Way2slow

If a battery will last you all day and you don't mind the few extra minutes of travel time, then I wouldn't see the need of an outboard. Many of the smaller water shed ponds/lakes don't allow outboards, no matter the size of the motor. The biggest thing is, at that 3.5-4mph, that's probably full thrust and the TM battery isn't going to last very long at full thrust. I have a little 96 model 4hp Mercury I've used on my 12ft jon a few times in the mouth of smaller rivers that works great and would probably easily push your boat 5mph. It will dang near plane that 12ft with two people in it So, for a motor, I would look for something along the lines of a 4-6 hp in one of the major name brands. You can probably find a good, not to old, used one in that price range, and they are fairly light, I think my 4 only weighs about 45 pounds. Personally, I would stay away from these imported, Korean/Chinese etc. motors you see for a couple hundred dollars. Stick with a Japanese or American made, but most of the smaller motors made in the past several years, even with an American Brand name are going to be made in Japan. and even some of those are coming out of China, but I would avoid anything not from Japan or US.

I said a little deck. If I was doing the project Mjmj has going, I think I would have used aluminum. That's a huge amount of weight being added to that boat. Looks to me like someone is building a lead sled or planning on grossly over power it. However, that's why I don't get into the construction projects. I'm not an expert.

I don't get into construction projects because there are too many experts but if I was doing this for myself, I would use 1/2" MDO plywood and depending on the length of run I was wanting the size metal. Just doing a little deck on the front of my jon for TM, a place to step, sit and stand if I wanted to, I use 1", angle about 16ga. The MDO I've used is strong enough, it does not need a lot of bracing. On a longer 3' or so run, you can always box it so there's a center support leg. More than strong enough and a whole lot cheaper than all the bigger stuff. Unless you are a good TIG welder, would not even consider tubing because of the joints.

CountryboyinDC, If you happen to read this, I've discovered another manufacturing defect in this Marlin you might run into with yours since it has the same receiver as mine. After mine started getting a little dirty, which is only a handful of rounds of those Thunderbolts, it starts have some feed problems and the bolt is very lazy about closing. Pull the trigger assembly out, clean it and the inside of the receiver off a little and it goes back to OK for a little while. I haven't cleaned it the last couple of times I've shot it so today it was really slow and if you let the bolt ease to, it wouldn't close completely. Tired of it, I decided to figure out the problem. The main problem I found was when they sprayed the coating on the receiver, they also coated the inside top of the receiver and the stuff was flaking and gumming up, and with a little dirty gritty powder up there also, it was not pretty. Since the top of the bolt slides along the top of the receiver, that was not good. I gently scrapped what was left of that coating off, used some Flitz some cleaning patch on the end of my finger and polished it so it was smooth. I also polished the top of the bolt to where it was nice and shiny. Since the hammer is also another major friction point, I polished the top of it and the bolt surface it rubs on. Now, you can't make the bolt stick open any and it goes to battery with a nice snap. Never would do that before. Yours might work great, but if you run into a sluggish bolt, you might want to check there first.

Don't know what size boat, but the typical trailer for most boats of any size is approximately 8' wide, some are even an inch or two more. Most wide transom glass boats are going to be over 90" so no matter how you look at it, it's going to be difficult. You even heard the old saying, like trying to put five pounds of poop in the three pound bag. To even make it reasonably practical to back the trailer through it, you will need a foot of clearance on each side.

They charge $100 and it cost me $14 to mail it to them with the additional insurance, and that includes return shipping if it less than 6 or 8 pounds, (I think it on there site). Mine was so lite I didn't check. They process on Tuesdays and Fridays. Mine got there on Thursday and it was on it's way back to me on Monday buy UPS. I had it that Wednesday or Thursday, a week after I mailed it. If the gun was worth anything, I probably would have just tried to trade it in on something else, but as you say, it such a cheap rifle, they wouldn't give but very little for it. So, I had the choice of just kissing what I had in it good by or, throw another $114 into it and hope it worked. I think the $114 was worth it for how much difference it made in the rifle, it's just a shame it had to be such a cheap POS I had to spend it on. This weekend when I shot it, I shot a tube of the Stingers pretty fast to warm it up, loaded it up as fast as I could and shot 10 CCI Mini-Max Varmints and it was one small ragged hole, probably about a 1/4" group, so the sucker will shoot. That was shooting off a bipod in the front and a rabbit eared, bench rest bag under the stock and a scope strong enough I can see white all the way around the center dot in the reticle, and I'm still a pretty good shot. No where near what I once was but feel I can still hold my own. That is one thing I can say about it, once that barrel is warmed, it don't much care what ammo you shoot, it makes bug holes with it, except for those funky sounding shots that no telling where they are going to hit, but if you get a string that shoots the same, they will be in one hole. The thing is, I have a couple thousand Federal Target loads that do the same thing as the Thunderbolts, so that's over 6,000 of junky bullets. At least I do have a few thousand of the Winchester 555 bulk pack that other than the dudes, shoot ok. Back in the early 70's when Remington used to semi sponsor me and furnish me with free bullets, it was very rare to get a dud out of the couple thousand I would sometimes shoot a month if I had a couple of demo's, but buying there bulk packs of Golden Bullets now, I would get a dozen or more out of each box. At least with the Winchesters, I only get a couple. Oh, I will put my Remington 700, 223 up against your CZ any time, and bet it will beat it, at any distance.? and most anybody else's 223. Took if for the first of several first shot test at 50 yards, passed with flying colors, put the first bullet dead center bullseye and the next two about 3/8" above that one, shooting CCI Mini-Mag varmints. Then I changed scopes and zeroed that one. Still have several more of the first shot test to do.

I've redone the bedding three times, starting off free floating the barrel to get it off the stock where is was rubbing the left side of the barrel and not touching the right side. That looked like a load of buckshot was shot at the target at about 30 yards. Second time I added a pressure point at 2" from end of stock. That really made it make a serious rise in impacts as it warmed, several inches of rise. I took the pressure point out and bedded the whole barrel. That made is seriously sensitive to action mounting screw torque, Then I removed all the bedding out of the barrel channel and removed the front pillar block and bedding there, but left the rear bedding and pillar to maintain that height. I then bedded the front pillar and the full barrel length together at the same time. I used surgical elastic tubing warped tight around the action and put the screws in the action to hold alignment and keep Devcon from getting into the holes. I did not wrap any around the barrel in order to prevent that pressure from pushing down on it. Devcon is pretty thick so I depended on that to apply a slight pressure on the barrel when tightened into the stock. Once it warmed up, It would shot very tight groups but the first ten shots were almost useless for hitting anything. The conclusion I decided on that was the barrel was not stress relieved after rifling, if at anytime. Concerned it would destroy that painted on finish if I put it in my oven I decided to try 300 Below after reading reviews on them. It still likes a warm barrel best, but I think that's a common trait of rimfires, but now it will put the first bullet close enough to hit most anything you could want at least the size of a quarter at 50 yards. I still had to play with the action screws torque a little to get it right. I didn't use a torque gauge of any kind, just went by feel, but after about 60 years of turning wrenches, I have a pretty good feel for it. I also modified the crap out of the trigger to get it down to a touch over two pounds. Now I will make a number of trips to try different ammos in a cold barrel for the first 10 shots, to see which one I want for my go to ammo. I still have 4000 of the Thunderbolts, and they are a pain in the butt because you never know what the next shots going to do. Shoot normal, pop like a hyper velocity and make a thud like a subsonic, and those have a very different POI from the rest. Those things are also ungodly nasty in a semiautomatic.

It scares me when somebody thinks I might know something about these things. They say you can fool some of the people all of the time, all of the people some of the time, but you can't fool all the people all of the time.

You only need one circuit breaker, and you don't need a battery box with a built in one. I prefer these https://www.amazon.com/MASO-Waterproof-Circuit-Breaker-Suitable/dp/B07JZPBTXJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=50+amp+trolling+motor+breaker&qid=1580708662&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A1I897MYO1G9Y1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMVczMThLOUxORVpHJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDE0MTIyU0EwR003UEVRVldVJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4OTI5MTIzQUowQ05CNlRYTUVWJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== You can use one of these https://www.amazon.com/Rig-Rite-1050-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B003YZ3O3I/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=50+amp+trolling+motor+breaker&qid=1580708775&sr=8-16 Bass Pro Shop usually has them and try to find one with larger terminals and heavier buss that connects to the battery. Connect the circuit breaker to the one of the battery terminals, it can be negative or positive, doesn't matter. Connect both TM leads. both positive if connection to positive battery terminal or both negative if you are connecting to the negative terminal, to the other side of the circuit breaker. That way if you try running both motors at the same time, once they get to the max rating of the breaker, it will open. The only harm in running both at the same time is it places a tremendous load on the battery, and cut your run time way down. The way you are describing this, it sounds like a 12V system, you just need to make sure both motors are 12V motors.

Final conclusion, it works. Went to town and bought a new assortment of bullets. I've never shot CCI other than those couple boxes of Stingers I bought, so I got several different ones of those I've made two trips to the pit so the rifle could cool. Both times it started off shooting very close to the 1" center dot and will place most of the subsequent shots inside a 1" circle with the Thunderbolts, other than those that give you that real weak crack or super loud crack, those, no telling where they are going to hit. All of this is at 50 yards. I really saw no need in trying it at 100. With the CCI Mini Mag, 36 and 40 grain, it will keep all those in the 1" black circle. It likes a warm barrel better than a cold one. If you shoot fast like I did on the target posted, it will start shooting bug holes, just putting bullet on top of bullet, but give it five minutes rest and it goes back to just shooting inside the black circle. However, I didn't buy a target rifle, and it's basically doing what I was expecting it to do the first time I shot it. It's just taken me three weeks and a hellava lot of work and extra money to get there. I also reset my iron sights on the Henry and zeroed them at 50 yards, that was tough on these old eyes. I had to keep track of which one of those images I was seeing I was supposed to shoot at, but we got it done. When done testing, there were hundreds of shotgun hulls and 9mm pistol brass on the ground about 30 yards from me, so I spent a tube of bullets in both rifles shooting those things and sending them flying. Don't know that I missed a one, missed hitting the brass on a couple of the shotgun hulls and just poked a hole in the plastic, but hit the brass on the most of them and didn't miss a pistol brass. So, I think it will make a pretty good plinker. All together, I've probably put 500 rounds in it today. You know, I was just looking and those targets I post look large, but those are five targets on a piece of 8 1/2x11 printer paper and trying to see that little one inch dot at 50 yards with open sights was rough.

Thanks, maybe somebody will get something out of it. Like, don't buy a Marlin, at least not one with a stainless steel barrel. Since I was playing in the rain and that pit I shoot in don't drain and was very sloppy, I've got more testing to do. I shot the Marlin for this target and then tried to shoot my Henry, what a waste. I just got through taking the scope off and putting my sights back on, you have to remove the rear sight to uncover the scope mounting holes, so now I get the zero them again. It's also looking like the brick of Yellow Jackets might be another $40 wasted. Since doing the cryo on the barrel, it didn't seem to shoot them as good. I only tried one five shot group since I didn't have the recoil spring in for those, but that group was not very pretty. I tried a 10 shot group of CCI subsonics and didn't fare much better with those. If it ever quits raining so that pit can dry a little, I have a bunch more testing and retesting I need to do before I can speak for certain on anything with it right now. I have to be careful how much I'm in the rain, I might dissolve. Sugar melts when it gets wet, poop dissolves.

Couldn't stand it, I went in the rain and mud to try it. Cold clean barrel, shooting 5 shot groups @ 50 yards with Remington Thunderbolts and pretty much ripping them off, doubt there was ever more than two seconds between shots (most were much less). Reloaded as quick as I could get 10 rounds in it and shot the last two. Some of the flyer's and stray shots were those funky sounding loads you get and a couple were pulls from shooting so fast. That target is only spaced 1/2" and the black center it 1" with a 3/8" center dot. The order shot was top left was first, top right was second, center was third, bottom left was fourth and bottom right was last. So based on the results from this target, looks like freezing it might have helped, a whole hellava lot. Before those first 10 would have been on another target several inches away. It's still only good for a pllnker, but at least it's usable for that. Before, it was useless for anything more that a few feet. One other side note. Don't waste your money buying a scope mount to try putting a scope on a Henry lever action 22. I have an extra scope and getting where I can't see to shoot open sights that well. So, figure what the heck, I ordered a mount from Henry to put the scope on my Golden Boy. Totally money thrown away. The scope sits so high and so far forward it's almost impossible to use. You would almost need a pistol scope and even then, it's sitting up too high to see. Also, the thumb tab you can put on the hammer to offset it for a scope, another waster of money. The bolt slides over the hammer in a way you can't work the lever with the thumb tab, it stops the bolt from coming back.

Talk about a barrel eater, 6mm-284, that sucker should smoke a barrel in no time. If I load my 6.5-284 to it's fullest potential for 1000 yards, 700-800 rounds and it's about done for even hitting anything at long range. If I load it down for barrel life, may as well be a 260, so I built a couple of 260's and almost never shoot the 6.5-284. Actually thinking a rebarrel to a 6.5 CM with it. Seems that's one of the hottest thing coming out of the woodwork now. I avoid wildcats because of all those other expenses. Custom die's, fire forming brass, custom reamers, etc.

A Remington 700 has the potential to make a very good shooter. I always say they are like the 3.0 OMC looper outboard, out of the box, they do ok, but in the hands of the right person, can be made into a real hotrod. They have an excellent trigger, or at least can be made and excellent trigger. The actions are probably the most copied and desired among rifle builders. A good, stress free pillar post bedding job is critical and goes a long way to making the out of the box Remington shoot. Proper inletting of the stock for the bedding job is critical. Not all bedding jobs are the same and if not properly inlet, it can make the bedding worthless. Getting the trigger tweaked properly is necessary. I prefer the Remington trigger over any of the high dollar, after market, but only after I've massaged it to my likings. I can usually get most 700's to shoot sub MOA without doing anything to the barrel and action. Lapping the bolt helps, but there you have to be very careful unless it's during a rebarrel. Over do it and you can create too much headspace or have the bolt handle hitting the action. Now, if you want to get real serious, get you something like a 260 or 6.5 Creedmore barrel from one of the top barrel makers, and have it fitted by one of the builders that has a good reputation for blueprinting the actions. That properly bedded into a stock, and shooting the right load, pretty much makes five hole groups that 3/8" at 100 yards would be on the ugly side. I just sent my grandson a 1976, factory stocked 700, 270, that was shooting 1/2" groups at 100 yards on a bad day. I also sent him 200 rounds of the load I developed for him and it.

How pretty do you want it. A wire brush on a side grinder will knock the most of it off. Then spray it with one of the rust stops that neutralize the rust and makes it hard. Spray you some primer and then some black paint, and you are done. for the Winch and Tongue jack, you can usually spray penetrating oil in the areas that need to move, over a couple of days and sometimes get them freed up. If all else fails, Tractors Supply has a pretty good selection of new ones. Good change you will need to replace the wiring and lights also. The insulation gets very brittle, cracks off and shorts out, and the rust wipes out any connections the lights might have had.

It's raining and supposed to rain all day, so no punching holes in paper but I did go shoot 28 CCI Stingers into the dirt. Figured this would be a good candidate to try a product, Dyna-Tek Bore Coat I bought a long time ago and haven't had a barrel I felt I wanted to take a chance with. It's been so long, the company has changed names from Dynamic Finishes to Dyna-Tek and Dyna-Tek appears to no longer supports it, so it has been several years, but I see MidwayUSA still sells it. Anyway, it's supposed to put a ceramic coating in the barrel and you have to fire a bunch rounds to cook it in after it has dried, so I went, sat in the truck and wasted 28 of those Stinger rather quickly I haven't found a use for yet. The stuff is supposed to make a barrel super easy to clean and prevent the carbon doughnut from building in the throat. When I got back, I put some of my favorite bore cleaner, Deaton's Deep Clean (DDC) that you can't buy anymore, on a bore mop, made a couple of passes through the barrel and pulled a bore snake through it. I know 28 rounds is not much but I will say I'm surprised with results so far. Down the bore is spotless and only minor traces of carbon in the throat where you get the doughnut. This is the throat where the carbon doughnut forms, very slight traces now. You have to luv that great machine work they did in that throat. This is just getting into the lands where you normally get a lot of carbon fouling. You can see a very slight hint of copper but that's all. If it continues to work as well as initial indications, might have to try it in another rifle. We will see what happens when couple hundred of those nasty Thunderbolts have been sent down it. One thing, this stuff is supposed to be applied to a barrel that has been cleaned to bare metal. Since I had already cleaned this barrel to bare metal before I shipped it off, and for how hard it is to get one to bare metal, I decided I didn't want to wait until after I had tested it to apply the bore coat. I would like to have, but I really didn't want to spend another few hours getting it cleaned back to bare metal after testing the barrel. You may think you clean your barrels but very few will ever get it to bare metal, it can takes hours and hours of cleaning to do that.

A rodent getting into place he's not supposed to be or destroying property, I have no problem getting rid of it by what ever means will work. Trapping game for the hides etc, I'm to much of a softy, I have to use an instant kill trap even when getting rid of beaver in our pond. I just don't like the idea of making any animal suffer to die. Even when hunting, if I can't make a head shot, it usually keeps walking.

Well, I'm not enough of a rimfire shooter when it comes to long range, so no way on this planet I'm going to pay over a "grand" for a finale. All that does is increase the value of the regular used one you come across from time to time. I have probably put a box car load of 22 bullets down the barrels of 22 rifles but 99% of that was close range instinct stunt shooting. People throw up coke cans and shoot them with a shotgun. I threw up 22 casings and shot them with a 22. Put tape over the hole in a 1/2" flat washer, pitch it up in the air and when it lands, it will have a 22 bullet hole through it. Back in the early 70's, the guy that taught me in the mid 50's, how to shoot when I was a snotty nose kid, was with Remington and had it all set up for me to join them as exhibition shooter and they pulled the plug on adding any more, and let several go. Financial cutbacks. For a long time though, Remington kept my supplied the bullets and would swap out the 552's they gave me for new ones. I still did some free lance demo' and they sponsored that. When we finally said goodbye to each other when I joined the Air Force (I was 27 when I joined) and went to Italy, they let me keep the 552 I have. Most of those skills have gone with my eye sight. It's hard to shoot something you can't see. I used to think it was a waste to scope a 22, now most of mine have scopes.

Oh, it still shoots very good, that's the problem. Every time I look at it and think I really need to go ahead and order a new barrel, I take it out and shoot a three shot group with it. When it prints a 1" group @ 300 yards it makes me change my mind, and yea, the fact that a new barrel may not shoot as good as the barrel that's on is the main reason I haven't replaced it. The rust has been there for over 30 years that I know of, but it's just my nature of being that frigging perfectionist, and just knowing it's there that bothers me. Truth be known it's probably been in there since it lived in the roof of my Bronco it's first six years and was seldom taken down except to shoot and cleaned maybe once a year or so until 1975. It stayed in that gun rack so long, the rubber on the gun rack it was in melted into the finish on the stock. Several years ago I stripped and refinished it with an oil finish that looks nice. It's just when I get bored with what I'm doing, I look at it and think, that's something that needs done. Since I've converted over to mostly using the 260, it seldom gets used, and will is not likely to get used by me, but I still like the old thing and would never get rid of it.

Don't think you can easily replace the barrel. For one, finding one, other than used take off barrels, a few of them around. The biggest problem is getting the barrel out of the receiver. I just tried that so I could send just the barrel. I even made a special punch to knock it out, there was no way it was coming out without a lot of heat. I took it to about as much as I thought it could handle without ruining the finish on the receiver, it would not budge. Since that's a painted on finish, I was not sure how it would hold up to what 300 Below was going to put it through. Guess I will find out tomorrow. I am more than capable of refinish it if needed, but that's just a lot more work I will have to put into this thing I was hoping to avoid.

Some dovetail rings put a setscrew in the base of the ring to lock it down onto the top of the receiver. The M*Carbo and DIP picatinny rails have six set screws that lock it on top of the receiver. All of these are going to leave ugly marks in the top of the receiver if you plan to take the scope off, so you might want to opt out of getting something like that. Just make some kind of a mark, maybe a pencil, so you can tell if it starts walking back. Yea, I don't know what kind of wood Marlin uses on those, it's definitely plain with no grain much. That's why I went the few extra bucks and got the laminated stock. looks much better. You will know pretty quick when you start shooting a target if the barrel is worth a darn. If you can shoot a tube of bullets and they are within a couple of inches at 50 yards, you got lucky. Don't try free floating the barrel, mine sucked doing that, and just about everyone I read about basically agreed, that pressed in, pinned in barrel doesn't do well free floated.

If UPS delivers mine tomorrow, I've still got a few hours work to do on it before it's ready to shoot, so I won't be shooting it tomorrow. Probably Friday or Saturday. If it finally shoots in a manner I'm satisfied with, I will give you detailed description of everything I've done. I'm not sure how gun savvy you are or what capabilities you have. One thing they are in serious need of is pillar post. I made mine but have a lathe. Those action screws are all kinds of mushy feeling and very sensitive to how tight they can be. Pillar post firms them up and locks it down very nicely. HeavyDuty, my Golden Boy was rusted badly in the barrel. Come to find out, Academy had it a year and a half before it was sold, so don't know where it had been. I called Henry, they sent me a box with prepaid shipping to ship it back to them, put a new barrel on it and had it back to me in about a week. They do stand behind their product.

Looking at the picture, that looks like the model with the SS barrel and regular wood stock. The same as mine but mine has a fancy laminated stock. That also looks like the same Hammers scope I ordered that came with the rings I never put on. Right after ordering it, I ordered and Bushnell instead, pitched that one under the work bench. I sure hope yours shoot a lot better than mine did out of the box. You have a hard row to plow if it's like mine. SuperDuty, I also have a Henry Golden boy granddaughter gave me. Don't know how it shoots, haven't really tried it. Only had it about a year or so. All I can say about it, it's pretty. CountryboyinDC. One thing. if those rings don't have a setscrew in the center to lock them in place, Be sure to mark them so you can tell if they slide in the dovetail. That's a major problem with dovetail mounts, they are extremely difficult to keep them from sliding on the Model 60 for some reason.

When I get it back tomorrow, I have brass laps that are domed on the end made to lap the crowns. I'm going to lap that one before I shoot it. It's not "bad" but it's not a crisp, sharp edge like I like to see so I'm giving it a little TLC. There's still a couple of things I have in mind. I have always said I could make any rifle shoot better, gonna see if I can't keep this one from making a liar out of me. The only Marlin I've ever owned was my first deer rifle, a 336C. I got it because I thought it looked cool back when I was 16. Finally got tired of having to shoot them more than once or having to look for them and bought me a 6mm. Never had one move out of it's tracks with that one. I fixed a Glenfield that my dad found where this one should been, in a dumpster. But that was years ago, and other than getting it where it would shoot and eject a shell, I didn't shoot that one enough to know anything about it's accuracy. I've never use the cryo treatment on a barrel, so I'm kind of anxious to see how this goes when I get it back. I might start making it a standard practice on all my barrels. I just received my Go/No-Go gauges for a Tikka action I'm building one out of. Might hold off installing the barrel and send it off if I like the results from this Marlin barrel. I've heard nothing but good things about the 300 Below's work.

Yep, I have 10/22 Take Down and bought my granddaughter a 10/22 carbine. I was just looking for a "cheap" semi, that had similar lines and feel as my 552. The Marline has a reputation for being accurate so I figured I would give it a try. Apparently the accurate ones are the carbon steel barrels or most peoples definition of accurate is not the same as mine. I guess it's accurate if it will hit a coke can at 50 feet. Anyway, another lesson learned about the old saying "buy cheap ****, get cheap ****). Now it's just down to the challenge of taking the cheap POS and seeing if I can make a shooter out of it. I like the looks and feel of it, but if I can't get it to shoot one inch groups or very close to that at 50 yards, I will never be happy with it. Right now, I would be happy with it putting the first shot from a cold clean barrel within two inches of the 10th shot, before I shipped it off, it wouldn't put them within four inches of each other. One thing, I was reading the manual to see if they said anything about torqueing the action screws, which they don't but read one very funny statement they make. They do not recommend cleaning the barrel. Says that right in the manual.