MickD

Rainshadow IP843, Seven foot, ML power, MF action, perfect for snapping swim baits (3.5-4") off the bottom, slow rolling them, drop shot, Ned, small cranks. About everything light exc tubes, although my son likes his for that, too. I like a little more power in my tube rod. Many on this forum have commented really positively on the St Croix SCV ML, F as a favorite of theirs. I expect this rod is a lot like the St Croix, which I have not built yet.

I only buy fuel from what I think are high volume stations thinking that they will be less likely to have water in the fuel than a little mom and pop store. I think if you can avoid the water you'll be avoiding the problems.

My favorite braid is Hitena Pure Line, very small diameter for its pound test, never any problems of any kind. A little pricey but lasts and lasts (also can have its life extended by reversing it). I use 21 pound test, which casts like other 15's I've tried. I first bought it for a fool-proof bonefish line that would be strong enough yet small enough to allow a lot on the reel. Perfect. I use Hitena fly tippet for the leader, seems to have fine knot strength. Smooth is not a priority of mine, but I don't remember noise from it.

the base is welded to the trailer, but it has to pivot, which means that the pivoting parts can be disassembled. Another bolt-on jack can be bolted to the trailer right next to the base, can't it? Worst case, the base can be cut off. Let us know how it goes, sorry for your string of bad luck.

I'm no expert on this material, but it does look to me like a rub from a fender or other part of a trailer. If you look closely you should see a lot of little short scratches that indicate slight movement when in contact with something that's not moving. Looking a second time at the photo it appears that the "scratches" are actually "gouges," and in that case it would be somewhat structural since the base material looks to be damaged. If it is a strike like from hitting a dock hard you should see a single long track of the object that did the damage. in that case I would think there could be structural damage. In both cases if the base material is damaged, it's more than cosmetic. However, most likely this boat has been fished since the damage occurred. If this is the case it most likely is cosmetic. Ask the seller when it happened. Take it to a Stratos dealer for their assessment.

The model number on plastics would be handy for a search function since the name shown on vendors' listings don't always match the names on the package. "Watermelon candy green pumpkin" might be shown as "Watermelon candy red laminate." I just went through something like this where I couldn't match the Strike King name on their site with a vendor offering name. But it was there when I got the name thing sorted out.

I don't think any of us can fix this. BUT, maybe TW could. Ask TW.

If it's been working ok before and just started malfing then most likely the mechanism is not going into its open position and all it needs is a little lube (not on the ball, but on the mechanism of the trailer) to free it.

Long rain pants are good. Keeps the water out of your shoes.

Don't move it much, just let it set, then when your impatience gets the best of you, just nudge it along a little, then wait again. Easy to overdo it. AND use the proper color for your water. LMB seem to like the PB & J and Junebug quite well and SMB like the greens better, New Money, Canada Craw. White in very clear water. Keep in mind that every fish may be part of a good pattern. Color preference may change during the day.

Here are the "why's" regarding my line choices: Surface: Mono, easy casting, significant stretch which softens my often too fast and hard response to the strike, AND IT DOESN'T SINK. Fluoro sinks which screws up the action of many surface lures. Finesses: Braid with Fluoro leaders Braid has little to no stretch so makes it much more sensitive than mono or Fluoro, easier to feel subtle strikes. Also when the 10-15 pound test braid is used it allows very long casts and good hook sets at long range. I like the fluoro leader to soften it just a bit and to allow a lot of lure changes without shortening my braid. 4 inch swimbaits on jigs, snapping of the bottom: Braid with leader on a ML power, MF action rod. The rod action is important to get a proper snap and fall and the ML power is right for proper loading of the 3/16 oz jigs. The braid gives better hook sets than mono or FC. Cranks: Mostly mono for it's easy casting and significant stretch, keeps the fish on better with trebles than braid. I don't like fluoro for a main line because it costs so much and is so fragile-a backlash with a baitcaster can easily break a $20 line in no time. It also doesn't cast as well as braid or mono, often with the line coming off th spool, both BC and spin. There are some recommended that are more manageable, but I don't see the advantage in paying big bucks for a fragile line that requires a lot more attention than braid or mono.

You have very long arms. ?

I want the best at the helm for navigating with all possible info and don't need the top of the line at the trolling motor. Although if bucks didn't matter, I'd have the best both places. Now and then I wish for more up front.

I've worn my Phonaks into the shower a number of times for short dunks and they were not damaged. The only times I ever took them fishing in the boat was when I forgot them. I have very severe hearing loss at high frequencies, but normal at low frequencies. I never thought I was gaining anything with them on in the boat. Mine were covered by Auto Owners home owners policy with a rider, but AO doesn't offer the rider any more. I think they were losing to fraud and carelessness.

Worked in MI at 47 degrees a week or so ago. Ned finesse TRD and 3.5 inch tubes for smb.

Don't even take them to the water unless you simply cannot hear without them. Then protect them with a buff and be very careful when removing the buff that you don't lose the aid. Too easy to lose when working with buffs, hats, sunscreen, etc. Don't ask me how I know. I doubt if they are insured. Normal homeowners policies don't cover them and few companies offer insurance even with extra pay specifically for the aids. With mine the wind noise was not a problem, (I seldom took them on the water and always wore a buff) but they would make the engine noise worse. As one would expect. I expect at 50 mph and no coverage like a buff that the wind would take them right off.

7 foot or close, Med Light power, fast action. You don't want to go too powerful or it won't load well when casting. Try to get the recommended lure weight range of the rod to include your most likely lure weights Above good for Neds and similar, including drop shot, but for tubes I find a medium power much better for better hook sets and proper loading for 1/4 to 1/2 oz tubes. Better to have specific rods for each.

How do you fish the Keithech swimbaits, snapping off bottom or slow and steady or. . .? My best SMB this year came on a New Money Ned Finesse, 6-7. The swimbaits were not as effective as usual. A DNR guy told me they worked a lot better last year than this. Interesting. MY best cranks were the Rapala DT series in Iconelli Smash color. Most fish on tubes, some version of green. Very nice write-up, A-Jay, thanks. I don't know how you have time to rob the banks.

The comments on the physical characteristics of plastic are accurate. But is how much it detrimentally cold flows in a knot significant or not? Based on the number of fishermen who successfully use their knots for weeks indicates that it is not, at least not for the knots they are using. If you don't want to fish in the rain and the chance of rain is given as 5%, will you cancel? I won't. If I cancel I would seldom go fishing. If I retie a bunch of outfits every time I go fishing I will be spending too much time tying and not enough time fishing. Maybe not a good comparison, but I think it's easy to see the point that it's important to determine what is significant and what is not.

I would rather have the leader get shorter and shorter with numerous lure changes than have the braid get shorter and shorter. I'm not saying it's a compelling reason that should change your mind, just saying that it is one of the reasons I use a leader. I also like that 4-6 feet of "shock absorber."

The answers above are certainly valid, but you asked what I do. I tie an FG to attach leader grade FC to my braid, the leader being significantly weaker than the braid. This way I am assured if I get snagged the terminal knot will break first, it being about an 80% knot. I don't rety the line to leader knot until it looks suspect or the leader gets too short. I see no reason to be retying about 6 or 7 setups every time I go fishing. I've had no problems with this strategy, don't remember the last time I had a line to leader knot failure. I also don't remember the last time I had the terminal knot fail with a fish.

Getbitoutdoors.com Penn guides? Meaning salt water? Fuji has their new Corrosion Control stainless guides in a number of versions, some very affordable, so give them a look. Call GetBit if you have questions.

Since the turn signal and brake light are the same light and work from the same wire, if what you are saying is true then the problem must be in the vehicle's electrical system. Be absolutely certain that the brake light is NOT working and the turn signal light IS working. There are nice testers that plug into the trailer wiring terminal on the car, but I'm not sure they differentiate between the turn signal and the brake light. Bad grounds are often the problem with trailer lighting, so make sure grounds are perfect, terminals clean. If an expert finds my facts or logic in error, please explain in detail. https://www.etrailer.com/question-161374.html

Good procedure, exc for us cheapskates who use split shots for the sinker since they are so much cheaper. :-) They also usually slide off if snagged.

What is G3?