Way2slow

Many times it's as others have said, it just the programing of the ECU. However, sometimes it's a difference in porting and intakes used. To check that, if you can come up with a factory parts breakdown, you can compare part numbers on the bock, intake and exhaust tuner. Those are the main things that affect the horse power. For instance, back in their day, OMC's 3.0 V6 was a 200hp with 1 3/8" carbs and a 225 with 1 7/16" carbs. The 250/225HO was the 225 with larger exhaust ports. Mercury and BRP only changed the ECU programming for the 200, 225 and 250, so Mercury may do the same thing on the one you are interested in, but can't for a fact that's all they did. One thing though, a lot of time you don't really notice a big difference in the motors on the hole shot, but there is a difference in top speed. The cubic inches is what mostly gets it up on plane, the HP makes it go faster.

A couple of suggestions, first do a compression check and see if you have even compression on all four cylinders, probably around 90psi. Next, when it's bogging, just hold WOT for about a minute, if it's still bogging, cut the switch off while still at full throttle. Watch out for the backwash a lot of smaller boats will have. Pull the cover off and pull all four spark plugs out and look at them. They should be dry and the same color. If one is wet, or a lot darker, you have firing problem on that cylinder, possibly a bad power pack, coil or wire. If they are all dry but one darker, that could be a dirty carburetor or fuel delivery problem. Problems like this sometimes requires professional diagnostics because there is a host of things that can cause it. A friend of mine bought a 225HO last year and it was doing similar stuff and said he had changed power packs and almost everything on it His 225 non HO motor ran faster a got out of the hole much better, so he had swapped almost all that motor over to the HO, with no help. I told him to swap the flywheels on them, that he might have a bad magnet in it, I had run into that problem before on those motors. He thought I was full of it but swapped them anyway, that fixed his problem. Now, not saying yours has a bad flywheel or magnets, I'm just saying you can spend a bunch of money just trying shotgun trouble shooting and just throwing parts at it. He had a good running spare motor he could swap from, start buying a swapping parts get very expensive. I will say, power pack problems on those V4 motors are not that uncommon.

Sorry, I haven't been on here for a few days. I can't give you an honest I know for a fact answer on a recoil start motor. I didn't know they even connected it up on those. However, it makes since they might do something since it can't sound alarm. It's very possible on that motor they may do something in the power pack to cut or kill performance. One sure fire way to find out. With the motor running (on a hose or in the lake) unplug the temp sensor end coming from the power pack and short it to the block and see if it has any affect. That's all it's going to do if it does run hot. Now, the big motors will go into a limp home mode when the motor will only run about 2000 rpm. They may do something like that, but the only way you would be able to test that is to see if the motor will make full power with the sensor grounded. ONLY try that at the lake and in gear, don't try that on a hose.

Sounds kinda like, "how many feet in a yard"? Depends on how many people are standing in it. The coast guard data plate has that information but most any boat other than the one person yaks and plastic boats will carry at least two reasonable size people.

The buzzer is usually mounted up near the control box, but may be under the console if you have one. They are usually a round and black about the diameter of a quarter and about and inch long. The temp sensor has no control over the motor, it just closes the contacts when it reaches the temp it's set for to activate the buzzer. Now, there is no guarantee someone installed it or hasn't taken it out. Unplug the temp sensor and ground the wire going to it, with the key switch on and see if you hear it. Just dawned on me, being a 25hp, you might be talking about a tiller motor, so the buzzer should be inside the cowling, if it has one. Well, now we are screwed. BRP sold off Evinrude and it is no longer in production. They apparently no longer have the online parts diagrams for all Johnson and Evinrude. I guess a company called AVS has them now and what they have available is about useless. I was going to look up your motor and see where they put the buzzer or if it had one, but didn't have any luck. Found them here if you want to go through and see if you can find it.https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1994&hp=25&model=E25RERC Just did a little searching myself and yours does not have a buzzer. The buzzer requires 12V to operate. Your motor is a recoil starter, not electric start so it does not have a 12V source to power the buzzer, therefore it does not have a buzzer. Now, if that concerns you, you can buy a 12V buzzer, mount it in the boat out of the way, add a little two prong plug/connector with one wire connected the block and one to the Temp Sensor with the other end connected to the negative and positive of your TM battery. Just pay attention to polarity and you can just plug and unplug it if/when you take the motor off. it's not going to consume any power unless the temp sensor closes and cause the buzzer to alarm. I would add a small fuse at the battery to protect against possible short.

If the boat is setup properly, it should not loose speed. The motor I have the SE300 on runs 82 with or without the hydrofoil. Motor is problem set too low. Like I said, I find this to be a very common problem with people trying to run a foil.

Use cut pile and not loop pile. My last two Stratos and my Javelin all had cut pile carpet. These were all used boats when I got them so don't know if that was OEM or not. I know the Javelin had just had the carpet replaced when I got it, but I've never had a boat with loop pile carpet.

Sorry, somewhere I thought I read you had a 75 on it. You say it has been struggling. Did it ever get on plane reasonably? If this is something that has just developed, you might have a performance problem with the engine. Four stokes are not the greatest at producing strong holes shots but you might want to look at dropping one pitch size in the prop unless it's already at max RPM at WOT. 100 rpm over is better than 300 rpm lower than max. You also have to consider the water is a lot warmer now and that affects hole shot.

Look at the SE Sport 300. I run one on my hotrod motor but I slightly trim the sides a little to keep it from looking quite so dorky. Huge help in hole shot and if setup properly there should be no difference in top end speed or handling. I looks and performs better than those whale tail looking things. Before installing one, make sure you have your engine height properly set, too many people have the engine too low. I would also have to question your current setup. Granted, that's a lot of boat for that small of a motor but does the motor turn near the manufactures max recommended rpm when planed out the trimmed up properly at WOT with your normal load? If not, then you might want to consider a prop change first. Also, if you are running an aluminum prop, that can add to the problem. A proper pitch SS prop will make a difference of aluminum.

25%, that's eight hours versus six hours under the same conditions. If you are running the big motor enough to boost the charge in the battery, no problem. If you are running the TM for long periods and only run the big motor for short distances, then it's a big difference.

Yep, and that's probably another $100+. Hope you got a great deal on the MW, I've always considered them and general purpose prop.

You have about the worst battery you could have for a bass boat cranking battery. Look at that reserve capacity (RC), 155 minutes. Interstate AGM, Deka AGM and a few other top brands, will have 200 minutes or more RC. All those big CCA/MCA numbers mean nothing for running your electronics when the motor is not running, it's the RC number that's doing that. If you want to get the most, ditch the AGM and get the baddest flooded cell battery with caps on it you can find. They will be up there around 225 RC. There is a trade off with the flooded cell battery though, the AGM typically have a much higher cycle count than the flooded cell and you will have to keep check on the electrolyte level in one with caps. Cycle count his how many times it can be discharged and charged before it goes bad.

I don't think I would have to worry about that. I'm not really harming the squirrel, and who's going to hear a BB gun more than a few feet. As for what I post, it's like the old joke about the guy bragging to a guy about the huge buck he just killed out of season. The guy he was bragging to said "mister you must not know me, I'm the new Game Warden for this area". The man responded "mister game warden, you much not know me, I'm the biggest liar in this area".

I'm surprised anyone would even think about trying. If you do, you WILL eventually end up puncturing it and sinking it. Even the heavy canvas reinforced floats made for that get holes sometimes.

Trying to discourage squirrels from coming into the back yard and raiding the bird feeders, I’ve tried several different things. Not wanting to kill them or injure them, I tried my slingshot first with 10mm clay pellets, my 3/8” steel pellets and 00 buckshot would kill at the 30 to 40 feet. I hunted them with it and have killed them at twice that distance with 00 buckshot. The clay are too light and curve too much to be accurate at that distance. So, I thought about the 40 year old Daisy BB gun I used to teach my son and granddaughter to instinct shoot with. The first thing I did when I bought it was to rip the rear sight off and saw the front one off so It’s strictly sight and muscle memory. It hasn’t been shot in 10 years but squirted a little oil in it and it pumped up just fine. Three pumps is all it takes to burn a squirrels butt. After a couple of weeks of getting the butts burned, now all I have to do is pump it once, as soon as they hear that one, they are off and over the fence and gone like a rocket. In instinct shooting, it’s all about visualization and muscle memory, so you are not really thinking about distance, your mind is doing what it takes to make the shot. Yesterday, we were sitting out there talking and there was a squirrel sitting high up on a pine limb in the neighbor’s yard. Just for kicks I figured I would try him. I pumped it five times and the first shot didn’t drop quite as much as I thought it would and went just over his back. The second shot nailed him and he dang near jumped out of the tree. Sitting out there this morning, I kept looking at that limb and thinking, that’s a long shot, especially for a BB gun. So, I got my rangefinder to check it and it showed it to be 43.9 yards. That’s a LONG shot with a BB gun, and it only took two shots. I guess at 73, I still have a little bit of that magic, and can still see the flight path of a BB that far.

I suspect Trojan, EastPenn, US Battery, and Possibly Johnson Control would have a little something to say about that. I've been retired for nine years and out of the loop on a lot of this stuff but I have serious doubts those first three are using Chinese components. I'm not saying they are not, but I would be a bit surprised if they are. Now understand, you said Deep Cycle, only a few companies make a true deep cycle trolling motor battery. Automotive style batteries, cranking batteries, and dual purpose are totally different animals than true deep cycle. If a battery has a CCA or MCA rating number on it, its' not a true deep cycle. Deep cycle batteries are not designed for cranking so the their ratings are going to be in Amp Hour based a time, or reserve minutes.

No need for that, I really don't mind trying to help when I can. Just my nature. Sometime I wish it wasn't, like for the past four days. A good friend of my wife and the lady we bought our house from twenty years ago has been going through some hard time. She's driving a 2006 Kia Sorento and took it to the shop. They quoted her $4,600 dollars to do all what they said needed to be done. I told my wife to tell her to bring by and let me look at it before some shop ripped her off. Got most of the parts in this morning from RockAuto and spent all day and probably all day tomorrow installing them. I had just spent the past three days tearing it down getting ready for the new parts. AC compressor, and kit plus condenser. New alternator, Timing belt kit with water pump and new timing covers to replace the ones falling apart on it. Valve cover and lower intake gaskets. Spark plugs and two universal joints. Front brake rotors and pads, and picked up locally the oil and filter to change the oil and a couple of gallons for trans fluid to service the transmission. I have spent $1,100 on parts but I'm doing a whole lot more than the shop quoted her for $4,600. So, according to that shops quote, she's getting about $6,000 worth of work for $1,100.

Welcome to the sight. I will try to help but first if you can pop the cover off and make a good look and see if you see anything obvious it would help. The next thing I would while the cover is off and to start pumping the primer bulb and see if any gas starts coming out anywhere and see if the primer bulb gets firm. What you may have had was gas being pushed out by the tank if it was full, but before trying to run it, you need to make sure there are no obvious leaks. If you can pump the primer bulb, it gets firm and you don't see any gas coming from anywhere, then you might want to try running it on the muffs or in a tank with the cover off and see if everything is still free of any gas leaks. Don't try to start it with the cover on it until you have done all this. If it does have a leak and the cover is on it to confine the fumes, you might make a nice grenade.

For the money involved and the headache not having proper documentation can cause, I would probably be checking with the officials responsible for registering it in the state you plan to register.

Just keep a small, long funnel in the battery/tank compartment. Use that to pour the oil in the filler neck before adding gas. Add enough gas to give you the 50:1 ratio for the amount of oil you added. The gas will wash the oil on down into the tank that's in the filler neck/hose and by the time you have driven a couple of miles, the mixture will be more than mixed enough. Seems like it's 16oz of oil to six gallons of gas, but you can buy a container with the ratios already marked on it so all you have to do is fill it to the mark indicated for 50:1 on it for how many gallons of gas you plan to add. Wally world used to sell them.

When you remove the cover, the pump is on the left side. A fairly large unit with a couple of lines and a four/five wire connector coming out of it. To disconnect, just unplug to connector to disable the alarm. Yes, the tank in the boat, Pour the oil out of it. Even if you keep using the oil injection system, it would be wise to empty the tank to make sure there is no water in it. You can put that same oil back in if you do use it. If not leave it out, or it will double oil the engine if you premix your gas. Yes, the purple wire had to be added by the installer of the replacement pump, so it's just a single wire purple wire running from the connector to the ecm.

The water pump impeller should be replaced. Sitting that long, and not know the age before that, it's probably developed a pretty healthy memory and will not flex out. If it still has the factory original variable oil injection (VRO) it would probably be smart to not use it and premix your gas/oil at 50:1 ratio. If it has been replaced, you will see an extra purple wire coming from it that looks like it was added after the fact. Somewhere around 98/99 they upgraded the pump design and added that fifth wire, those are much more reliable. They have gotten fairly stupid with the price of the new units to replace it now. To disconnect it, just unplug the wire connector you see going to it. That will keep it from giving you an alarm. Some people just fill the reservoir with SeaFoam and let it just pump after disconnecting. It still pumps after unplugging if it works and something is in the tank. It's just not wise to trust it to be reliable. Look at the bottom of the carbs and you will see a large brass headed screw, that's the main jet cover screw. Remove it and see if it's clean on the inside. If clean, the carbs might be OK. If coated with crud, they will probably need to be removed and cleaned. This is a fairly expensive endeavor, and not something you should tackle without having experience with those carbs, several hundred dollars. They are plastic bodies and bowls, they warp and distort and getting them not to leak requires a bit of knowing what you are doing. Even a lot of the so called outboard mechanics have problems with them and will say you need new ones. Fuel lines, check each one, if they are not hard, brittle or cracked, I would leave them alone. The OEM lines, even 30 years old can still be better than what you replace them with. A lot of this stuff you get now don't last but a couple of years. The gauges, if they are working, leave them. The two main problem childs are the water pressure, they freeze in the winter and damages them it water is in the lines, and the Tach, the hand tends to disconnect and quit working. For gear lube, I use Valvoline Synthetic in all mine. Drain it, make sure it comes out black and no water. Refill it by pumping it into the bottom plug until it comes out the top plug. Then put the top plug in before removing the ling from the bottom to help limit the fluid loss as you try to get the bottom plug back in. Try to get all the fuel you can out of the tank and purge the fuel lines with the main jet plugs removed from the carbs to make sure all the old fuel and crud is out.

For me, it's not practical. The two lakes I mostly fish, one has a very large sign saying "NO FIREARMS ALLOWED BEYOUND THIS POINT" about a 1/2 mile before you get to the ramp. The other lake, half the lake and areas we fish are in Mexico, and while it would be comforting to have, it would not go over very well if you happen to be checked by Mexican officials.

For the ultimate electric power boat, the technology hasn't made it to the consumer market for boats yet. It would use the new lithium or other light weight, high efficiency batteries and the high powered, high torque super efficient motors they are developing for electric powered vehicles. Until it does, it's just a mater of picking out something that meets your needs and fits your budget.

Every time I look in the Browse, the heading for where this toping is posted says "Gun Forum". Some of us know a little more about things than just fishing and this site is setup to let us discuss other things than just "fishing". If you look, you will see a Hunting Forum and all kinds of forums for the discussion of topics that have nothing to do with fishing.