Way2slow

There are several different concepts. Probably one of the better sources of information is a guy that goes by arrowdodger that has videos on youtube that will teach you almost anything you want to know about the Marlin 60. What I did since I didn't want to start destroying parts, I started by ordering the M*Carbo spring kit https://www.mcarbo.com/store/p/27-Marlin-60-Trigger-Spring-Kit.aspx they have a video showing how to install it. That only brings it down to a little over four pounds. After that, I used Flitz to polish all contact surfaces involved with the trigger, that smoothed it up some but only drop it a couple of ounces. To go any lower than this will required some patience, a diamond file I had to grind one edge on to about a 30 degree angle and several times of taking the trigger assembly apart. I modified the hammer. Being a new rifle, I didn't want to take a chance on screwing it up without having a new part so I ordered a new hammer as backup. Didn't need it when done, but there was always that possibility. The major cause of the hard trigger pull is the way the hammer and sear are designed. You will notice the sear is cut on and upward angle where it contacts the hammer. If you look closely at the hammer, you will see it's also cut at a slight angle so it locks in over the sear. When you pull the trigger, you are having to raise the hammer ever so slightly to make it clear the sear. The stronger the hammer spring, the more pressure it takes to lift the hammer, meaning the greater the trigger pull. The kit gives you a weaker spring. Some cut turns out of the hammer spring. I didn't want to cut the spring, if you get it too weak, you can start running into misfire problems. A WORD OF CAUTION: ANTHING BEYOUND THIS POINT CAN CREAT AN UNCONTROLABLE, FULLY AUTOMATIC RIFLE OR ONE THAT CAN ACCIDENTLY DISCHARGE IF DROPPED OR BUMPED. To correct this problem, I chose to modify the hammer, since it's the main cause of the problem. Taking enough of that sharp edge of the sear off and making it flat on top until the hammer is sitting on the flat and then removing metal from the edge of that flat so it doesn't have as much distance to travel will get the pull where you want it. This would be much easier than modifying the hammer but, this is also going to make the up into the bolt path so it's possible the bolt will drag on it when going back forward and cause possible feed problems. To avoid this, I chose to modify the hammer. You may want to try the sear, your call. The route I took was to flatten the contact surface on the hammer and reduce it's size. The only thing that is going to work for this because of the very narrow space and small surface you are working on is a diamond file (I used a 400 grit with one edge ground to a chisel edge) .https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Diamond-Coated-Flat-File-Set-6-Different-Grits/232494117370?hash=item3621bab1fa:g:RAYAAOSwY~1aAjFG The hammer is too hard for a hardened steel fil to cut and sand paper is not going to get in there and keep it flat. The first thing I did was to flatten the knife edge of the sear just slightly and took a little of the edge against the hammer. This was just to give it a little larger wear surface. When I say a little, I probably had no more than a .010" flat surface on top of the sear. Then I did the hammer. I used 240 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a hard flat surface and drag that front edge of the hammer over it, maintain it's shape and reduced that face by .020". Then I used the file I ground to slowly take some of that angle off the matting surface. I must have put that hammer in and out a dozen times. I was going for a 2.5# pull, and was at 2.8, just a slight more to get it to 2.5 took it to 2.2, so be slow and careful. That's why I ordered a new hammer before I started. To make sure I had one if things went south on me. I probably put a 1000 rounds through it since doing the trigger, and it still functioned perfectly. The barreled action will be back from 300 Below tomorrow, so hopefully it will put two bullets in a row close to the same spot now. Mine was the stainless steel barrel and had a terrible problem with walking the bullets until it had about 15 rounds to warm the barrel a little. I've got more time in trying to get this thing to shoot that I put into a custom build of a 700 action. It came out of the box with a lot of problems typical to cheap guns. One other thing, this is a source for upgrade parts https://www.diproductsinc.com/Products.aspx?CAT=3603 I first bought M*Carbo's picatinny rail adapter and it was machined way too wide and had to send it back. I ordered the one from DIP and it fit perfectly. They also had the silver to match my receiver, but they are $10 more expensive. Also, the trigger upgrade, I liked the one in the rifle so if you like it, you can drill and tap yours for a set screw. Also notice the setscrew has to be off center to the left to match up with the disconnect. I used a 6-32x3/4" but after I finished all the mods I've had to do, Pilar post bedding the action, sanding the barrel channel so it's not pressing against the barrel and bedding it, it end up the set screw is back almost back to the trigger and does very little. So, if you have more free travel that you like, you can do the setscrew for very little versus a high price trigger with the setscrew. Two things about the trigger, after changing it, make sure it does not fire on safe, if it does, back it out a little until it doesn't. Also, if you have a problem with it not cocking, locking the hammer back, back it out just a little until it locks back every time. One other word of caution, never put the trigger assembly in the action without the bolt being locked back. It bends that little wire they use for the ejector and make it where it won't eject the shells. If you haven't read the manual, you lock the bolt back by pushing in on the charge handle when the bolt is pulled back.

Back before time began, I drove Ford. In 1969 I bought a 69 Charger R/T with the 426 Hemi. In 13 months, the rear end was whining, transmission was jumping out of gear, the front ball joints were shot, the engine was smoking and using oil, and the seat covers were splitting at the seams and had constant electrical problems, that was my one and only MoPar, went back to Fords. In 1976 I went to Italy for several years where I got a Ferrari 308 and my a Porsche 911, (some good stories behind those but not getting into) and a Fiat 850 to run around in. Shipped the Porsche back and drove it along with my 73 Bronco I kept while overseas. In 86 we bought our first Chevy, 1986 Astro Van with all the bells and whistles. In 1990 I went to Sicily and took the Van over and shipped it back with us and continued to drive it. My wife loved that van, drove it for 300,000 miles and other than normal maintenance, oil changes, transmission fluid changes, brakes, shocks, tires etc, I replaced the TPS, AC compressor and alternator, was the only maintenance ever done on it. I sold it in Warner Robins and still see it running around from time to time. In 2001, bought the first Toyota, 2001 Camry. In 2006 we gave that one to our daughter (who later totaled it) and bought a 2006 Rav4 year end closeout deal, hated that one, way too small, so traded it for a 2007 High Lander. Three deer did a number on it so we traded it for a 2008 Highlander. Still drive the 2008, has 196,000 miles and other than normal service, one set of spark plugs, and one set of brake pads, never had a minutes trouble with it. Still cleans up to look almost new, wife likes it and has no desire to trade it. Now, those were our primary vehicles, I had a number other vehicles mixed in with those, several front wheel drive Fords until I finally said I would never own another, and one Thunderbird my wife bought without even asking me. She got shafted and learned her lesson on that one. I've been driving Toyota pickups since 1988 and still driving my 1993 4WD. Several 4WD Chevy pickups and a couple of Vans, still driving a 2500HD, (when towing the boat). Plus a mix of other vehicles like the VW Beetle and 2003 Century. Dang near had as many vehicles as I have had boats.

I have a 12 foot jon that weighs 88 pounds I use for small ponds and places it would be almost impossible to get a trailer into just for that purpose. I tried using my 1436 Lowe and at 140 pounds, add battery, TM and tackle, it was way too heave for one old fart to drag and load. I could do it, but though of doing it made me not want to go. Even with two people it got old real quick. I found this old used jon and it's perfect, still stable with two people and gear, and easy to drag and load. I guess I should have mentioned, I use a 6 1/2' short bed pickup and even with a 14', if you throw the battery in the back of the boat, (naturally the back is going to be up toward the cab) TM near the back and the rest of your gear in the middle but toward the back of the boat, one rope around the front to keep it from sliding and it hauls fine. However, you will find after doing this a while, it gets very old handling all the gear several times and lugging that battery in and out and carrying it. You will find yourself looking for a trailer to use other than those places where you can't get a trailer in. Then again, you will find yourself backing a trailer into places you would have never dreamed you would after you get tired of handling that stuff.

Just a question, not disagreeing. Don't turbocharged and super charged engines require premium, high octane gas, at about 40 cents more per gallon. Boosting compression increases fuel economy as far as miles per gallon, but is it saving you anything if you are having to pay 20% more for the fuel it takes to run it. Like a diesel today, yes, they get better fuel mileage, but since having gone to sulfur free fuel, the cost per gallon pretty much offset that additional fuel mileage, dollars spent at the pump can be close to the same. Like the VW Beetle convertible of my wife's, yea, it gets 30mpg, but is supposed to be run of 91 octane. Her Highlander, a whole bunch bigger and more comfortable to drive gets 25mpg and runs 87 octane. Take a trip and both are going to cost close to the same, but traveling is a whole lot nicer in the Highlander.

You have to realize one thing about the internet. Take everything with a grain of salt. There is not a product made that is 100% reliable. If a manufacture can keep his failure rate to 5%, he is jumping with joy and most are happy with 10% and some are even greater than 20%. Now those high percentage of customers that are happy with their product don't get on the internet and post how great it is and how much they love it. However, that small percentage that does have a problem will get on here in a heartbeat and bash the crap out of it. Then those that know nothing about the product read about all the problems that few percentage has and they pick up on the bashing. Making it sound like everyone ever made was junk. That's why I always say, "only believe half of what you see, and not a dang thing of what you hear".

Couple words of caution jumping off a boat motor. First let me say this applies to most two stroke motors. Since I have never run or even placed my hands on a four stroke, I can't speak about those. 1. When connecting jumper cables to a cranking battery, the arc created connecting and disconnecting them can cause damage to the ECU or Voltage regulator. Both make for a very expensive repair. 2. The charging system are not robust, heavy duty like a vehicles and using the charging system to charge a fully dead battery or running a bad battery that will not accept a full charge can fry the charging system. Again, very expensive repair. Now, you might say you have the key switch turned off when you connect the jumper cables so the spark won't get to the electronics, which may be true. However, the bulk of the time after jumping it off, you take the cables off with the engine running so the switch is on and the hundreds of volts that can be created by the arc, goes through the whole system. Just something to think about if you ever feel you need to jump one off. Actually, you can blow a lot of automobile charging system jumping them off. As mentioned, develop a routine and stick to it. Altering from it can leave room for all kinds of bad things to happen. You can install a power disconnect on the battery, but if you don't have a mental or written checklist, you can still forget that like you did the power switch on the dash.

I've got nothing against technology. Like said, back in the 60's and 70's, a car with 100,000 miles was consider the exception, and ready for the grave yard. Today, 400,000 on many of them is not out of the question. Other than the VW bug, there weren't many carburetor engines getting 30mpg. Not many full size cars getting 16 and mid size getting 20. Today, those are all gas guzzlers, and who would have ever thought a few years ago they would ever own a full size truck with any kind of an engine getting over 20, and now the V8's are doing it. The thing that bothers me is all this other high tech stuff they are going to. Today, you need a very specialized computer that will communicate with the computer that's communicating with a couple of other computers. You already have the ECM communicating with the Anti-lock brake computer, the transmission computer, the body computer, that's communicating with a half dozen other computers. Now they are adding in all this anti collision stuff, automatic parking and backing, and who knows what all. This all just makes a vehicle extremely expensive to maintain. A lot of this stuff they are going to, the are going proprietary with and only the dealers are going to the diagnostic equipment, and to keep it where their average mechanic can trouble shoot and repair it, it's all going modular so the whole assembly is replaced. $500 - $1000 to replace a burned out headlamp is already here in some vehicles.

Because of all the new technology going into vehicles today is the reason I'll probably never own another new one. I'm fortunate in that I have a degree in electronics, very computer and electronics knowledgeable. Also I am a master mechanic, and there's absolutely nothing I can't do to and automobile, so I know how to use the high dollar diagnostic equipment to trouble shoot and repair my own. I've always been one that if man made it, I can probably fix it. The problem today is it takes a very sophisticated computer system to diagnose one, the those are getting into the thousands of dollars and big bucks each year to keep them up to date. They are making them so it's almost cost prohibitive to buy the diagnostic equipment and they are so complicated, the average mechanic can't fix them because they don't know how to trouble shoot them, and and that goes for most of the dealerships also. Same for the new high tech outboards.

I know we are getting off the original topic, but when you mention replacement parts, there is just about no such thing now days. What few parts you can find, and like you mentioned, you have something that's only a couple years old and need something for it, you find this "DISCONTINUED". What parts are available are assemblies you have to buy at some ungodly price because some two dollar part broke.

I used to be a Die Hard Ford fan, but through the years, they have made me think more and more, you couldn't give me one. For years, I've said I would never have another front wheel drive ford vehicle. I've considered those disposable vehicles, but still thought their rear wheel drive were good. I've put almost a million miles on Ford vans while I was working as a road serves technician for industrial equipment and had very few problems with them. However even that has changed in the past couple of year from friends that have them. Just today I stopped at a Pawn and Gun shop to look for a brand of 22LR bullets. There was a failry new looking F-250 with a very large chrome front grill. The chrome on it was wavy and lifting off over the whole top and down both sides. My brother bought a 2018 Ford Super Duty and it has been in the shop almost as much as he has driven it.

I think that motor has two trigger modules. I think it also has a high and low speed coils in the stator that can make it act like a trigger module is bad. Don't know about having to reset the timing when you replace a trigger module, if so, that needs to be done on a dino because it has to be done at wide open throttle (WOT). If a dino is not handy, you can do it by backing the boat into the water until the anticav plate is a couple inches about the water, leaving it tied down on the trailer. Then watch the tach as you make a quick full throttle run of the motor, if the RPM is below 5200, pull the boat a little further out of the water, if it's above 5800, back the boat a little deeper in the water. Only hold it for a few seconds doing this. Once you get it where the rpm is in the 5500 range, get you timing light setup and have someone go WOT, again only for a few seconds while you read the timing with the light. MaKe any adjustment needed and repeat. If you have an old prop, it would be a good idea to put it on. It will be sucking all kinds of crap up off the bottom, even rocks off a concrete ramp. Also, make sure no boats are within 50 feet of the back, you will probably throwing a very healthy rooster tail out the back. One word of advise, anything I tell you about a Mercury motor, verify it by double checking with someone that knows what they are doing with them, I don't.

May be something with the carbon steel barrel doesn't stress as bad as the stainless. Most people go for the $160 carbon steel barrel and other than the massive trigger pull all Model 60's have, most seem rather happy with them, that's why I decided to buy such a cheap rifle. Of course, no one had the cheap and the only one I could find in stock anywhere withing 50 miles was the one model 60SS. Here's an example of what I'm chasing. This was at 100 yards. This was a 15 shot string that actually started on the target to the left of this one. It walked them across just like you see here, putting the last shot in the bull. A funny note this, the company I shipped it to emailed me a brochure with my order number. There was a guy that posted almost the same exact group on a target his rifle did before them freezing it.

For his boat, which is only slightly heavier than mine, I would see no problem using a 1/2 ton. I've used both and like I said, other than hills, I was perfectly happy. When I bought the 2500HD, and sold my 1500, I didn't realize I was going need a tanker truck to feed the thing. On it's best day, not towing anything, 13 mpg was seldom achieved, normally 11 - 12 mpg. My 1/2 would get 16-17mpg without the boat behind it. Where I live, I drive a minimum of 25 miles to the nearest largely populated area, so when you want anything more that a loaf of bread or other common small items, you make a 50 - 60 mile round trip to get it. What that means, that 2500HD stays sitting with a battery maintainer on it, and I only drive it to tow my boat or every now and then just to run it some. MY old 93 Toyota 4WD pickup or the wife's VW Beetle Convertible is my daily transportation. Feeding that 2500HD gets expensive.

Actually, I'm at the point of the old saying, buy cheap sh**, get cheap sh**. The cost of the rifle has increased another $120 because the barrel was total junk. Apparently on those things they don't do any normalizing or stress relief after rifling it. You never knew where the first few bullets were going to hit and then, as you shot it would gradually walk them to the target. After about 15 rounds it would shoot pretty good, unless you stopped shooting for a few minutes. There is not much to be found in the way of an aftermarket barrel because they press the barrel into the receiver and use a round pin through the top edge to hold it. So, getting the barrel out without putting enough heat on the receiver to destroy that finish on it, wasn't going to happen. I sent the barreled receiver off to 300 Below and see how their cryo process works. I've never tried it but know a few that have and read tons of good reviews on them. I'm actually looking at a CZ-457 if this doesn't work. Started to ditch this one and get one but was wanting a semi to replace my Remington 552. That's the main rifle I use for my instinct shooting and this Marlin was similar in size and shape as it.

I went the opposite direction with my 20' Dual console with a 225. I went from a 4WD 1/2 ton to a 4WD 2500HD. The 1/2 towed it fairly good @ 13.5mgp, the 2500HD 6.0, tows it no problem @ 9.5-10MPG. The 1/2 ton I could turn it around at most small boat ramps. The 2500HD I can usually turn it around in most Walmart parking lots. The huge difference comes in when you start hitting hills, the HD doesn't pay any attention to them in OD, the 1/2 ton with 350, which I had a highly modified transmission for heavy towing, still had to come out of OD. I doubt I would even tow a boat that size with a 1/2 ton in OD if its was a factory stock transmission.

Yea, it's like I tell my wife, no matter what it is I want to do, figure up what I think it's going to cost, and then multiply that number by three. For the past couple of years, that formula has been pretty close. Then a lot of times it just my nature. There is very little I can settle on doing half-a**, and as the old saying goes, it usually cost more do it the way it should be done. Just like a scope I first ordered for it. I ordered a cheap something called a Hammer's for $45 in a 3-9x because it was silver to match the barrel and receiver, and it came with the dovetail rings. Before it ever made it to the house, I knew there was no way I was going to use a cheap POS like that. I turned around and ordered a $180 Bushnell on clearance for $90 because it's their last years discontinued model. Then I found the same scope calibrated for a 17 cal, for $53 to my door. I ordered two of those, they come with one turret calibrated for the caliber, but still come with a standard turret and a blank turret, one for my 10/22 Take Down and one just in case I found a need for it. I'll find some one to give that first cheap thing to. So actually counting all the extra scopes I ended up with, I could add another $150 to it. I could have done it with out the $50 I spent on trigger parts, but before I start taking a chance on ruining parts, especially in a new rifle, I like to have a replacement part in hand. Ended up, I now have $50 worth of spare parts for it.

Couple of weeks ago, I decided it was time to retire my old Remington 552. A few hundred thousand rounds threw it has just about gotten all the goody out of it. I was thinking I would try a Marlin 60, they're cheap ($160 or so), have a reputation for being accurate and hold up reasonable well. Started calling around looking for one, no new ones to be had. I thought then, may as well get Marlin 60SB with the stainless steel barrel so I could keep it behind the seat of my truck and not have to worry too much about the rust. Again, not a new one to be had. I called a couple of pawn shops and one had a used one, for $200, the cost of a new one, I told him what he could do with that one. Finally found a model 60SS, Stainless steel with a laminated stock, $250, I bought that one, so now my $160 rifle has gone to $265 with taxes. After getting a bore brush out of the barrel left in by the factory, cleaning it and checking it out, I take it to shoot it. You dang near needed a pair of pliers to squeeze (let me rephrase that) PULL like H*** on the trigger. So, $50 worth of parts and a day of taking it apart a dozen times as I make modifications, I finally get it to a nice and smooth 2.2 pounds. Was going for 2.5 but that last little bit from 2.9 took it to 2.2. Now my $160 rifle is a $315 rifle. The semi-buckhorn rear sight on the thing totally sucks, my eyes are getting old so I decide to put a small scope. Put a 1-4x24 that I had on with an old set of dovetail rings I had. When shooting it, I keep have to adjust elevation of windage, but I would check my marks on the scope and they were good. It took about a 100 rounds for dummy me to check the dovetail rings, they had slid at least 1/2" and not matter how much I tried to tighten them, the kept sliding. I gave up and ordered and picatinny rail adapter for it for $29 with shipping, and pick up locally a set of rings for it, another $20. Now my $160 is up to $354. Installing the picatinny rail, it didn't fit, way too wide, so have to send that one back, and support from that company was useless so ordering one from another company for $39 with shipping and tax. Also decided I didn't like the scope I had so I order a new 2.5-10x36 on clearance for $90. So now my $160 is up to about $450. During all this, when shooting it, it shot like crap. I noticed the stock was not fitting properly against the barrel and pressing it to one side. I had to sand that out to get the barrel free floated and then add me a pressure point about two inches back from the end. I tried it free floated and that was bad also. Now standing up and shooting off the tool box on my truck with a bipod, it shot those cheap Remington Thunderbolts I bought for $14 per 500 box into a one inch circle at 50 yards, Two 14 round magazines full and only three bullets about 1/8" outside that quarter size black dot. I called that good enough. So, now with almost two weeks of work and $450 into my $160 I was going to spend to retire my Remington, I'm almost there, if that new rail adapter works when it gets here.

That's why I loved striper fishing. They come out of the deep into the shallow creeks when the water gets cold enough. They can't spawn, but they still go through the process. Usually about January is when they start getting into the backwaters and the colder and more miserable the weather, the better the fishing. So, the only other boats you see are going to be doing the same thing you are. Not wake boarders, jet ski's or those just out for a cruise. It's just you and a few others looking for the sea gulls.

Depends on the year, and the luck of the draw. They all went through their development pains in the early years of the DFI motors. For the first few years Opti-Max's had the nick name Opti-Pop's. I would definitely look for a 90 on one, 60's left a whole bunch to be desired, and 75's were not a whole lot better.

With the stock 225 on it, it does ok. I've pretty much decided I'm gonna sell it, probably list it next spring unless something comes up sooner. I've had it in the water four times in the past two years. Since my granddaughter has married and moved on with her life, and my dad died several years ago, just haven't had the desire to go by myself. Those four times it has in the water was when my granddaughter was wanting to go. I haven't told her I'm going to sell it, and probably won't. She will pitch a fit. She was almost raised in that boat and has a ton of fond memories for her fishing with her papa and gramps (she calls me papa and my dad she called gramps). When my dad was living, he loved to fish so I made a special effort to go every other weekend to take him, and naturally since my granddaughter lived with us, she was also in the boat anytime it was in the water. It's a bit of a pain getting it setup to run in the tank every couple of months and buying batteries that might get use twice. I don't let my motor sit without being run regularly. That prevents all kinds of carb and fuel problems, that's lawn mowers, chain saws, weed eaters, log splitter, and several outboards.

Water activities seem to increase more each year in GA, but hunting, that's definitely on the decline because of the lack of places to hunt. The only public access to land is on the states WMA's and those are highly regulated as to the number of people they allow each year. Very few land owners will allow you access to their property because of the total lack of respect so many have for someone else's property when they do let them on it, or have already leased it out. So, about the only access you have it to join a lease, if you can find one with an opening, and then it's very expensive. So much so, the average hourly worker can't really afford it, paying the lease fees is only a part of the total cost. GA has increased their bags limits on deer to large numbers because of the lack of hunters to help control the population. I think GA has about 35,000 vehicle accidents a year involving deer. Then you have the lack of game. Yea, there are plenty of deer, and depends on what kind of growing season the turkey had the year before as to how their numbers are. Not everyone want do hunt deer/turkey and the smaller game like birds, rabbit's, squirrels (unless you live in a neighborhood with lots of tree's). Those are the things that were always fun as a kid to grab a 22 or 410 and just go walking and looking for. Large, corporate farms have wiped out most of the habitat. Farmers used to plant smaller fields they could manage, that left plenty of wind rows, now they plant thousand acre fields, nothing but bare land then. That or they have quite maintaining the land it let it grow up into scrub land, or planted trees on it. There are also plenty of wild hogs and coyote, but not places that you can hunt them.

To bad you are not closer to GA, I could offer you a 20' Javelin Dual console (Renegade 20DC) at a good price.

On the subject of new glass. If you happen to be looking for a new Rim Fire scope, there is a killer of a deal on the Bushnell. I think they discontinued some and you can get their 3.5-10x36 A17 with Multi-X reticle #613510A for $53 from a seller on ebay. Now, if you look at the same scope in the A22 with their 22 drop zone reticle (for 22 long rifle) they are still going for $90, which is still a good deal. I bought one, and then I came across this A17 (calibrated for 17cal). Couldn't pass that up so I bought two of those. The thing is, when you get the Multi-X reticle, the only difference between the A17 and A22 is one markings on one of the three turrets that they come with. Something you will probably never use anyway. They both still come with the standard turret and a blank you can put you own calibration marks one. Now, these are not your little tinker toy scopes, they have a little size to them and a little weight so if you are wanting some little bitty something, you don't want one of these.

This was back in the mid 60's, we had not had a legal season very long. I think the state has limited it to shotgun only now. I guess to protect the birds from idiots like that. They both brought a 3" Mag, 12ga with #6 shot the first day like I told them, but also brought their 222's and insisted on using the rifles. I used a 22mag for the fall birds because it was a lot quitter than a shotgun and since I was not legal, I wanted keep it low keyed. I never lost a bird with it, but I guess there was a little difference in the person pulling the trigger.

DO NOT do a deck in black if you plan to fish during the summer. It will be a virtual frying pan, and you will be the one getting cooked.