Way2slow

Use something like this for your heat shrink tubing. https://www.amazon.com/Wirefy-200-Heat-Shrink-Tubing/dp/B089D82FLG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Industrial+Heat-Shrink+Tubing&qid=1624227866&s=industrial&sr=1-2-spons&ts_id=700782011&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSkYySUQ3R1c4QVVUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTU5ODIxMkNQSFBORlhZUlRJQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzYwOTY2M0ROSzRINks3V0xKTSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= Also note: I just used these as an example, there are many types and sources besides the example I used. I buy it in about 4' sticks the size and color I want. DO NOT order those cheap connectors off ebay or else where. If you do, you definitely have to solder them. I pulled that stunt and ended up throwing them in the trash. They are so thin, there's not enough metal in them to make strong crimp. Just to get out of a bind, I pull the insulator off, crimped and soldered the few I had to have and trashed the rest. If you are going to depend on just crimping, make sure you get a good quality connector from a reliable source, NOT ebay. I usually order mine from Digi-Key or Mouser.

When you can make the quality of crimps the aircraft and automotive industry in a factory controlled environment, I might tend to agree. However, I don't know of many average Joe boat owners that would have or even have access to anything that would even come close. For the control wires on my RC stuff, I have a specialized crimper I paid $80 for just to crimp small connectors on small wires, because if you solder them, they won't gone into the housing. I have a $800 crimper set for large terminals, with specialized jaws for each type and size terminals I used in my electric fork lift repair days. Not many average guys gonna have something like that. However, soldering also requires a certain amount of skill and know how also, that most don't have. If the wire is not bright, clean copper, it's not going to solder properly. Even on bright clean copper, I always use a rosin flux. When you strip a wire back, and the copper is black or discolored, it's not going to let the solder bond to it. A condition very common with cables that have been connected to a lead acid battery or exposed to the elements like trailer lights and boat stuff. Now, I will pass on a little trade secret I learned many years ago with the electric fork lifts and replacing battery connectors and ugly wire. Strip it back, loosen the strands up a little, dip it in muriatic acid for a couple of seconds and the in a water with baking soda solution for a couple of seconds to neutralize the acid. Wire is clean as a whistle and solders like a breeze. With umpteen years experience installing/replacing most any kind of connector on all kind of wire, I will still stick by my method of making a good mechanical connection (in this case, a crimp) and then solder it after crimping for the average person without the specialized crimping tools need to make solid crimps. That little thing that comes in a terminal kit is not, and the ones you buy for $20 or so ain't gonna do it either.

If there is any wiring up in the front of the boat, make sure it's pulled up and fasted as mush as you can get it out of the way. If you have the rod tubes in there, take them out and use those rod socks that look like they are made out of same stuff as those Chinese Fingers on all the rods. Unless you can come up with a rod locker stretcher, not much you can do beyond that. unless you want to start using shorter rods, two piece rods or telescoping rods.

Soldering DC connections is always preferred but there is one rule you should always follow when soldering. Make a good mechanical connection before you solder the connection. This means when using crimp on connectors, crimp them first, then solder. If you need to use butt connectors to make the splice, again, crimp them then solder them. Since I don't even own a Weller gun, I can't say for sure, but I would think it would have a hard time believing it would get a connecter of much size hot enough. I have a 150 watt iron I have used but when they get much size to them, I just use a BenzOMatic tourch, just don't try using it to heat the wire or put heat directly on where you want to solder. Also, make sure you put your heat shrink far enough away that it does not get hot enough to shrink while soldering the terminal.

Without the motor on the back working as a skeg/rudder, you will need to add one. You can make one out of most anything that will stick down in the water about a foot deep and 10" wide. Have it so you can tilt it up when in shallow water. Also, try to balance the weight in the boat. If there's no weight in the rear, it's going around. Same as if all the weight is in the rear, the front is going around.

The best treatment of chiggers is a good defense. The defense depends on just how bad you want to keep from getting bit. First, a wearing a pair of woman's panty hose help greatly. Trust me, you can laugh about the panty hose, but I've seen a lot of the baddest people on the planet not hesitate to put them on when going into areas known to be infested with chiggers (red bugs). Next blousing you pants at the angles and spraying them with a high concentration of DEET. Tucking your shirt in and spraying around the waist and up the front if it buttons, with the DEET. Wear a long sleeve shirt and spray around the cuffs with the DEET. All openings in your clothing is sprayed with DEET. If you are sweating your butt off because it's hot and humid, re-apply the DEET every hour or so. Back in the early 80's I spent two months on at training exercise at Camp Robinson Arkansas low crawling around in some of the most chigger infested grass lands in the country. There were guys sent to the hospital because of them. They literally did not have spot on their body that was not infested with chigger bites. I never got a bite. Since I was one of the instructors, I briefed everyone about them and how to prepare. Those that failed the head the advise given, suffered missilry. Now, for gnat's, an old redneck trick is just to cut a hole in the seat of your britches. That gives them a place to go besides your face. Realistically, you can either keep you hair, hat and collar sprayed with DEET, or just wear a mesh mosquito and gnat screen over your head.

Never done a 150' but done plenty 15'-25' using the winch to let it down and pull it up. and had to leave the wench cable down there so we could use it to help climb back up. That's was only with 17' canoe and 14' jon, nothing the size he's dealing with.

Sorry, didn't like what I posted.

There is no magic wand we can wave around to fix it, or crystal ball we can look into and say "this is your problem" Go through the basic trouble shooting procedures and tell use what you find. The very first is make sure the butterfly is opening to fully, and not going past fully open. Then do a compression test. There should be no more than a 10% difference between the highest and lowest reading. Trouble shooting is a systematic process. There are steps you will need to take in the process as we try to help. Without that, take it to a professional that can troubleshoot and maybe fix it for you.

Simple problem, either the motor is not making the power it should Or, the prop is not transferring the power to the water as it should. Now, all you have to do is figure out which one. If it has run great in the past and just started doing this over night. Most likely a bad cylinder on the engine. If it slowly progressed, then checking the compression would be my first step. However, there are a ton of things that can cause a motor to loose power, besides compression, but it get's into engine smarts and know how to get much beyond compression test. Another possible cause could be a damaged prop. A friend of mine called me from California last year saying his 225HO was not running as good as his 225. I told him to take the flywheel off the 225 and put it on the HO. He doubted me and said he thought I was nuts, but he did it anyway. Guess what, it ran great and like an HO should after doing it. Finding problems like that only comes with experience, and I had run into that problem twice before, and have to thank a friend that was a lead instructor with OMC for telling me a common cause of that problem was a weak magnet in the flywheel. Now, don't go replacing your flywheel, the only motor I've ever run into this problem on is the OMC looper engines. This was just to show you how hidden the problem can get.

Weedeater. Kinda like how many know what a hosepipe is. Years back while I was in the AF and stationed in VA, a guy that worked with me went to Fort Gordon in Augusta GA for a school. He came back asking who knew what it was. At Fort Gordon was the first time he had ever heard of one and didn't know what it was.

Not very likely you will find a wiring diagram for an 80's model boat. Shoot, sometimes it's hard to come up with one for a new boat. Gauges usually run off the key switch. I would suggest you find you a multimeter/VOM and learn how to use it, sounds like your going to need it.

I've put on ton of hours on motors run on fossil based oil. Until the late 90's or so, that's basically all there was. It wasn't until the DFI motors starting showing the synthetic blends started showing up, and they were expensive. With proper TLC and a little decarbing a couple times a year and you have no problems. It's just those that don't do a decarb about every 50 hours that start eating the rings and cylinders up. I probably put a 1,000 hours ( we went through 18 - 24 gallons a day) with QuickSilver on a mid sixty's 65 hp merc I bought new when I was 16 and ran the total crap out of it water skiing every weekend for about three years, but I kept it properly maintained. Nothing wrong with QuickSilver oil. Just give the motor the care it needs. I will say, now I only run synthetic or synthetic blends when no full synthetic is available. If I couldn't find a blend, I still would have no problem running Quicksilver in my 2006 90hp ELPTO (2 Stroke with oil injection) Merc.

I guess it's a matter of how long you want your engine to last and how much extra care you want to put into it. All oils are not the same. Fossil oils create carbon buildup, which causes more wear to rings and cylinders. Back in the early 2 stroke days when they ran plain old 30W non detergent oils at a 25:1 ratio, you were lucky to get a few hundred hours out of a motor. Then they developed oil just for two strokes that ran a 50:1 ratio and they were getting 500-800 hours. Still the fossil oil but better additives, and the finally got them to where you could get 1,000 hours with proper care and if they were decarboned every 50 hours or so. Then they came up with the synthetic blends, which reduced the carbon build up and finally the full synthetics. Those helped in the development of the Direct Fuel Injected (DFI) motors because of the very little carbon deposit to worry about clogging up the injectors and much better wear protection. Now, if you have a DFI motor, and you want to run fossil oils in them, go for it. Later on, you can start posting what a piece of crap that brand motor is because it's costing you a ton of money or you finally got rid of it for another brand. I think most manufactures will tell you to run nothing but 100% synthetic in their DFI and their synthetic blend in most everything else. I don't think any of them would recommend a fossil oil since the blends came out. However, it all boils down to my old saying. "It's my motor and I can run what ever I dang well please".

I'm just trying to figure out what the heck an air compressor reed plate is on a two stroke motor. Like I said, not much on Merc's but never heard of such and animal on a two stroke motor. Yes, they have a reed plate, but don't know of any kind of compressor on them. Not saying there's not, that's just a new one on me. I hope you don't let them jack the price up with the claims of a reman'd power head. No matter what they claim, it's still a used 2016 motor and that's all it's worth. Actually, I would make them discount it because you are the one that's has to go through the stress and aggravation of breaking it in and wondering if it's going to be a good motor or not.

Reman'd power head is an extremely exaggerated term in many cases. It depends on who did it. If it's a certified Mercury remanufactured power head with the paper work from Mercury and they did the work, it's probably remanufactured. It used to be when Mercury did them, they pulled the sleeves and installed new sleeves, pistons, bearings. Any part there was any question about, it was replaced, so basically what you got was a new powerhead. Now, if that's still their policy or not, I don't know. The thing you run into so many times, if they go into it and just repair what was broke, then they pawn it off as a remanufactured power head, which it the furthest thing from the truth. Now, if they are expecting you to break it in, what kind of warranty are they providing. Normally, a reman'd power head will come with a 12 month warranty. If you are one of these that think they can park a boat in the fall with a little stabil in it, and go run it again in the spring with the same old gas in it, I would strongly suggest you stay away from a DFI. Injectors don't like that crap at all. "Air Compressor reed plate"??. Is this a two stroke or a four stroke motor. I'm not much with Merc's but I though the Pro X was a two stroke and the Verado was the four stroke.

Put the price you think you would like to have for it. If the first person that looks at it buys it without haggling, figure you sold it too cheap If it take a few days and a few people to sell it, you had it about right. If you still have it after a couple of weeks and have no hits on it, you want too much.

Also, forgot to mention, check the fuel tank. If there was any gas left in it the last time it was used, there's probably a pretty good layer of tar in the bottom of the fuel tank that has to be gotten out. Ethanol gas is going to slowly dissolve it and keep your fuel system a total mess.

Take out the fitting and put a plug in there. Add oil to the fuel tank at a 50:1 ration (16oz for 6 gal of gas) before you add the gas and that will flush it on down into the tank and mix it as you add the gas. A couple of other things. I hope you rebuilt the fuel pump, if not it would be smart to do that. When you said you replace the hoses that had fallen off, I hope you replaced all the fuel lines. If you didn't replace the water pump, pretty good chance you might fry the motor the first trip you make. Even if the blades stay on it, they are going to have so much of a set in them, they are not going to do much pumping. It would also pay you to change the lube in the lower unit.

Speedometer speed is normally useless, way too inaccurate to really tell much about the true speed. It's pretty common to loose a couple MPH when going from the three to a four blade prop because of the extra drag the fourth blade creates, especially in and aluminum prop because of how thick they have to make the blades. Plus your current prop could have some damage that's causing extra slip. If you had an accurate gps speed, you could go into one of the prop calculators and see what percent of slip you have with one versus the other. The less the slip, normally the better the fuel economy. I'm thinking a 13" pitch is probably a bit too small. That in a three blade is what's on my 24' pontoon that weighs 4200 pounds and only has a two stroke 90. For almost a 1,000 pounds of bodies, and other gear, I've just ordered a four blade 11" pitch to try. However, going by your numbers, they support going one size down. If max speed is what you are looking for, you need to consider SS props. However, no matter what prop you use, you are probably talking about 2 to 3 miles per hour difference, at about $150 per mph.

I've been sorting through several thousand bullets (just the projectiles, not loaded rounds) I picked up today. There's probably 2K - 3K .308, 30 caliber. 1,000 of just 150gr round nose, and close to that in 170gr round nose. The only 30cal I have is one 30/30 I haven't shot in 40 years. When I get a full inventory of what I do have, I'm thinking of posting it in the Flea Market. There are also a bunch of 400gr 45's and some 45/70 I won't have a need for. There are only a few .224 so those I will keep so don't consider those. The bulk of them are Hornady and Remington, with a few Winchester and Sierra mixed in. There was probably 10,000 - 20,000 pieces of brass in various calibers but someone had stolen that before I could get back to it. The only reason I got the bullets, they were some what hidden, and they couldn't see them.

From 1976 to 1980, I was doing most of the sound equipment warranty repair work in northern Italy, and southern Germany for almost all the manufactures, all the Japanese, a lot of the US and other countries. In doing so, I was able to get killer deals on most anything one could want. If a piece of equipment had a major malfunction that was going to take some time and major parts tor repair, they would just swap it out for a new piece. I would turn around and buy it for pennies on the dollar. I'm talking $25 -$35 for $400 - $500 pieces of equipment. This was all top of the line equipment back then. The nice part about that deal, I got all my repair parts free. I would just send in a list of parts I was running low on, they shipped them, so It didn't cost me anything to repair. Most of this equipment would be less than 30 days old. I did sell a lot of equipment on the Italian market, (a little black market dealing) and that was a nice source for extra income. So, needless to say, I wound up with some very nice stereo equipment when I left Italy. My wife is wanting me to clean out the area I have this stuff stored, so I was looking on ebay to see if it was worth anything. Surprise, Surprise, that stuff is going for ungodly prices now. Pioneer Turntables, $750, Kenwood Amps $500, Teac 4 channel Real to Reals, $700, and the list goes on. This stuff is still like new and most is still in the factory boxes. If the wife saw that, I would never hear the end of it, until it was all gone, which I have decided when I get time to go through each piece for sound and quality checks, it will go. Which also still have a major stash of circuit boards and repair parts for all of it.

After tons of research and asking, I finally narrowed it down to be an authentic French1763 Charleville, which is the same gun Springfield Armory copied to make the 1795, so the both look almost the same, and most parts will interchange. No documentation to prove it, but there is a good chance it was a Confederate, Civil war rifle. About 80 thousand of them were converted to percussion locks and used by the confederate solders in the civil war. This one has the same style conversion most of those they used had. However, that's all a pipe dream without documentation, and since someone ground off the most of the marking on the lock, the only way I could identify it as an Authentic Charleville, is by the screws. The ones that hold the lock in have some special markings, and they are a non standard metric that was used back then. There is also one marking on the outside and one marking on the inside of the lock the Charleville's have. I have not pull the barrel to see if it has the markings on the bottom of it because it really is not going to matter. The fact most all markings are ground off, the barrel has been shortened to 37" and stock cut back into a carbine style, pretty much ruins it and no documentation connecting it to the Civil War, it's a nice conversation piece hanging on the wall. I've got some parts in and others on order to convert it back to a flintlock. I think they make better looking wall hangers than percussion's.

There is one flaw in your math. A 105 Amp hour (Ah) battery is only rated at 105 Amp hour with about a 5 amp draw on it. They use the 20 hour rating. So, if you only drew 5 amps off the battery you could use your math. Not very realistic. As the current draw increases, the Ah capacity decreases. The exact formula for that, I don't have, it can vary somewhat with the type battery, but it is a rather significant reduction. At 33 amps, it could be as much 25%. If you use the Reserve Minutes (RM) rating, that will get you a little closer to a realistic number. The Duracell batteries are made by EastPenn and they use a 23 amp rating, some companies use a 25 amp. What that means is a fully charged battery will run the RM time with a 23 amp draw before it's fully discharged. Now, since it's harmful to most batteries to fully discharge them, you need to reduce that RM time by about 20 - 25%, the leave some charge in the battery. By then, you are going to be moving so slow, they are almost useless anyway. Then you have to figure if you are going to be drawing 33 amps, then you have to reduce it another 10 or 15% So, what you have is some batteries that are closer to about 75Ah instead of 105Ah if you plan on running them at a 33 amp draw, and then leaving at least a 20% charge in them, you find your run time is a whole lot less than your math says it is. You actually went the wrong direction when you went with AGM's if you wanted max run time. An AGM, group 31 is a 105Ah, a group 31 in a good flooded cell is about 130Ah. The lead acid battery that's going to give you the absolute most run time, is the Trojan SCS225 but you are not going to run down to Sam's Club and buy one of those for $175. There's not a lead acid battery on the planet in a similar size battery that's going to beat it. I just noticed the chart you had with speed and amp is for a 80# 24V. If your 36V 112# motor is 50 amps, that's a huge load and you can reduce my numbers even more

I used to have my axle's aligned when on any trailer I had that I pulled very much or far. The problem you run into now, nobody knows how. It takes an old shop that has the equipment and know how to bend straight axles. Those are few a far between since they went away from straight axles in trucks back in the 60's. Todays shops have to be able to put the vehicle in their computer and let it tell them what to do, they don't have a clue if it's not in the computer.