Way2slow

I guess I missed something saying it was a jet and not an outboard. What I first posted has nothing to do with being a jet boat. You was told right, if it's on the intake side of the screw, then if it's not smooth and flat, it can cause turbulence that can cause cavitation. Anyone doing any repair work needs to understand how a jet boat works and it's critical it be fairly smooth and flat in front of the intake and on each side. You also might want to check the screw and make sure it's not worn too much. Too much clearance between the screw and the housing can cause problems. To do a proper repair will require someone with the knowledge of what's required. Being in that seam, it will be easy to cause the rivets to loosen and leak. Bending and working aluminum can cause it to work harden, become brittle and crack over time. If a home repair is tried, it would probably be best to use a sheet of 16-18ga aluminum and reskin around the intake and up toward the front a couple of feet, being sure it's a smooth transition from old to new with something like Marine-Tex. Marine-Tex is made for below the water line and to hold, bondo is not.http://marinetex.com/products/marine-tex-products/marine-tex-epoxy-putty/

Can't tell squat about the pics, but I have to ask, why do you think the dent was the cause of the cavitation it it was filled in and leveled off? There are tons of other things that are much more subject to cause that. Usually about the only problem shotty work on the bottom is create a turbulence that screw up you depth finder on small boats My first thought is, did you check the height of the anti-cavitation plate on the motor an see if it's about even with the bottom of the boat and not up too high. You may have gotten stuck with a boat that has a short shaft motor on the long transom.

JohnBT From the pics, you did a nice job, there is one thing that might come back to bite you after long term use. Where you use door hinges, I would have use a heavy piano hinge that spreads the stress out over the whole length when you stand on it. I do see you put bracing under the lid where the hinges are so that might help make it live a long happy life. Again, though, very nice job you did there. Of course I was wondering, how to you drive it, with your feet? Do you have some kind of extension to go on the tiller or do have to take the pedestal seat down or reach around it every time you move. Just pulling your chain. If it was me, I would add a second pedestal base offset for which ever hand I used to keep from having to stay corkscrewed around to steer it, unless you just throw it out of the way and sit on the deck. My old backbone don't like that. I put the sliding seat rails in my jons so I can move them offset to steer.

The the only aluminum boat (not counting my canoe) other than just basic flat jons and most unstable boat I've ever owned was a 1986 model year Fisher 15' with a front deck and pedestal seat on front and 40hp Johnson for $1,200. Thought the motor was locked up but ended up being the lower unit and fixed that for just a few bucks. Bought it cheap and sold it cheaper just about as quick. Fished out of it one time and sold it. If you were sitting in the front pedestal seat, there was no way you were going to sit up straight. You were going to be leaning to one side or the other and to lean over the side to lip a fish, took some nerve. Sold it for $900 after it sat in my yard a few months just to get rid of it. The guy that bought it had also done some stuff for me was the reason I let him have it so cheap.

What ever you do, it's not plug and play, if you are not somewhat mechanical, you may be over your head. There's a good possibility you will have to unbolt the engine from the transom and swing it away some to trouble shoot/repair it. Then getting the cable pulled and new one in. Just getting the steering wheel of the helm can be a challenge on some. Depending on how the cable exits the rear of the boat, there may not be enough room to pull it out of the motor without removing the motor. If it comes straight out the back, you might get it out, if it comes out of the splash well toward the motor, you usually have to remove the motor because there's not enough room the bend it enough to get the end out of the tube.

If I was going to be hunting large deadly animals like moose, grizzly or brown bear, Then I would want something that carried a much heavier bullet than the 7mm Mag, The 7mm with 150 gr bullets pack more punch than the 300 with 150 gr at 500 yards. For me though, white tails, hogs and black bear are it. I went with the 7mm Mag in 1969 after buying my 6mm. They had recently installed a large pipeline through our area and there were a couple high voltage lines the power company had and those were great for being able to make extremely long shots. My longest was 780 yards with the 7mm Mag. We had quit hunting and gotten back to the vehicles parked up on a ridge when a large buck was standing where I had just left from. Coming back to the vehicle I had counted my paces and knew the distance. My friend commented "you think you are such a good shot, let me see you drop him" and I did. Counting paces and figuring distances is something I have always done when walking, and that has made me pretty darn good at guessing the yardage on long shots. I also do a lot of long range practicing. I've seen people try shots of several hundred yards that had never fired a rifle at that range and had no clue of the ballistics of their bullets. Naturally all they usually do is waste a bullet.

Which boat? My Javelin has a has a 48 gallon tank and no, I rarely ever fill any boat tank. Been doing this long enough to know about how much I will burn and add a few extra gallons just for a cushion. If I know I'm going every few weeks, I add some Seafoam. If I know my boat is going to be sitting or has sat for more than a month or so, I pump it out and put it in a vehicle. I will never run this junk we get today they call gas, over a couple months old, in any outboard motor. I also will only run top tier gas in everything I have. It's bad enough, and this crud these discount stations have will even screw up a lawn mower engine. A lot also have to do with how a boat is stored. If in a garage of good shelter where it's out of the sun, the gas will keep a little longer. If the boat is out where it's heated by sun most of the day, gas in the tank will loose octane and start breaking down very quickly. If a portable tank is left out exposed, maybe a week.

I was reading one of the post talking about swapping the Remington X Mark Pro trigger for a Timney I have three rifles with Timney triggers in them, but they are not Remington's, and yes they are nice if you don't mind spending an additional $200 plus for a trigger in a $400 rifle. However after I finished the Remington trigger, I'll put it up against a $200 Timney any time. I have two of the X Mark Pro triggers and both on a very clean crisp 2 pound pull and have taken one down to an eight ounce pull just to see how it would do. Could not make it fire without pulling the trigger, slamming the bolt home or hitting the rifle but took it back to two pounds. These are both without the external adjustable trigger I polished the sear, trigger, and trigger pin to a mirror finish with. The factory spring is .250" long and about six turns of .026 - .027 wire. I made one the same length but with five turns of .020" wire. It was about perfect. It let me adjust it so there was some compression and still give me two pounds of pull. I'm not a fan of cutting coils out, that's dangerous, so I make my own springs. One word of caution to anyone that wants to try adjusting their own. Both of mine are the post recall triggers without external adjustment that Remington put the dot on the bolt release and they did not intend for anyone to mess with them. The set screw holding the trigger spring is just filled and can be cleaned out and adjusted. The ones holding the sear adjustment and the trigger travel, have a ton of thread locker on them and no way you are going to turn them without a lot of heat. When you finally get them hot enough to melt the thread locker, probably close to 300f, they screw out no problem. Without heat, you are just going to break the sockets in the allen screws if you try turning them. Now, I've been modifying my own triggers for over 50 years so I have a little experience with them, but I would strongly suggest the novice shooter not to try messing with the sear adjustment or travel adjustment, that's why they locktite the crap out of them. I will also mention, Remington does a poor job on timing the safety sear that hold the firing pin back and the bolt notch. In most they are up to 1/8" off and why you get that double click when you start closing the bolt and the bolt is hard to close. The first click is the firing pin coming out of the little notch in the bolt, the second is the sear holding the firing pin back as the lugs are pulling the bolt forward as you close the bolt. If the timing is right, the second click should not be there, you just roll the handle all the way down with no more than just the spring tension for resistance. They don't close as smooth as a Seiko but the close a heck of a lot better than out of the box. I have had to take almost 1/8" off the back of the sear that holds the firing pin back on both of these triggers to get a smooth bolt closure.

I think the 6.5 130 and 140 grain bullets would be doable at 500 yard on a white tail deer but about the only thing I would shoot at that range is a coyote. Those I would try at 1,000. If I can't get a good, clean head shot at a deer, I'm not going to shoot it and 200 yards is about the max I've done that. I watch a lot more deer walk by than I shoot, that I could have easily shot if I wanted to make a body shot About 95% of the deer I have killed in the past 50 years have been less than 100 yards. If I was going to be trying shots on any game animal past 300 yards, it would probably be with my 7mm Mag. and since I don't go out West for pronghorns and white tail deer, mostly small ones at that, is all we have around here, the 7mm Mag hasn't been used in a long time. Actually, about then is when Redfield first came out with their Accu-Range scopes I actually liked the center post scopes, I used a Redfield wide view with it on one rifle up until a couple years ago until I replaced it with one of the newer FFP MOA retical scopes

If you reading 12v on a ground, That means it's no longer connected to ground/battery negative so it has probably melted the copper conductor at the motor or somewhere along the path. Take a continuity reading between the back of the tach and battery negative. Reading a voltage without a load can lie to you. You can have a blown fuse that reads voltage but as soon as you turn on what it controls and place a load on it, the voltage goes away. If it's not lighting a test lite, monitor the voltage with meter, connect light and see if voltage goes away. Can't get into much detail, I guess I broke a knuckle today and it's swollen, and supper painful to try on type on this keyboard. You are going to have to find where that short is/was, or you are asking for trouble.

I'm a gun nut, I have guns for hunting, just plain old shooting holes in paper, home defense, and personal defense. About the only time I have one for personal defense with me is when traveling. If I start getting even a little drowse, I find a place to park it and take a short nap. When stopped and asleep, one is at very high risk of coming in contact with an undesirable. Because of this, I keep a 10mm Glock, in my hand and under something covering it. Of course that also leads to other problems like making sure the state you are in, honers your states CCP and knowing the laws of all the states you plan to travel in. Like in Texas, I stopped in a mall parking lot to catch a nap and the cover I had over the gun had slipped and a cop could see the tip of the barrel when he looked in. Guns not allow to be visible, got me called out and jacked up. Other than this, I never carry a gun for personal protection, it's just too inconvenient. I'm retired military, and going on base, can't even have one in the vehicle. When going into any medical facility, and at 73 I'm doing that quite often these days, can't even have a pocket knife. The main lake I fish and ramp I use, big sign, no firearms beyond this point, before you get to the ramp. A number of the stores and businesses we go in, NO GUNS ALLOWED greets you at the door and I don't care to provide the crook that pilfers my vehicle with a small hand cannon. I also don't lock my vehicle, that saves having the windows broken, because If they want to get in it, they are going to. I laugh at my wife locking her VW Beetle Convertable, like that's going to stop someone. As for those that carry, I also have a concealed carry permit and for those that do carry, I had much rather shop in a store you are in. I feel all if all stores put a big sign on the doors "Discount for all shoppers with concealed weapon" that would slow down a robber. Who would want to rob a store and have the chance of a bunch of guns pulled on you. I just find it too inconvenient for me.

I guess I'm missing something, since I've never been in a kayak, and never had a desire to. Got into a 13' canoe once, for about 30 seconds, and got back out while I was still dry, knowing that was not for me. I have spent countless numbers of hours in my 17' Grumman wide bodied cargo canoe, and to stand up in even that without outriggers on it, I don't think so.

Wait another 20 years and see how many pie plates you can hit freehand at 500yds. A pie plate at 300 is about my max these days and a coke can at 100. With this 6.5 CM I've built, I'm not even sure I could hold it up long enough to even shoot it free hand, that sucker is Heaavvyy. They call the barrel on it a #7 heavy varmint. I think the #7 must stand for how many pounds the barrel weighs. Add a 23oz scope, the action and stock and it's a load to carry from the house to the truck. However, I'm getting so I feel better about it each load I check. Pretty soon I'm gonna be trying for the one inch group at 500 yards. Trying to save on bullets, I shot it Friday morning at 400, shooting three shot groups and between 40.5 and 42 grains with 140ELD-M's they were all between 5/8 and 1 inch, so that didn't help much for getting the perfect load dialed in. The mirage was terrible that morning and that didn't do much for shooting tight groups. Somewhere around 41.5 is where it's seems to like.

Couple other tips on trailer bearing. Have two new seals in hand to start with. To save a trip, you will probably want to go ahead and get at least one kit the has both bearings and seals, You need to knock the back bearing out, and it's held in by the seal, this pretty much destroys the seal, plus the seals should be replaced each year. Forgot to mention, use something flat on top of the seal to tap it back in, don't just hammer it, it will dent and deform the seal and cause it to leak. To check for wear, first look at the surface the seal runs on and see how much of a grove it has worn. A slight grove is ok, a noticeably deep grove will probably need a repair sleeve. Now, without being able to show you, what's slight and deep is up to your judgement. Next, look at the spindle surface where the bearings ride. On that axle the spindle should be the same size without out any low spot signs of wear from the bearing. This will mean the bearings inner race is spinning on the spindle and that's not good. Inspect the bearings after cleaning the up good. If they are blue or have any pits or signs of wear, replace them and the race/cone. They are just too dang cheap to take a chance on just how bad one can ruin your day if it burns out. Hope you know how to pack a bearing or get you a cheap bearing packer. The bearing must be filled with grease and not just rub grease around the outside. To do that by hand, place a blob of grease in the palm of your hand and keep pinching some off with the large edge of the bearing and forcing it up through the bearing pressing it against your palm until it comes out the other side, rotate it a little and keep doing that until you have gone all the way around. Tighten the nut until spinning the wheel starts getting pretty good resistance, then back the nut off about 1/8 turn. Wheel should spin somewhat easy. Put your hands on the tire 180 degrees apart and try shaking the tire back and forth, there should be no more that a slightly noticeable movement. Too loose and you get tire wear, too tight and it doesn't have a grease film and burns out. Hope this helps, and you might already know all this, but I'm guessing not.

Yes, stainless staples are fine if you can find them for your gun. Home Depot and Lowe's carry a few, sometimes, for the Arrow T-50. I have an air stapler I bought just to find SS staples I use because I also do my on recovering of the seats. For tongue weight, just let it rest on a set of bathroom scales and try to get about 40 - 50 pounds on it, try not to get below 30, that's more than enough for no more weight you will probably end up with. Not enough tongue weight will make one want to swish back and fourth some. A heavy load can make the whole vehicle move back and fourth, a light load like your boat will probably make it just eat tires and hard breaking can be dangerous.

I guess I should have explained. The trailer is good for what you have it and the 2/4's length is OK. However, it does need a lot of TLC. As mentioned, go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get a pieces of that low pile, gray indoor outdoor carpet. Last time I bought any it was about $10 a yard, and that's more than enough for those bunks, unless you want to lay a piece in the bottom also for noise deadening. Also, a pressure treated 2x4, if they have one, PT lumber is hard to find and expensive right now. If you don't have Stainless fasteners, get you some aluminum siding nails to put that carpet. Remember, carbon steel rust. You don't want the bunks too long. They need to be just off center to the rear so they naturally fall to the back for getting the boat on. Too long, and they will dig into the ground when you back up. Just making them longer toward the front will make getting the boat on the trailer difficult because they will be sticking up in the air. The bunks, the center and rear rollers are the ones that need to be adjustable. If the bunks are not, have the center and rear down below the hull with the boat on the trailer and then adjust them up to the hull. Also, for adjusting the proper tongue weight. Place battery, TM and everything else in the boat as it would be if you was about to go fishing. Then position the winch/stop bracket so when the boat is all the way up against it, you have about 10 - 15% tongue weight. Now if yo don't have a enough weight in the boat, that may put the boat up past the rear roller, so you might have to cheat a little on tongue weight and slide it back until it's at least sitting on the back roller.

For a small, light weight boat, something like an aluminum jon or small glass boat, it's fine. Are the rollers adjustable? You want to make sure the boat is evenly support on them, if one is too high or two low, it will cause a hook or bow in the hull.

If you go for a full day and do much running around, a three might leave you short. There's been numbers of times I've run three or four gallons in a day.

With a degree in electronics and over 50 years of chasing electrons, plus a few years in industrial electrical, I managed to pick up a little knowledge about motors. There's a secret to knowledge, you don't let you neighbors know, other that a select few. As I tell most, I do most anything and fix most anything but only on one type of item, MY OWN! I am a very private person, as I tell people, I have a hard enough time taking care of my business, dang sure don't have time to get concerned with others. I've lived in this small town over 20 years and you can count on one hand the ones I know well enough to even say I know them, and my neighbor to the left of my is the only one I consider a friend. Oh!, I will say, if this was the fan motor on your AC or other AC motor, I would say you need a new start capacitor, but never seen a DC motor with a start capacitor,

If you winter fish for stripers when they come into the shallow back waters, it turns into doing it late winter when after they go back deep, in the cold. On seasons I have no plans of stiper fishing, I did mine in the late fall.

Why I do load development at 400 yards and not 100. After my last trip, I loaded up five different loads, starting a 1 grain below what should be best and went to 1 grain above what should be best. Instead of driving to the range, I decided I would try the sand pit closer to the house, just shooting off the tool box in the truck at 100yds like I normally do for quick load checks. A waste of time and five bullets. First five shots from a cold, clean barrel. I figured this would put a little fouling in the barrel and normalize the temp for when I got to where I was really wanting to test. White center is 1/2" black center is 1". Quit and came home after that. The lower right was the very first shot and they tightened up from there.

It's been a while and I guess I should clear up a couple thing about the 6.5CM I bought at BPS. The other post you see about 500yds with 6.5CM is not really the rifle this posted started with. I bought the one at BPS for a doner rifle to build me a 6.5CM. The fact it was one off the shelf just happen to be because that was the cheapest one they had (on clearance), I was just wanting a short action Now, what started off as and off the shelf 6.5CM is all in parts and pieces. The barrel was replaced with a ungodly heavy varmint match grade SS barrel. In the process of putting the barrel back on the action after fully blue printing it, a dumb mistake on my part made me have to buy a new receiver, so I got a SS and had to do all the blue printing on it. The barrel was too heavy for the stock so I have to buy another stock. The bolt was replaced with one custom fitted to the action from PT&G that's fluted in a diamond pattern and threaded bolt handle. The trigger has been swapped out for one that has been fully polished, different springs and set to a very crisp 2# pull. So, what it boils down to, the only thing that's left in this rifle I bought from BPS is the two pins holding the trigger in and the two bolts holding the action in. When I bought the new SS receiver, I found a steal of a deal on a new blued receiver also. Get me some action screws and 1/8" drill rod and make pins and it can be put back together again.

Find the source of that short before you put that new cable in. We don't won't go for that, third times a charm. The short is in the boat not the wiring harness so it could do it again. Most likely, the cable is going to be tie wrapped to the side of the boat with the other cables so getting it out might be hard

Closes thing I've come to 7-08 is the brass I shoot in my 260. Since me and my granddaughter are shooting 260's, and I only resize with a .001" shoulder bump, to keep from getting the two mixed up, I load 260 brass for hers and 7mm-08 for mine. 308 is too short and necking down that much would require neck turning. Back in the late 60's when I bought my 6mm, I looked at the 7-08 and I picked the 6mm over it, and then bought a 7mm Mag for those pipe line shots I used to hunt on back then. That one will reach out touch you.

Yes, the melt is going to start at the source of the short. Now, that's not saying the melt hasn't created other shorts if it melted other wires next to it. If only the black wire is melted, and it did not melt other wires to it, you should be ok, the only problem is, in a tight multi wire cable like the control cable about the only way to tell that is to ohm each one out. The only way it could not lead to the short is if someone grounded both ends of the black wire, which is not common. If it went all the way back to the motor, then it went though the control head where it connects onto the back of the switch. You also have to figure, this could have happened a long time ago and not recently. As long as it just over heated and melted the insulation, and not the wire itself, the short could have burned away and cleared itself and still be working fine. I would still want to find the source of the short though, would not be fun to be one the lake and see smoke start coming out of the boat. You also have to remember, the positive wire that caused the black wire to melt has to be larger than the black wire. If it is the same size, they both melt, if it is smaller it usually melts into. If it's larger, the black wire melts and it only gets warm.