Way2slow

Sorry, but there's nothing about the block that can cause that. I would check a little better, my first assumption would be it's coming out the carburetor.

What's that old saying, "live and learn". Even using those composite (looks like nylon) strips they sell to put on your bunks can cause you to launch one on the ramp and a pain to load because the boat keeps sliding back. Might want to visit your local auto paint store and get a can of wax a silicon remover. Silicon can be tough to wash off.

Depends on how much research you do. Yes, they are fairly new. Yes they are dirt cheap. No they don't claim fast service, and yes they very much have the potential to be a scam. However, you also have to look at the fact, on the internet, one person can post a bad experience, and a 1,000 more will pick up on that and repeat it like it was theirs, but one person can post a good experience and that's it, no one says anything about that. That gives a bad experience a 1,000:1 odds of being read on the net. Then you also have those that are going to complain about any and everything and no matter what you do, they are still going to complain. You read five post about them being a scam, but one would think if they were a total scam, paypal would not allow them to use their service. I agree, they could very well be, but at the same time, I've been around long enough to know how this internet stuff works, and I was willing to risk a few bucks to see. They could very well be a new company that's suffering from the growing pains of getting started on the international market. As for bilking paypal, if they are doing business with a company that is known to be a scam, then they need to be bilked for allowing it to continue. I've posted this on here so others that might have seen that sight and wondered will be able to read a first hand experience from someone willing to risk it. If I loose a few bucks in this adventure, it's my money, not yours, and it might save some others a whole lot more. Oh, and the VD, that's what condoms are for, when taking risk you try to have some protection. Now, lets get back to keeping things clean so this doesn't get locked so I will be able to post the final results of this deal. I would like for others to know the final outcome

AmEx is my backup plan. Paypal is billed through my AmEx card. I have had two occasions where paypal tried to stick it to me and AmEx made it good and went back against paypal. The first one was some serious money that paypal tried to say I authorized that someone using their guest sign-in sent themselves. It took a month of battling with them, finally AmEx told them where to go and credited it back to my account. I closed out my account with paypal for several years, but it's tough buying on line without them. To be honest, I'm fully expecting this to be a scam, but it's not a lot of money and it will be like getting three rods for the price of ones if it pans out. When the reward is good enough, I'll take risk. I just received some stuff I got through backing a Kick- Start startup, I invested $300. Received $800 worth of electronics items if I had waited to see if their startup was going to make a go of it.

Net store "Sale Fishing Rods" has prices that are unreal (from China I assume). Came across them looking for some cheap spinning rods to replace a couple of bream rods that are too far gone or broken. Eagle rods that are $60+, plus shipping were over half price with free shipping. I ordered three last month, they said up front at least three weeks before shipping. Got an email today saying they shipped, sorta surprised me. Gonna surprise me even more if they show up at my door. The deal was through paypal, so I felt a little better about it, but still have my doubts. I figured I would use this purchase to test the waters because they have remarkable prices. Also, they may be shipping this cheap order as sucker bait for a larger order. I will let ya'll know if they actually show up. Reviews from the past seem to indicate they probably won't, but I'm thinking paypal will cover it if not. That might also be wishful thinking based on past experience with paypal. It would take several more cheap orders before I would even consider trying a more expensive one. i

Electrical is easy and straight forward. Just be sure you use wire and components that match the circuit you are working on. There are some basic rules you need to follow but a little research on the net will give you all the info you need. Now, in a town/area with strict building codes, you have to be careful. So far, got lucky with the hand. Initial review by hand surgeon says bone is broken but it's still in good alignment. If it stays. they won't have to do surgery on it. Go back this morning for another look. In a few days when they take the stitches out, they are going to put it in a hard cast for five or six weeks, that's gonna suck. I'm left handed, but use my right hand for 90% of the time and have had more of a problem doing stuff than I did when they did surgery on my left hand that put it in a cast for almost three months.

As many on here know I'm pretty much a fix it yourself type person, but that is getting more and more difficult. Not because of ability, but because of the quality of parts you get to try and fix it. Since we have gone from and industrialized nation to a consumer nation, the junk we are getting is near useless. I've been doing a lot of electrical work on my pontoon, adding flood lights, led lights trying to upgrade the wiring. The more I do, the more I feel sorry for those that don't have the knowledge and skills I have and depend on what parts they get to be suitable. After all, that's what they are made for, right! WRONG, they are made to look like something you need. I ordered some crimp-on connectors off ebay, used a couple to get me out of a bind, until I could get some good ones, and threw those in the trash. I had to solder those they were of such thin and poor quality and forget the spade connectors having a firm grip. I ran 4ga wire from the TM batteries to the TM Plug, plus a 8ga for the 24 volt flood lights I installed for night fishing, and 8ga wire from the cranking battery to the console for all the 12 volt stuff. I sure was glad I already had these cables because finding them I fine stranded pure copper would have been trouble and very expensive. Most of what I could find was this copper coated aluminum junk. Which I did have to order a 100ft roll of that in a 16ga for my led lights because the copper wouldn't be available until August. So I will have to pull out what I've done when I get the copper. Because I'm running 12 volt and 24 volt off the same Main Power switch on the console, I had to use relays to control them. Picked up two 30 amp, five pin relays at the local parts store. One failed the first trip, the other failed the second trip. I didn't have the sockets for them at the time so I decided to order two with sockets. Go on good old ebay and looked through all their lies at what they had listed. Claims of 80 amp relays with the socket, the sockets have 16ga wire. A true 80 amp relay is a Starter solenoid, not a 5 pin plug in relay, 16ga wire might handle 7 amps if it's for a short run, 80 amps would vaporize it, but you see listing after listing of those. Finally called Digikey and got what I needed. It's seems no matter what you get today for parts is a cheap imitation of what you really need It's time to redo the brakes on my wife's highlander, it's seems there is only one manufacture in the US that makes brake rotors. and past experience with those other countries, the first time you brake hard and heat them, they warp and you get that wheel chatter every time you stop. The problem there is you don't know a good one from a junk one. Price means nothing, some sellers just sell the super cheap things for more money to my you thing it's going to be a better part, it's not. It gets down right disgusting when you are trying to do something right, and can't get the parts to do that. Don't look like I'm gonna have to worry about any of it for a while. Just got back from the ER. had a grinding disk explode, shattered a bone in my right hand and had to have a few stitches. Gotta call Ortho tomorrow, probably going to need surgery. Just so glad I had a leather welding glove on or it would have been much worse. Imagine what that would have looked like without the welding glove being on it.

Usually, you can tilt one all the way up and sit if on the rest if not power tilt and can take the plugs out no problem from inside the boat. I say no problem, but make sure you have a spare or two in the boat, just in case one takes a dive. I mentioned I push my control lever further forward, mine is a console mounted control on a pontoon boat and has a release button to disengage the shifter for cold start/fast idle. Yours may only have the lever you pull up for fast idle. You just want to try getting as much fresh air as you can into it when flooded.

The term vapor lock is usually associated with the fuel in the fuel lines or carb bowls getting so hot it boils and the vapor pressure pushes the fuel out of the lines or bowl, so there is no liquid fuel in their. I've never had that problem with an outboard. Usually what you have with an outboard is referred to as heat soak. That's where the block is warm enough to make the fuel in the crankcase evaporates out. Normally, when you shut an engine off, some residual fuel stays in the crankcase, so when you go to start it up again, there is plenty of fuel vapor to make it fire right up. With heat soak, the engine is too warm when you cut it off, and after is sits for several minutes, all or most of that residual fuel has evaporated. A more common symptom of this is when you go running balls to the wall, kill the engine as you are getting into your spot, jump up and drop the TM and fish. Then when you hammer down to take off again, the motor dies. Holding the primer in for a few seconds when starting off prevents the motor from dying. That's heat soak. Now, in your case, it sounds like you were not priming it properly, or your primer is not working properly because a healthy dose of gas will should let the engine start. When you hold the key in to prime it, it's only pumping gas into the crankcase with the engine is cranking over, so you have to be holding the key in and cranking it at the same time. I happen to have a 2006 90hp Merc and if yours is anything like mine, there's a fine line between priming it and flooding it, which happens very easily with mine. If mine starts and shuts off, and don't won't to start again, it's flooded. I have to push the handle forward a lot more, and be ready to pull it back in a hurry, crank it over for several seconds without priming it anymore and it fires up. So, the question is, did you maybe not prime it enough and are you sure your primer is working properly, or did you over prime it and flood it. Either will cause it not to start, but it starting once on the trailer, makes it sound like you may have flooded it and it had just evaporated enough out over time and started. . Do you have a water pressure gauge on your motor? Idling long periods with low water pressure will make one over heat. Do you have a temp gauge on your motor to see how hot it was getting to. If you have not had the thermostat out you might want to pull it and make sure the gasket on it hasn't swollen and restricting water flow. When was the last time you replaced the water pump? If this motor was ever run in salt water, you might want to look at pulling all the covers off, exhaust and cylinders to make sure none of the passages are blocked with that white crud. Keep a wrench in the boat so if it does it again, you can pull the plugs out and look at them. If they are very wet, it's flooded, if they are bone dry, it's not getting enough fuel.

You can't always fault the mechanic, things happen, but trying to blow you off when you go back to them with the problem is not a good sign. Like I said, things can happen. I just recently rebuilt a 90hp mercury on my pontoon boat. The motor has idled like crap the whole time but I was waiting until I got it broke in with about 10 hours on it and no double oiled gas before I installed new plugs in it and adjust the crabs. Did that last weekend and it still didn't idle that great and it acted like #1 carb was bad, even though I had rebuilt all three. Before pulling the carbs, I decided to pull the recirculation valves first to check them, even though I had cleaned and tested them when I rebuilt the engine. Found the one for #1 cylinder totally blocked and not working. Replaced it and it idled like it was supposed to then.

Before getting into a long winded answer, how mechanical are you. You need to start with the basics first. Pull the air silencer off and make sure the carbs are fully opening with the hot foot/control lever. Check linkage synchronization, Check timing. These are all things they might have messed with when the work that was done and gotten wrong. Might want to do a compression test just for piece of mind. Next to need to do a plug dump to make sure all cylinders are burning properly.

If you get it too lean, it's going to lean spit, and that's hard on the reeds. With the motor in gear, in the lake and with the tilt set so the anti cavitation plate set so it's level with the water surface (motor is vertical) and warmed up good, I adjust mine until it idles it's absolute smoothest. Turning the screw in, until it starts getting a little rough, then back out until smoothest, then go out about another 1/16 to 1/8 turn. Please note, direction you turn depends on the carburetor, some are air mixture which turn opposite than the ones that are fuel mixture. I also run nothing but Champion plugs in OMC motors QL77 in that motor. As you have found, it also pays to run WOT for a few minutes the clean the plugs after a long idle period. Indexing the plugs helps a lot to keep them from fouling. Understand, when I say level with the surface of the water, I'm not saying it's on the surface, it's going to be a foot below the surface, but it should be on a level plane with the surface of the water. Also, if you put a small level on top of the flywheel, facing front to back, it should be level.

I don't care how tough you think you are, you cry like a baby when you loose one that's been like a family member. One of the hardest things I've ever done is take one to the vet to be put down after 17 years of being with us. I've been fortunate with the others, they all went fairly quickly without much warning and not having to make that trip to the vet.

After five scars 2 1/2 - 3" long from having skin cancers cut out, style means nothing. I want the widest brim hat with the neck cover flap on the back I can get. Very much like Captain Phil has on. Found some real nice one a couple of years ago with the neck cover flap and bought a 1/2 dozen, because they are not always easy to find like that.

I bought a neodymium mounted bar magnet about 3 1/2" long that was rated for 150 pounds to hold the blades for a knife and axe sharpener I was building. That was way too much, put and axe head or large knife on it and you have to have a pry bar to get it back off. Ordered another 2 3/4" rated for 80 pounds. It's still a fight getting an axe or large blade off but the suckers don't move once they are on there. Based on those two, I don't see how you could ever get anything off one rated at 800#, unless it's one from China they over rated the crap out of like the do most everything else. Even with my 80# one, the only way you are going to get anything off it is pull it to the edge, and that's a tug, so there is very little metal contact.

Might try Craigslist or Facebook market place. Probably going to be hard to do and seriously doubt you will get back what you have in it now. I personally wouldn't even look at or consider a boat redone by the average backyard builder. Now, you might be one of the rare ones that actually are good with metal fabrication and it's done very professionally with aluminum, but most just make a good boat junk, with a bunch of wood and extra weight.

OH!, I don't get confrontational. I have never been able to argue a subject. After about the third exchange of words, somethings going to happen if I'm still standing there. I learned early in life, if I didn't want to knock h*** out of someone, which I did a lot of in my early years, I had better back off and let someone else handle the situation. I guess that came along with getting married and having kids. I think it's called growing up. That's why I back off to a safe distance or location, and call the law. Let them sort things out. Catt, I'm the same way, I'm gonna say it, even though I know things are only going down hill after I do. Like in restaurant and the waitress has an attitude and giving bad service. My wife got mad because I commented to one, "you must not work for tips" because she sure wasn't getting much from me. I will leave a tip, but only maybe 50 cents or a dollar on a fairly large bill, just to let them know I was not happy.

Yea, I saw that after checking on if I could or not after making the post. That's why I didn't try to list anything, and there is one massive lot of them, over 6,000 in .308, and thousands of 9mm, 7mm, 6mm, 6.5mm, .45 and 45-70, .224 and numbers of others. I have two containers I can't even lift, and have a hard time just sliding them, they are so heavy. I have one large cooler full on nothing but reloading dies. I've always thought I was a gun nut but this guy had me beat, hands down. There were not many calibers he didn't have.

First off, I don't bother with being very polite. They know they are not supposed to be there, they know it's a boat ramp, not a paved place for them to setup camp, they know the dock with a big sign you have to walk by to get on it says no fishing from dock, sooo, I give them a somewhat courteous, You're gonna have to move out of my way, and give them a couple of minute to do so. If they just sit there and look at me, I've had to get line out of my TM prop and boat prop on several occasions where I drove over them, and have snatched a couple poles/rods in the water doing so. I've had one occasion where things tried to get ugly. I just backed the boat back out a little ways, dial 911 and had law enforcement take care of it. A game warden showed up (I guess he happen to be close by because it didn't take long for him to be there) and five people causing the problem got tickets. I'm actually a very nice guy most of the time, and will do anything I can to help someone, but don't p*** me off because I can turn into the biggest SOB on planet earth.

What has never made since to me is a person with great talent can spend umpteen hours making a gorgeous painting and has a hard time selling it, but some idiot can sling some paint off a brush onto something that makes no since at all, and they call it a master piece worth thousands of dollars.

Back in the early 90's we owned needle work and picture framing shop in San Antonio. I met him there, and got set up as a dealer for his prints. Getting them wholesale, I started collecting his Limited Edition numbered and signed prints. I moved from San Antonio to Georgia (after retiring from the AF) and haven't collected any since, so all mine have long been not available, other than open edition ones. It's hard to find a value on them, but when I can find one listed, they are listed for hundreds of dollars but it's rare to find of those I have for sale.

You do fantastic work. I've mentioned before, reminds me whole of of Jack Terry's work. I have a number of his signed, limited edition prints but no paintings. Those are out of my budget.

I don't know first hand because I've never had a problem with them, but I've heard moth balls make a good deterrent. Supposedly, they can't stand the smell, of course not too sure how the fish will react to lures stored in the boat that have picked up the smell either.

On the boat winch, I use the straps, don't use a rope. As an anchor rope to tie the boat to the bank with or use to launch with boat with, I use a 65' piece of 5/16 synthetic winch rope, I think it's rated for about 12,000 pounds and has hooks on it. It came on a wench and I took it off to put 3/8" on it.

Mostly depends on the waters you fish. Heavy boat traffic with big wakes or big water under windy, white cap conditions requires the motor be two or three feet deep. When the bow is pitching up and down under those conditions, if it's not deep enough, it stays out of the water more than in and makes it almost impossible to control the boat. But there is a bad side to having a motor that goes that deep. When fishing calmer, shallow water, you will want the motor up to about foot or so deep, then you have the head of the motor sticking way up and tends to get in the way. When transom mounted on a jon boat, I want it deep enough I can spin the motor 360 degrees without the prop hitting the bottom of the boat. On a bow mount, if I rarely, almost never fish rough water, I try usually want one that the head is not more than a foot up, so I do have the option of dropping it down some if the water gets a little rough.