Way2slow

The Intruder 175 is a Totally different motor, totally different ignition system. About the only thing they have in common is they are both two stroke outboards.

These are the best http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0001110011811a&type=product&cmCat=search&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&QueryText=connectors&N=4887&Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=connectors&noImage=0 if your looking for quick disconnect type. There are no male and female, you just buy two and they just turn over and push together. Grainger's has them for about half price for what Cabela's gets if there price is for just the one and not the pair they show. As for a crimper, they make one that you stick the terminal in and hit with a hammer. One of the welding supply places may have that one and it's not very expensive and works great. If you can find and industrial electrician the may have a set of Thomas and Betts', they look like big bolt cutters, and get him to crimp them for you. Don't look at buying those, they are about $700.

Have you checked the prop or tried another? First off, your killing that motor with way too much prop if your only turning 5,300 rpm at WOT. I don't know what size your running but it needs to be dropped two sizes. If you're running a 24, you need to try a 20. That motors needs to turn at least 5,800 - 6,000. It would be better to turn it 6,100 running lite than keep it loaded down like your doing. It's very easy to have bumped something and slightly rolled a leading eadge and loose a couple of hundred rpm, but as I said, when it was making what you considered full power at 5,300, that was still no where near what it needs to turn. Also, are you running a vented prop, it should have a controlled cavitation that would let the prop spin up and not just sit there and bog at 3,000 rpm. Having been running it loaded way down like that, have you ever done a decarb, that thing is probably heavily carboned up if not. That could be some of your problem, causing too much ring blow by. Have you done a leak down test or only a compression? What was the compression? Should be approx 90 psi on a warm motor and pretty even on all six cylinders. Bottom two will be a little less because of the head design. I'm not saying you might not have some grimlins, but I know for a fact you need a different prop to start this process. What size and type boat are you running and what size and type of prop, Raker, Renegade, Shooter etc, are you running now You need to do a spark plug check. The next time your at the lake, make a run and hold the throttle wide open for about 45 seconds or so and then turn the key switch off while still holding it wide open. If your boat gets a backwash if you stop too soon, run to the front of the boat as it starts to settle in to help minimize this. Take the cover off, trim the motor all the way up and take each spark plug out and see what color they are and if they all look the same. They should be dry and about the color of a paper bag, maybe even a little lighter. If you don't care to do this on the lake, since things have a way of ending up at the bottom of the lake, make your run toward the boat ramp and kill it befoe you get to the no wake zone and use the TM to load it on the trailer and check it there. A plug check will tell you volumes about how the motor is running and what cylinders might have possible problems. Callyer's motor runs a different ignition system than yours so don't start looking for port and starboard power packs onl yours. His run what's called the butterfly packs, seperate power packs for each side of the motor. Yours only has one power pack mounted on the top rear part of the motor. Another thing that's common to happen on these motors is a magnet or magnets in the flywhell come loose and slide together. This messes up the charge cycle and also the timing on one or more cylinders. Might want to take a flash light and look under the flywheel and make sure each of the magnets have a 7/16 space between them. You can do this without removing the flywheel if you find the right spot to see them. Just to let you know where I'm coming from, I've been building and hotrodding these motors for a number of years so I know just a little bit about them. I've got two motors and several powerheads I play with, just the biggest difference is my 200's make over 300 hp between 6,200 and 6,500 rpm and 295 pounds of torque at 4,000 rpm.

they can give a whole range of problems. They can be totally dead and not firing at all. They can be dead on one bank so only the three cylinders on one side will fire, or it can be dead on one or two cylinders (there are other things that can cause this same problem). They can start breaking down at higher rpm's. Before you blame the power pack, you need to check the coils on the stator and check the timer base. You also need to check the input voltages to the coils, could have a bad coil or plug wire if only one of two cylinders are skipping. I've had power packs that would be hard to start the first time in the morning, when you finally did get the motor started if would only be running a a few cylinders for a short spell, goose it a couple of times and all of a sudden it would come alive and all six would start firing. They would run fine the rest of the weekend but let it a couple of days and it was back to the same crap. If it is bad, Let me caution you on one thing. Only use the OM power pack, don't use the CDI by Rapair, they are not worth the time it takes to put them on and you really don't save that much. Basically how your ignition system works. You have a couple of coils on the stator than are generating a voltage. that goes to the power pack and charges a bank of capacitors. The timer base (the round black doughnut looking thing under the flyweel) controls when the capacitors discharge and fires the coil. The power pack steps that voltage up to approx 275 peak volts, (need peak reading meter or DVA to measure) and sends it to the primary of the coil. The coil steps it up to many 1000's to fire the plugs. The power pack also controls the quick start function with advance the timing approx 10 degrees for so many seconds or until the engine reaches a certain temp.

actually, Big Al's reply was a little confusing. What he said was the 115 is a four cylinder motor and your 90 is only a three cylinder motor. Now, if you could come up with a way of adding another cylinder, you might be able to do it. Four strokes are actually the hardest to modify, if not almost impossilbe. Behind them are the DFI two strokes, they can be but it takes big bucks and someone with the know how and willing to violate EPA laws against messing with them. The carb'd two strokes are the easiest. Some motors much easier than others as I mentioned above. Where you see real gains in two strokes is when the use the same motor for a number of different hp's. For instance you 90 is basically the same as the 75 so usually with just a little work, you can make a 75 and 90. However, you 90 is already near the limit for that block's available power for a stock, all around use motor. To get any more, would require porting and other mods to raise the rpm and power band. Get it up to about 8,000 - 9000 rpm and it might make 125 hp, but would have a hard time getting more than an empty jon boat up to speed to use all that rpm.

On some motors, it's like cart7 says, for instance the only difference between the 3L OMC 200's and 225's is the carbs. On other motors it's a lot more complicated than that. You can get into things like different exhaust tunners, different port timing, different bore size, different induction system and on and on. From the model number, that sounds like a 90 hp merc and I'm not much on the black motors so can't really help you with one of them. It could be just the carbs, it could be much more. I know the 135 carb motor and the 150 carb motor, the only difference is the carbs on those two. This is your best source of info for the merc motors, http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=20 On the V-4 90 hp OMC's, its what I mentioned above. The 115 has different exhaust system, different porting and I think bigger carbs so it's not pratical to try and change a 90 to a 115.

If you fish brackish water and like to flush your motor or just like to run it in the yard from time to time, make the neighbors happy and don't mess with the muffs. For less than $100, you can go to a local feed store and get a galvanized stock tank about four feet long (about 100 gallon) that will slide right under the motor trimed up and then trim it down. Makes a great run tank, very quit and motor can run about 1/2 hour before the water starts getting warm enough that you need to turn it off. In some areas, you will have the cops at your door before you get it cranked up good on the muffs. They also make plastic tanks but they cost more and don't hold up as well as the galvanized for this use.

One thought, if you're in an area that runs alcohol in the gas, might want to try another fuel filter. You will go through bunches of fuel filters with any to the ethanol,/methanol gasolines. They hold water and they desolve the old gasoline residues from the tanks, giving your fuel filter on these motors hell.

Sorry but there is just not a whole lot of checking anything on that motor without the software and a computer. Could easily be a TPS, temp sensor or if the motor sat for a few months, could just be bad gas. If it has sat, change the filter, dump the gas, put about 15 gallons in and a can of seafoam and go cruising until you burn most of that gas out. One thought, check with the dealer on the seafoam, with the piston temps the Etec run, might need to be sure it's safe to run an additive like seafoam. There should be a hose going from the motor to the Ptube, take if off the P tube and clean it out.

Go down a couple of inches and try a three blade stainless. You will probably find you have more top speed and better hole shot. Might need to drop the motor about 3/4" if you have it dialed in right for that oversize four blade. I've not seen anything about what kind of rpm you're turning with the 26" prop and don't know what the gear ratio is on the 125 mercs but that sounds like a whole lot of prop for that little motor.

Plug off you live wells so no water goes in and don't run the pumps and see how much you get. Very common to get leaks around them and to have them loose there seal at the top so water can splash out. Half the boats I've owned got some water in the bilge if I used the live wells. I've had as much as two or three gallons run out when fished all day after loading the boat and pulling the drain plug, and have almost none run out if I didn't use the livewells. For where the fittings, hoses and pumps are on most of them, it ain't worth the trouble to fix them unless you're getting a serious leak.

Depends on the engive. Basically, you identify which of those humps it the resevoir. I will have a plug about half way up it. You take the plug out and add fluid. Now, if you have to raise the engine to gain access to the plug, add a few ounces and trim the enginve all the way down with the plug out. If no fluid comes out, add a little more and trim it all the way down again. Once you get enough that the fluid comes out with it all the way down, let it drain until it quits pouring out. Rasie it back up and put the plug in, you are ready to go. Do Not fill it with it up and put the plug in with it fully raised. Most trim cylinders are push/pull cylinders so they keep the same amount of fluid in them all the time so it doesn't matter if they are in or out. However, many of the tilt cylinders a push only so the fluid has to come back out of them and into the resevoir. Filling the resevoir with it up and putting the plug in will overfill it and may not let the tilt cylinder full retract.

If it's chipping, sounds like it has been recoated somewhere along the way and possibly sprayed with an automotive type clear coat. There is absolutely nothing you can do to stop it. Even if it was recoated with clear gel, once it starts lifting, it will eventually peel off.

The hydraulic system has a pressure relief valve that is designed to open and prevent shock impact damage a whole lot more severe than you had. Not saying it's not possible to have damage, but it's highly unlikely.

You should be able to find a very good, later model used one in any of the top name brands, Mercury, Johnson, Evinrude, Yamaha, etc for a lot less than that. I've got about a 1996/7 short shaft, 4hp Merc that has very few hours on it that someone might could talk me into selling for that kind of money. Just make sure you check on the shaft length, most of those little motor like that are used a kicker motors and have too long of a shaft length to transome mount on a small boat, if that's what you're wanting to do. Might want to check these out.http://www.edsmarinesuperstore.com/mercury.htm

It's all in how the boat responds to trim and like mentioned, you learn buy trying and seat time and is also based on the boat, HP of the motor and how good your setup is. On my current boat, a 20' Javelin with a 225 Evinrude, I almost never trim all the way down. Mine actually comes out of the hole slower with the motor fully tucked than trimmed out some. I also start timming up as soon as I nail the gas to start off. I continue to hold the up trim lever until I reach the point that I know is close to max trim for WOT (again, this is from experience and seat time). Once the boat has fully lifted and getting close to being flat out, I them start bumping the trim up in very small increments until I feel that sweet spot come in. Then we hang on and go. This is when running wide open at about 75 mph. If your boat will run fast enough to get fully on the pad, ALWAYS trim down some before coming off the gas. It's not a big problem with the 225 on my boat but when I put one of my hotrod motors on it, chopping the gas at over 80 mph can make for a real hairy ride, huge increase in the pucker factor. If just getting up to a good cruising speed, I don't trim as far up and wait for the boat to reach the rpm I want to cruise at. I then start bumping the trim up and backing off the gas until I'm giving minimum gas and the boat has max lift at that rpm. Again, this is learning the feel of the boat.

It is possible to install steering on your older 15. If I was going to do it, I would install stick steering at the front seat. Now, with that said, let me throw a couple other things you've got to consider. Steeering is not the only thing you need to get away from using the tiller. You're going to need a control box to add throttle control, shifting capability and a switch to cut the motor off. A control box, cables and hardware to hook everthing up will cost about three times what the steering will cost. If the motor is not electric start, you will have to get up and go to the back everytime you need to start the motor. You can probably sell your motor, buy a good used 25 with remote start, control box and cables cheaper than you could add it to your motor. With all that in mind, that tiller steering might not look so bad after all.

Try to stay away from electric brakes. They are the cheapest way to add brakes to a trailer but a lot of them give problems when backed into the water. If you're going to add brakes, it cost more but the 10" disc brakes are the way to go. I said 10" but that's going to depend on what size wheels you're running, if there's enough room for that much brake and how much weight you're towing. You might need to go down to a 7"

Yes the "Proper Way" to repair his deck is to replace it and eventually, if he keeps the boat, he will probably have to do that but most likely will decide to get rid of it or junk it when he finds out what it cost to fix it properly. Using a sheet of aluminum over it will give several more years of good service, not cost a small fortune and make if feel pretty strong. I had an old center console the whole center of the floor was rotting out. I put aluminum over the whole floor and used it five years until I got rid of it, was still just as strong and riggid as any floor.

They are what's considered a Dual Purpose battery. A portion of the plate area is designed to give the initial high cranking amps for several seconds needed to crank the motor. The rest of the plate area is designed for the gradual slow discharge and the repeated discharge and recharge needed for a deep cycle application. It does not make the best cranking battery, nor does it make it the best deep cycle battery, but it does a pretty good job for both.

To get the glue off, use a floor scraper from home depot that has the replaceable blades, just be carful and don't gouge out the glass. You should be able to get it good enough to apply your new adhesive over the old. If you want it all up, use laquer thinner to wash the rest off. As for a patch over the floor, 1/8" plywood won't do much. I would find the a piece of aluminum about .060" or thicker and put that down. Would be a whole lot stronger and more solid.

First thing I would do is make sure the P tube is not partially clogged. Dirt dobbers love ready made holes to build nest in. The pressure guage is reading the water pressure on the primary side of the cooling system, if you don't have pressure, and have poor water flow out if the P tube, you dang sure don't want to run it until you find the problem. You can always get you a cheap 30 psi guage and connect it back at the motor by taking the hose off that feeds the dash guage and connecting your test guage there. Or, you can take the hose off at the motor feeding the dash guage and apply about 25 psi of air pressure to it and see if it reads the pressure you are applying. If the hole and the hose from the motor to the P tube is clear, and no/low pressure on the test guage, then I would have to wonder about the impeller installation.

Any battery that is at a discharge level that will not let the charger come on, is going to be junk. It will never take a full charge and will give very lilttle run time, If it's a cranking battery, it will only fry the charging system. Those big, yellow group 27's Wally world sells will give you as much run time as any of the cheaper batteries, and even some of the not so cheap batteries.

Most likely you probably just haven't charged the battery enough. Gotta realizie, a 6 amp charger for 3 hours, that's only 18 amps. even if that's only a group 24 and 105 Ah, if the battery was at 75%, that would not have been enough to charge it to 100%. When you buy a battery, no telling how long it has set on the shelf. I've seen a lot of batteries at 50% off the shelf. Actaully, I've seen junk batteries sold because they sat on shelf for almost a year without ever having a sevrice charge put on them. If you want have fun, check out the manufactor date. This is a date code etched into the battery, usually around the side near the top. This is not the same as the delivery date sticker or burned into the battery, that has nothing to do with the date it was made, the could be months and months difference between the two.

When was the water pump impeller replaced? If it's 18 years old, I would stronly recommend you replacing it. I replace mine every three years. If you can turn a wrench, they are not real hard to change. getting the screw that hold the shift rod out is about the hardest part to get to. Then make sure you take the trim tab off, there is a bolt hid under it. I prefer to trim the motor up when I'm ready to take the last bolt out. The LU is pretty heavy and it has to be trimed out some to get enough clearance to get it out.