Way2slow

I haven't seen them all, but so far I've never seen on made of plastic. Are you sure you are looking at the right thing. It's usually on the right side, looking at the motor mount near the bottom, there is a large hole. Get down eye level and look in the holes and you should see a very large, flat screw with a large flat common screw slot in it. Use at least a 1/2" wide screwdriver and turn that screw several turns counter clockwise. Some models do use a hex head socket wrench, Allen wrench and some on the left side. but so far, I've never run into one that's plastic. Also some you will see a smaller stem sticking out from a recess with a lock ring around it (this is the more common on most Johnson Evinrude's, but they are all on the side looking through the mount. Just look through the holes on the side of the mount until you see one it. I would also strongly suggest you be careful about listening to buddies ansdsticking a hot wire in connectors. Volt/ohm meters are made to trouble shoot electrical problems. Doing what you are doing can get very expensive if you are not totally familiar with the electrical system on that motor. If it's a relay problem or switch problem, what you are doing is not going to make it work. If you look and find the two large wires going to the trim motor unplug it. There should be a green and blue wire, Green for the grass, meaning down, blue for sky, meaning up. Use at least a #14 wire from the battery positive and touch the blue wire going to the motor. If it does not go up, touch the green wire, if it tries to go down, but the blue will not make it go up, you probably have a bad trim motor. Ain't that something, tell you not to stick hot wire in connectors and then tell you to do it. What we are doing here is not messing with the control wiring like you were doing. If it goes up and down from those two wires, you have a bad relay, switch of some sore of a wiring problem If it is a bad relay, just switch the two relays and that will let you get it up.

There is a manual bypass valve on the power trim so if something like that happens, you open the bypass and raise or lower the motor by hand. Raising it takes a little physical effort but that's better than trying to haul it with it down. Open the bypass, grab down around the trim tab and start pulling outward and up, then you can put it on the trailering rest to keep it up or use something like of the those transom savers.

What you are wanting to do is why I have several boats. For fishing ponds and small waters I have a 1436 Jon that I can put a 12V TM for ponds, a 4hp Mercury for some of the rivers that a just barely larger than some creeks, a 9.9 Johnson for some lakes that have hp limits and a 25hp Mercury for larger rivers and the backwaters when I don't feel like messing with a 20' Javelin. For the big waters, I have a 20' with a big gitty up go motor on it. Now, as for what size or type bass boat, that's where a whole lot of time in different boats is valuable. How much storage it has, and what type is critical for me. Then how it rides and how it fishes. Some boats just make a lousy fishing platform after you have used them a while. Performance is next, I personally don't care for a bass boat that won't run at least 45-50 mph and has a good hole shot. Can't stand a boat that has to struggle to get on plane. I also have a 17' Grumman canoe, and a 1232 Jon I use to haul in the bed of my truck for areas that don't have very good access and have to drag a boat to get to them. So, to answer your question from my experience, you can't get one boat that will reasonably do everything you want.

My very first car was a ragged old 1948 Ford I bought for $10 in 1962 when I was 15, and had to spend $3 for a drive shaft and put it in to get it going. My first good car was 1953 Ford for $40 in 1963. A very clean low mileage car a guy had inherited from his grandmother and lost it in a poker game at our house. The guy that won it waited a week for the guy to pay him and then sold it to me for what the bet was. When I turned 16, I bought the makings of my first hot rod, a 1955 six cylinder Ford $300 that I put three bigger motors in the first year, the third being a 427 from and 63 Ford. From there the list is extensive and full of very nice, very fast cars.

I realize a huge number of people have no mechanical smarts or common since. A lot of that comes from life experiences and when you were raised and went through life doing nothing, like so many today, they have nothing to build that knowledge on. I have an older brother that can't put a nut on a screw without the directions, but at least he knows when it changes in sound or how it operates, to have it checked out, usually that means a call or trip to me. A couple of months ago he was complaining because a body shop was going to charge him $2,200 to fix his right front fender where he rubbed a yellow painted barrier. Since most cars are ABS plastic in the front and rear, I asked him if it crushed it, but he said it only left yellow scratches in a large area. I told him to get some denatured alcohol and try cleaning it first. He called me back the next day and thanked me for saving him $2,200. After the alcohol, it only had a couple minor scratches, which I told him a little rubbing compound and polish would take those out or make then unnoticeable. You learn by going through the building blocks of things. Hand someone a ratchet that has never used on and they scratch there head. Have them use it and the next time they know how and what it's used for.

Also, just a little gee wiz info. This is Teleflex's cable radius recommendation just in case someone runs into this again. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/Teleflex/TMTechCat-ControlCables(v4_0)Universal_Cables.pdf You will see it's one heck of a lot less than what he got handed by his repair shop.

I've seen them go both ways. If it has cable steering, it pretty much has to through a cable port on the side, but with hydraulic steering, it can come through the splash well. I've seen throttle and shift cables in either position.

Maybe I'm missing something but I see a cable port in the splash well, why wasn't the cable fed through it. The way they ran that one makes me question the intelligence of whomever did the work. Nobody would want a cable sticking out over a compartment cover and as you said, have a trip hazard on the deck.

If it was making an obvious noise of the bearing going bad, yep, I would shut if off and fix it. A $10 fan is a hellavalot cheaper than a CPU that fried from lack of cooling air. It's not I don't have sympathy for someone that is having hard times, but when they come out of the grocery store with their $20 worth of cigarettes, and drive off in a vehicle that's lucky to make it to the stop sign. I don't have sympathy for those. Sympathy for someone have a hard time is why I was working one this boat in the first place. I probably have over 40 hours and a bunch of my money in this "favor". It started off I was going to take that motor off and put an Mercury I6, 115 on it that had not been run in 10 years. After getting it running, doing a compression test and a number of other things, I put it on the pontoon. Tilted it up and it would not clear the seat across the back. Took the seat off and it hit the batteries in the back. Took it back off, tore the 90 down and drove the block 140 miles round trip to get checked and bored, just to find out it was junk. Drove that 140 miles again to go get it. Reassembled the motor so it would be all in one piece and hung it back on the pontoon and took the pontoon to a place she could leave it until she gets some income. All of this has not cost her one dime, it's been all on me, so before judging me, learn a little about me. I think you will find I am not the person you seem to have pictured in your pea brain.

I don't care who or what, when you keep operating something that has an obvious problem, it will in all probably break completely, and when it does, it usually destroys a lot more parts than the original part and cost a whole lot more to repair. If it's not right and short on cash, just park the dang thing until it can be repaired. It's rarely ever going to quit completely in a convenient location, so then they are stuck with no way to get it and themselves back to where they need to be. It's not just boats, it's everything. I hear cars running making ungodly noises from the engine or driveline. Later you see them sitting on the side of the road or interstate with a tow sticker on them from a state trooper. They get towed at some outrages charge and then sit in the tow lot at a ridiculous daily storage fee, plus the cost to repair probably shot through the roof. Of course the tow companies are smart also, they see some old junker sitting there and it may sit for a week because they know they may not get their money. A nice vehicle that looks like somebody would want back quickly gets towed within a few hours of the sticker time. It's very rare for a anything to breakdown without giving warning signs first, but people chose to ignore them and then ***** because they got inconvenienced or stranded. I'm sorry, but your argument of not having the money to fix it don't fly with me. If it's making noises that's not supposed to, it requires repair. As for me, there have been many time through my years I had not do something, or do without something to have the money to repair something, before it failed completely and cost me a heck of a lot more to repair. It I could not scrape up the money to fix it then, it sat, unused until I could get the funds.

If a motor is not running right, why keep running it, there is not motor god that's going to wave his hands over it and make it prefect again. Let one sit, it's going to have bad fuel, dirty carbs and all kinds of running problems. Running one like this is just inviting it to melt a piston. Running a weak/bad battery, big no no. People brag about running cranking batteries for years. Well, that $100 battery can cost you hundreds in repairs to the charging system and using jumper cables can create an arc that can destroy the ECM. Also letting the charging system charge a battery that had to be boosted off in not good. If you're lucky, it only takes out the rectifier and your tach stops working and quits charging the battery. What brings this up is a 2006, Mercury 90hp I was rebuilding for the neighbors daughter. I say was, because it's junk now. Back in the spring it was not running right and it locked up on her. She took it to a marina on the lake and they told held one cylinder had lost compression and was bad. I told her then if she would bring it to me, I would check and fix it if needed. Well, I guess after it cooled it had freed up since they did a compression test. Friends told her it was fine and just keep running it. Finally it' totally destroyed the piston, bent the rod and beat the crap out of the dome. This motor does not have a removable head, it's part of the block. Initial inspection after tear down, it looked like it might be salvageable so I sent it to have that cylinder bored. After boring it and doing final cleanup, the shop discovered the dome was cracked about 2/3 the around it. Soooo! the block is nothing but junk scrap metal. A new block is $1,500 and no used one to be found yet. By the time shipping and taxes is added, it's over $2,000. A rebuild power head it $2,600 plus core charge. Cores have to be rebuildable or they don't give you back the core charge. Needless to say, this one is not rebuildable. This was on a 24' pontoon and she has commented she wish it had a bigger motor. Looks like she gets to make he wish come true, when she finds another motor, she can get one bigger. The sad part is, if she had brought if to me in the spring when I first told her to, the parts it needed would have been less than $400, now she's probably looking at $4,000 and up, depending on how much bigger motor she wants and what year and quality.

I did realize one thing that helps a little. I have a 20 round plastic ammo case for every center fire rifle I have with the main loads I used in them. Each of these cases have a label on them with all the load data and scope settings for that load on them. So, at least that much of the data is recoverable just by getting it off those so the only thing lost is the odd ball loads I shot in them. The ones I shoot regularly are memorized. When you use the same load in one rifle for 50 years, like my 6mm, even with a bad memory, you tend to memorize those. It's the ones I use for multiple things and may have a half dozen loads for it, like one of my 260's, I had short range and long range target loads, long range varmint and long range deer, short range heavy bullets for deer in thicker areas etc. For each of these I had the scope settings for the different distances. This info is gone if I didn't have some loads in a case for it. That's a lot of work and shooting to redo that info. That's also where it pays to have good optics. Some you can crank on the turrets regularly and they always to where they are supposed to and back to zero. The scopes available in this century are light years above the junk we had when I first started and have spent a small fortune over the past 15 years upgrading optics on the rifles normally use .

For almost ever since I started reloading in 1965, I've kept all my information in a three ring binder, broken down by gun with all it's specs and each load for it. Well, since I've started working up loads for my 6.5CM, I am yet to find that three ring binder. Almost 55 years worth of valuable (to me) information and I've spent almost two weeks, no telling how many hours of pulling out and searching, and it's not to be found. Talk about feeling sick! That's over 30 guns, 22 of these are rifles I will have to go back and measure max cases length, depth to lands, max OAL that will go in the mags and all the other data I use. Not counting all the load data that was developed over the years. The only saving grace right now, there's only about 1/2 dozen of those rifles I shoot from time to time, most just collect dust, but if I ever want to shoot them for more than the few rounds I have stored for them, I'm screwed. I am fairly computer savvy but for some reason, I never really learned to develop spread sheets or I could have had all that info backed up several times. I was too dumb to make me copies off all the info to store in a second. backup binder. Didn't have to foresight to think something would ever happen to that one. I'm still hoping it shows up, but I picked up some 3x5 index cards so I can start all over again, starting with the 6.5CM. The moral of this, if you reload and don't want to feel like the idiot I do right now, have some way to store a backup to the data you are developing.

That am very true. The problem is, the average boat owner may not have anything done for several years, and things change during that time. There is a auto body shop in one of the towns I go to that once had an outstanding reputation for doing quality work, and they did. Well the owner of the shop retired and turned the business over to his daughter. Over the past few years now, they are becoming to be known as the biggest ripoff in town. Based on their past reputation, my granddaughter took her brand new Nissan in to have latex paint over spray off a contractor had gotten on parking lot full of cars. Her boss also took his new Maserati. They did more damage to the vehicles than the original claim was. She cursed both of them out, they didn't do that damage and told them to get off her property. The insurance company that was supposed to pay for the work, canceled payment, and what really shot the shop in the foot, my granddaughter works in claims for a major insurance company, and her boss is one of the upper executives. This company had the shop listed on of their preferred business list. That episode took them off that list.

This day and time, it doesn't have to make since, it could have just been a customer mad about something stupid. At the one hear me, the Marine section is the only place they have windows. He may have been protesting their selling guns.

As long as you don't have to put a sharp bend in it, don't see where there would be a problem. Too many or too sharp of a bend can cause the cable to be hard to slide inside the housing.

Look at the Hot Foot and see if it has and end on it or just the cable going through some sort of fastener and a strap or clamp holding the housing. Hopefully it's just a cable going through a fastener, if so check with the dealer and see if he has the end that goes in the control box. Normally, they just have a small setscrew in them that attaches it to the cable. So, to answer your question, if it's the right length, you might be able to move it from the hot foot to the control box. Depending on the make/model, the control box may already have the end that attaches to the cable in it, just don't have the cable. Now, if there are two control cables coming out of the control head, the cable is there, just rolled up or tucked away somewhere and all you will need to do is find the end and connect it to the motor. Some models don't have removable ends. The cables have to be purchased the length you need and both ends are attached.

I've seen those but never used a ring that has any kind of insert. I guess I'm too old school and want the solid contact. I want to be absolutely sure there is nothing that might move or shift slightly when fired. I even use Devcon to bed my rails/bases when I mount and locktite them. Just like when bedding an action to help relieve any stresses that might be caused by poor contact surfaces. Things just get very violent when that 60k pounds of pressure hits them and I'm extremely critical about my rifles setup. Not saying they are not good, and are probably great if you don't want to spend the time and effort to lap them. It's just I have never used rings like that, like the old chocolate, vanilla ice cream saying, everybody has there own likings.

If you ever did, and saw how bad a lot of them need it, you would probably never put another scope without doing it. Now, I will say, I've never bought any of these $200 - $300 rings, with the fancy precision title on them, so can't speak for those. I have bought a ton of those in the $50 to $150 price range and don't know of a set I've owned that didn't need lapped to make and even or full contact. I've had some so bad, they would probably damage the scope tube if torqued down as they were out of the box. Pacific Tool and Gauge actually makes a reamer for them, but that's more for the professional that hasn't got the time it takes to sit there lapping a set steel rings. I thought about this while sitting lapping a new set of 34mm rings to go on my M700 I've built. They were one of the worst I've come across, and this was a not so cheap, popular brand rings. They were bad enough, I took them off to double check and redo the alignment with the ring alignment tool set but didn't help.

One word of caution when screwing around with the oil injection system. If you take hoses loose, drain hoses, or do anything that removes the oil from the system. Premix about five gallons of gas, and run that when you first start running the motor after doing your work. Yes, that's double oiling the motor, hopefully, but if the oil injection has an air pocket or the pump cavitates in a pocket of air, or something is still not right, it saves your motor until the system has run long enough to purge any air pockets out. I don't care how much or how good you bleed the system after working on it, It's better to be safe than sorry.

Wasn't trying to hijack the post and definitely didn't intend on post something offensive, but a comment I made about shooting a deer in the head was considered that by gimruis so I erased that line. So, lets not go any further with it so OPs post doesn't get interfered with any more than it already has.

Yea but how many can do this consistently. Finished the 6.5CM, made 10 break-in shots, cleaning between each, and adjusting scope. It had stopped copper fouling so I shot one five shot group at 100yards, shooting off the tool box on my truck. The black center on that target is about 3/4". A penny covers the five shots. This is no load building or tweaking done, just five generic bullets out of 15 I loaded to break it in. I probably shoot more a year than most deer hunters will shoot in a lifetime, and most deer shots a way less than 100 yards, unless you are a Texan hunting around feeders, and ever most of them are less than 100. It boils down to confidence. OK

The first rifle I built for my Granddaughter when she was 13, was a 260. For almost 50 years my preferred caliber was the 6mm Remington out to 300 yards and 7mm Magnum beyond that, but was thinking I should go with something that had a little more punch than a 6mm for her, since I only make head shots with mine and she would probably be making body shots. After building hers and shooting it, I grew kind of found of that caliber so I built me model 7, 260 with a 20" Shilen barrel. The thing is ungodly accurate at 500 yards and needless to say, I haven't shot my 6mm or 7mm Maq for several years. Oh, and the first deer she shot with it, was a head shot. However she is a very good shot. The people at the range that know her, called her "little Annie Oakley" because she can out shot most of them. She consistently shoots 2" groups at 500 yards with it, but she is also a very good instinct shooter with a 22, that's why the gave her that nick name. Before anyone gets on their high horse about head shots, since I started shooting that 6mm in 1969, I've never had to go look for a deer that I shot in the head, dead as a hammer right where they stood. Now, how many can say that, that make body shots. I hunted down shot deer for four years, shot with a Marlin 336C 30-30. Got tired of that and went with something that had way more hydro shock and way more accurate. Now, I'm not saying I made head shots at 300 yards, but could if I wanted to. I'm a meat hunter, not a trophy hunter, care nothing about those big tough older deer. I usually let big bucks walk, in favor of a smaller deer or doe, so if I didn't have a good, clean shot, I didn't take it.

I don't like to mess with the outside of the barrel once it has been stress relieved, and don't care to stress relieve one myself because sometimes they can pick up a slight bend. I use a lot of Shilen barrels, this is my fifth build with theirs and have been very happy with them, their #7, 6.5 SS, select, match grade cut to 26" on final finish, is what I'm using on this build. They won't warranty one if you even flute it. I also use Kreiger barrels but their lead time has gotten so long, almost a year, that I have to order the barrel one year, and build the rifle the next. The 6.5CM was a spur of the moment thing, I have a 260 I built several years ago that shoots extremely well, and decided to do a CM just to compare the two. When I plan one out, I order all my parts and build it the following year, but this one didn't get planned out. I'm having to do this one in two stages, Pacific Tool and Gauge have such a lead time on their bolts, I'm going ahead in building it with the old bolt, but doing the machine work for the new one. This new receiver came with such an oversize raceway, my .705 reamer didn't even touch the front, but it only measure .706 so I left it and ordered a .703 bolt. Remington has gotten so sloppy with their machine work, I guess for my next one, I'm going to order a .715 raceway reamer. It's a pretty sloppy fit when they machine their raceways to .702 in the back and .706 in the front, and their bolts only measure .690. I went ahead and cut the relief in the barrel to .709 to give clearance for the PT&G bolt and I didn't modify the factory bolt so I'm hoping I won't have to do anything to the barrel when the new bolt gets here. The headspace will be .001 or less so that will leave a little fudge factor on chamber depth and if it needs to be a little deeper, I can hand ream it a couple thousands and not have to go through the hour of setup in my barrel jig to do anything with the barrel. I always pin my recoil lug so taking the barrel off doesn't affect the bedding but I had just as soon not have to take it off. I am also just a bit old fashion and prefer the classic sporter look over the chassis stock. It also makes some very surprising sleepers when I'm at the range with what looks like a plain jane, out of the box rifle and it's outshooting the guy's next to me $3000+ custom built chassis rifle. I've never tried to do anything with a Remington synthetic stock, this was the first one I've owned, but have modified the total crap out of it, adding a V bedding block, carbon fiber reinforcements, steel bottom metal for AICS magazines and hoping it will hold a group. Just to keep the cheap out of the box Remington look to it. After all, how much cheaper can you get than a Remington OEM synthetic varmint stock.

I have never owned a Savage. My brother and a couple of friends use them. They are supposed to have pretty good out of the box accuracy. My action of choice is the Model 700, I'm in the final stages of a 6.5CM build now. Since used rifles are hard to come buy, I bought one on clearance from BPS, brought it home, tore it down and started to work. I thought I was through with it a couple of weeks ago, but installing the barrel on it for the final time, (I thought) I made a very dumb mistake and destroyed the receiver, the only way to fix it was buy a new one. Received it and hopefully will have the blueprinting finished tomorrow. The fun part of this is, you normally do the receiver and then thread the barrel to fit it. Well, the barrel was done for the other receiver so now I have to make the threads in the receiver match the barrel. A lot more of a challenge making the existing threads in the receiver match the existing threads on the barrel.