links_man2

I have been using a H2O for fishing for over a year and it selves my purpose well. Nice thing about it versus other brands is you can download the Free Enhanced Lake maps from Lowrance. They don't cover all lakes and they are not as detailed as the Navionics and such, but they are better than paper maps blowing around.

Based on my experience and what I have read in the past, what ruins mono is: UV Light. Example: back window of your car. Florescent Light. Example: open bulk spools in stores. Heat. Example: car trunk or rafters in the garage. Age. Example: Beware spools of line on sale. While line that has been exposed to the above may seem ok, you may experience breakage when you want it the least. Why try and save a couple of bucks on line when your investment in the trip/fish are worth much more than that.

Been using Google Earth for a while. Great tool. I am lucky in that Sat photo's of my primary lake were taken when the lake was very low. These pictures explained why what I saw on sounder didn't match contour maps since much of the main part of the lake was dug out to get material to make the dam. Excavation left lots of pits and mounds that don't show on the older contour maps.

Appreciate the offer, but don't need it, mine is working fine.

Those reels come with only 2 bearings, the Anti-Reverse and a spool bearing on the right side. Left end of spool had a bushing. Previous owner must have swapped them out I guess----your good fortune again---lol.

fishfor---I have one of the CI-200's I picked up on eBay and really like it, especially the lower gear ratio. It makes a great deep crankbait reel, lots of power. I wouldn't change the gears. I did swap out the 2 spool bushings with some ABEC bearings I got from http://heartlandtackleservice.com/default.asp. Sure there are others and probably ReelMech that has them. The bearings made the reel as smooth as my new model Citica's, maybe even a little smoother.

Being the old f_rt that I am, let me say that 5:1 can do anything you want. I remember when 5:1 first came out and it really made burning spinner baits easy compared to my old Garcia 5000 that I think was 3.5 to 1. Granted I like the 5:1 older Citica I have for deep cranks, and my 6.2:1 Citica's for everything else I do including some cranks, but 5:1 can work for anything you need it to. It certainly does make running the deep cranks a lot easier since it has more "power". You got a great deal, enjoy it.

Had used the BPS XPS with good luck. Recently I got some Vicious based on others recommendations and so far I like it just as well as the BPS XPS as far as fishing. I like it much better than the BPS XPS as far as price since it is about half the price of the BPS XPS.

I have found them to not all be equal, after about 3-4 different brands/styles. I have finally settled on the Texas Tackle Split Ring Pliers being far and away better than any other pair I have had. I had seen them recommended by others on different forums and finally ordered some. They are a more expensive than some, but mine have been solid for the 16-18 months I have had them. You can find them at many tackle shops and online, just Google "Texas Tackle Split Ring Pliers". They run about $15.

The bait I had replaced was new and I hadn't even fished it. Not sure they will replace heavily used baits. Looks like on those, you got your moneys worth---LOL.

You can go to the Lowrance Web site and download an emulator for one of their GPS capable products. Then go to their Free Enhanced Lake Maps and download the lakes that you want to view over the emulator. They don't have all lakes and not the detail of a Navionics but it is FREE. Also, http://mapper.acme.com/ has some topo maps free online.

Have had good luck with the 100, 200 and 300 baits, but primarily fish the 300. Have also had times where the Deep Flat MAXX was what they wanted. Primary colors are Pearl-Black Back and Chart-Blue Back. In the past I always changed hooks, but have noticed lately they are coming with a better quality hook straight out of the box. Did have 1 bait a year ago that the paint chipped on it. Sent their cust svc a picture and they sent me 2 replacement baits --- good cust svc.

Try and someone that fishes more and see if you can tag along. READ, READ, READ. If you can afford it, go out with with guide.

Lots of good ideas. I haven't smoked in 20+ years, but think I may take it back up so I can quit then have lots of tackle money. Wonder if the wife will buy into my logic----SPLAT---thats the pan up the side of my head when I explain it to her.

Man was I lucky, I learned from my Dad starting with watching him clean and lube his old Shakespere President (I think). Reels were less complicated back then, no drag, no free spool---something you kids probably never knew----lol. I got broke in on MY Abassadeur 5000, it even had free spool and a drag. Still do these dang complicated reels and enjoy it, plus it keeps me busy in the winter. Best advice I have ever had on servicing a reel is lay out the parts in the order you take them off. Second best is like someone else said, have a schematic. Like crestliner, the fingers don't work as smooth any more. Been looking for a work table that has a sticky and magnetic top. That way when I drop that little part---usually a spring----it is stuck right there for me. If anyone see's such a table top let me know. Still searching for the spring from my Citica i dropped couple of weeks ago----work room in the garage isn't that big, I know it is in there some place. Luckily I had preordered a few spare hard to hold parts.

I have had good luck with BPS XPS Flourocarbon line 15# for cranks. Not too wirey and a decent price. I am going to try some of the Vicious Flourocarbon, been hearing lots of good reports on it.

My local lake is solid Salt Cedar with lots of water weeds growing in it. I use 3/8 weights pegged so the weight and bait stay together and get down in the cover.

I knew Reelmech would jump in and save the day as always.

If you can, find a schematic for the reel. The thing that goes back and forth that the line goes through is called a "Line Guide". There is a piece called a "PAWL" that is inside the cap that unscrews on the "Line Guide". The "PAWL" fits in the groove on the "Worm Gear". The "Worm Gear" runs from side to side on the reel and it has grooves that go around it in a spiral. When you crank the handle it drives the Worm Gear and the PAWL causes the Line Guide to go back and forth. MY "guess" is that the Pawl has broken/worn until it does not seat well in the worm gear groove causing the line guide to stick in 1 spot. If that isn't it, guess it might be time for Reel Mech if he works on that brand. Or back to the factory which if still in warranty, that might be where I started or try taking it back where you bought it. Some stores have very generous return/exchange policies

Empty bag only no boxes come with it, but still for $7.95, it isn't a bad deal---IF you need another bag.

I use to have elbow pain when I golfed. The straps took care of the pain during golfing, if I remembered them. Finally had some shoulder problems and the doc gave me some exercises to do with light 2-3 lb dumbells. The exercises cured my shoulder pain AND my elbow pain. Now I fish 3-4 days a week and golf 4-5 days with no pain. Here is a link to some exercises that help tennis/golfers elbow. They are different than what I did, but the main thing is to exercise and strengthen the muscles. You might Google it for more exercises/info. http://www.orthopaedicassociates.com/images/golf.pdf

Think I know where she is gonna stick that rod & reel. ;D

Been using the Uni-Knot for 30+ years---works good for me and easy to tie.

Check above post, it covers what to oil/grease. http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1193429613 Be sure and clean all the parts good before lubing it. You might also want to search the web, there are some sites that give you a good overview of how to breakdown, clean and lube a reel. You probably want to get a schematic of your reel so you can see where the parts go in case you have trouble. Best thing you could do is find someone that has experience and watch them clean and lube a reel. Second best would be to get a video on how to do it---I know Lake Fork Tackle Repair has a video and many schematics on their web site. There are lots of small parts like clips, springs, etc that like to fly off every place nut in your hand. I believe Schimano also has an overview on their web site on how to break a reel down, clean and lube it. If all else fails, send them to Reel Mechanic who post on here. His prices certainly seem reasonable and you know they will be working when you get them back.

Just be sure and not leave the bulk spools in the light or where there is high heat. I keep mine in the box in a closet inside the house.