Way2slow

Nothing says you have to get out of sight of the ramp until you feel comfortable with the way it's performing. Play like a NASCAR drive at Bristol, keep turning left and hang on. Now, these is another thing you can do if you have the ramp to yourself. Leave it on the trailer, strapped down good. Back it in so the motor is at the same water line it would be if it was sitting in the water, and trim it so the anticav plate is level the surface of the water. That gives you the proper back pressure to do all you checks and adjustments. Now, I would think twice about standing in the water doing any of this when it's in gear, that prop could make you a few inches shorter. Now the fun part, once you are done with all your checking and adjusting, pull the boat back out until the anticav plate is about an inch above the water. Rev it up to about half throttle in gear, and let it run for a couple of minutes. If you had a tach, you could go full throttle and watch the RPM and by moving the boat forward or backwards get it so it revs to but not over max rpm. Just don't hold it at full throttle very long. Basically, you are using the lake as your dyno. I do this to set the timing on an engine. Motors has to be turning over 5,000 rpm to set max advanced timing so I just hook my light up, get everything ready, have someone go WOT for a few seconds while I check it with the light. Make any adjustments if needed and try it again. A few seconds is about all you want to hold it like this, so take your reading and back off, adjust if needed, and do it again. You can run it at partial throttle for several minutes, just watch your pee tube and make sure water is coming out, You are running at a controlled cavitation so it may try to suck air in the pickup so you want to make sure it's pumping enough water. One thing, if this is mud/dirt ramp, or if its a short concrete ramp, I wouldn't do this, you will probably make one huge crater for the next guy that backs down, and it can suck crap through the motor. This thing is moving a hellavalot of water. If you really wanted to do it the RIGHT way, but that's no fun, get you a test prop in the pitch you need and use it. You can run WOT for several minutes with one.

Most auto parts chain stores sell them. They are normally called gas springs. They should have a display rack in one of the isles, If they don't have the exact one you need, they can probably order it. Now, if you are wanting to install one where there never was one, then you will need to figure out the length and load/pressure for the one you need and which ball end connectors.

Something like this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wire-Inductive-Tachometer-Tach-Hour-Meter-RPM-Digital-For-2-4-Stroke-Engine-New/193141661172?hash=item2cf823ddf4:g:ztoAAOSwpr9eFXnG

Are you doing this in the driveway on a hose or in the water at the lake? Reason I ask, I think I've mentioned, you can't adjust or do anything with the idle with the motor on a hose. It has to be in the water at it's normal depth. If your boat does not have a tach, there used to be some on ebay that just wrapped a wire around a sparkplug wire for a pickup, they were less than $10. Problem with those, you had to be at the motor to read it.

It can be done, if you have much in the way of electrical smarts. With a minimum 20-30 amp (ON)(OFF), double pole, double throw toggle switch (not an ON, OFF, ON), 12V will be connected to the center (common) terminal and all the 12V wires the switch turns on will be connect to the normally open side the 12V is connected. If the motor requires a kill wire, the kill wire will be connected to the other center (common) terminal on the toggle switch, and a ground wire will be connected to the normally closed terminal on the same side as the kill wire. That way, when the switch is flipped to the on position, it turns on all the stuff the key switch did, and removes the ground from the kill wire. When the key is switched to the off position, it disconnects all the 12V stuff and places a ground on the kill wire to shut the engine down. You will probably have to make a 12ga jumper wire with eyelets on both ends (assuming you key switch has eyelets) and use a small screw and nut to connect all those wires (probably too much to fit on toggle switch) with the other end connection to toggle switch. You will need to move the switched and the accessory wires and put them together, you just won't be able to use the accessories, if you have any connected without everything being on, unless you want to add another or different type toggle switch. DO NOT cut terminals off and try splicing wires, you will create one major headache down the road. When all done, make sure you didn't do something to bypass the neutral safety. If you just remove the wires from the switch and jumper them to the toggle switch, you shouldn't have a problem

The next time it won't start, Have a squirt bottle of premixed gas handy and the air silence off or where you can easily pop it off. Before touching anything, give each carb a shot of gas and see if it start right up. Just trying to make sure it's a fuel problem, because just moving the fuel filter should have had an effect on it, and he may have moved a wire making a bad connection when he moved the fuel filter. You might want to put a piece of tubing or coupling in the place of the fuel filter temporarily just to make sure it's not being too restrictive. Need to make 100% sure it's a fuel problem and not an electrical/ignition problem.

About the only thing you can trouble shoot on the hose is a dead cylinder. About 2,000 rpm is the max you should rev one without a load on it and at that, you are usually not even opening the carbs, that's nothing but timing advance. After it died, did you pump the primer bulb, if so, did it get firm within a couple of squeezes? The next time, have someone with you and try squeezing the primer bulb as you start getting up on plane and keep squeezing it for a little after you are up on plane. You should be able to feel some pressure as you are doing this, if not and it feels like you are just pumping an empty bulb and the motor dies, you have a pickup problem between it and in the tank. If it runs good while you are squeezing it and then dies shortly after you quit, try squeezing it again and see if it feels like it's moving gas and it should get firm again after several pumps. If so, you have a fuel pickup or delivery problem with the fuel pump. While in the driveway, take the cover off, and pump the primer bulb until firm and hold that while you look for leaks. If there are any air leaks that's letting the fuel pump suck air between the primer bulb and pump, they will leak gas when you are holding pressure on the primer bulb. You did get the hose back on the pulse valve good, if you took it off. If not, the fuel pump may not have been pumping enough. As the piston on the cylinder the pulse valve is connected is coming down, it's pressurizing the crankcase, and that valve is sending that pressure to the fuel pump diaphragm, once it clears the intake ports, that pressure is released and the spring on the diaphragm pushes it back the other way. That's how the pump pumps fuel.

No problem there. Go to the link you posted and go to the carburetor, item #6. These can not be adjusted sitting in your drive way, other than maybe turning that bottom one out a turn or so to see if it quits spitting fuel. The "proper" way to adjust these is to take it to the lake, run around a few minutes to get the engine warm, then you can get some place to park it or you can safely get on the back without a wake knocking you off and let it idle in gear. Idle speed should be around 700 rpm in gear. It can be a little higher if it doesn't bang going in gear, or a little lower if it will maintain a steady idle. Turn the mixture screw in until it starts running rougher, then back out to it's smoothest point, do all three, then go back a double check each one. A couple of things, the link and sinc should be done, and take the time to get the carbs sync'ed perfect. All three butterflies closed at idle and all three start to open at the same time, precisely the same time, not almost. After the link and sinc is done, and everything is exactly where it's supposed to be, DO NOT use the stop screws to adjust the idle. Use the timing advance rod between the linkage cam and the timer base. You only want to change the idle timing, not open the butterflies in the carbs. Now, after adjusting the mixture and getting them where it idles great, and the first cool morning you go out and it wants to lean spit (that's the cough they give and act like they want to shut off) even after a couple minutes high idle warm up, open each of the mixture screws about an 1/8 of a turn each. If it still wants to spit, try another 1/8 turn each. When you get it where it idles good on cold mornings, it may be a little rich next summer, but usually not enough to need to lean them back down again.

Not a smart thing to do because you could end up bypassing the neutral safety switch, and that could prove to be dumb move the first time you start it in gear. So, if you do go forward with this plan, be sure you have to neutral safety switch connected so there is no chance of starting in gear. Also, you do realize along with the push button, you will have to install a toggle switch, and probably a double pole double throw. A lot of engines are shut down by the key placing a ground on the ignition wire when you switch to the off position. Just turning the 12V off won't do it. So, you will need to some way to apply that ground the key switch applies if your motor requires that.

Are you saying you done put carbs back on without the base gasket. I was going to suggest if you check the reeds for blow-by and they are good, you might try opening the low speed mixture about a turn, if it's adjustable, because a lean spit will make it do that. However, if there is no base gasket and the carb is sucking air between it and the intake, that could account for the lean spit.

My old single axle Stratos trailer had tires identical to those when I first got it. I put a new set on it, packed and did a proper tightening on the wheel bearings and had it aligned and never had a problem with tire ware on it.

It's easy enough to check the bearings. Jack the wheel up, grab the tire at points 180 degrees apart and see if/how much you can move the tire back and forth. Anything more than a very slight movement is too much. There are all kinds of ways you hear about to tighten the castle nut. The way I have found works for me, I torque it down until it won't spin without considerable force, this is to squeeze the grease out, then I back if off until loose and then turn it back in until I feel it just start to make contact and starts feeling tension on it. Run one too loose and that help contribute to uneven tire were, run one too tight and it does not get a grease film and burns out. Regardless of who says what, I always balance my tires and I set my tow height so it has a slight drop toward the ball. I think most recommend a hitch height of 12-13 inches. I also have my axles aligned but that's something that's getting very difficult to do because modern shops don't have either the equipment or the know how to do that...You have to find a shop that has to ability to align straight axles (this has to be done by bending the axle) and the smarts to be able to do it without having to look up the year and make of the vehicle in the computer to know how to set it. Also be ware, this has to be done at the tow high of you hitch, so it has to be measured and then set at that height on the alignment rack.

usually when I run into this, it's the recoil starter. If you have the know how, I would pull it off, take it apart, clean and lube it.

The pointed things are for ring alignment when you are using rings like the Leupold Dove Tail rings. If using a rail, not much can be done for alignment. Lapping gives better contact for the holding of the scope to keep it from moving but more importantly it's to keep the rings from actually damaging the scope. Several years ago, a friend ask me to check his rifle when he was trying to zero it. it was acting erratic and he could not get it to zero. This was a brand new, $700 scope. I used a pencil and marked the tube at the front and back of the rings and shot it a couple of times to see if it was moving, it wasn't. I had to take the scope out of the rings to check the base and see if it was tight. He had it pulled back to where the back ring was almost to the center section with the Turrets. The base was tight so he decided to leave it off and take it back. The place he bought it told him he would have to send it back to the manufacture for warranty repair. His "Warranty" repair cost him almost $300. They said the scope tube was damaged where the rear ring was next to the adjustment system and damaged the insides of the scope, and they would not warranty it, the damage was too extensive. They sent him a replacement at what they called, their cost. He brought the rifle and rings to me and we checked alignment, that was good. I lapped them a little to see if they were any pressure points and where the pressure points were. The back ring was only touching the tube at very front, right next to the Turrets the way he had it mounted. After almost thirty minutes of lapping, we finally had it where both rings made full, even contact. His $700 scope ended up costing over $1,000 You can bet you won't never see him put another scope on without lapping the rings first.

If there is any question about the pressure, error toward the low end, 10-15 psi is fine if you have good volume.

Understand, absolutely no more than 20 psi in the crankcase so make sure you have a good regulator on it. The crankcase will not handle a lot of pressure.

Sounds like your planets must be aligned nicely. Do you have an air compressor or a source for compressed air? The reason for all this is, if you can get to the pulse valve, you can take it out, put the bottom piston on top dead center and apply about 20psi of air into the crankcase where you took out the pulse valve. If everything was perfect it would hold that air, but never seen a perfect motor so you will get a little blow by in places. What you are listing for is air coming out of the carburetor with the throttle butterfly open. A very slight amount, that could just be old reeds ab, what you don't want to hear is a lot of air coming out. Lots of air means the intake will most likely have to come off to check reeds, gasket or recirculation valve. You need to fix any leaks you get when pumping the primer bulb. The solenoid you a see is most likely the fuel enrichment. You can by the gasket/parts to fix that.

If that's the way it came out of the pump, sounds like it's a small, low volume station and the tank has a lot of rust in it. This can be especially bad if they had a recent fuel delivery. When the tanker dumps the new gas in, it stirs up all that crud they haven't pump out. It can take a couple of days for the rust and crud to settle back to the bottom. That's why I try to only buy gas at high volume stations, they have larger tanks and a fairly high turn-over so you are not as likely to get that crappy gas. Also, do a little research on Top Tier Gas and then only buy that. However, you were good on that part, I'm pretty sure Shell is rated as Top Tier. Most of the major brands like Shell, Amoco, BP, Texaco, Exxon, etc are Top tier, but think the brands like Marathon, Walmart, Raceway etc are, The bulk of discount gases are not even good to run in a lawn mower. If people could see what that discount gas does to the inside of and engine, they probably wouldn't go near the stuff.

One thing about that gas, that stuff is junk. The problem is the station own/attendant is not doing their job. Gas tanks in the ground collect condensation, and it settles to the bottom of the tank. At least once a week they are supposed to put a paste on the bottom of their measuring stick that changes color when it comes in contact with water. When the water gets to a certain level in the tank, they are supposed to have it pump out. That's where you are iin a catch 22, ethanol free gas doesn't hold the water so it accumulates much faster in the tank and is pumped out as water to the customer when the level gets to the fuel pickup. Ethanol gas will absorb the water and passes on to the customer where, when left sitting can separate out and settle into the customers tank.

One thought, look for the pulse valve for the fuel pump and see which cylinder it's coming off of. If you are lucky it might be coming off the bottom cylinder. To find it, look at the fuel pump, if your motor is not extremely old, there should be a hose going from the fuel pump to a fitting in the block, that fitting is the pulse valve. The crankcase is divided into three sections, if that valve is in the lower section you are home free. Let me know and I can tell you what to do from there. If it's an older motor, the fuel pump will be sitting on the hole for the pulse. Then it's a matter off where the pump is located.

This is a case where you probably need to do a crankcase leakdown test, but that's probably beyond your capacities. I haven't worked on one of those three cylinder motors in ages, even though I have one under my shed. I'm trying to think of some way you can pressurize the crankcase for that cylinders crankcase to see if it blows back excessively through that carb. Something short of just pulling the intake to check it. Do your homework on recirculation valves, where they are located and how to test them. As fuel passes through the motor, there are areas that it tends to separate from the air and puddles. the recirc valves let the engine siphon that fuel and feed it back through the intake. If one is bad, it can cause similar problems or make an engine run rough. Reeds and reed block gasket is a prime candidate for your problem. Understand, crankcase leakdown is not the same as a cylinder leakdown. Cylinder leakdown won't work because you have to get the piston down below the intake ports for the air to get into the crankcase. The problem there is the exhaust port opens first so all the air you try putting in, is going straight out the exhaust.

What I saw, if what you are talking about is not a leak. It looks like it's spitting fuel out the pull over orifice, the hole in the center at the top of the carb. Two strokes always have small blow back through the carbs, that's just part of the way it works. However, that's excessive. That looks more like a possible bad reed or reed plate gasket, or bad recirculation valve. If you hold a piece of paper close to the carb venture while it's running you will see gas collecting on it, or hold a flash light at an angle in very low light you will see a mist, that's normal. However, that bottom carb is not normal, but that's not a carb problem or fuel input problem. That's behind the carb.

If the motor is sitting where the anticav plate is level with the ground and it's leaking gas out of the carb, unless there is a defective fuel bowl or the main jet access plug is leaking, it's leaking by the needle and seat. There is a vent hole that's it's probably coming out of, but it can only do that if the bowl is over filled. It won't even leak around the bowl gasket if the float level is right and the needle is closing off in the seat. The short version of what I just said, sounds like it's leaking by the needle and set. Make sure the float is not bad and filled with gas and check the manual on setting the float level. You said you checked it but did you check the height. It can be level but sitting too far down, when held upside down. That raised the fuel level in the bowl enough it could be over filling. Could just be a bad needle/seat. Just remember, if the bowl doesn't have a crack or flaw in it, and the plug in the front is not leaking, it can't leak gas if the float/needle/seat is doing what it's supposed to do.

Not sure I fully understand you problem. When you say leaking out of the bottom, are you talking about inside the throat/venture or are you talking about off the bottom and dripping down. On those carbs, do they have the plastic bodies and bowls or are they aluminum. The plastic ones are really bad about warping and distorting to the point they don't seal around the bowl gasket.

That why I said I haven't seen them all. That is the bypass valve and I've messed with a bunch of them, and that's the first for plastic Crap like that I guess is why they finally quit making them. Could have just been a bad connection and moving things around cleaned it up. It could be bad brushes in the motor and intermittently making contact. Since you have swapped relays, if/when it does it again, if's its still the down, you have a control wiring problem or a bad motor. Next time, before doing anything else, try running the motor directly and see if it runs both ways.