MickD

You may want to check out Mudhole.com and look at their blank specials-you may find a graphite blank that fits your needs, and some of them are very reasonable. I think that once you use a good graphite blank you will never use your Ugly Stick again. They are very tough, but so slow that I just cannot stand to use them even for crankbaits. A medium power, medium light tip graphite rod will be so much more pleasant to use, lighter, more sensitive, and I think it will cast better. Certainly less tiring. I haven't tried them, but have heard that Rainshadow blanks offer very good quality for the money.

Thanks for your comments, Reelmech. I thought my post would get your attention, and this gives me the opportunity to state to everyone reading my post that you were not the one who worked on my reel. Next time you will be, however. On a different issue, Reelmech, have you ever sanded "scallops" into the handles of your casting rods where the fingers of the casting hand rest when casting with one hand? I recently did this on one of my casting rod projects, and really like the stability and grip improvement it gives. They probably are less than 1/8 inch deep, and hardly noticeable visually. Thanks again for your comments on this issue and the steady, rational opinions you always give on the forum.

You're right, I should have. But I'll bet he doesn't "tune" by machining parts. I'll bet he cleans and repairs. There are a lot of things I "should have done," and this is one.

Larger diameter reel spools allow the use of heavier line as the larger diameter reduces the tendency for the line to loop off the spool, and the heavier the line, the more it will do that. I have not found on my freshwater spinning reels that I can use lines heavier than 8 pound test MONO. I know a lot of people do, but I don't know their secret. I would not advise going heavier than recommended for the reel. Use cheap, heavy, line for backing to allow you to fill the spool with your fishing line without using an excessive amount of it. As you mention, you will not use 250 yards, and most of the time a couple cast lengths is all you will use. Fill it to within 1/8 of an inch of the lip of the spool for good casting. I have evolved into using 10-15 pound BRAID with a 6-10 pound flourocarbon leader of about 6-7 feet in length for my spinning rods. Use a uni-uni knot to connect the braid and flouro (do a Google search for uni knot and you'll get instructions fast). Wet the knot as you are sliding it together, and trim the flouro close to the knot. Use a palomar knot or similar knot for the terminal end of the flouro. Try this and you'll find it casts like a dream compared to anything but 4 pound mono, minimizes looping dramatically, and has better sensitivity than mono.

I somehow came across an advertisement on line for a service to tune casting reels to make them cast better. I think the word "super" was associated with the tuning. Being too trusting, and not thinking clearly at the time, I sent my old favorite Calcutta 100 to the guy, paid him his fee, and in a couple weeks received the reel back. On putting it on a rod and trying it out I found if anything it cast worse than before it was worked on. And it now makes a cheap rattly sound when retrieved, and often sort of screams when casting. The latter can be affected by adjusting the spool end casting adjustment "nut." In general, whether casting or retrieving, the reel has lost its "precision" sound and feel. On examination I found that the spool shaft on one end had been machined down about 4-5/1000's of an inch, appearing to have been done very crudely, like with hand tools. I think that is the source of the problem. There is too much clearance at one end of the spool. Bottom line, I'm a little poorer and my favorite casting reel is now a trolling reel. If you see ads for this kind of service, be very wary. If you stop and think of it, casting reels without the centrifugal weights and the adjustment nut turned down are already so free that most of us cannot really cast them that way, so why would we want to make them spin any freer? Dumb me. But a little smarter now.

Regarding: I never had any luck using braid with a fluoro leader. I must be doing something wrong. I was attaching the two together with a surgeon's knot. Just about evertime I would cast the knot would bump inside one of my guides throwing my cast off.

Just noticed your post, a little late perhaps. Previously mentioned point about not getting the distance from the reel to the butt too long is very important. For some types of fishing this dimension can really cause problems. I don't think it is possible to get neutral balance and maintain dimension above within reasonable bounds. Watch for the people who disagree with this statement! Remember that you probably can cut off some of the threads of the reel seat, also. Most of them are longer than they have to be for the reels I use, so I usually cut off at least a half an inch. Remember to put your winding checks, if you use them, on the blank before glueing the next section of cork into place. I forgot this and had to split the checks, then build up epoxy on them to hide the split line. Duh!

I have been drilling burl and rubberized cork with no problem with a drill press. I doubt if you can do it well without one. But there are other uses for the drill press, and it doesn't have to be expensive. If you drill out your rings to 5/16 inch, and mount the glued stack on a 5/16 threaded rod, with the upper end in the chuck of the drill press, and the lower end into the 5/16 bore of a small ball bearing mounted in piece of wood which is clamped to the work surface of the drill press, you have a great light duty lathe for turning cork. Either with a file or sandpaper as the tools. I use a file, then 60 sand paper, then 100 sand paper, then 200 sand paper. I use burl cork and the handles come out just what I want for diameter, shape, length. And drilling holes in the cork is very easy, safe, and accurate. Using a high speed on the drill press with a sharp drill bit you can hold the rings by hand and drill quite slowly down through them. I've not ever felt I was putting my fingers at risk. It is very stable. But I don't drill rapidly!

I know nothing about all this orange and not the same as, but the Cabela's and Daiwa equivalents that I bought 2 years ago are really nice reels. They are my favorites, and I cannot imagine anything that would justify paying more for fresh water reels.

I use 50 Power Pro on an inshore casting reel. Many use 50 braid for most fresh water casting - it's diameter is the equivalent of mono of about 12-15, if I'm not mistaken, so the 50 pound test is not as much overkill as it at first seems. You certainly wouldn't have much trouble with breakoffs, would be very tough and forgiving. I use 20 -30 fleuro with my 50 braid, and 14-20 with my lighter braid. Double uni knot should work with all these combinations, does for me. Make sure you lube the knots well as you tighten them. One factor that argues for going lighter on the lines, especially the fleuro, is that the heavier the line, the bigger the knot, the more it tends to get beaten up by the guides and the harder it goes through the guides. On the other hand, the heavier lines will be more resistant to damage.

Braid with a fleuro leader is about all I use any more. I really like the sensitivity. With baitcasting I usually use about 25-35 braid with a 14-20 leader, about the length of the rod, using double uni knot which has always been reliable for me. With spinning I usually use 10 pound braid with 6-12 pound fleuro depending on what I'm fishing, double uni knot. Only caution is that the knot will get beaten up by going through the guides, and I think it is appropriate to cut back and retie every now and then, depending on the number of casts. In Canada, fishing 10-12 hours a day, I retie every other day. The double uni is easy with a little practice. Mick

I have fallen in love with 10# Power Pro on my spinning rod for just about everything. Long, effortless, casts, no problems with tangles or line memory, seems very tough. It is undoubtedly the best casting setup I've ever tried, even as good as 4 # mono, except much more forgiving. I don't know if it is necessary, but I use an 8# fluerocarbon leader on it since I'm worried about fish seeing the opaque braid, and if you use a leader, you need to learn the double uni knot, which at first is tough, but with practice becomes easy. And remember every other day or so, retie it as going through the guides can deteriorate the strength of the knot. I have read that others use braid without leaders in everything except crystal clear water with no problems. If tying directly to braid, learn the Palomar knot for your terminal knot. Easy and will not slip.

Don't look back, just enjoy. There is no such thing as too many fly rods, so if it isn't right, buy another. I think, as you do, that if you try stream trout, it will be just right.

Keep in mind the string started asking about catching 10-14 inch smallmouths, so erring on the light side might be better than erring on the heavy. I still think a 6 weight is plenty unless the rivers are big, the casts have to be especially long, or the flies have to be big streamers. None is likely for 10-14 inch fish.

Ultra clear and low- long casts required. If 4 pound mono is tough enough for you, fine, but I find it too fragile. So on a clear, low, long cast river I fish I used 10 pound Power Pro with a six foot 8 pound fluerocarbon leader. It casts a mile (better than any 6 or 8 pound mono I've tried) and is tough enough to take some contact with rocks. Only down side is you have to tie a good double uni knot to get the line and leader connected well. After some practice it is not hard. I use super flukes on a 3/0 hook, no weight, and the smallies leave wakes once in a while rushing up to them. Tennessee shad color and bubble gum. Bubble gum is nice if the fish are hitting them because you can see them so well on the retrieve. Very little to no action is required.

My son and I use silver buddies in deep water both vertically and on long casts and have little trouble with snags. We encounter weeds and rocks, very little wood, which might be a different issue. I think I remember an article recently in which the leading hook of the front treble was cut off, maybe one of the rears, too, and it prevented snagging without significantly affecting the action. At the right times of the year, they are very effective. If fished vertical, they are a piece of cake to fish-even jigging-challenged guys like I am can do it. Another time they work very well is if you find midsummer pike off Canadian lake points in very deep water (40-50 feet). Just hang the boat over them and jig the silver buddy-usually pike cannot resist. Oops, talked pike on a bass site again.

I have not experienced the IMX rods yet, but made two 7 foot Loomis Bronze crankbait rods. They are said to be a blend of graphites in order to get the light weight, sensitivity, and still have a sort of soft action for cranks. They are in fact super light, a pleasure to cast, and handle big bass with ease. I love the rod. Some recommend glass for casting cranks, but if they ever tried one of the loomis crankbait rods, they would never go back to the heavy, dull, unresponsive, glass rods. The ones I made are the light end of a series of two or three crankbait rods that Loomis offers. I like them on the softer side because I use braid most of the time, cast lures smaller than 1/2 ounce a lot, and softer rods are easier on the arm for casting for long periods of time. I'm only talking about baitcasting rods-not sure if that is what you are asking about.

Buy the best rod you can afford, I really do believe you for the most part get what you pay for in rods. In spinning, the rod is more important than the reel, so stretch a bit on the rod. I would go 7 foot for river bass-I like the extra length for maneuvering the tubes on retrieve, and especially if wading. For a boat or canoe, the extra 6 " of length is less important. I have the Legend Elite 7 footer mentioned earlier, as does my son, and we love it. Since I made the rods myself, the price was about 40% less than retail (and with better guides). I also have a mid level Loomis that costs a lot less than the Legend, and seems to me to be as light and responsive (guess that conflicts a little with getting what you pay for- but Loomis and St Croix make some really great rods)

I agree with previous posting recommending 5-6 weight. I would go for 9 foot. #9 would be too much rod (unless streams are very large and you are casting large streamers) and would be more tiring on the caster than necessary. I don't happen to have a #6 so use my #3, and it handles the fish OK (~2 1/2 pounds) but is not quite enough rod for the olive wooley buggers that are the best smallmouth fly around here. I have an #8 and a #9, and they are just too much rod for stream smallies. They are good light salt water rods. Go to a store and handle a #5-6vs a #8-9 and I think you will be able to tell right there that the #5-6 is right in comparison to the heavier rods.

I'm pretty sure those who argue your line is twisted are correct, and replacing the line and respooling with new of any brand will only repeat the problem - unless you change the way you respool. Note that the line is not just loose on the spool, it came off the spool then wrapped around itself when the tension was removed. If it were just stiff line it would tend to come off the spool, but would not wrap around itself. I agree with someone who said you probably can fix it by dragging the bare line behind the boat for a while. Except for the Cabela/Daiwa "Capricorns," and maybe some others I don't know about, the right way to spool a spinning reel is to observe the bail action from the exposed end of the reel spool. If the bail wraps in a clockwise direction, let the line come off the line source spool conterclockwise, and the line spool source does not rotate. That is right for your Stradic. Check out your instructions and you will probably get these instructions and a nice sketch of them. 6 pound test line of just about any quality will be soft enough to work well on your Stradic if installed without twisting. Mick

Before you buy, do an Ebay search for the reel you decide on. If the seller has 100% satisfied buyers, you will likely not go wrong (on brand new reels). This way you can get a $240 Quantum PT Tour for about $180, or if you're stuck on Curados, Curados for about $160. I just did this for a Quantum PT Tour and it casts like a dream! I expect all the $240 reels cast like dreams, and from what many are saying, the about $200 Curados are very good. As I said once before on this forum, it would really be great if we had a spot where we could try out a number of reels. Anyone know of that spot?

Don't look back, just go fishing. Shimano has been in the mainstream longer than Quantum, so will have many more advocates. I really love my Quantum spinning reel, don't remember the model, and their PT Tour casting reels are really smooth, and just a little above the Shimano price. You can go nuts with all the hype about the different options, but the bottom line is that you get about what you pay for, and I expect for what you paid for the Shimano there are not a lot of options that would offer you more. One thing I would offer you as a strategy next time you go out for a purchase, check out Ebay. You may find what you want at a lower price. Mick

Let's restate the field we are dealing with-this is a bass fishing site. So we don't have to worry about runs against the drag of 100 yards or more. We are dealing with a few feet or yards. With spinniing, it's all about the rod. And with any technology, with added price there is a diminishing return. Usually what you get with rods above $90-100 are better guides and more guides. And that is not a lot of gain. I have never had a guide fail except for grooving the tip top. So put on a new one every few years. As for the reel, anything above about $80-90 will not yield much advantage. It will all be in long term durability and smoothness. But not a lot. With bait casting it is all about the reel. The more money you put into the reel, the better reel and fishing experience you will have, and going up to well over $200 will get you significant performance advantages. My opinion, with spinning, get the most expensive rod you can afford with a good $75 reel, and with bait casting get the most expensive reel you can afford with a good $100 rod. Watch for sales. and Ebay. At this site we tend to get a little anal about the small stuff, so use your judgement and you will do OK. We have all fished with less than the "best" and have had a lot of fun. Really expensive tackle won't make you a better fisherman, it will just make fishing a little easier or more pleasant.

I think the most important aspect of bait casting rod selection hasn't yet been specifically mentioned, and that is that the rod action needs to be matched to the weight of the lures you will most often be casting. It must flex quite a bit on the cast in order to load properly and cast easily. Many select a rod that has too heavy an action and find that it is very tiring (hard on the arm) to use for long periods. Most of these responders are experts, so they may consider my point a given, but I think it worth mentioning.

Lots of good opinions here, and remember, it is all opinion. There is no absolute answer. I find Shimano Stradics to be quite good when new, but having worked on a few, find them a little cheap feeling and not quite up to their price. My favorite reel right now, and I admit my opinion changes as I try other stuff, is the Daiwa/Cabelas Capricorn/ ?? series of reels. Silky smooth, good drags, great bail closing efforts, comes in a variety of sizes. Metal housings, never fails. I think you get what you pay for, for the most part. But do we need a reel that will take a tarpon run of 150 yards if we are fishing for largemouth bass that can take at most about 10 yards? Don't get enamored with the $400 reels. You don't need them. Better to buy a $100 reel instead of $400, and buy a $200 rod. Or build the rod yourself for $100. With all technology, there is a diminishing return curve of performance vs cost. With reels, after about $100, you don't get much for your money, with rods, after about $150, same story. Don't get sucked in.