Way2slow

Improper trailer setup can cause all kinds of hull problems, and yours is definitely not setup properly. It should not be resting on the rollers once properly on the trailer. The roller will cause concaves/hooks in the hull. Not properly supported on the bunks can cause the hull to convex, basically put a rocker in it.

A little gee wiz about pistols. Back in the old cowboy gunfight is the streets days. The average distance they were apart was about 15 feet, and it was not uncommon for them to empty their guns and neither person gets hit. Laser sights help but if you are walking down the hall to check out a noise, look around and you are face to face with someone that's not supposed to be there, do you really think you are going to take the time to make sure that little red/green dot is pointed where it needs to be. Most likely, you are going to just start pumping lead as fast as you can and hope one finds it's mark. Since the pistol is only held with one hand, and the barrel is only a few inches from that hand, you could have it at a 45 degree angle an not even realize it. Shot gun being a two handed weapon, the forward hand is an automatic sight, it's going to shoot what ever direction that hands is from the one on the trigger. You might not have time to raise the gun, but you can still make a girl out of a boy real quick.

Model 870 Remington riot gun (magazine tube is as long as the barrel, and hold eight rounds, with the shortest barrel legal in your home, and short stock. DO NOT USE BUCKSHOT for home defense, #6 or #4 are the max. You are wanting to take down the unwanted guest, not everyone in the house. Buckshot can travel through every wall in the house. At close range, #6 or #4 are going to make mince meat out of anyone they come in contact with but a lot more easily stopped by walls so there is much less chance of seriously injuring someone in an adjacent room. Pistols seem cool but unless you are putting hundreds of rounds through one practicing, they are almost useless to the average individual in a panic situation. Most people put more bullets in the floors and ceilings than in an intruder. Plus, there is nothing in the world that's going to get someone's attention like the sound of a slide action shotgun.

A little more info, motor, boat etc. maybe a picture. I seriously doubt it's a mixture adjustment, don't know of any modern motor that would have that. My guess would be the controls for an old Lowrance in consoled flasher, but without some info, it could be most anything.

I've never seen a Teleflex, which it probably is, that didn't have the part number on it. I have seen a number of them you would swear they didn't but once you got them out in the light where you can examine it close, they are small letters and numbers, and they can be as far over that they are in the curve going back. A word of caution, when you pull it out, pull a rope with it so you have something to pull the new one in. Also, be careful, the they tend to have wiring and crap wrapped around them and some tie wraps holding them, so getting one out can be a challenge. If you get P***d and start yanking, you will regret it.

If it's a rack and pinion, look at your cable where it bolts onto the helm under the console, about 10" to 18" from the end of the cable housing (away from helm) you will see the part number. Probably a Teleflex cable and if it's rack and pinion style it will probably start with SST and the last two digits are the length. For that size boat probably 11' or 12'. You may have to actually pull it out to find the number. If it's not in white, they can be hard to see when trying to crawl around under the console looking for

It's a beefed up version of the old Maximizer you could buy before the PWM motors became popular, it's just they are only rated for about 30 amps, so motor sizes out grew them and Minn kota never made a larger one. As for being worth it, if you can keep it dry and from getting short out, should work great. When just easing around with the TM they can quadruple run time on a TM, but the higher you go, the less effective they are. At max thrust, they make no difference in run time. https://www.ebay.com/p/Minn-Kota-Maximizer-Electronic-Power-Control/1224647897?iid=113799998987&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=113799998987&targetid=541453988052&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9011203&poi=&campaignid=6470549460&mkgroupid=81274343007&rlsatarget=pla-541453988052&abcId=1139336&merchantid=113780940&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxuq4xtTa5AIVEdbACh13ugBLEAQYASABEgJjAfD_BwE There is a potential problem I see with the one shown. They are using individual heat sinks on the FETs so inclosing it to make it water proof will most likely make it overheat. If the FETs were on a solid heatsink, it could be enclosed into a small package. Have you looked at this one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-55V-60A-5000W-Reversible-DC-Motor-Speed-Controller-PWM-Control-Soft-Start-US/202576542955?hash=item2f2a80bceb:g:HrkAAOSwydZcTBLF

I guess my problem is I know too much about cars. I wouldn't dream of trying to use most of the vehicles in this thread to tow much of anything with, especially if it was for more than a few miles. I'll bet there not a one of them with a transmission temp gauge, which would be a critical item needed to have in most any vehicle used to tow with, unless you plan to be best friends with a local transmission shop down the road. That's just to get it moving down the road, not even going into the issues of stopping it in a panic situation.

I like the comfort of just being able to set the throttle and cruise, so I like hand controls. They are great for just a relaxing cruise at 45mph or so in calmer water. With that said though, I have spent my whole life owning go fast boats. From the late 60's when I had an Allison with twin 135BHP Merc racing engines on it that ran in the low 80's to now with a 20' Javelin that runs in the 80's with my hot rod motor on it, and I think I can safely say, I would probably have been dead or seriously injured several times if I did not have a hot foot. Unless you are built like an octopus and have three arms, there is just no way you can have the control needed to drive a boat that is up on it's pad and just barely skimming along the surface of the water. You are either going to be driving one handed, (that's a scary thought) or you are going to be moving one hand back and forth to the throttle and you had better have some hellasush reflexes. Things can go south in a heartbeat, when you are moving along at 80mph, and if that boat is set up properly it will probably run that. Also, with you even asking the question, tells me you don't have the experience that would be required to even try to drive it without a hot foot, SO, get the hot foot.

OK, if there is that much extra room inside the sheath for those ends to go through, probably won't push through. If you have compressed air, a trick I use for situations like that, is to blow a string through the sheath. Just put the string in the end you want the cable to come out on, make sure nothing is holding it and using blow gun start blowing through the sheath. That should suck the string through it in a heartbeat. Then you can use the string to pull the cable through. Sometimes if they get stubborn and you have to make knot like a big ball to help take up room in the sheath, but normally, the will just suck it right on through.

A battery does not put out 13.4 volts unless there is a charging voltage going to it. It may show that if it has been disconnected from a charger very recently, but that is only a surface charge and goes away if allowed to rest for 24 hour. Typical voltage for a fully charged battery is 12.6 to 12.8VDC, depending on the make and type. Cranking batteries typically have 12.6, deep cycle and dual purpose typically have 12.8. Also a little gee wiz info, for each tenth of a volt it drops below that, that's approximately a 10% discharge per tenth. And since you should never discharge a battery more than 80%, a battery at 12.0 VDC is considered a discharged battery. There is one fuse on the motor. It's usually an inline fuse in a red rubber housing. If you look on the starter solenoid where the large red battery cable is connected, there should be a smaller red wire connected also. That smaller red wire goes to that inline fuse holder and there will be a red/yellow wire coming out of the fuse holder going the main plug on the front of the motor. This supplies power to everything connected to the remote control so if there is power everything else, it's not very likely that fuse is going to be bad. There are no fuses in any boat with an outboard motor I've ever seen that had the start wire going though it so seriously doubt looking for a blown fuse or circuit breaker would be worth the effort. When you get your voltmeter, I can step you through a very simple process to isolate the problem. Won't take 10 minutes. It's also a very simple process to use the meter the check the relative condition of the battery. Granted, a Megtronics meter is best for sealed batteries but your meter will do. You will find having a multimeter and learning how to use it will be worth it's weight in gold. For the house, vehicles and anything else that depends on electricity or wires to work. I only have about a 1/2 dozen, but I also have a degree in electronics, and a person that can fix most anything man made, so I tend to use them a lot. If you want to, send me a PM and I will send you my cell phone number so when you get ready to start trouble shooting, I can walk you through and explain things as you go. All that's required for that is you being able to understand my southern accent. Back in the 80's, I had a girl in New Jersey once ask me what planet I was from. 25 years of the military got rid of some so it shouldn't be a real problem.

Don't worry, I have an older bother that's a chess master, but wouldn't know which end of a screwdriver to use if you handed him one. If you have a Harbor freight close, they have one for $5. It might work well enough for a couple of uses, sometimes they even have them as one of their give away items, so you can imagine the quality you will be getting. The test leads are probably no more that a foot long also. However, it is a little cheaper than my $450 Fluke. This is what it looks like. https://www.ebay.com/p/Fits-OMC-Johnson-Starter-Relay-Solenoid-40-40hp-1969-2005/2078981102?iid=270771467927&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=270771467927&targetid=800915229577&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9011203&poi=&campaignid=1497794122&mkgroupid=56281259685&rlsatarget=pla-800915229577&abcId=1139466&merchantid=6324134&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3aPL3uTJ5AIVBZJbCh2Nwgs0EAQYAyABEgLoiPD_BwE and will be somewhere around the top of the engine. Look for the large red 3/8" battery cable coming around the side of the motor and bolting onto the solenoid. The other large terminal will have a cable going to the starter. The solenoid is nothing but an electric switch made to handle a lot of current, so when you go to start the motor with the key, that little wires closes the large contacts inside and connects the battery to the starter. The starter can pull over 100 amps on that motor, the little key switch wire might handle 5 amps. Before getting to wrapped around checking the solenoid, clean the battery terminals, and post with baking soda and wire brush first. Then do the deal with the shift lever. It's not uncommon for that microswitch inside the control to go bad, or just not close sometimes. I'm very much inclined for that to be the problem if it's not a corroded battery connection. If it does prove to be bad, the switch is only a few bucks, for a shop to replace it is probably $100. That control head is not a big deal to work on, "BUT" study a parts diagram first if you try to go into it. You can get into a great big "O-S**T!!!" if you are not very carful and parts start falling out on you. There are a couple of other voltage checks you will want to make once the battery is clean, before getting into trouble shooting. After cleaning the battery, check the voltage across the battery post. Then with the meter connected to the to cables, try cranking the motor and make sure the voltage doesn't drop below 11 volts. Also, you don't need to know how to work on boats/motors/trailers. You only need to know how to do that when you don't have deep pockets, or don't want to wait weeks for a shop to repair them. My pockets have always been turned inside out and I'm not a very patient person.

Never replaced one of the cables. I would hope they cut them with a torch of something that left the strands welded together. If the strands are not going everywhere, you can probably just push them through. Unless there is huge amounts of extra hole opening or a lot of friction, cable will act like solid wire when pushing it through. If it has loose strands, don't have a clue how they would expect you to get it through there. I doubt you would be able to get and eye bent into the end of a wire to go through.

First, don't waste your time or money with kill switch or spark plugs, NIETHER of those will keep it from cranking over. After cleaning the battery terminals and post Since it's not cranking over. the first assumption would be the neutral safety switch in the remote control. Try holding the key in the start position and work the shifter back and forth a couple of times and kinda shake the shifter in the neutral position. Next, do you have and know how to use a voltmeter. You need to take a couple of voltage readings on the two small terminals on the starter solenoid. One of those is the wire from the key switch should be a Yellow/Red (Y/R) wire, the other is Black and the ground (battery negative) side. Unless you can clip the test lead onto the terminal and have to meter so you can see it, you will need two people. With the meter on Y/R of the small terminals and the other test lead to ground, try to crank it with the key. If you get 12 volts, that say the switch and wiring is good. Now move the meter to the other small terminal with the black wire and try it again, if you get 12 volts, again, that says the switch and wiring is good but you have a bad ground wire on the solenoid. Now to make since of what I just told you. If the key switch, neutral safety switch, and wiring are doing what they are supposed to be doing, you should be getting 12V on one of those small terminals with the R/Y wire and not on the other with the black. If that is the case, then the solenoid is bad. If you are not getting 12V on either terminal, that mean the key switch, neutral safety switch or wiring has a problem. If you are getting 12V on both of the small terminals, that means something has the ground wire open and will require more trouble shooting between that terminal and the negative battery terminal. The small terminal that has the Yellow/Red wire on it is the wire from the key switch that should have the 12V. You can actually turn the key switch on, and use a small screwdriver and short the R/Y terminal to the large terminal on the solenoid with the red battery cable on it, and start the motor.

Does this help any? https://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/8457.cfm

Two things, the first is it's almost impossible to alcohol free gas every time, sometimes these independents will sell it and not say it. Second, and foremost, SOOOO much of our products are inferior Chinese junk that's it's getting hard to buy a quality item. Even when you buy what was once a top quality, name brand, you soon learn they have started outsources their stuff from China. Just the other day I was going over my 1999, 225 and noticed a couple of hoses I replaced three of four years ago where already hard and brittle, yet most of the hoses are the original hoses from day of manufacture, and they are still soft and flexible. They all have the same gas going through them.

I do the initial time in my tank (120 gallon live stock watering tank). That initial idle time is fairly critical. It gives the rings time to wear the those rough edged of the ports that might not have gotten perfectly rounded and smooth and for the pistons to rub into their new home. The last thing you want is for a ring to catch, or a piston develop a hot spot from rubbing. They can go metal on metal and ruin your day.

My Dual console Javelin has three holes in the passenger side console for the passenger to stick the butt of their rods to store if they want, which my dad often did. That is until one day when he did it, the release on his Curado got pressed. The Carolina rigged worm with 3/4oz weight (which happened to be tied onto 50lb braid) managed to get off the back of the boat while I was cruising at 50mph. There was a sudden noise and he managed to look just in time to see his rod and reel go flying out the back of the boat in about 40 feet of water. I quickly dropped a marker where the rod went in the water. I made a grapple with a 1" pipe nipple and heavy steel wire when we got home and the next day we were lucky enough to catch the line and retrieve it. It had a full spool and being braid stretched out across the bottom, I figured we had a pretty good chance of catching it and getting it back.

OK, I tried a different browser, FireFox and everything works normal. I guess my google ain't doing something right

It has gotten when I go into someones topic, It's several pages wide and have to scroll to the right a lot to read them. It's gotten bad enough on some that if they do that, I just exit out. For instance the topic " I cast a very, very unusual lure " When I go into it, it goes across for several pages and I'm not going to try to read that.

If your not planning on running an outboard motor on it, the crack is not a major problem, even if it has a rotted transom. It's more than easy enough to repair and add if needed, add some reinforcement to hold even several electric TM's. Even if you have never done fiberglass, there's enough how too's on the net, and something like that would be a prefect project to learn on. Just understand, you are starting off on the heavy side using a glass boat for and electric only.

I've only registered boats in TX, GA, and VA. Each is unique in what's required. I have registered boats without the original title's in all three, but it has to be one hellava good deal to make it worth the effort. Tx was the easiest but still no fun there. GA, and VA required having a title search done on the boats VIN number. If it was ever registered it would come back with the last person it was registered to. Then you have to try and contact that person. They could come back and say the boat was stolen and they can get it back. If you do and they are willing to help, things are pretty easy from there. They just get a duplicate title and sign it over to you. If you can't locate them or they are one of "those" types of people, things get a lot tougher and the boat may never be fully yours. If the last title holder comes up and says that's his boat, you just lost it. If it doesn't have a VIN or if it was never registered, things can be a little easier, then it can be as simple as a couple of sworn affidavits. As mentioned, most state's game and fish division control boat titles. Who ever it is, you need to pay a person to person visit to them and see what you options are. The reason for person to person, sometimes they will tell you things you can do that's not really clear or listed in the printed material, and you get a better understanding of what they want/need. That's why I say it has to be one truly fantastic deal to be worth the effort, because, you may end up not being able to get one period.

Yep, so true. That's why I say "believe half of what you see, and nothing of what you hear"

I'm not patient enough for that, after about the fifth cast to an area or spot, I'm looking for another target or spot. If I've fanned the whole area, I'm moving on. Even if bank fishing a small pond, once I've circled it, I quit and wait a while.

Dirt dobber's love ready made holes and once dry their next can be like concrete. A lot of times compressed air will not blow them free. Try running a piece of wire like a metal coat hanger up the hole to break it loose. Sometimes the hole may be an insert in the lower cover with a hose going to it. If so, you can probably just take it loose and clean it out, because sometimes they go up inside the hole and make their nest deeper in.