Way2slow

the reason the motor changes the sound it makes, the prop is sucking air, ie cavitating. This is very easy to do if the boat is running bow heavy from poor weight distribution. Things to look or listen for when trimming a motor out. The prop wash is noticeably higher then the top of the motor. The tach increases in RPM and the boat does not gain speed proportionally. The motor changes pitch, normally changes to a more hollow sound. Trim back down until it goes back to it's normal sound. In extreme cases, you will actually feel the steering wheels feedback change and sometime even start torqueing to the left. I have very little experience with aluminum boats above 14' - 15' so I don't know how they respond when trimming. A glass boat with a pad, when the weight is properly distributed on a good setup, you will feel the bow actually pop up and if there is a little chop, the boat will feel like it's just skipping along on the rear portion of the pad/hull. I have a feeling, from where you say your batteries are mounted, the motor/prop combination can't develop enough lift to get the bow up. If it is popping the bow up and you are still trimming up from there, again, you are over trimming. If it has a front live well and you are filling it, that just adds to the problem. Another less common problem is the prop does not match the setup. I have used anti-cav plates to remedy this problem, the SE Sport is my preferred one for that. They also make a big difference in getting on plane. Great tools, just dorky looking a all heck.

sorry read it wrong, deleted my response

If I had to guess, it sounds like a cavitation problem. Look at your prop, the section of blade the hub and motor, and see if there's a spot about the size of a half dollar that looks like it has been sanded. That's a sure sign of cavitation. The air pocket eats the prop there. Aluminum props show it very easy, SS props may just loose their shine and be dull looking in that area. A motor can't gain rpm and not speed without something slipping. Too much outward trim, engine too high or prop does not like the boat. Go to one of the online prop slip calculators and put your numbers in. On average, you should be see get 8 to 11% and a bass boat setup properly. Something like and STV may get down around 5%, and they definitely can't make more speed than the pitch prop you are running. A 22" prop on that motor at 6,000 rpm would probably be running 55mph.

Shoot, just put you a pedestal seat right in the middle, then the boat can swivel 360 degrees and you can keep fishing in the same direction.

Oh! stuff to do is not a problem. I tell everyone I had to retire because that 40+ hours a week on the job kept me from having the time to do all the other stuff I need to do. I'm a man of many talents and interest so I've always got several projects going. Then my wife always has here honey do list, and hers are not little simple task. Just this month for her, I've built a 16'x 14' Pergola, poured a slab of concrete and built a nice enclosure at the patio to install a refrigerator, which naturally had to have the ice maker connected, so I had to run water a power to it. Dig up probably 300 lily bulbs for the front bed just to move them to the fence in the back, which meant making a new bed 30' x 6' (and that's clay back there). I keep trying to convince her us old farts at 72 should not be doing this stuff. This was while I wasn't making the three native American style flutes I've made this month, cleaning and rebuilding a cuckoo clock and a large Seth Thomas #2 Wall clock. Plus building from scratch an oak case and a complete pendulum wall clock for my granddaughters birthday. This was also during the time a was rebuilding the neighbors Stihl chain saw he melted a piston in and replacing the carburetor on his tiller that he hadn't started in five years. In between these projects, I pulled the head off a Kubota ZD28 mover and pressure check it, to find it was cracked and cleaned and rebuilt four injectors for my 93 Toyota pickup so I can replace the ones in it. Which now I've got to install in it, adjust the valves and do a complete turnup on it So, this is just a sample of what my being retired with nothing to do is like, and this was actually a fairly easy month.

Getting used to being retired is probably one of the hardest things I've ever done. I've always tried to preplan my weeks and days so I could get the most from each. When I first retired, I had a hard time getting used to not having that mental schedule of what I needed to do, and felt like I was doing something wrong when I was not out working on something. Even after eight years, I'm still not fully adjusted to being retired. I was so used to only having the weekends to do things I wanted to do, I still find myself thinking about the things I need to do this weekend, like going to town and getting stuff I need for a project I want to do. Can't get used to the fact that everyday is a weekend day now. I still catch myself feeling like there's something I should be doing instead of just taking it easy sometimes, or just doing something I want to do instead of something I need to do. Getting it in my head if I don't get something done today, there's is a tomorrow, hopefully! If there's not, it ain't gonna matter noway.

I guess they figured it being a display shell, that color and especially with that young lady standing next to it, would draw a lot of looks and attention.

Sorry, but I don't know enough about those black motors to help. To over heat a regulator like, I would be very suspicious of the cranking battery and also might want to look at the stator's charging coils. Also, make sure it is the regulator, Mercury was good about not even putting regulators on their smaller motors. Especially the older ones.

Just raise it to the height you want and drill the four mounting holes though the transom. Those hooks that go over the transom do not have to be resting on the transom. If you currently have holes from a previous motor, be sure fill/plug them very well so no water can seep by them. The four holes mentioned in a previous post are for setting the tilt angle. If you don't have the pin that goes in them, you need to make one. Tilted all the way in like that would not make for a very good setup. However, looking at the boat, you have a long way to go before you have to worry about any of it. The first thing I would do is stick a couple of large bolts with large washers on both sides though the existing holes and torque them down. If they pull the washers and fiberglass under them down into the transom, anything you do is going to be wasted effort because the transom is rotted and not safe to mount a motor on.

If the cold doesn't work. Most any photo editor will let you resize it. You can also reduce the resolution to a lower pixel count, something like 200 or less.

You have a strange boat there. As long as the boat is moving forward a few miles per hour, you don't need a plug in. Even if you have water in it, it should pull any water that's in the boat out. The forward motion creates a low pressure at the drain hole, it's called the Bernoulli Principle. Many times when camping and using a jon boat or boat that doesn't have a bilge pump, and it rains. Rather than bail water, I just get the boat moving forward, take the plug out and let it suck all the water out, then put the plug back in. The boat does not have to be on plane, a few miles per hour will create a suction on the drain hole. Back in the late 60's, we water skied a couple of hours with no drain plug. Me and a couple friends were going skiing, but when I got to the ramp, my drain plug was missing from the boat. It was a 45 minute round trip to town and we only had a couple of hours before sundown. I got everything ready, cranked and warmed the motor with it backed into and lake and still sitting on the trailer. From that point on we just made sure not to stop for more than a couple of minutes. What water did get in then, was pulled right back out.

OK, I should pay more attention to how spell check changes the words, like the time I posted I like to fish for strippers in the winter time.

Usually no more than $20 -$30. I am h**l on pair of shoes, so I usually wait until the BX (Base Exchange) has their New Balance on clearance and marked down to and additional 50 to 75% off the already red tag price. Then I buy several pair in my size (12-13). Some a so ugly my wife makes me change if she's going with me, but hey, beats destroying a pair of $150 shoes. If I run out of them before I catch them on clearance again, I buy what I can find on sale for $10 - $15 where ever.

Primary squirrel gun is a Remington 552, no optics and don't use the sights, strictly instinct. Been shooting that one since 1966. For a few years, back in the late 50's I was lucky enough to have lived next to a guy known as "Lucky" McDaniel and he took a liking to me and taught me how to instinct shoot. If you want to learn how to shoot, get you a Daisy Red Rider and find one of his books. Before that, it was my Winchester 62 gallery gun an uncle gave me for my 10th birthday. Also have a 10/22 Takedown for backpacking and a Henry Golden Boy because it's pretty (and it does shoot very good) By the way, not just any BB gun will work. The Daisy Red Rider's velocity is slow enough you can see the BB's in flight, a critical part to learning mussel memory for instinct shooting.

All batteries self discharge, cheaper batteries more so others. A few days should not be enough to notice. 30 days, you might want to top it off. If it's not stored on a maintainer, it should be topped off every six to eight weeks. The cooler the area it's stored in helps minimize the self discharge. Sitting on a cool concrete floor or a cool shaded spot is better than sitting in the boat.

I have to go every six months and have been for at least 20 years. I've had at least a half dozen Basal cell carcinoma's cut off, and more of those precancerous things frozen off than I could every count. The tops of my ears get frozen every couple of years. I've had one Melanoma cut off my back. That one was only a couple of millimeters, since they found it very early during one of my semiannual screenings. Good thing, that one left me about a four inch long scar. Would hate to see what size scar I would end up with a larger one. Since having the Melanoma, I have to get striped down, full body searches. I'm talking every square inch once a year. The bad part is, for the past 30 to 40 years, I've tried to take great care to protect my skin, but they claim the original damage was done when I was a kid and sun burned myself several times to the point I had blisters.

Honest opinion, you could not give it to me. That stuff looks like it would be very slick and from having laid it on floors, I know it's very heavy. Remember, you use boats on water and that water gets on the floor a lot of times, Nothing like stepping on a slick deck and go sliding. Totally ruins the value of the boat. It all needs to come out and proper deck and floor installed. Most likely the reason that was used, the original floor and probably the deck were rotted out and that was use to cover and hide that. Which means the stringers were probably rotted and maybe the transom. All that needs to be checked because if so, the boat is total JUNK. Take if for a test drive with two people and the live well full. It will probably feel more like a barge than a boat, total lead sled. Boats are hard to dispose of, most landfills won't take them, so even if he paid you a couple hundred dollars to haul it off, you would be coming out on the short end of the stick. I cut them up and small pieces with a chainsaw and throw the pieces in the counties trash dumpster. Rough job but that's the only way I've found to dispose of junk like that. Wow, I just did a search on Craigslist, and you really don't have much to choose from a lot of way over priced, or way under powered and over priced. This was the only boat I saw that even looked like a candidate and it's a pointed bow, which I don't care for. I would bet if you showed up with money in hand, this one could be bought for $3,000 and maybe a couple hundred less, depending on your negotiating skills. https://kansascity.craigslist.org/boa/d/kansas-city-1990-bass-tracker-16ft-40hp/6914729703.html

If it has good compression and runs good, and not a saltwater motor, from an individual, probably in the $2500 to $2800 range. From a dealer probably in the $4,000 to $4,500 range, especially if he provides any kind of a guarantee with it. Outboard motor prices are also very subjective to location. I can find them a whole lot cheaper around the southeast than people in the northeast seem to. Also, because of the limitations AZ has placed on areas 2 strokes are allowed, (if they still have that) 2 strokes usually go fairly cheap.

My first introduction to a Korean built car was in 1992. My wife's sister bought a used, low mileage 1990, Pontiac LeMans. Right after buying it, she was having problems, and asked me to look at it. I found out it was built in Korea by Daewoo. The reason it was low mileage, you couldn't keep it going long enough to put many miles on it, and don't dare take a long trip in it. She kept that thing for two years and I think I spent a year and half of that working on it. Then when I retired from the Air Force, the best paying job I could find was working for a Clark forklift dealer as a road service tech, who also had the Daewoo franchise for Fork lifts, skid steers and other equipment items. At least Daewoo was using GM 4cyl engines in their mid size lift trucks, but went from a Perkins to a Kia Diesel in their skid steers. Total nightmare. They should have put zippers on those engines, because you were either replacing a cracked head or broken piston almost constantly. Then Clark moved most of their manufacturing overseas, and went from a very reliable Mitsubishi to a Hyundai engine in the smaller and mid size lifts. Another total nightmare. After a couple of years of that fun, I decided it was time to retire. The pay was the same, and they definitely fit the meaning of job security, but having represent that junk to the customer as good equipment, I was scared the man upstairs was going to get me for how bad I had to lie.

A lot and too much! Because of the crazy prices new motors are going for, used motors have also increased tremendously. A lot depends on the area and the motors usage. Just stay away from saltwater motors. People are trying to jack the prices up on those also, and they are not worth it. Since Mariner is the salt water version of Mercury, it's a good chance that's what you will find.

Unless it's a warrantee or recall issue, no dealer or repair shop ever sees one of my vehicles. It would give me cold chills to think about letting someone else work on anything of mine. Granted, I have the skills and don't mind buying the specialized tools and equipment needed to trouble shot. At todays shop rates, a $2,000 scanner can pay for itself in one repair. I know I am the exception and most of the population has to depend on those rip off artist for service/repairs, and most all are rip off artist. I got fired from an industrial equipment dealership because I refused to screw over my customers by greatly over charging them for service/repairs. My neighbor showed me a bill a local chevy dealer charger him to replace the crank sensor on his 2003 van, $580. Four hours of it was to reprogram the ECM for the new sensor, a totally bogus charge. The ECM relearns itself within the first hour of driving. The rest was their stupid price for the part and 1.5 hours to install it, a 15 minute job. My sons 2008 2500HD diesel started going into the reduced power, limp home mode. Thinking it was covered under warranty, he took it to the dealer. They called him and said the repair estimate was $1,100. I went with him to talk to them for an explanation. The service guy starts this spill about all they were going to have to do, (the problem was with the accelerator) to trouble shot and repair it. He didn't realize I knew way more about it than he did, so my son picked up the truck, paid them their $85 diagnostic fee (this was several years ago). When they brought the truck out, I reached in behind the pedal, reseated the connector, we got in the truck and drove off under full power. He still has the truck and it has done that twice since. He does the connector and goes on about his business.

Don't know what KSI is. Not an aircraft or boat engineer. I do have a EE but don't really think that applies to anything here. I just figure the engineers and companies that build these things know what works and don't work, and I've never seen one assembled with anything other than welding or solid rivets. Back when I was young and dumb, I tried various redneck short cuts and almost every time they ended up leaking. With age came wisdom and decided maybe those people that build the things knew what worked best and started using solid rivets or TIG weld for repairs, patches etc. Rarely did I have a leak afterwards and the few I did have were easily fixed with a couple more taps on the rivet. So, as I been known to say many times before, it's your boat, you can repair it how you please, you can use zip ties and silicon for all I care.

I went by the battery warehouse today I've been dealing with for almost 20 years, to find a big note on the saying that on 31 May the closed the doors and moving it to their location near Atlanta. The guy that ran it and I had got to be pretty good friends over the years so I went around back, figuring they would be back there moving the stuff out, and they were. I talked to the my friend and he said they came in the last of the month and told him they were closing that location and offered him a pittance of a severance pay, a step down in pay and a job at the Atlanta location, or unemployment and said he had two days to decide. He had to take the Atlanta location is going to have to drive almost 200 miles round trip each day, through Atlanta traffic. Needless to say, most of his income will go toward cost of travel, but he says he's got too until he can find something else. That's what 20 years of loyal service means.

I'm not too sure about the GM piece of garbage. My wife bought a 86 Astro Van, put 290K on it and it only had one failure, the TPS went out at 210K My daughter is driving a 2003 Buick Century that was a former FBI car I bought at auction with 73K miles. It now has 413K, and other than normal maintenance the only parts that are not the OEM that came on the car is the right front hub assembly ($35) I had to replace about 30K back and the AC compressor ($180) I replaced last spring. Still runs great and still getting 32mpg. My 2001 4WD 2500HD has 261K and the only thing I've replaced on it is the AC compressor ($180) about three years ago. So, I don't mind having a GM junkyard.

I have a hard time seeing how a pop rivet can create and maintain the compression pressure installing a solid rivet can. I just see them as being probable leaks once the aluminum has vibrated and flexed the way it will be when running down the lake after a few months. To install solid rivets, it takes usually takes a minimum of three hands, especially if they are in a corner or area where you can't get a clean, flat lick with a hammer. One other thing you have to be aware of, if the repair is on the bottom of the boat and in the path of the sonar transducer, heads protruding from anything will create a turbulence that can totally screw up you sonar display.