MickD

Riley Rods I was answering for CF grips, and I think the question was for reel handles, so the answer is not Riley Rods.

Since I wrote the post recommending pharmacy syringes I have learned that there is the possibility that they have silicone in them which does not mix well with epoxy, causing fish eyes and other problems. So use them at your risk. I find it hard to believe that a device that is intended to inject material into the human body could have silicone in it, but that is what I have read. The syringes purchased from rod-building sources do not have silicone contamination, so even if they are relatively expensive, no problems with silicone. They will last forever if you keep them specific for each component for a while, then once a year or so, clean them with the rodbuilding brush cleaners.

Cannot argue with your logic, folks. But I do disagree with the comment that epoxy has little adhesive properties. Especially if CP is not used.

There are many builders who think that guide size and setup are unimportant for a casting rod, believing that since the reel line guide is so small, nothing else matters much. I'm not so sure. I remember when builders were first starting to use micros one builder recommended a larger first guide, then smaller the rest of the way. Both Fuji and Amtak have setups which they say do a better job than most setups, and yes, it could be just marketing. But with some setups, if you cast into the rising or setting sun, it's pretty easy to see that there is a lot of high speed looping going on between the reel and the first couple guides. I do believe that some setups get the line through there cleaner than others. While it may not matter much for distance, some of my rods seem more prone to backlashing than others, and it may be due to the setup. I haven't fully figured it out yet, but I think there is something there that makes some setups better than others. My rods that I think are the better performing ones have the high 6mm Fuji KR first guide. More to come (I hope).

I only use locking wraps on Fuji KLH (very tall guides) or the first two Microwave single foot guides. Not sure they are necessary, but tall guides are more likely to snag on stuff than more compact guides. I don't use them on micros since they are so close to the blank that they never seem to snag anything. I know that others prefer the locking wrap on all single foot guides. For a locking wrap to have some utility it would have to prevent the guide from moving without the wrap epoxy being damaged. Period. I don't know if they do that or not. The only guides I've seen that had damaged wrap epoxy were on old cheap big box store rods that probably didn't use enough epoxy when originally wrapped.

I'm sure they will work, but I far prefer the Fuji RV as the first casting guide, then whatever single foot K guide size you want after that first guide. I like 4.5's or 5's. Use a couple KB's right after the first guide, bigger foot, more strength in the highly stressed part of the rod. I see no reason to skimp on guides for a custom rod. Really expensive ones are not necessary, but I at least want a ceramic ring guide.

Some braids are not as round as others, and the flat shape is worse for digging in. Also, if digging in is a problem and you don't want to change to a premium "rounder" braid try using a lighter drag setting. There is another phenomena that can happen if you have too much line on the spool. The line, during the cast, especially when wet, will drag on the reel frame. Make sure your line is not doing that.

I think you have to decide on your priorities, flash vs Microwaves. In my opinion you can make a great rod with the flash. Microwaves are not magic, and there are tons of great rods made with guide designs similar to or the same as the holo ones you can get. It would be an easy decision for me, I would go flashy.

I sometimes use charts from the manufacturers of the blanks (Rainshadow, Anglers Resource, St. Croix, etc) + the Fuji catalog KLH spacing info as starting points, then move them around based on my stress test. When you get into the charts in detail, you'll find them pretty generic exc for the KLH info. With experience you'll put them very close to the final location without using a chart. Keep in mind that many of the charts are still using the old "cone of flight" design which is pretty obsolete. You only need 3 reduction guides (max) on a spin, then the running guides all the same size. On bait casting, one double foot first guide, then the same size running guides the rest of the way. I like the Fuji KR for that first casting guide. Spend some time on the Anglers Resource (Fuji) site, one of the best. The KLH info is in their catalog.

I was specifically referring to people trying to use casting with inappropriately light lures. All the advantages of bait casting mean nothing if you're spending a lot of your time digging out backlashes or if you are unable to get effective casting distances. I really like using baitcasting, but only when it is more effective or efficient than spinning, and I agree, it certainly is with the right lures.

I hear it over and over on this forum, people trying to keep from using spin tackle, using bait casting when it is a real challenge. This is madness. Fishing is supposed to be fun, so use spin for the light stuff and bait casting for the rest, and forget the frustration. I hear all these "I can bait cast 1/16 oz lures with bait cast" and I ask "Up wind?". If you want to be one who can cast the lightest lures on baitcast, go for it. If you want to catch more fish, with less frustration and problems that keep your lure out of the water, go for the easiest to use tackle, sometimes spin. "

I just don't understand what a reel rating for line pound test is all about. Never seen one. The line/capacity notes on the reels are just to tell you how much line the reel will hold. The only reel characteristic that has anything to do with line pound test is the drag capacity. Bottom line, use any line you want to on your reel. As to the rod, you can use any line you want on that , too, just don't allow your drag setting to overpower your rod. Don't overthink this. Do your setups to maximize your efficiency for whatever you are trying to do. Forget the "ratings".

Since the smallies I fish for prefer a sharp twitch over the more progressive "sweep", I prefer a fast action that gives that twitch more easily. So a power matched to the weight of the lures, graphite, fast or Xfast action is my preference. That rod will work fine for spinnerbaits, jigging, drop shot, and really isn't bad for cranks, especially deep ones.

I have used fiberglass crank rods and find them inferior to graphite mostly because of the weight and lack of sensitivity. You can get any power and action you want in graphite.

Re where I fish, mostly Saginaw Bay for smallies. It is common that our take for the day averages over 3 1/2 pounds, not unusual 4 pounds. Largest last season was 6-14 by my son. Since it is open water a medium lite will work, and I use one for my ned rig fishing. But for other stuff, it is not the ideal rod. I stand with my recommendation of med power fast action for better hook sets and better control of the bigger fish. Re backreeling, I have done it, but I find using the drag with the anti-reverse on to be more reliable for me. I tend to lose control of the reel sometimes without the anti reverse on. I tend to keep the drag on the light side from what I think most will do. I might do otherwise if the water were not open as it is in Lake St Clair and Saginaw Bay.

You need something to hold the blank in order to rotate it and wrap the guides, and you need a way of tensioning the thread. When the guides are wrapped and the epoxy is on you can use your blank holder to hold the rod and turn it manually now and then to keep the epoxy from all ending up on one side of the blank. The simplest way to accomplish this is to get a cardboard box about 18 inches long and cut V notches in it to hold the blank, and run the thread through the pages of a heavy book. Better is to get one of the manual wrappers like the Mudhole or Batson, not that expensive. I've used a home made manual wrapper for years. When you get to wanting to turn your own cork or EVA, you will want to cobble something up to allow a drill press or portable drill to allow this. Search the internet for ideas. For convenience a slow rotating motor mounted to a frame to turn the blank slowly will really help keep the epoxy on the wraps in the right place. Go to http://rodbuilding.org/list.php?2 for an excellent forum on rodbuilding. Be sure to check out the library and use its search function to find help on about anything. You will get better with every build, and your first may not be what you are expecting it to be. which means it's best to start with inexpensive builds and work up. Nowadays the inexpensive blanks and guides are very good quality, very capable. But don't use a $100 blank for your first. The kits are a good way to start as they include all the components.

The smallies take on that pattern when kept a couple hours in the live well, not sure why. Can anyone explain it? The dark? Meaning they would look that way after a dark night in the lake? ??

While I agree that ML would be better for casting the lighter lures, it will not be the best for hook set. Any rod selection is a balance of strengths and weaknesses. I would rather give up a little on casting to gain better hook set capability. Surely you do not want anything less than a fast action ML, better a fast action Medium power.

The ID of this part is 15mm. So it has to go over something that is very close to 15 mm. What are you trying to adapt to? A pic or description of what you are starting with would help a lot. For different configurations there will be different solutions

The ring material has nothing to do with placement, and in my opinion, all the materials available today will take mono, FC, and braid. I would use premium material for the tiptop, like SC. As to placement, I really like the charts in the Fuji catalog. They take into account the type of line and pound test. Start here: http://anglersresource.net/Catalog.aspx

If the cleaning recommendations don't work you can renew the grip by applying Winn Grip tape to the grip. I think they cost $10, come in many colors, are a piece of cake to install, and give the Winn Grip feel. http://www.mudhole.com/Winn-Rod-Overwrap-Grip-Tape

I'm wondering if blanks breaking on hook sets may be due to high sticking or rods having been damaged before the hook set. I've NEVER broken a rod on a fish. I suspect something else is going on rather than just a hook set. IMHO

The ghost or ghost shad (Yozuri) on Lake St Clair and Saginaw Bay for smallies. Firetiger if the water is stained.

I think the Pflueger recommendation is good; I;ve heard a lot of good things about them. Also look for sales at the usual on-line sources and combos that have the stuff you're happy with. Might luck out.

I fish spin outfits about 2:1 over casting. Super flukes, 4" swim baits on bullet jigs, wacky, drop shot, small jerks and cranks, swim jigs. Personal preference for the fairly open water that I spend most of my time on. So I would go for spin. Do you find yourself changing lures on your cast more than spin? Or vice versa? Go with what will minimize having to change.