Way2slow

I would think you would have to take the seat base out. That is usually one piece of molded plastic and the back and cushion are attached to it. The back is screwed into it, the seat is screwed into the boat at under the cushion and then the cushion is screwed in. As you have already found out, there is a big old fuel tank right behind that piece of fiber glass so don't go trying to poke hole or put screws in it. Also be very careful with the part the seat is sitting on. I have seen L shaped tanks in them and part of the tank was under it also. Screw the tank up and a lot of times, the cap has to come off to get it out.

Most good, onboard chargers have a maintenance mode and are intended to be left on when the boat is not being used. I have a commercial charger that's not only a maintainer, but cycles the batteries every 30 days if they have not been used.

Yep, normally that's the case, but, as I mentioned before, with the right research it can pay to take a chance. Like I said, there was not a lot of money involved, and if the sight had paned out, it would have been a good deal. I've done a lot of deals that sounded too good to be true that made or saved me a lot of money, and have been burned a few times. Would I risk a large sum of money on a possible sucker deal, no way. However, when I feel it's worth the risk, I will chance it. Like getting the down load version of MS Office Pro 2019 for less than $50. I did some research and it was about 50/50 being legit, but I couldn't find anything bad about the company I got it through. During the whole process of down loading, installing and registering it with MS, I was anticipating some red flag would pop up, but it ended up being totally legit. Yet, that same deal through another company I looked at would have probably been a scam. I've bought a lot of cars, boats, motors and tons of other things on deals that sounded too good to be true. Like a 2004 VW Beetle Convertible for my wife for $200, that looks and runs great and other than the tires I put on it, I have less than $500 in the car.

I drink coffee from many origins. Some I can't stand, Sumatran being one of those at the top of my list. I like my coffee in a what many call a medium roast. A small lesson in roasting. Coffee goes though several metabolic stages during roasting. At some point, around 380F it goes through what is referred to as it's first crack and it's a very light brown color. It's really not very drinkable until after this point or it tastes more like straw/dirt. Just at the end of the first crack is were the roast is stopped for the buyers to do their sample taste testing because this is where is will have it more pronounced origin flavors, but can be very acid and somewhat bitter, and almost no body. Close to what some refer to as a City Roast. Some like it at this point, most prefer it roasted longer. As it's roasted longer, it starts to develop body (roast flavor). At approximately 440F, it goes through what is called the second crack. Just before or maybe a few snaps into the second crack is where I prefer my coffee. The beans still have a lot of the origin flavors, has good body, and natural sweetness. This is the point most of your Kona's and Blue Mountains are roasted to, most prefer to stop their roast just before the second crack. As you go past the second crack, is when the coffee starts loosing origin and develops body, roast flavor. Italian roast and Espresso roast is about the first you get into from that point. Once you get past that, you are getting into your French roast, where you basically have nothing but a small chunk of charcoal, very heavy on the body/roast flavor but nothing left of the origin. I think this is because with some beans, they taste so bad at the lighter roast, nobody would want to drink them. Robusta beans fit this. They are still an Arabica bean, just not a very good tasting one. They are a very large, very cheap bean most commercial coffee companies blend with their regular beans to spike the caffeine (they are very high in caffeine but taste like cardboard by themselves. A lot of espresso blends use a small amount of them also to enhance the crema (the brown foam layer on top). Another little known fact, about 5 days after roasting, beans develop their most flavor, but 14-21 days after roasting, beans start going stale when exposed to the air. Vacuum sealing and those bags with valves help promote longevity, but once they are opened try stale even quicker. Pre ground stales VERY! quickly, Unless you can freeze them to about -200 degrees, freezing don't really help much. Yes, you will see all kinds of suggestions about freezing them but the research has shown, the average home freezer doesn't do much. I usually roast once a week. That roast gets put up and I drink the roast from the week before. One other note. commercial roaster don't buy the quality beans your small specialty roaster get. The better beans are from smaller farms, sold at auction in small lots an taste tested before bidding. These beans sell for a much higher price than the large commercial companies even sell their coffee for after processing.

If you own one and plan to keep it, it's a lot cheaper to maintain it than it is not to.

If I had to guess, the model number is J8RCEC which was made in 1989.

Authentic, Blue Mountain and Kona are hard to get and expensive. Simply because there is a very small region they can be grown in, so only so much can be grown each year. The lions share of what you buy is not and authentic coffee. There are other high grown coffees that can be roasted to actually have a smoother, richer flavor, but not the "name" so they are not as well known. A lot of the green bean suppliers don't buy a lot of kona simply because most home roasters won't pay $15 - $20 a pound for the grade Kona that's available to them, when they can sell a better bean at almost half that price. Your best beans never make to commercial roasters or suppliers. The mega rich and five star hotels will buy them at auction, paying $30+ per pound for them. When you figure you loose 15% in roasting and shipping, that's some expensive coffee.

I started roasting home roasting it in 2000. After learning how and getting pretty good at it, that store bought stuff is hard to drink. Even buying whole beans out of those bins and grinding as I use them don't help. Coffee goes stale too quickly.

I have Paypal and don't trust them for a minute. They are fine as long as there are no problems and money is not going to come out of their pocket. A number of years ago, someone using a guest sign-in transferred $1,200 from my AmEx through Paypal to themselves. They gave me a little song and dance and they would check into it. Not feeling comfortable with their response, I called AmEx and reported it as a fraud. A week later, I see it's still on my AmEx. So I call Paypal again and they just say they are still working it. I call AmEx and they said they had contacted Paypal and Paypal said they had contacted me and I had approved the transfer, needless to say, that's when I came unglued. After another couple of rounds with Paypal lying through their teeth, and calls to AmEx, AmEx finally credited the money back to my card. Then Paypal had the balls to email back to me wanting the money. I closed the account for several years but finally had to open another for doing business on the net. The only credit card I have is my AmEx, which a lot of places don't take. I have a prepaid debit card I keep a small balance on for rare online situations, and for restaurants and drive throughs where my real debit card has to leave my sight. Even since opening a new paypal a couple years ago, I've had two situations I've had to contact them on, and they were not very pleasant dealings. They are not up to the idea of doing anything that's taking money out of their pocket. As for the cell phone, with the number of scammer's trying to get you any way they can, I would not be without one. Every account I have has automatic text messaging anytime there is any kind of transaction on them. As soon as I even make a $5 purchase on my debit card, within a few second I get a message showing it.

First time I've heard of that one. I've used MS-Office since it first came out, and comfortable using it. This is the first time I've ever bought it, always got it free in the military. I still have some 2010 Pro's I could have used, but figured at the price I got the 2019 I would upgrade to it.

It's hard to get a great deal at a cash register. I recently bought a new Dell XPS-13 2in1 tablet/laptop. I needed a new MS Office. I found a downloadable full version of MS-Office 2019 Pro for $49, over 1/4th of what a cash register version would have cost.

Typically, lithium charge have a balance connector that monitors each cell so each is charged fully and evenly. Now this could be built into the battery, or it could built into the charger. If they are depending on it being in the charger, it will require one with it. Also, lithium's are very critical on charging voltage, if they are expecting the charger to maintain those, it's going to require a charger designed for lithium's. It is possible they build a control board in them to control the balance and even the charging voltage to help make the more user friendly.

Final outcome! after about 10 days, I received an email saying my order had shipped but no kind of tracking number. I checked my AmEx and it has not been billed. I checked my paypal accoun and it's still in pending status.A few days later I sent them an email requesting a tracking number. That email was returned not deliverable, box was full and over the limit. I sent a copy of this to paypal plus several links saying site was a scam. Paypal could care less, there was nothing they would do, but in 30 days it would automatically be deleted if it was still pending where the company had not requested the funds. Today was the 30th day, there is no record of the transaction on my paypal account, so it looks like their computer deleted it. So be it a scam, or a defunct company, I don't know. I can say it's not a company one would want to order from.

If he's looking to go from three - four hours back to his original six hours, that's close to a 100% increase. There is not a group 31 on this planet that's going to be double the capacity of a good group 27, at the most maybe 10 - 15%. For that kind of an increase, a two battery setup is about his only practical choice. Now, it might pay to have the group 27 tested to make it's reaching it's full capacity. Of course, then you have to find someone that has enough smarts to do that. I have very little faith in most understanding enough about testing one to do that. One note. Reserve minutes/capacity has nothing to do with cranking. It's strictly based on how many minutes the battery will last with the current used to test it (usually 25 amps by most) before it's at a level considered fully discharged. The Trojan ssc225, about the best flooded cell deep cycle battery there is gets its name from the fact is has 225 minutes reserved capacity.

https://www.harborfreight.com/12v-150-psi-compact-air-compressor-63184.html?_br_psugg_q=12+volt+compressor I was given one of these several years ago. I've used it several times and actually liked it enough to buy a second one to go in my other truck.

OK, I'm the dumb**S, that's what you get when you have an OMC guy messing with a Mercury. Their trigger module is what's called a timer base to me. What I was referring to for the trigger module is their switching module, totally different animal. So, I guess that proves I'm not a black motor guy. I have had several OMC power packs and know of a couple of the "switching" modules on friends that have caused your problem. Since it's intermittent, without a dino or test prop to trouble shoot it, it makes for some very expensive guessing. Most usually just try known good parts off a good motor

OK, I tried! A little gee wiz info Yours must be some strange model because they made that motor assembly for many years and all I have seen have two. The even used That ignition system on the V-6 and it also has two. Go to Crowley Marine Mercury parts and look it up. Or, just look on the side of your motor.

my 1988 I6 115 has 2. If you are looking at a parts diagram, it only shows one, but if you look at the parts description, it shows two required. They are both just alike and one sits above the other, don't see how you missed that.

You know there are two. if you only replaced one, try the one you swapped with the other one.

That's an expensive guess. Their stator does have a high speed and low speed winding, but a trigger module breaking down can cause your problem also. One thing I learned years ago, you might want to try a new set of plug wires, and DO NOT use regular automotive wires. OEM wires are expensive but pretty much necessary with that ignition system, or you can just add another problem. I have that same motor that started that same problem while my brother was using it. He just quit running it so, since it was never trouble shot, can't help you on what was causing it.

Lithium technology has greatly improved over the years and it's fairly new to the TM market. Because of that large, upfront cost, I have not even considered doing any research on them. Now, I do have tons of experience with them, just not that large, with my Radio controlled helicopters, planes and truck. Again, the TM batteries may be plug and play, like I said, I've done zero research on them because at their price, I don't ever see owning them for no more than I'm on the water now. Just make sure you do your home work because using and maintaining them is nothing like lead acid batteries.

First, you have to realize, the numbers on an engine does not mean that's the actual hp of that engine. That's the average within 5-10% of that production model. Then you have to consider the condition and state of tune of the motor. That's just like you can take two identical new cars and one will blows the doors off the other. You say the 200 was rebuilt, if bored, especially .030" or more, that can cause a significant drop in performance. The ports in most modern two stroke engines are angled upward, so boring them drops the port height, which drops the power band and rpm of the engine, and trust me, no average rebuilder is going to spend the hours it takes with a die grinder to grind them back to specks. Then you have some production models that are intentionally built with more hp than the numbers on it say to out perform a competitor's motor. A good example was the 92 Johnson 150 FastStrike. They built it with almost 200hp until Mercury complained about it running with their 200's, so they were forced to reduce it back to specs. Others were built specifically for boat manufactures to make certain models run better than the coastguard rating would let them. So, numbers on the decals mean very little as to how the motor actually performs. Shoot, I can show you some motors the decal an serial number says they are 200hp, the dino says they are well over 300hp.

I run a good grade of blend, I don't troll and other than no wake and initial warm up, I seldom idle. There are several different brands of synthetic, just finding it local and not have to pay shipping might be the problem. When you figure close to $40 a gallon plus shipping, that's expensive. If you position the plugs so the gap is facing about 3:00 you should be fairly close. Now, to do this, it usually takes two or three sets of plugs or special washers.

For trolling, you would be better off running pure synthetic. It's pricey, so you probably would not want to use it all the time, but it's going to greatly reduce carbon. Also, you might want to look at using a 100:1 mixture for your trolling. That's what many of oil injection systems did, 100:1 at idle and 50:1 at rpm. That's how OMC came up with their VRO logo, Variable ratio oil injection. The more fossil based oil you use, the greater the carbon buildup. If running gaped spark plugs, indexing them so the opening is facing the boost port also helps. Running tier 1 gas also helps, a lot.

Actually, I think it's a stuck float needle in the carb. That would cause it to flood the engine and not restart. Also, there is carb bowl vent hole in the top of the carb. A stuck needle would cause it to squirt out of that vent hole onto the tab above it, making it look like it's coming out block. Stickley my personal thought.