Way2slow

I hate shooting 100 yards, about the only time I do is just to get a quick idea of how a load is going to work and a sand pit that's only a few miles from my house I can go do quick checks at is only 110 yards max. I have to drive 17 miles to where I can shoot up to 500 yards. Shooting little bitty groups at 100 yards don't show you a whole lot. Put them out there at 400 yards and you get a much more realistic picture of how they perform. To me, 400 yards is just a comfortable, and easy distance to shoot and the loads still hold a good group at that distance. 500 and beyond, the groups don't seem to hold together as consistently as they do at 400. My granddaughter feels the same way. She loves to shoot 400 yards but hates to shoot 500. That extra 100 yards just seems to do strange things to bullets. Now, I do sight in and zero my scopes at 100 yards and set the turrets on the scopes at "0" for 100 yards. I keep a little dope sheet on the scope for the turret settings at 100 increments out to 500 yards. I can dial in the range I want to shoot and go back to zero, and know where it's at. Although, most of my scopes are FFP and have MOA or MRAD reticles so I can just do a quick range calculation and hold over if I need to make a quick shot.

Did it melt it back to the key switch and on back into the motor. What I'm seeing there means there had to be a problem under the dash or in the boat wiring. Maybe where someone was using that ground for something they wired. One of those wires on the tach should go to the key switch, the other would go to one of the other gauges, maybe the battery voltage or trim gauge. There are only a couple OMC provided for. It's going to start at the source of the short and go back to the battery or engine block, where ever they pull their ground from. So, if you keep following those wires on the tach, one should go to the switch, that one is not the problem, the other one will lead you to where the short started if you just keep on following it. When you quit finding melted insulation and it turns to good black insulation, that's the source of the short.

The ground/battery negative is the black wire going to the switch. The kill wire going back to the ignition should be black/yellow. Other than a couple of gauges, the ground wire should not be connected to very much. It's main purpose going up to the switch is just to provide a ground at the switch for the kill circuit. Yes, there had to be short to smoke that ground wire. In a short, the smaller wire is going to be the one fry, so look for a larger red/battery positive wire that has gotten into it. Now you just have to hope it only took out the wire. To trouble shoot, start by connecting you volt meter to battery negative and the positive meter lead to the bare ground wire a make sure there is not voltage on it. It could still be shorted and just burned itself into where it connects to the engine/battery negative. If you are having major problems trying to follow the wires, they make I circuit tracer that will tell you if a wire is open or shorted and place a signal on the wire that you can use a toner to follow it. The one I have and bought many years ago was about $300 then, but it was a new gadget to the trouble shooting world back then. I would think by now they would be a lot cheaper. Don't know what you might be getting for your money but here's something similar at Harbor Freight, the good one I saw are still a little pricey. https://www.harborfreight.com/cable-tracker-94181.html?cid=paid_google|||94181&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_content=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6arW0eq67QIVCkqGCh07yAVAEAQYAyABEgKZ2PD_BwE

It's definitely starting to look more promising. Went early this morning before the winds started to start on load development with new bolt in the rifle. Started off at 38 grains of H4350 and went up 1/2 grain increments to 43 grains pushing some 140ELD-M bullets, shooting at 400 yards. I was getting a little disappointed at first, but when I shot the 41 grain, I thought what the heck, where did they go. I drove down to the target (I can normally see them with the scope) to see what happened to them. All five were there, in a tight little 1/2" group. Went back and shot the 41.5 grain loads, this time they were in just a touch over 1/2" where one bullet went out slightly. Shot the 42 grain loads and they were just under 1" and it opened up a little more after that. Tried some IMR 4350 with some 143 ELD-x loads and some Reloader 17 but most of those were on the ugly side of 2 - 2 1/4". Also tried the Muzzle brake, total waste, they were about three inches low and all over the place. So, it's looks like I have a pretty good starting point to start tweeking from between40.5 and 41.5 grains. I went in my 2500HD and left my tripod for Chrony in my Toyota that I normally go in, so I couldn't get any load data. Also took my 260, but should have had my glasses on, I got there and had the bullets for the 270.

Back when my dad was still living, I went every other weekend just so I could take him, he loved to fish. As for numbers of fish caught and the biggest fish caught, it was usually pretty equal because I always considered him being able to fish. I was a better angler but I also tried the keep the boat positioned so he could have first shot a plenty of good spots. Now, with a front seat guy operating the boat and not giving a hoot about what the back seat guy can do, then by far, the front seat is best because the front seat guy can keep the back seat guy in dead water most of the time.

Redneck weight is usually about 20% more than claimed, because he's probably lying about it. OH! wait a minute, I am a redneck and I know rednecks don't lie, that 15" bass held out at full arms length toward the camera weighed at least 10 pounds..

Used to be a lot of club tourneys had the share a boat deal were a non boat owner could fish with a boat owner. Been many, many moons since I've fished any kind of tournament so don't know about now. One thing for sure, if they do and you are ever invited to pair up with one, make dang sure you know those unwritten rules. You never cast to the front of the boat or any obstacle beyond half way toward the front unless the front seat guy has fished it first and given up on it. You start trying to beat him to a spot or cutting him off, you might end up swimming back. Also it cost big bucks to put that boat in the water for a day, so be sure to offer fair compensation for your being able to go with him. Get the right front seat guy and I've seen some back seat guys place pretty high on the score board.

It's not about the top speed, there will probably be minimal difference there, it's about the difference hole shot and general performance of the boat when gas, gear and two people are in the boat. That's where you should see a big difference between those two motors. Everyone seems to associate a bigger motor with more speed, what extra speed you get is not the main issue with going with the biggest possible motor you can get, it's everything else the bigger motor brings to the table that makes them so much more enjoyable to operate. Some think the bigger motor will burn more gas, that's true only if you are running WOT. It takes a given amount of HP to push a boat a given speed. At the same hp for that given speed, both motors should burn about the same with the new computer controlled systems. The bigger motor may actually give better mileage because it's not having to work as hard to hold an average cruising speed.

If the 75 is a larger displacement motor, don't even think about getting the 60. All the reasons given are very true. A 60 will only make you regret not getting the 75, no matter what you do with it, even when you decide to get rid of it.

I thought this thread had died. But for trying different ammo's in a 22, the last time I counted, I had 17 different boxes of 22LR's in my sample box that I use for testing what load a 22 shoots best. My dad found a Western Auto Glenfield 60 in a dumpster several years ago and handed it to me to fix. The rifle was in pretty nice condition and still had the labels on it, but would not eject a shell. I fixed the ejection problem and cleaned it up good. It would shoot rings around the 60SS I have the way it was when I first got it. After a ton of work and a lot of extra money, my 60ss shoots OK now, about as good as could be expected for a bottom of the barrel grade rifle. My 10/22 Take Down with the heavy match grade barrel on it will put it to shame but that barrel cost almost what the 60SS cost. However, even with the factory barrel on the 10/22, it will still out shoot the 60SS, but the 10/22 does not have the feel I was wanting for instinct shooting the 60SS has, which was the reason for buying the 60SS in the first place, and it now shoots good enough for that purpose.

On the transom. It looks like that was their way of trying to extend it for a long shaft motor (20"). The boat most likely came with a 15" transom height for a short shaft motor. So, when you start working on it, you might want to decide if you want a 15" or 20" transom. If a small gas motor might be in the picture down the road, the 15" short shaft motors are far more common than the 20" long shaft in used motors. Might want to do a little research up front and see what the more common are in your area. Around my parts, 9.9's and 15's would be hard to find in a 20" long shaft. 25's are about evenly mixed, but a 25 is a lot of motor for a 1436. I have a 25 Merc I put on my 1436 and if will scoot. My wife prefers me using the 9.9 when she's in it, which it's actually a 9.9 modified to a 15.

Sounds more like a stuck or dirty brush.

I'm not too fond of the way they have done the transom. Kind of a hap hazard way to extending it, and not too sure they were also trying to reinforce it where the wood on the inside might be rotten. Might want to check that. It's usually not a major deal in replacing the wood inside most jons but some can be a real pain. If you are not handy with tools a doing something like that, might want to check it close. Bad transom can be the death of a boat, if it has to be repaired/replaced by a professional. On the other hand also, if you never plan to add an outboard, just running a TM it would be ok like it is. Usually ends up though, being your first, it won't be long before you get tired of the limitations of at small TM and start looking for a small outboard. 9.9 would make a world of difference in enjoyment.

Yes, it's still a good deal with a trailer, provided its not a junky homemade trailer.. The main thing is, being new to boats is the width. Get one of the narrower ones and it won't be very stable and can very easily dump you over the side the first time you try to reach out to get to get a lure or something. 1432 is about as narrow as I would recommend to a newbee and would be better if it was 1436.

I was just looking around me, and think I'm in overkill. Sitting at my computer and looking at the loaded weapons around me, there's a 38 revolver sitting under the monitor, there's another 38 revolver in a drawer right behind me, there's an AR-15 hanging over the door, a Glock 27 on the work bench behind me and a 22 rifle on the wall behind me, and eight more rifle in a rack on the wall that could be loaded very quickly, and that's just this one room. My wife keeps saying I need to get rid of some, and the way things seem to be heading, I'm beginning to agree with her. There will probably be a large reduction in my inventory. My son wants a couple of them, but he's 50 years old and has no kids of his own to pass them on to. So, other than a couple of my favorites, most will probably be history within a few months. Wow, gonna sell my bass boat and most of my motors, getting rid of most of my guns, just gave a friend my go fast outboard motor, haven't used it in a while. I'm guess that's a pretty good sign I'm GETTING OLD. Actually done got old.

An 870 riot gun makes a great weapon. 8 rounds of #4's and I don't think anyone would walk away from it. My neighbor was showing me one he bought to only had about a 14" barrel and pistol grips. Said it was legal because it was just considered a gun. I haven't checked into it because I already have a couple 870's set up.

Shoot, I keep guns tucked away in all parts of the house so no matter where I'm at in the house, a weapon is only a few steps. I also actually have ear muffs with them, but come right down to it, if needing one in a hurry, the ear muffs will most likely be left laying there. I'm hoping it never comes to having to fire a shotgun or pistol inside, it would probably take out an eardrum or two. I've shot next to a building without hearing protection, and it hurts. My biggest concern it great grand kids. Lock boxes or trigger locks would be too slow if you needed one quick so I have to make the access to them difficult and concealed so nosy kids don't find them and never keep a round in the chamber, making most hard for a kid to manipulate.

My sister in-law offered to give me a Judge her husband had, he died last year and she had a number of pistols she wanted out of the house. Her kids took most but there were still a few, I told her thanks but no thanks, I had no need for it. Apparently none of her kids did either.

Finished the checkering, kept it fairly plain with my skill level, and still have a few Oh S***!, but as long as you don't get up close and start picking the details apart, it looks pretty good. I basically use the pattern in the pic, but without the diamond in it. While I was waiting on tools, I took the "Bubba" out of my model 7, 260 where it had been hydro dipped in camouflage and a lot of it had worn off, making the rifle look like a total piece of ****. Getting that stuff off was a pain, had to redo the checkering on it, redo the blueing (I do my own hot blueing with a lye and ammonium nitrate solution I mix up) on all the metal where they had to sand and scuff everything to dip it, stripped and refinished the stock, really looks nice now. I put some of that walnut dye on it I order for the stock, sure was glad I didn't use it on it. Even on the light colored stock, it was dark, and I mixed it weak and wet the wood to prevent a lot of penetration. By the time I got a dozen coats of BLO on it, it's pretty dark.

What little I keep loaded, I store in mil surplus 50 cal ammo cans with desiccant bags. Since I reload, I don't need to store a lot of loaded ammo. Powder stores nicely in the containers it comes in, I just shot some Dupont 4895 I bought over 50 years ago. Primers, I store in the ammo cans also with some desiccant bags in with them. I've never heard of the kitty litter stuff, but if it works, use it. You definitely want something in there with them. Granted, paper/cardboard boxes adsorb moisture but with a good absorbent in there with them I would think they would be ok. The biggest thing is to try and keep them in a controlled temp where there is not a lot of fluctuation, that's what causes the container to breath in and out, pulling moisture in when it cools.

Cut me a piece of wood about the shape of the forearm and practiced some 20LPI checkering. I'm ok with 16LPI but 20 is a little harder. Plus I don't have all the tools I need for 20 so had to make do for now. Definitely not ready to try it on the stock yet. m

When the boat is just big enough for the gear and all the junk, there's no room inside the boat for a second person, so they ride the suicide seat.

Have I ever owned a cheaper boat? Every boat I've ever own has always been a compromise to the boat I would really like to have. First, I've never owned but two new boats, and they were both back when I was still in school. My last new boat or new motor was in 1969, the year I got married. Since then, it's been having to buy someone else broken junk and fix it. Then it was based on the price, not whether or not it was the boat I really wanted. It floated, ran and somewhat served the purpose for what I wanted to do. 60 years later, that's still the way.

Done but not with checkering. Still got to practice some on that and need to order a couple more tools. Not too bad for a first time and a piece of wood my brother was going to trash because he had ruined it. I wanted to add a check piece but after getting the wood blank straight, there was not enough wood in the thickness, and I couldn't offset it because he had already hogged out the middle trying to inlet it. I guess I should also mention, the dye I waited a week on, I didn't use, it made it too dark with the wood already being naturally dark, so nothing on it but the clear finish over the natural wood.

Check and see it the steel bar like they use on manually tilted motors is in and it's in the very bottom holes. If you know anyone with prop that will work on your motor, see if you can borrow it and try it, even if it a pitch or two off, all your wanting to do is test the hole shot.