Way2slow

I have one someone converted to percussion cap and I want to convert it back to flintlock. It's just going to be wall decoration and not intended to shoot but I like the looks for the flintlocks over percussion types. My problem is, this is probably an older reproduction and I can't identity it and it's larger than any locks I can find on the web. The lock in it is approximately 6 3/16" long and 1 1/8" high. It very similar to the French 1822 but a carbine version. The barrels on 37" long, and it has no barrel bands on it. I can't find any info on the size locks in the 1822. Dixie Gun Works, said I would have to mail them the lock before they could help, which I hate doing because if it get lost, I'm screwed. Anybody have anything with a lock that big and can tell my what theirs is? Update: I've about 95% nailed it down to being a 1795 Springfield Musket, but still having problems identifying the parts.

The more grease you can get into the hub when you first install the bearings, the less you have to add later. The air in the hub should work out through the vent hole as you are towing the trailer, so you have to keep adding a good bit of grease every trip. Once the air is out, they will usually keep the disc the fitting is in floating, so a small shot just before you launch is all it should take. If they are floating, you don't even need that small shot. That's why I like the red eye caps. It's a lot easier to see if they are full or not with just a quick glance. Bearing buddies, most of the time you have to use something to push on one side of the disc to see if it's floating or bottomed out. If it's bottom out, it pays to make the float before dumping that warm hub in that cold water. Yea, this all sounds like a lot of work just to put a boat in the water, but once the air is out, some times I could go several trips without having to add grease, and it only takes a small shot when you do need to. Now, once they are full, adding too much grease is what cause the to come off when towing. It was asked how I take them off. I tap them slightly to one side, and then the other. And I mean slightly. Just enough I can get off the seat and so I can get a 1/2" blade screw driver (with a square shaft) between the hub and the cap. I then use a 12" adjustable and twist the screwdriver a little on each side, going back and forth until it comes of. Beating them off from side to side will cause them to fit too loose fairly quickly. The pic of the wheel, that's grease coming out of the Bearing Buddies. They make rubber bra's you can slide over them to help prevent that, if you insist on putting too much in them. If you are smart, you will keep you old caps or a spare BB in the boat or vehicle. Nothing like showing up at the lake after a long haul to see nothing but a greasy nut and cotter pin in the hub. Then you have the fun of launching the boat, and hoping enough water doesn't get in to burn it out before you can get back home.

If it starts and runs with gas or starting fluid spayed (I would recommend using 50:1 gas) in the carbs and won't without it, you have a fuel delivery problem. That's somewhere between the fuel tank and the inside of the cylinders. You can pull a line off a carburetor, crank it over and see if it has a good flow of fuel there, if so, then pull the carbs off and clean/rebuild them. If not pull the fuel pump and carbs off, and clean and rebuild them and make sure it has good fuel delivery to the fuel pump. If you are not extremely familiar with doing carbs, have a professional do them or you most likely won't fix the problem. Also, as mentioned previously, replace the water pump. By the way, it takes the proper fuel to air ratio to get combustion. Wet plugs could mean it's getting too much fuel and wet fouling the plugs. Again, a carb problem. One is not going to start with wet fouled plugs no more than one that's getting no fuel.

I didn't know that. I've had sets that came on trailers I pulled off numbers of times. I guess it's determined by how you remove and install them. However, when I buy a set, I normally buy the Red Eye bearing covers instead of the Bearing Buddy. I've always liked them better. The biggest thing is not to over fill them. That will make the grease push them off when the warm up.

I'm not saying no to replace the rear seal. I seriously doubt you could get the rear bearing out to clean and pack it without damaging the seal. My seals get replaced every time I clean and pack the bearings, which is usually once a year. I was just saying to make sure the seal surface area on the spindle is smooth and does not have s seal grove worn into it. I don't even use a seal puller, I just go in from the front with something to knock the bearing out, and that takes the seal out with it.

Make sure you check the shoulder at the back of the spindle, not the spindle itself. The shoulder at the back is the surface the seal rides on. It must be smooth and no seal grove in it.

I suspect you have a rear seal issue. Make sure there is not a seal grove cut into the spindles on the axle. If there is, you need to get you some repair sleeves. Also make sure they didn't get bits of weld slag on the spindle where the seal runs. It should be a nice, smooth surface all the way around. As mentioned, the hubs heat up on the trip and when backed into the cold water, it creates a vacuum effect that can pull water in, but good seals should prevent this. Bearing buddies will help, but will not cure it completely if the seals a causing the problem. The trick to using bearing buddies is to have a grease gun with you and after a long tow, before backing into the water, give each one a shot of grease. Enough to ensure the center is floating in the springs but not so much you push the centers all the way out. That causes them to make one greasy mess as it pushes the grease out the relief hole and can cause the grease to blow them off on the highway. With the center floating in the springs, when you back into the water, the grease has room to contract so it does not create the suction that pulls the water in. If everything is good, you should only have to do bearings once a year. In the fall after you have made your last trip is a good time. Waiting until spring, if there's water in them, it rust the bearing over the winter and you have to replace them.

Luv to hear the brags. I think we all need to sing out appraises when we have a kid that turns out trying to do good. So many of them take the wrong road in life or just quit trying the first time they hit a stumbling block. Nobody has bragged any more than I have about my granddaughter.

Yeap, another first, the wife asked if I wanted to go fishing today.

Teal, want to post a cool video. Put one on of your plant turning a tree for the veneer down to a fence post in no time. GP had a plant in Savanah I serviced some of their equipment and that process amazed me.

Low and slow, 12 to 16 hours minimum for a 100 pound farm raised, pastured pig. Don't want nothing to do with the pork from these maga growers than pump them full of growth hormones' steroids and junk food. I also want the skin on, even if doing just a ham. I bake a ham in the wood fired oven that taste great, and it has to have the a lot of fat and skin on it or you would have a lot of black meat.

Thanks A-Jay. I'm glad there are civilians that appreciate what the Armed Forces and Law Enforcement does for the country. However, there are a lot that don't or could care less, and a hellava lot of them have been elected to office in Washington. So, you have to wonder why the people would care when the government don't. The military and law enforcement is like insurance. Everybody loves having it when they need it, but they don't won't to pay for it when they don't. I know this is borderline political, so I hope it does not cause a problem. I usually don't get into this kind of stuff, but have gotten just a bit frustrated with our current affairs. If it does cross the line, please just delete of let me know and I will. So PLEASE, NOT anyone else take this any further with other comments about what I posted and get it locked out. I don't want to be responsible for a good post getting locked.

I use the same process, just different seasonings.

Sorry, I should have said, real Carolina Style BBQ. Yes, I like chicken and beef ribs also. A Texan would laugh in your face if you told him real BBQ was a whole hog.

Yes, Carolina Style BBQ is vinegar based sauce, but that's where most people totally screw it up to where it's almost uneatable. They put so much vinegar in it, it feels like your mouth wants to turn inside out. Just take a swig of vinegar with a little coloring in it and you have their sauce Horrible stuff. Let me just say, I make a Carolina Style BBQ, but it's been many years since I've bought any good Carolina Style BBQ. Back in the Early 60's there was a place called Shorty's BBQ in Augusta Ga that was the last place I know of that made real BBQ with good quality, whole hogs. He later went to just doing hams, ribs and chickens, and it wasn't but a couple of years before he closed his doors. Real BBQ is a whole grain fed hog cooked 12 to 16 hours over and open pit. Not cheap hams pitched in a smoker. It's basted regularly with a special blend of salt water, with butter and a few other special ingredients. The sauce is made in a way that it does not make your mouth draw up from the strong taste of vinegar. It's all about what you have grown up with and told what was supposed to be good food. That's fine until you actually eat good food. True story, my mother was one of the worlds worst cooks. My dad (actually stepdad but I called him my dad) was a construction worker that married my mother with 6 kids while he was still a PFC in the Marines, so there were many times food was not that plentiful. We ate a whole lot of burnt dried beans. My mother would put them on, without pre soaking them, not check on them, they cooked the water out and burnt on the bottom of the pot. She would just put them in another pot, put a little vinegar in them and that's what we had. When I was 13, my mother was in a car wreck that put her in the hospital for a couple weeks so her sister came to stay with us to help out. Since beans were about all that was there, she cooked a pot of beans. We would not eat them. My aunt asked what was wrong with them, they were good. My dad told her, "they are not burnt and the kids had never had beans that were not burnt" so they didn't taste right to us.

I'm partial to Carolina Style Pork BBQ. Don't won't none of the sweet, brown sugar sauce stuff. Lived in Texas six years, and never did get used to their sweet BBQ. The one I like best is the one I make. When I retired from the AF did a big BBQ diner for all the people I worked with. There was not one of them that didn't tell me that was the best BBQ they had ever ate. One was near retirement himself and owned a restaurant. He tried to talk me into going into business, and he would finance it for a partnership. He didn't realize how much work and how expensive it is to make really good BBQ. So much so, you would have a hard time making it worth the work, you would be working for almost nothing if you was going to be competitive.

It took me a long time to feel comfortable with being retired. I was always thinking I should be doing something, or doing something you want to do and feeling like there's something else you should be doing. At first, you will be coming up with different things to do because you are just looking for something to do. After a while, that passes, it's worse than when you were working, trying to find time to do something you need to do.

When the price does not follow inflation, the quality is usually going down. When you go in BPS and pay the retail price for a reel that cost $25, it probably cost less than $4 to make the that reel. Not much room in that for quality. My son's wife's brother in law is the head engineer with TRICO wiper blades. I was talking to him about this and he said the most expensive blade they make, the ones you can pay $30 or more for in a parts store, cost them $3.27 to make (they are made in Mexico).

Back when I was messing with this stuff a lot more, this was about the best source for boat parts around. They bought up old inventory from builders. Don't know about now. https://www.candomarine.com/

First thing I would check is making sure the butterflies in the carbs are going fully horizontal, (wide open when the throttle is fully advanced. Next I would pull the plugs and see if all four are the same color. If one is off, especially if it's still new looking, it's not firing on that cylinder. There are a couple other checks you can do, but I'm not sure of your expertise and these are the two most common causes.

With so much of this "stuff" we get today, they would probably want to pay me not to post what I think about it.

Well, here's her initial display. I've got to make a her a very nice flute to go behind the eagle and the long bow will go above the top frames. The frames will be remade but that's down the road.

You have to kinda feel for the guy. He's in pretty bad shape health wise and has no family of really close friends. He was an avid outdoorsman is whole life and has just loads of stuff that's probably going to get tossed. He has one room he calls his critter room where he has some nice mounts in a display case to show them in a natural setting. The case was built too large to get out of the room. He was suggesting I take them, several red foxes, bobcats, a coyote and a few others. I had to turn him down, first I'm not into mounting anything, and two, I really wouldn't have a place to put them. He has sold bunch of guns at give away prices, reloading equipment and supplies and just loads of other stuff, simply because he has nothing he can do with it. He still has loads of nice stuff, artifacts and just soooo much he's got to get rid of. He want's to sell his house also, so almost everything he has, has to go. I'm going over next week to pick up a custom made long bow and a couple of other things I'm buying from him. He tried to give me the bow, and I told him I just could feel good about myself if I took it, and there were a couple other things I was interested in but only if he would take some money for them.

My problem is, I have a degree in electronics, and have been involved in electrical and electronics trouble shooting for over 50 years from very sophisticated equipment to industrial maintenance and very good at it. So, if I sound a little short and sarcastic, I really don't mean to be, I'm really not that type. It's just what seems simple basics to me, having done it most of my life, is probably not even in someone else thought process I have several old LCD units that still work, but are basically unusable because of the displays turning black on them. Some are only a few years old. I just pitch them on the shelf with the other junks that I can't seem to throw in the trash, and get another.

I don't understand why you would even think Garmin could help if you are not getting power to the unit. They don't have a clue how you boat works. If there is no power to the unit, that's a boat problem. If you have an electronics background I would think you would have a VOM or multimeter of some sort and know a little of how to use it. My basic rule In trouble shooting, is to go from a known good to the unknown. Meaning, your only known good source for a battery negative (ground) is on the negative battery post and the only known good positive source is on the positive battery post, so you should start there and work out from there taking voltage readings at different points until you get to where you need the voltage. You should do each side that way. Leave the negative test lead on the battery and check for positive voltage at different points to see if you have it all the way or where you are loosing it. Then do the negative, leaving the positive test lead on the positive post and move the negative lead to different points to ensure you are getting a reading and you have a ground all the way to where you need it. That 2 amp fuse you are looking for is usually on the power cable going to the unit. Never heard of a 125 but my first thought is, with possibly a 20 year old unit, I would consider just tossing it and getting something a little better, but until you figure out where to get power to it, another unit is not going to help. I'm surprised the display isn't so black you can't see it anyway.