MickD

titanium alloy frames are clearly better for salt than any stainless. You need to wash your rod and reel after every salt water use regardless of the frame material, but if you screw up, titanium is more forgiving. the Alps guides are great titanium guides, as are the Fuji's. But there is another popular brand out there which has titanium alloy frames that are not that strong.

You don't get a 7' 9" rod to come in under 3.5 oz just by cutting guides. It takes a very light blank, a very light, most likely skeleton seat, little cork, and yes, small guides. But the micros are so light that whether it has a few more won't affect the weight significantly. I wonder five fewer than what? Spiral usually doesn't result in five fewer. I have built and used spirals and I personally don't feel the torque that is the most commonly stated reason for spiral (don't feel it on regular rods). I can see it for really heavy duty rods, and the torque has to be a real factor there. But without having a torquing problem, and not liking the looks of the rods, I don't build them any more. I'm a little stumped by the configuration of the photo rod. Seems like it will cause the line to build up on one side of the reel. No on the torque, not likely on the weight.

I prefer light weight breathable waterproof separate pants and jacket + breathable waterproof light hiking boots. Combine with layers as the weather dictates and you can handle everything. You do not need to spend a fortune, just shop around, look for sales, buy wisely.

You can get titanium alconites. I think that SIC handles heat better, but not sure they are necessary, exc for tiptop.

The need for the premium rings for guides is over-rated. The need for premium rings for tiptops is not. The need for infinitesimal weight savings is over-rated. The need for superior corrosion resistance in salt water is not. I personally don't like the ugly grey color of some lower level rings, and since they are so thick, it's really a problem justifying more costly, more attractive (to me) rings. Often, if one has a requirement for one of the attributes of premium guides, he has to take them all. For example, no one is going to offer a titanium framed Harloy guide. If one wants titanium, they have to get the premium ring. Finally, the corrosion resistance of most keepers is terrible, so just spend a couple bucks more and get the REC keepers, or use a REC single foot fly guide for the keeper.

Oops! Then he has something sharp on his sleeve. Sorry.

Sounds like the FC and knots (line to FC and FC to lure) are stronger than the braid. Either the braid is too weak (damage, too low pound test, very old/deteriorated) or the leader is too strong. If the braid is OK, go to a lower pound test FC. If the braid is not OK, replace it, possibly to a higher pound test. Your knots are good, so don't change them unless you start getting breaks at the line to FC knot. l If you get that, improve your line to FC knot by using a double uni, FG, or Alberto (it has to be tied right! tag end of braid has to go out the loop correctly, check the illustrations on line). Finally, if all is OK and you're still not breaking at the lure, use a slightly weaker knot there.

You sound pretty knowledgeable, so don't delegate your decisions to those who really cannot be as familiar with your tastes/preferences/details of your plans. Stick with it and make your own decisions. Regarding extending or cutting a blank 2 inches, you just might be over-thinking this. With all the blanks available, I don't think there ever is a justification for cutting a blank, maybe a little for extending, but not likely. IMHO

That rod may have meant a lot to you on Christmas morning, but I'll bet it meant more to him. If he treats it right, he will be enjoying it and thinking of you for many years when you are just a memory. Very nicely done. Really good epoxy work! Remember how you did it so you can do it again.

You will not find better epoxy work than that rod-it is perfect. I like the up-locking Aero seat.

It's a matter of opinion.

If you really watch the pros most of them are using moderate action rods for almost everything, so they can get away with more aggressive hook sets than all of us who are infatuated with the fastest actions we can find. In fact, it is necessary to be as aggressive as they are with the tackle they are using.

Many use the Alberto and swear by it, so I agree with the poster who suggests you are not tying it correctly. Look at this video and pay particular attention to the sticking the tag end back through the loop. If you go through in the wrong direction it will fail.

I believe you mean contact cement? Contact cement does work great bonding EVA. I think filling the gaps with EVA craft foam will work better than trying to fill with a mix of EVA dust and adhesive. .ghoti, I tried your method of applying wrap epoxy rotating the rod by hand then moving it to my dryer, and it works better than what I was doing. thanks.

It is also good for spinnerbaits or other lures like it where you want to snap the lure free from weeds and keep the cast alive. Some claim that XF actions minimize spinnerbait helicoptering during the cast, but I'm not convinced it makes any difference on this.

I have found that the skirts I make with the rubber ring retainer have two problems. The ring is easily cut by pike teeth, and even if cut, they don't have the retention on the jig head bard like the "molded" skirts.

Not sure what to fill with, maybe others will chime in with some experience. But you need not put anything on the grip after that in order to use grip wrap. I strongly recommend Winn's wrap. Go to their web site to find resources on how to wrap it. You most likely will like the rods better than when they were new. Here are some ideas: http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,462242,462256#msg-462256

I think many are missing this aspect of using markers, to break up the image of the line by not marking all the line, but marking it in patches to "camoflage"l it.

my experience with Quantum hot sauce is that it dries out quicker than anything else I've used and then all that's left is that ugly red stain. The late Reel Mech would charge extra for servicing a reel that was "contaminated" with Hot Sauce. I agree with DVT.

Anyone who is interested in custom rodbuilding and is willing to get to Laingsburg, MI, on Sat April 8 may join us for our annual gathering. There will be a number of "seminars" on various topics, American Tackle and WinnGrips will be there, there will be a nice lunch, and raffle tickets for a raffle with numerous prizes will be sold. Many of our members will be showing their work, and will be proud to discuss it with you. Just show up. It will be at the American Legion Hall, just east of the Woodbury Road/Grand River Road intersection from about 9:00 to about 4:00. If anyone needs better directions, let me know.

30-40 cents each, not bad if it gives the action you want. Re the yarn, use synthetics-there are all kinds of synthetics that do not soak up water like most natural yarn materials. You guys have my interest up, now, so I think I'll try to do a version that will act like a Ned. http://www.jsflyfishing.com/mcflyfoam-mcflylon http://www.jsflyfishing.com/wapsi-foam-cylinders

Would not a tungsten bead locked at the head of the fly give the head down at rest function of a Ned?

In answer to the original question, if it's not a Ned Rig, it's not a Ned Rig.

I agree that what I put together looks very much like the 360, and a lot cheaper, but I AM going to try them. If there is something I cannot see about them, but is very effective, I'm not going to miss it. A few bucks to make an INFORMED decision rather than an educated guess is worth it. Didn't I see someone stretching one way out, like the Z-man material? The ones I put together won't do that. But I have to admit, the videos really look a lot like a bullet jig with a Strike King 4 inch swim bait. (which is very effective).

I have not used them, but I have a friend who loves them. They also get good reviews on another building forum. Builders like their low cost, good looks, their low weight. They will not be as hard as premium ceramic rings, but I think the need for that level of hardness is overrated for guides. I expect they will last quite well. On the other hand, I would put a premium ring tiptop on as that is what will groove first, and it is not unusual for non-primium tiptops.