MickD

It has been Suffix Performance Braid, but after having tried some 15 # American Tackle Bushido Braid, that may become my favorite. It better last well because it's quite expensive.

Please read my previous post. If you want your cork to retain its good looks, then definitely, use a sealer on it. If you want its appearance unchanged, use U40. One coat only. Then, when it gets dirty, you can easily wash it to return it to (almost) its new appearance.

I tried the dredges with that funny hook and had lots of bites, but missed most hook sets. I finally figured out that that the sharp kink in the hook bend was contacting the roof of the fish's mouth and allowing the hook point to miss the roof of the fish's mouth as the jig exited the mouth. I solved it by bending the hook to put the point into better position to penetrate. I wrote Siebert about this but never received an answer. I would recommend the other designs over the dredges. I have others of his that work just fine, and he offers many great color combinations that don't seem to be available elsewhere.

First cast at the boat launch with the new large ned rig. My cousin forgot his cap and went back to the car. I cast the first ever for my new big ned and caught a nice smallmouth. I'm surprised I haven't seen more on the forum about the new big ned.

I agree with other posts, but if you do build on the spine and build a multiple piece rod, find the spines of each section and align them. Was the "crooked" guides comment generated because the blank twisted under load? I've seen that happen with light power casting rods. Never knew it to be a real problem, but it does look strange.

Whatever knot you use, lube it with spit as you tighten it, and make sure you really do tighten it down .

Sounds like a good plan. And you've proven it works.

After sealing with U40 the cork will look and feel almost unchanged from bare cork, but with Tru Oil, it will feel a little "harder." That's not bad in my opinion, as I think people tend to over-rate how good bare cork feels. Keep in mind that carbon fiber grips are very hard, but they are not uncomfortable. Different, but not a bad feel, IMHO. I have a couple rods I've used Tru Oil on that are many years old, and they just keep going on and on without change, without ever needing to be cleaned up. Noting seems to stick to them. Your choice. If in doubt, do an old rod grip in Tru Oil after "renewing" as others have suggested, and see if you like it. With exotic burl cork it makes the "grain" stand out more, more contrasty, and a better look.

Good ide. If you have the can.

I've read this before, on other forums regarding the degreasing of bearings. But when I try to find out what the ingredients of "brake cleaner" are, I come up short. To me, a very important issue is what the risks of using a cleaner are, and this is not easy to determine. Since we are not dealing with "world peace," I will be using the green stuff or something like mineral spirits. I've used mineral spirits for 60 years, and I'm not brain dead yet. (no comments on that are needed)

From Jim Ising of Anglers' Resource, the distributor for Fuji in the US. "That was a Lew’s Speed Stick. His rods brought Fuji Guides to the US…and the rest is history. This company spun off Lews after he went out of bis. Fuji has never offered a finished rod."

It somewhat depends on the length of cast you will likely be using. I use a lot of very long casts with jigs and tubes with braid, and I stll prefer fast actions for better hook sets with the long casts. I don't fish frogs much, but still think a fast action would allow better hooks sets and better twitching the frogs along the tops of pads and other weeds.

The best line for these lures, IMHO, is braid. You say you don't like braid because it is too visible, but many fisherment use it without a leader and do just fine. I use a leader, and while you might consider this an inconvenience, it solves any concern with visibility. Every option has advantages and disadvantages and the finding the right tradeoffs is the key. To me the far superior feel of braid, no stretch, and its far superior casting qualities on spinning gear (you can use higher pound test and still cast better than mono or FC) far outweigh the disadvantage of using a leader. Additionally, braid will last a lot longer than the others minimizing the need to change lines. I love feeling the blades and the thump of the strikes so much better with braid than with the others.

One issue not mentioned is that many factory rods are built with cardboard reel seat shims, insufficient epoxy between the blank and the components, and terrible quality cork (look at it closely and you'll see all the filling that has been done to make it look good. Add this very important workmanship issue to all the others and you'll have a top quality rod that will last forever if taken care of, and it will be exactly what you want. One issue of making it what you want is this: If you know you will be using line no heavier than 15 pound braid on a spin rod you can make the rod with smaller reduction guides than the factory does. The factory rods have to accomodate all lines, so will most often use larger reduction guides than necessary resulting in a heavier, less sensitive rod. Finally, there is a ot of enjoyment that comes when you finish the rod and take it fishing, knowing that this is your creation. This is much different than the purchasing of a rod and taking it out the first time.

Probably safe for the bearings, but I think there are better options based on the hazards to the person using it. https://toxtown.nlm.nih.gov/text_version/chemicals.php?id=1

I appreciate your comments. Speaking of the foam ramps, I started that quite a few years ago and have had only one problem. On one rod I didn't totally fill the gap between the front of a foam ramp and the blank, and it crushed in. On every single other rod the ramps, exc for the yellowing of the finish on light colors, look like new. I've never done a butt knob that way, just covering the foam with wrap epoxy, but since I've had no trouble with them when I've done them right, I think I'm going to try one. It would provide a match between the reel seat ramps and the butt knob. I don't use rod holders on my rods, and they don't get carried around in the backs of pickup trucks. Another thing I have tried that shows really good promise is covering exotic burl cork ramps and butt knobs with wrap epoxy. It brings out the "grain," is of course glossy, and looks stunning. I did it twice about 7 years ago on a couple rods that had special problems, and they still look like new. Some may think they are losing the "feel" of cork, and maybe they are. But I don't think cork feels all that special, and hard, smooth, surfaces feel great to me (like carbon fiber). It also stays looking good indefinitely. Again, I appreciate your comments, always.

Blanks are blanks, so any can be built into anything one wants. The only potential restriction is that some brands void the warranty for fly blanks built into spinning rods. Note that Point Blank doesn't even call their blanks "casting" or "spinning." I don't know why manufacturers have separated their blanks into the different groups based on the reel, but it's probably to help us find what we most likeliy want for that reel. It is wise when one cannot find the characteristics he wants in one group for him to look into the other groups. I agree that for this technique you are most likely to find the blank you want in the "spinning" section.

As stated above, and also you can try to find a local builder who repairs and he/she might do it for a surprisingly low price. You are not far from Mudhole, you might go there and ask if they have some local builders they recommend. Oops, you're in CO, not FL. Go to the biggest fishing shop in the area and ask for a recommended builder.

Note that it's not just the power, but also the action. You want a moderate action, and as Team states, they are often called popping rods. Snake, don't worry about us up-north folks not having TRD's. I think the ned is probably the biggest thing to hit up here in my memory. I cast a junebug new bigger size ned into the launch area while my buddy went back to the car to get his cap and on the first cast ever with that bigger size ned, I took a nice smallmouth. I was cheating , though, I moved the lure now and then. :-) I think that in cloudy water it helps to move it some to expose it to possibly more fish than would see it if it were absolutely stationary. I don't think the now and then movement adversely affects its effectiveness.

I can say with confidence that I cannot cast lures that light on a bait casting outfit. Whether with or against the wind. And I don't know whay anyone would want to. It simply is much easier and more reliable with a spinning outfit. But if one wants to try, the best rod will be a light power that loads fairly well with the light lures and a moderate action to load over more of the rod's length and to slow things down so they are easier to coordinate/handle. Moderate rather than fast or extra fast actions are easier to cast regardless of the weight. With more weight, however, other priorities can be handled with faster actions.

I tried some other jigs with the "cast-in" keepers and couldn't get the grub over the keepers and against the head. Regarding losing fish, I think there are two things that might help. First is a fairly long, moderate actions medium light power rod which makes it easier to keep a tight line and won't tear the light wire hooks out. Second, you may want to try giving the fish a little more time. Don't set immediately on feeling the fish, give it a few seconds. I recently was fishing and doing something else while my ned was on the bottom and felt a "bump", but thought I had hit the rod butt on something. About 10 seconds later I gently felt for the lure and found resistance, so set the hook into a fish. The hook was in the tongue of the fish, not at the lips. The fish was eating it. This was the new larger ned.

Thanks, appreciate your suggestion. I personally don't care for finger notches, though. I don't like the looks of them, and like the feel of smooth, even, conical or "curved conical" ramps. Just a personal preference. Thanks for the link. I had not seen it before, and had not heard of the "no feel" concept. I do, however, do most of the retrieves describeds. Don't usually shake the rod, though, will try more of it. What I don't get is why it's called no-feel. If you don't feel anything you don't know, most of the time, if a fish has taken the lure. If you really want "no feel," try these retrieves with an old model Ugly Stick and report back. No offense intended, and I'm not doubting the effectiveness, but just don't get why it's called "no feel."

If they are using braid it doesn't matter as much as mono or flouro. I think it's because braid is so soft twist doesn't matter until it really gets "excessive." At least in the lighter tests of braid, like 10-15. I don't really understand reeling while the fish is taking line against the drag. It accomplishes nothing and most likely is causing twist-don't see how it couldn't. Sort of like sucking your thumb when hungry. No nutrition, and your thumb gets yucky.

I cannot cast lures as light as the ned on a casting rod. With the aero up locking there is that big ramp off the "front," which doesn't show well in my photo. It's carbon fiber, so it contributes to the sensitivity, is very comfortable, and beautiful in the sun.

The right rod for the ned rig is a lighter power and slower action than the usual finesse rod in order to cast the light jigs well and to be sort of "forgiving" while fighting fish on the light wire hooks. It should be as sensitive as possible, of course. This last requirement leads to micro guides to make the tip as light as possible. I think I've found an ideal blank, but there are many more suitable ones of other makes, I'm sure. The Rainshadow Imortal IMMWS72ML-TC my favorite. It is called a "walleye rod" by Rainshadow. It weighs 1.7 oz, is rated for 1/8-3/8 lures, but loads fine with the 1/10 ned jigs. It also handles the new heavier, larger neds well. Its action is called "fast." I measured it at 65 degrees (CCS action angle), which is more moderate than most blanks called "fast." Bottom line, it appears perfect for this technique. I found the power to be 190 grams on my rig. An Amtak Aero seat, up-locking, and carbon fiber ramps and butt knob were used. I used the Microwave guides, but the Fuji KLH setup would work just as well, in my opinion, and would give an even lighter tip. In my opinion, a blank with these characteristics is perfect for the ned, especially in open water where horsing a bass out of weeds is not an issue. Of course horsing isn't going to work well with any blank with the light wire jigs of the original ned.