sacnho

My boat has a floor and carpet and is full of foam floatation so getting to the backside to apply a nut or install a standard boat rivet is not an option at this time. I talked to a welding shop some time ago and they were concerned with igniting the foam.

I have a screw in the bottom of my boat that replaced a lost rivet many years ago that is going to have to be replaced as it is leaking. It held up for a long time but I am considering going back with a blind closed end aluminum rivet sealed with 3m 5200 before the rivet is applied then covering rivet with some sort of 2 part epoxy or the like to seal the outside. The rivets I am finding around here are aluminum with steel mandrels which is why I am thinking I should epoxy outside as well. Any thoughts on repairing this way or would I be better of going back with a screw and sealer? Any other ideas are also certainly welcome. Thanks

Finally found source of a leak I have been trying to track down for a while now. Turns out the livewell pump had a crack in the threaded part that goes thru the hull. I am gonna buy a new livewell pump and I am thinking about replaceing the bilge pump as well since the boat is almost 20 years old and both pumps are original. The wood in the transom appears to be ok but it did get wet. The boat is aluminum. Should I use 3m 5200 to seal the thru hull fitting or would I be ok with a silicone based sealer? Thanks in advance

I was in walmart the other day and noticed in sporting goods that they were carrying a 50 amp circuit breaker. The price was under $10. You might want to check your local walmart.

Went looking at a new trailer for my boat today. I looked at a ez loader aluminum trailer with oil bath hubs. I dont know much about the oil bath hubs and wanted to get opinions on these from some of you that have them. Thanks

Looking for led replacements for bow and stern lights. My bow light bulb has the number 90 on it and the stern has 1004 marked on it. Wondering if anyone here has done it and if so which leds did you go with (and where you got them) I assume the best color is white? Thanks

Just noticed today that both of my trailer tires are wearing uneven. The wear is on the inside of both. They are both bias ply. When I had these put on I was told to run them at 50lbs of pressure which I have. Any advice on steps I need to take to remedy this?

One thing I added to my boat was a quick fill battery system. It is a little pricey I think but it sure does make things easier on me. I keep my batteries fully charged and ready to go at all times. I use a little device called a battery minder I picked up from northern tool (advice I picked up from this board) to keep them maintained. battery minder link '>http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200332201_200332201 flow rite link http://www.flow-rite.com/battery-watering/qwik-fill

The rubber bushing are isolators and have a nut that is built in to them on the bottom. They fasten by installing a bolt so the bottom of the isolator compresses and spreads out to hold. It is not uncommon to have to drill or cut these off to get old ones out. It is possible that the terrova will have a different mounting pattern than your motorguide. Isolators are available from just about any marine dealer that sells trolling motors. You may have to come up with some sort of adapter plate if you want to use your existing holes.

What you are describing sounds like isolators http://www.motorguide.com/store/accessory/mounting/mounting-isolators There is a nut at the bottom of these that allows the bolt to catch and the rubber is compressed to hold the mount on. Normally you just unscrew the bolts but they could be seized. Maybe try spraying with some sort of penetrant. You may have to cut them with a dremel or some sort of power tool.

Since you mentioned wanting more thrust, if your original motor is a 12 volt you might want to consider stepping up to a 24 volt. I have never heard anyone complain about having too much thrust and a 24 volt motor will give you plenty of thrust while being efficient.

MK edge trolling motors are cable steer and v2 refers to a electric steer motor. Both types are good. I prefer cable steer motors but thats because of the type fishing I do. Here is a link to help you with shaft length selection http://www.minnkotamotors.com/shaft_length_selection.aspx?__taxonomyid=854

I should have given a few more details originally. I was not going to put anything larger than the called for 3 amp fuse. The 2 units I have are a Eagle 642 and a Eagle 320. According to a Eagle customer service rep the 642 uses 900 milli amps at most and the 320 uses 750 milli amps at most. I know that it is a simple matter and it is cheap insurance to put a fuse to each unit and that is probably what I am going to end up doing. Just curious as to if it is ever done with one fuse as long as both units are not over or under fused. Fishing Rhino thanks for the heads up on the mini spade links. I did not know about those.

Installing a dedicated 18 amp hr battery for 2 depthfinders. Would it be OK to use one fuse for both positive leads? Thanks

Are you talking about the pedal laying flat on the deck of the boat? The material covering the cables coming out of the head and going to the foot pedal tends to be a little stiff when the motor is new. Try to make sure the cables are straight and set pedal where you want it. It may take couple of times using for it to become limber enough for the foot pedal to set flat. Hope this helps

pm sent

Jon1970 did you find them on the bass pro site? If so can you post a link to them or maybe a part number? Thanks

I really love minn kota trolling motors. I have owned a couple of them and they have performed great. My only suggestion would be to consider a 24 volt motor if you can. The edge 55 is a 5 speed 12 volt and will drain a battery quick on a windy day. I run a maxxum 70 on a 16 foot aluminum. It has plenty of power and it is very efficient.

Upgraded to a MK 24v trolling motor and my eagle 320 and 642c fishfinders. Also added some diamond plate to my trailer that keeps my feet dry when loading my boat.

Once the pleasure boaters and jet skis come out I dont think anyone is safe on SML That size boat will be fine in the creeks and upper stretch of the Roanoke River. Check out the state ramp at Bay Roc.

After looking at this post I decided to go to my local Gander Mountain and see if they had any trolling motors on sale. As it turns out they had a Minnkota Maxxum 70 that was normally $799 on clearance for just a little over $500. Not as good a deal as a the Fortrex 80 for $750 but I had been wanting the minnkota with the maximizer feature so I pulled the trigger on it. Cant wait till spring!

I ordered parts for my windshield. I took my windshield off of my boat one time and lost a couple of the little washers that go under the screws. These were not just the standard old washer that you find at a hardware store. There was a sticker on my original windshield with their phone number on it. I called them and they were very helpful. C & O marine the place that Way2slow mentioned is a very good place to deal with as well. I ordered a Yamaha 9.9 4 stroke outboard from C & O and had a very good experience with them.

I have ordered from custom mold and tint before and found that they were good people to deal with http://getaboatwindshield.com/home

Looking at a eagle 642c color internal gps / fishfinder as an upgrade to my current lowrance x125 which is monochrome and a fishfinder only. Anybody own one of these units? How do you like it? Any info appreciated.

I would like to install a main battery on off switch on my boat. I have a couple of positive wires that have in line fuses installed in them along with the positive starter cable which has no in line fuse. Can I simply run all of the positive wires to the switch and then run one heavy gauge wire to the positive battery terminal. Or would it be better to splice all fused connections and keep the fuses close to the battery terminal. Thanks