Way2slow

I suspect that's more for lawsuit protection. Not that it's going to damage anything if properly connected, it's the world of s***t you can get into if not properly connect. If you cross connect to a lead acid battery, you get a big spark. If cross connect to a lithium, you also get that same big spark, but there is a possible battery explosion and fire to go along with that big spark. Shorting a lithium battery is dangerous business, especially since they are usually located next to a fuel tank.

Yep, things were totally different back in those days. Talk about talking to the bank president, the bank president gave me a $225 signature loan to buy a 29 model A ford. I had just turned 17 and spent the cash I had buying a new boat, and this car came up and didn't want to lose it. He asked me if I was going to pay it back and I said of course and walked out with the money. However, he also knew me really well and was a regular customer at the service station I was working at after school.

While on active duty, I always had a credit union account, since they were conveniently located on base. Now that I'm retired, they are not so conveniently located. However, I have had an account with what was a small bank in the town I lived in as a teenager. It has been bought out several time since then and is now a Regions Bank. I was just reading on one of the new popups that comes up and my home page about a woman's mother in a nursing home, having her Regions debit card compromised and Regions refuses to do anything for he about it. I have not been really happy with them since they went Regions and thinking about making a change,

I rarely use my "real" debit card. It never leaves my hand or goes into a card reader that's not inside a major retail facility. It's way too easy for crooks to scan it. I keep a second, prepaid debit card I only put $100 at a time on unless I know I need it to make a larger purchase, then I will put enough for that one time buy. I absolutely would never use my real card to buy something online. The only credit cards I have are my gas cards and an American Express and some online places don't take that or PayPal, so I either have to try to find what I want elsewhere or use my prepaid card. Over the years, I've had my American Express compromised three times, and they took care of it. I've had my Cheveron compromised twice, from buying gas at pumps from at places that are closed but still have their pumps on. Perfect setup for crooks to place a card reader to scan your info. I know the banks claim they will make wrongful charges against your debit card good, but good luck on that one and if they do, it can take months. I've heard of more than one person's nightmares dealing with banks over wrongful charges, so I limit mine to an amount I could do without if that does happen. I usually keep several thousand dollars in my checking account the real debit card is on, a lot more than I would care to do without if it got compromised.

I just picked up a 12V Motorguide X3, 45# 36" shaft at BPS to go on bow of my 1436 Lowe jon boat. I feel that's more than enough for that boat. I wanted the X3 digital which is only available in the 55# but the shortest shaft available on that one is the 42", and I didn't want that. This will be the first non-digital TM I've owned since they came out with the digitals. I figure I can make or buy a mosfet controller to go on it and make it a digital easier than I can deal with all that extra shaft sticking up.

Wow! I must be missing something. I thought a 10' Bass Raider was one of those plastic pontoon things. Where would you even put that much battery in the thing. I must be doing something wrong; I've always considered my 28# thrust more than enough for my 1232 jon I use for ponds and small water.

Mine had Synflex hoses, but regardless of if it's Synflex or steel braid, the outer shell is just for wear protection.

I have used a `12v MinnKota 65MX on a 12ft jon in ponds for more years than I can remember, never seen a need for anything bigger for pond fishing. Now, I would not even try to use it in the river, where they have a good current flow. I'm only running a 60 lb Enduro on a 24' 4,500lb pontoon in big water and had no problems

The outer sheath is nothing but weather and wear protection, it does nothing as far as affecting the reliability of the hose. It's not uncommon for it to completely dry rot and break off so all you see is the white bradded inner hose. I've seen the hose on the uprights of forklifts used outdoors, that have been missing that out shell for years on end. Unless you have a pocket full of money you need to throw away, I would keep on running them.

I think he said he had replaced the bearings a couple of times. It doesn't take but one bad set where the inside diameter is as little as a half thousandth of an inch over size to cause the damage and once it has started, it's just going to get worse. Just over tightening them one time can cause it. Once the spindle has be reduced in size from the race spinning on it, every bearing you put on it is subject to spin on it. There are tricks you can do, that might salvage it (like knurling them) but in the case of being on a trailer and it having to potential to cause a failure at a very inopportune time, it would be more prudent to replace the spindles. They are not that expensive; the main cost is paying a shops labor to replace them.

Those spinals are junk as bad as they are grooved. I have to question if maybe you are over tightening the bearing. What you are seeing is caused by the inner bearing race spinning on the spindle, instead of the bearings spinning on the inner race. A common prevention of this in industrial applications is putting green Loctite on them when installing the bearing, however, that's not very practical on wheel bearings. For one, they have to be clean with no oil on the surfaces, and two, a lot of times it takes heat to get them back off again. Another cause could be the poor-quality bearings and are not the proper size. I just ran into this yesterday with a project I'm working on. I ordered two cheap, ebay bearings and all they gave for an inside diameter was 45mm and outer diameter of 60mm. I did the conversion and turned my shafts. I guess a Chinese 45mm and 60mm are different than the rest of the world. Both ID and OD were 0.0015" off. Green Loctite time for those because it wouldn't take long for those shafts to look like your spindle's. By the way, I see someone mentioned using a speedy Sleeve, repair sleeve. They are not designed for you situation. They are for repairing a spindle the seal has cut a grove into and the grove has gotten to the point it won't let the seal, seal. The only repair for those spindles in to either replace them or have a machine shop flash weld them and turn them back to specs. That's usually more expensive than replacing the spindle.

To clarify a couple points. I replace the cranking batteries in my "vehicles and boats" every three years. There are a number of batteries that have three years, free replacement and seven years prorated replacement warranties. I did a little research on the arc voltage. I've always heard it could be as much as 200 volts. Some automotive research and testing facility says it can be from 25 to 125 volts. Still high enough to ruin your day under the right circumstances'. If one on those jump boxes have an on and off switch, yea, that helps. However as mentioned, it still may not start the motor. Some of the DFI motors that have electric injectors in them pull massive amounts of current and while the motor may be spinning, the voltage is too low to fire them. I know for a fact this is the case with Evinrude's. I owned one for 10 years, and have a couple of occasion's where it would not start because of weak battery, but was cranking over. Also understand, information I provide is just that, information. Much of that information comes from over 60 years experience, and when it comes to electrical, having a degree in electronics helps a little. If you don't believe it, or don't care, that's strickly up to you. It's your boat, what you do and how you do it is totally your choice. As I say, ain't nobody going to tell me what to do with my stuff. One little trick you can try, if you think 12 volts is just 12 volts and won't hurt you, connect a 12v wire to a 12v starter solenoid/relay and take it back off while touching the terminal. You ain't gonna want to do it a second time, not after about 300 volts lights you eyeballs up.

You will change your tune when that bad cranking battery cost you hundreds of dollars or leaves you stranded, or both. I just don't see the math in wanting to even consider running a questionable cranking battery. Even the best of them are less than one rectifier/regulator or stator, both of which can be easily fried because of a bad battery. That little $50 jump box can cost you megga bucks when blow the ECM connecting it. That minor little arc you get connecting it or jumper cables to the cranking battery is zapping the electrical system with hundreds of volts. On a bad day, it can destroy some mighty sensitive electronics. This is not limited to just boats, same thing can happen to your vehicle also. I've been turning wrenches on boat motors and vehicles for over 60 years and can't begin to count the times I've seen this happen. Plus I've never seen a battery that left you stranded at a good time. For no more than a battery cost, I don't need the grief they can cause. I replace cranking batteries in my boats and vehicles every three years, even if they are supposed to have a seven-year warranty. If it something that sits unused, it sits on a maintainer.

I have two motors I haven't used for a while, but I had prepared both for long term storage. A 1996 4hp Mercury and a 1978 9.9hp Johnson. The Merc has not run in nine years, the Johnson in six years. Both are used on my 1436 jon and the Mercury is also used on my 17' canoe (which I haven't used in many years). I've only used the jon in big lakes for six years, so I've been running the 25hp Mercury on it, when I did. I plan to use the 9.9 in a few weeks, so I put it on the jon to check it out in the tank. Third pull and it started right up. Water pump was a little slow but I knew it would need an impeller so that was already on order. It ran great for a couple of minutes, and then not so great. Diagnosed that to a bad power pack keeping #1 cylinder from firing. Pulled power pack off a 28hp Johnson and it ran great again and when the impeller gets here, it will be ready to go fishing. I thought I would save myself about $100 and repair the power pack myself. The transistors have inhouse part numbers I can't cross reference. One tested bad, so that didn't pan out. Put the 4hp on the back of the jon to hold it in the tank. Four pulls and it fired up and ran great. Ran it for about 10 minutes in the tank and prepped it to go back in the garage. I will replace the water pump on it, if and when I ever plan to use it again, but not putting one on it now, just to sit and the garage and go bad again.

Road warrior, that's me now. A couple weekends ago I went striper fishing. This was the first time I've had mine in the water without a 1/2 dozen people in it. It maxed out at 20.7 mph at 5,500 rpm. That's also the first time I've had to motor full throttle. Normally, it's 4,200 - 4,500 rpm and about 17mph when it's has it's normal load of people in it. Does not good to run it any higher rpm, it burns a lot more gas and only gains a whopping 0.5 mph. When I went fishing, it was about 2 miles for the ramp to a section I was hoping the stripers were going to in. Never thought much about that when I was in my Javelin, I pulled away from the dock, idled out of the no wake zone, hit the throttle and in I'm there in less than two minutes. With that pontoon, it seemed like those two miles had grown to 10 and I was never going to get there.

I don't think anyone with any experience in fast boats are ever really comfortable when a boat is fully up on it's pad and only the last couple of feet of it are just skipping along on the water. Like I said, I've owned a lot of very fast boats in my life. When one is fully aired out and up on the pad, your since of situational awareness is peaked. First, you are up straighter, your arms and whole body is more tense, while the steering wheel looks like it's in a nervous jitter while dealing with the chine walk. Your head and eyes are never still while you are looking around and at the water and for any surprises that might pop up. These things don't have brakes, and you definitely don't want to be making a sudden panic chop of the throttle. Do that and you will probably learn what they call a "Bat Turn" is, and hope you are still in the boat after you do. Nothing like moving forward at 75 - 85mph and then within a couple of seconds, be facing the direction you just came from. I've seen more than one person ejected from their boat doing a throttle chop at high speed. I've seen boats that will do it at 60 mph if they are light enough to be well up on the pad. What happens is, when you chop the throttle, it slams the front of the boat down and that huge amount of sudden hull drag makes the back of the boat where all the weight is, flip around, and your body is still trying to go straight while the boat is trying to go the opposite direction. 75 gets you there in a hurry, and is nice to have on a big lake, but 45- 50, gets you there on half the gas and feeling a whole lot more relaxed. On Jig Man's post below, for several years, before I got the dual console Javelin R20, I was running a Stratos 285 Pro, rated for 175hp with a 326 hp 3.0 Johnson I built. I always had the need for speed.

What's that old saying "there's one in every crowd" One other note, a marine biologist owned the equipment and was helping me do that.. Yes, they taught me a whole lot about their habits in that body of water that I didn't realize or know. I would have loved to have kept it going but a friend had the equipment they used for salt water research but they used different transmitters. Transmitters were not cheap, and just buying six of those `was all I was willing to go out of pocket on. If I had to have bought the tracking equipment also, it never would have happened.

Bullet, 300 Merc combo, and 87mph. Was that all it would do or was that all your nerves would let it do. I built a 3.0 Johnson for a friend several years back with him and me in it while I was doing the final tunning and setup, it ran 92.4 with both of us in it, both of use were over 200 pounds. Never saw the proof, but he claimed he had seen 97 with just him in the boat. Of course that motor was putting out just a little more than that 300 Opti-Pop.

I did that for almost a year back in the early 90's on several large bass. Back then the transmitter was a glass tube and not super small, so you had to make a small incision in their belly to insert it and put a stitch or two in close if back up. I lost all six of my transmitters. Never caught but one fish a second time again and the others, either the transmitter died or someone else caught them. Got too expensive to keep doing it.

The first thing I would do is check the lease agreement. I would also see if they advertise secure storage. Then I would check on local rules for the small claims court. If he advertises or claims SECURE STORAGE, I would be inviting him to join me in small claims court.

I deleted my last post because of too much conflicting information. However, I will say this about the post above. Any information about the current TM really means absolutely nothing, it may not have even had the right size wiring, etc for it. All that matters is what the new motor requires and that the cable, circuit breaker and power connector meet the requirements of the new motor. If not, it needs to be replaced with components that do meet that requirement.

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Ok, what ever. https://www.fabhabs.com/dc-cable-sizing-calculator

There is a very high probability you will have to drill new mounting holes. About the only way around that is, if the one you have is not extremely old and the same manufacture is still using a mount with that same footprint, which is not likely. Also, you will need to verify the one you want will even mount in the same location. Some use mounts that a almost two feet long, others may only have a small, almost square footprint. Even then, they don't use a standard hole spacing between different models or makes. They are not like an outboard, where most all motors fit the same hole pattern. Besides, it's not really too small. It's just the mindset of most people today think they need to run 20mph with just the TM. BOAT WEIGHT (LB) MAX BOAT LENGTH (FT) MINIMUM THRUST LEVEL (LB OF THRUST) BATTERIES NEEDED 1,500 or less 14' 30 1 battery (12v) 2000 17'-18' 40-45 1 battery (12v) 2,500 20'-21' 50-55 1 battery (12v) 3,000-3,500 23' 70 2 batteries (24v)

If you are not fishing clear water, don't waste your money. I've had a couple over the years, and in stained water, they were basically useless. You will be lucky if you can see five feet in water less than 10 feet deep where's there's still some light. Get down much deeper and it gets too dark to even see that far. Drop a large spinner bait in the water and see how deep it gets before you can't see it. That's about how far you will be able to see with the camera in shallow water and that gets less as it gets deeper and darker. Don't think that little ring of LED's around it are going to light the world up, they do very little unless really close. I will say, it has been at least 10 years or more since I wasted money on what was supposed to be a top of the line one, so they might have changed, but I seriously doubt it. I blamed the first one on trying to go cheap and bought what was supposed to be the best. That just wasted more money.