MickD

You think you have problems with shrinking rain gear. All my clothes have shrunk over the years!

I respect your opinion, but disagree. I have already customized my installation. Common sense would be that when you pay over $2000 for new electronics on a $24000 deal, you would be able to do what you have been able to do with a $500 fish finder + the side imaging capability they are touting. The transducer does all the functions it was designed for, but not the common sense functions one would reasonably expect, like depth reading at speed. If Humminbird had said up front "this will not read depth at speeds over 6 mph" then I would have no complaint. I would either ante up to pay for the capability, or I would not. And I would have made the decision with all the info necessary, and would live with it.

Good, I now know exactly what mega stands for. It is as I understood it, but good to know I'm not missing anything. I was just curious about a Humminbird connection, Wayne, no offense intended. As I said before I've learned a lot from you and appreciate it. In fact I've learned much more from you than from Humminbird and my dealer. I believe my dealer is just uninformed. This stuff is so new he just doesn't yet understand it, so he installed the transducer wrong and didn't know to warn me about no depth reading at speed. However, his statement that I don't need to know how deep the water is when going faster than a troll shows, in my opinion, how easily he will stretch the truth to avoid responsibility. He is either an idiot or a liar. He did agree to install the fix hardware gratis; I pushed for that so he would be forced to come to grips with what it takes to get a depth reading at speed. With Humminbird, I believe Humminbird could easily be considered guilty of fraud by omission, knowingly omitting information that is necessary for prospective purchasers to make good purchasing decisions and to avoid responsibility for not meeting reasonable expectations of their product.

I cannot find the post on this forum, although I believe it was here. Maybe the author will see this string and chime in. I have a pretty good line test link, will give it below. I think I was, as I think most people do, equating sensitivity with stretch. Both mono and FC stretch about the same as a percentage of the line length, with mono being toward the high end of the distribution, so you might say it stretches more than FC. But you'll find FC's that stretch more than monos and vice versa. The data is for stretch at breaking point, which really is irrelevant, but I did find an article that measured stretch at low forces and it concluded the same thing: difference is small, but the FC distribution is a little higher than mono. But I don't believe there is an objective "sensitivity" test. If FC seems more sensitive than mono, then use it. I also doubt if there is an objective test for "pain in the ass," but to me, FC is a bigger pain in the ass with little offsetting advantage (for a line, not leader). In the article below there is discussion on sensitivity, and what the author thinks the differences in material characteristics (like density) have on perceived sensitivity, but it's opinion and judgment again. It could be that if I used really stiff rods for finesse fishing I might sense a sensitivity difference between mono and FC, but my heaviest power rod is a medium heavy mega bass that I use for baitcasting for salmon and pike, and sensitivity is not an issue there. I conclude with the comment that if sensitivity is really a priority, then the obvious solution is braid. And braid casts pretty well too. http://www.sportfishingmag.com/gallery/gear/2014/11/line-test#page-11

I'll try to find the post on sensitivity, was right here, would have been under this topic. I might add that the term "slack line sensitivity" is sort of fascinating. Think about how sensitive any slack line is. Then try to differentiate between any two types of line, when they are slack. I know that each line has its strengths and weaknesses, but if someone just starting out with baitcasters wants to spend a lot of money trying lots of lines, encounter many frustrations, to find the nirvanna of lines then FC is just what the Dr. ordered. Every proponent of FC on this forum seems to have his favorite FC that solves the problems of the others. And most people's favorites are not the same as other people's favorites.

Right, the unit on the front is the Helix, both are Helix, the one on the helm is mega with the big flat transducer as shown in the photo above. Just to be sure I know exactly what mega stands for, please tell me. Also, Wayne, you are very knowledgeable on this stuff, and I'm sure many others besides me are appreciative of what we have learned from you. But I'm curious, you don't happen to be associated with Humminbird, do you?

Early on the question was asked about the weight (specific gravity) of FC. It is about 50% higher than braid or mono. Comments on improved sensitivity of FC were shown objectively (data, not opinion) not long ago to be in error. FC is no more sensitive than mono. Both can vary somewhat with formulation, but to go through the expense and frustrations of trying to use FC for sensitivity is not backed by science. If new to BC your best bet, IMHO, is to simply use about 14 pound test name brand mono until casting becomes second nature to you. Then if you want more sensitivity, go with 35-50 pound braid with a FC (leader grade) leader of about 15-20 pound test. My position on starting with a premium grade of FC to avoid the frustrations is that you very well may sink a lot of money and still not be significantly further ahead. I don't know if the premiums are tougher than the normal "name brands" that I've used, but if not you could lose about $25 worth (half a spool) of premium FC on your first backlash. And there will be backlashes. FC is very susceptible to being broken while trying to get a backlash out, unlike mono or braid.

Yes, a 7 on the front and a 9 at the helm.

I cannot really see whether that mega transducer is installed below the boat's surface. If it is it is not mounted according to humminbird's instructions. Mine was first mounted below the surface until I showed the dealer the humminbird instruction sheet. Now it's up above the boat bottom surface about an inch or a little more. I'm not sure what transducer is compatible with the unit so you get good depth reading at speed. All I know is that there is one that humminbird recommends, it looks like a "conventional" transducer, it should be mounted so about half of it is below the surface of the boat, and it has to have a Y cable to "wire" it in.

Been there, done that. The fact is that the mega transducer is incapable of giving depth at over about 6-10 mph. What Humminbird doesn't mention in their advertising, and what the sellers don't even know (I think) is that you need another $100 bucks in hardware to get that depth reading at speed. Go to the support section of Humminbird.com and search for "high speed," as if 10-20 mph is "high speed," and you'll find the extra transducer and Y cable needed to get the depth reading at speed. The Y cable doesn't tie in at the stern; it ties in at the unit, so the new Y cable has to be run all the way from the unit to the stern where the new transducer will be mounted next to the mega transducer. My boat seller actually tried to sell me that no one really needs to know how deep the water is at speeds over trolling speeds. I think this is a big issue that Humminbird and their dealers are not stepping up to. Humminbird smugly ignores it while the dealers plead that they just sell the stuff we call for and cannot know about all the variations of hardware and customer expectations. We consumers pay over $2000 for electronics that won't even indicate depth if the speed exceeds 6-10 mph. That is inexcusable. The good news is that the new transducer works fine for depth reading at speed and the unit doesn't have to be switched between the two; they work seamlessly together without any switching required.

I start witih something fairly fast, like lipless crank or 4" paddle tail on a bullet jig, experimenting with different retrieves. If nothing, I find out if fish are there with a Ned rig. If fish are there, in a few minutes I'll know it.

There is one aspect of baitcasting that is clearly superior to spinning. If you fish a technique that calls for instantly letting line go off the reel, spinning just cannot do it unless you fish with the bail open. Even then it is not as smooth as free-spooling a baitcaster.

38 super fan has a good point in mentioning the effect of braid on the system. If you are now using braid, try either a longer FC leader, like 10-12 feet to get some give in the system, or go to mono. You may find the XF feels right with some give in the system. Although with ML power, it may not make enough difference. You'd notice it more with more powerful blanks. If you're already using mono or FC, there is no way to significantly soften the system further. As a comparison, I have 6 1/2 foot Avid medium power fast actions, and 7 foot medium power Legends, all used with braid, and in my opinion they are not "too fast" at all. St. Croix power ratings usually are different than other brands, too, with a medium power St Croix being a little more powerful than other medium powers.

Baitcasting is perfect for bottom bouncing, imo. I really like braid for almost all my baitcasting techniques, including bottom bouncing. Its sensitivity helps to differentiate between the bounces and the bites. When you start casting with it, start with the easy stuff, like spoons and lipless cranks, then move to the more challenging things like spinnerbaits. I do not recommend starting with flourocarbon. Most FC lines are really difficult on a baitcaster.

I guess you and I have a "totally" different definition of "totaled." Hull OK, engine didn't go under, saved all the stuff in the boat. . . .

What is BSF?

Take the engine to a qualified servicer and get it serviced right. The total immersion of the engine is a big deal, can be handled, but don't try to start it before having it serviced. Previous post is right on regarding separate starting motor and trolling motor batteries. You don't really have to carry a jumper if you have the capability to move the battery to the engine and hook it up. A paddle is easy to stow and might have saved all this trouble. Although you did say something about big waves, and in high winds the paddle may not work that well.

Regarding height of the tongue, if the ball bayonet is offset by about 2 inches, most can be turned over (reverse the ball) and now it will be 4 inches higher. More offset may get it too high.

There are two reasons for having mulitple setups. One is to do the best for the technique you are fishing. Two is to have multiple setups in the boat so you don't have to retie every time you want to change a lure type. You need to think of the rod action and power, the type reel (mostly dependent on lure weight), and the type of line (braid for high sensitivity, mono for a little stretch and to not sink your line on surface lure casting). You didn't mention line, which means you have more to consider than you thought. Your current setup will do for many techniques where the lure weight is sufficient for baitcasting to work. But when you want to go lighter, you need a spinning outfit. Go first with a fast action, medium power, spinning rod setup and it will be very versitile. For this one I'd use braid with a flourocarbon leader. It would be for finnesse, bottom fishing, jigs, tubes, drop shot, that kind of stuff. Not surface. After that it's going to be up to you which direction you take. For surface and cranks you may want a medium power, medium action outfit rigged with mono so as to have the line not sink your lure and to give some "give" when a fish strikes a crank or on the surface. Match the rod power and reel type more to the weight of the lures than to anything else. By this time you'll be pretty expert and won't need any more help.

Power Pro is my most used braid, but Suffix Premium Braid is also excellent. And a new one, not easy to find (try RodComponentsUSA.com) by American Tackle, the same folks who market Bushido blanks (high performance, high value). It's called the Bushido Combat Braid. I used it for bonefish with fly/jigs last winter, and it performed beautifully. Long casts, no stretch, strong knots.

Unbelievable.

My point was intended to promote thought into the "definition" of "locked down," and how much force is generated by "locked down." It seems to me if the drag capacity is 15 pounds, that's about all it can generate when "locked down." So if this is true, with 30 pound test line, there is no truly "locked down" drag. Most, if not all, freshwater reels, spin or cast, don't have drag capacities any where near 30 pounds, which is about the minimum braid pound test that baitcasters use. Maybe most are considering "locked down" to be "maxed out," but with line with higher pound test than the drag capacity, line can be taken off against the drag and rods can be broken if not handled correctly.

Careful, Gavin. That's not how they are sized. Since I have been in rodbuilding they have been sized by the OD of the ring, which means for different brands and materials the ID's may be different for the same nominal sizes. But if one orders a 4 mm micro to replace one with a 4 mm ID, he will receive a smaller guide than the one he's trying to replace. Best way, Joelhains, as you admit to being new at this, is to take your rod to a good rodbuilder/repairer, and let him do it. It won't be that expensive and very likely will look very close to original. He can touch up the others which may be showing wear, too. I doubt if you can do that on your first try.

I have never heard of a successful repair of a tiptop, so replace is the only option, iMO. A good way to prevent overheating the blank is to tie the tiptop to something and apply a little force as you apply heat. IT DOES NOT TAKE MUCH! Doing it this way makes certain you don't apply too much heat. Piece of cake. Unless the tiptop was epoxied on, which means it will not come off with just a little heat. Here is where you get into a problem because epoxy doesn't melt, and the heat it takes to soften it is very close to the heat it takes to damage the blank. Apply heat, as little as possible, and try to twist the tiptop gently while heated. Apply a little heat many times, working on it each time you heat it. BUT, if you apply too much heat, the blank will break. If it does, you will have lost only about 1/2-3/4 inch, so it's not that big a deal. Then get a properly sized tiptop and use the glue mentioned in the previous post.

The part most likely to be worn used to be bait caster level wind pawls, but I don't think I've had one fail in many years. On my reels, the pawl worm gets washed dry pretty quickly, so I lube that particular part often. If one didn't do that, I think it would still be pawls. If taken good care of with reasonable service, I expect most reels will last almost forever. On spinning reels I think the most likely component to fail is the bail spring. If you can get into the habit of manually closing the bail you can avoid this problem for a long long time.