MickD

We have lots of opinions on knots on this forum, but not a lot of data. Here are data to go with their opinions. Especially valuable is the testing for different types of lines. https://www.saltstrong.com/articles/fishing-knots/?utm_source=Fishing-tip&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=Knots&utm_content=Knots-post&inf_contact_key=5adc6108c3c8bfb00c58817f7d6dec74c8ae3dfe33f190b3e23fe2f0eb3571a7

I put 150 yards of Bushido 15 pound braid on mine, filled it up. Will reverse it after a year or two. I'm not sure I get your point, 130 of 8 on a smaller reel and 140 of 10 on a bigger reel? Isn't that sort of logical? For what most of us do, 75 is plenty.

Got the 9535, and it's the right size for what I wanted. Very nice, smooth, reel, drag seems very smooth. But, it appears to me that the spool lip is farther forward relative to the stem than the Daiwas and Shimanos I have been using. sort of an uncomfortable reach for the finger. Hope I get used to it.

Depends on the size of the guides and the pound test of the line. Uni is not a small knot, so in the higher pound tests, it can snag on some guides. For 10 feet of line, cut it at the damage and fish with no knot.

I think, considering that the swivel is obviously a limiting device for line to line connections where the function of the swivel is only to avoid having to tie a good line to line knot, you should bite the bullet and practice a good knot, like double uni or surgeon's knot until you can efficiently and effectively tie one or the other. You don't want to have to go through your fishing career limiting yourself to not being able to tie a good line to line knot. Look at the schematic, follow it religiously, use spit to lube the knot (+ a few of the other tips given in these posts), and test it before using the rig. In time and practice it will come. The problem with the FG is not that it isn't strong enough; it has been tested and is the strongest line to line knot. The problems with it are that it is a difficult knot to learn to tie properly, and it doesn't work as well with light leaders as it does with heavier ones (15 and above). If it is not done correctly it can test well in the hands, but suddenly fail when fished. The two I've mentioned above are easy to tie correctly, plenty strong, and are reliable. Inspect them every few days and if they are getting frayed from passing through guides, cut and retie.

You'll probably be transferring the odor of WD to the lures you're using, and that is not a good idea. How about a damp cloth for a wipedown? I don't use anything other than that on mine and keep them looking and working well.

I expect the "regular old fisherman's knot" is a clinch knot, not an improved clinch knot. If a clinch, it is not a reliable knot. But if you are using that knot and the end of the line looks curly after your lure disappears, the knot is slipping, not breaking. The uni is a good knot, but no one is telling you how many times to pass the tag end through the loop-I use no fewer than 5, also lube the knot with spit. Make sure you are passing the tag end through the loop properly so it goes around both lines when making the turns. It is possible to screw this up and not capture both lines with the turns, and it won't work if that is done. Do a search for uni-knot.

Any opinions on best maps for the Helix 9 for Michigan lakes, especially Saginaw Bay and Lake St. Clair, Detroit River?

Personal preference- I like the most sensitive rod I can afford for drop shot , which leads me to the SCV rods. I think the medium power is more appropriate based on better hook sets. Fast or extra fast. If you're sticking with light or med-light power, and missing fish, check your hooks-must be sticky sharp, especially for lighter powers.

I have never seen a ceramic guide ring grooved, but I've seen a significant number of tiptops grooved. Which is why I always use SIC tiptops. Exc for possibly the Torzite, SIC is the hardest ring material.

I'm no expert, but I have seen a hell of a lot of pretty sick looking fish at the weigh ins of current tournaments. When I pick a bass out of my livewell, it goes nutso. The fish I see so often on TV just hang there. I've heard that fish treatment is a high priority at bass tourneys, but from what I've seen, I'm suspicious there is a lot of fish mortality associated with tourneys. OK, tell me how wrong I am.

To cast well a rod has to load properly, and it will do that only for a certain range of lure weights. Sounds to me like this rod is loading better at the lighter weights. The spacing at the tip is not a casting issue. The only issue with running guide spacing might be that a section of the rod might get overstressed and would fail. Not likely , though. The reduction train is where the distance is made or not made. Here is a top secret tip. Don't tell anyone else. Try 10-15 pound braid on it and it will cast any weight really well. :-) There is more to gain with the lighter braids than any move you can make with the guides.

If you're really serious about changing the rod's color, then there is a way to do it that should not affect the action that much. There are a lot of builders who have painted rods using Duplicolor spray paint + clear coat. I don't know if it needs a primer, but I expect the people at the auto parts stores will know. Graphite rods are not that different than auto plastic parts like fascias. Also, the white color of your rod is undoubtedly paint, so that should provide any primer function that is needed. First scuff the old finish with scotch abrasive pads. If you start seeing graphite, stop. Mask off the guides and grips. Probably should do this first rather than second. You will want to use very thin coats. The color coat may even be a "tint" that will show up as a light shade of the color (or allow the color of the primer to show, if one is used. Try to avoid a primer. With the scuffing, I really don't think one is necessary. Without one you'll feel better about getting a denser color with the color coat. If you have some of those fiberglass driveway marker rods, practice on a couple. Be aware that you just might make this rod into a total failure. Since you cannot fish with it, not that big a deal. Auto paints are flexible enough for rods; Rodgeeks uses auto paints to provide 28 colors of rod blanks. If you get it done, post some pics, and good luck with it.

Flechero, just kidding.

I've got to think of some sort of idea to get to you guys who will spend $6-700 for a rod. There has to be a way to make some big bucks off you. Probably some kind of property scheme. Or global warming.

FC for nothing but leader, mono or braid depending on your preference. I use braid with FC leader for almost everything exc baitcasting surface lures (mono).

Two or three in a row means that you (and we) are missing something. That is incredible. Stop and think about what's going on, and you'll probably figure it out

Too pretty to fish with? I hope not. And the guy who got it is a fisherman, who will fish it. There is nothing in this build that is in jeopardy of being degraded or screwed up by fishing with it. Rods are supposed to be fished, and given reasonable care, they should be good for your children and grandchildren. The only thing that I can think of that fishing could compromise is the clarity of the wrap epoxy. It inevitably will get to looking a little amber. Small price to pay. Thank you for your compliments.

The good marina boat sellers wire and install the electronics, totally free, if you buy from them. They should (verify this with them) use a mounting board, [and should (for their boats) know the right location] which installs with just two screws into the hull, then all (it can be multiple) transducers can be installed with screws short enough to not requiring drilling into the hull. In about 30 + years of boating with a transducer on the rear of the hull, I've never damaged one.

Hit the wrong button, or mistakenly cancel spot lock, then find someone to take you to your boat. That's probably what would happen to me. I think I'll use mechanical means to control my boat's position. Different strokes.

I think this indicates the better quality of cork on the St Croix. The Dobyns rods I've seen have pretty porous cork with a lot of filled pits, and this kind of cork will accept finishes better, with more color change, than high quality cork. The burl cork, which is very different in structure, really accepts finishes well, which is indicated by its change in color when Tru-Oil is applied. The disadvantage of burl is that it's a lot denser, therefore heavier, than regular cork, so if one uses a lot of cork, it can make a significant difference in the rod's weight.

I hope they change their grips-they have had some of the goofiest grips on the market for the last few years. Just an opinion. Great blanks, poor design.

I thought I might try a Patriarch, but am confused by models. Is it correct to assume that the last two numbers represent the closest "normal" size? Like the 9530X is a 30 or 3000 size reel? Similar in size to a Shimano Stradic 3000? 9540X a 40 or 4000? thanks

The green burl cork really needs something on it to change it from the dull, drab, not very pretty appearance that it has after turning. It is not nearly as attractive as plain burl. Also, the best burl cork has different size "chunks" in it giving it an interesting texture as opposed to some burls which seem to be made of tiny uniform chunks. I suggest trying burls from different sources to find the "best" burl as defined by this texture. But the "best" burl in its as-turned condition is pretty unattractive. I used Flex Coat wrap epoxy on this and it looks great. I'm confident that it will hold up well based on past experience. What the U40 cork sealer or Tru Oil look like on the colored burl, I don't know yet, but they should enhance its appearance some, with Tru Oil shifting it significantly darker. Thanks for your comments.

In the image directly above this text fish icons are shown. In some cases it is clear that there are fish there based on the raw data. For the 27 foot case, not clear to me. What are the criteria that Humminbird uses to determine whether to create a fish icon or not? On my old Eagle Fish Elite 640 I turn them off as most of the time I can interpret the raw data quite well, and clearly, most of the time the icons are "false indicators." I'm getting new Humminbirds electronics and would like to gain some insight into the fish icons on it. thanks,