it be modified, and then how are you going to enforce it? Anyone who really wants to seed his favorite area can hire any joe schmo to drop XXX at Lat xxx Lon xxx.

OP, like NJB said, most will recommend a mh/f as it is a good all around rod that performs well using a variety of techniques. I personally would get something in the $100 - 150 price range as there are several at that price point that are outstanding e.g. AG Veritas, Duckett Ghost, BPS Carbonlite, St. C Rage - the list goes on and on. For a reel, don't cheap out there either. You can find a good used AG Revo on ebay for sometimes as low as $55 or so. Buy as much quality as you can afford, but don't go overboard on your first outfit.