rtwvumtneer6

There's a direct correlation between the temperature outside, and my bank account. When I can't actually fish, I buy. It usually starts out with a small order of plastics, line and terminal tackle (all necessary purchases) with gift cards from the holiday, then by February tubes full of rods start showing up. And then, of course I have to pair them up with a shiny new reel!

I'm going to jump in here and add, gloves that allow you to use casting gear efficiently. @Ksam1234 unfortunately I haven't found the answer. Everything I've tried, I've had to sacrifice in one area. Taking breaks and stocking up on hand warmers and carrying multiple pairs has been the best solution I've come up with.

I've got caught up in trying a lot of different brands of crank baits, but for $3.88 I would have loaded up on 1.5s. heck, if I'm just out for a casual day I'll be the first to admit I throw them stock right out of the package. I think we all know the missing number there ? I think we all know the missing number there ?

I'm trying to talk my better half into letting me flood the basement for a couple months...

Agreed... I'm dangerous with a 6'6 spinning rod and a wacky worm?

This is the first I've really set out to accomplish learning to skip. That being said, it's not the first time I've tried to skip a lure. I mean, who hasn't seen that juicy spot and thought, just maybe we could get in there lol. My biggest struggle (I think) is that I get gun shy and lock my thumb down after the lure first hits the water, out of fear of the backlash. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Hey guys! I'm setting a goal to learn to skip with a baitcaster over the winter months. I've watched a bunch of YouTube videos, bought a spool of cheap line and electrical tape, and a 3/8oz cheap-o jig that should skip pretty well. I'm about 6'2 so I'm hoping that my 7'3 jig rod will work, but I can go down to 7' if the overwhelming response requires a shorter rod. The reel I'll be using is equipped with a tension knob and a dual breaking system (inner pins and an outer dial). I'd appreciate any advice on reel settings, practice drills or any other tips and tricks that helped you to learn to skip efficiently. Much thanks, RT

When I got off the water on Saturday in Southwest, PA I said to myself, "I wish that lake had more docks." I got a couple finicky bites cranking shallow but when I got a jig up under a dock (and they were way back in there) I almost had the rod ripped out of my hand.

Any time I've overspooled a reel it will tend to over run and backlash. If taking some line off fixed the issue, it sounds like you solved the problem. Unless your needing to make long casts, IMO a spool that is a bit low is easier to manage than one that is over filled. All within reason, of course.

I'd be beating the bank with chartreuse/black back square bill.

I spent a lot of my time this summer attempting to learn how bass will react to cold fronts. It was a fun challenge to stay on a good bite through all pahses of a cold front. Now, I'm curious of the exact opposite. The fall transition began several weeks ago. Many days only reaching 60-70 degrees and 50-60 over night. Water temps have started dropping, and I am catching more bass shallow, on crankbaits and chatterbaits. They also seem to be bunched up. If I find one, it seems like I've found a few. Anyway, this past weekend and into the middle of the current week our highs have been back to the mid-80s, with lows in the upper 60's. I'm curious what, if any effect this might have on the bass? I'm hoping for a 101 type response here. The general rule of thumb, if you will. Looking forward to hearing your experiences! All the best, RT

White = shad in my book. White Flukes/jerkbaits, swim baits and swim jigs, and bladed jigs, and spinnerbaits. Thats about the extent of my white arsenal. My white plastics are primarily used as trailers. Probably a good time of year to try it if you're going to. Side note... My local waters aren't heavily populated with shad, but it still works. So, whether or not you have shad, it can work in either situation.

Good heads up. I'll have time. The one I'm at is in a mall so I'll have a day lol.

I'll have to check out the speed shad. Most of my keitech type swimbaits are used as a chatterbait trailer anyway so I could use some added toughness. Scent can always be added after the fact. And just a heads up, if you buy keitech... Don't get so excited to check them out that you tear open the package on the ride home. The Mrs. Will NOT appreciate the smell. Promise.

It would take me 3 days just to check out if they had to price match my inventory list for next year ?

When I first started bass fishing a trip to Bass Pro Shops was better than Christmas morning. Now, 90+% of my tackle and gear is bought elsewhere. My one must have are the 30 pack stikos for $10. Best and most reasonably priced alternative I have found to the GY Senko. Anyway, I'm headed to a BPS this weekend and wanted to see if there are any purchases you all make from BPS that I'm missing. Hidden gems in a world of overpriced tackle, if you will. Thanks in advance! RT

Glad to hear he's been successful. I prefer the fluoro for the fall rate. Thanks for the success story!

I've become a fan of the TK120 after using Gamakatsu for years. Thanks for sharing your experience.

My basic question is at # test fluorocarbon can a superline hook come into play? I have become a big fan of superline EWG hooks in place of a straight shank flipping hook (that's another topic, for another time). But, I've also found them effective in other applications, like increasing the fall rate on a weightless senko. So, thumbs up to the superline on straight braid or heavy fluoro, but has anyone experienced any issues with using a superline on lighter fluorocarbon, say 15# for weightless baits or Texas rigs? As a bonus... Comment your favorite fluoro knot! Thanks!

I'm a shore angler 90% of the time, so I'm stationary. Thus, any movement of the line or lure that I didn't cause is a good indication of a fish. That being said, put me in a boat (or in your case, kayak) and I start swinging on grass, rocks, twigs, etc. What I'm getting at is your jig may reach the bottom, but you may be feeling it fall off a branch or slide off a rock and mistake it for a bite. This wouldn't explain the missing appendages, but it's a trap I fall into all too often. I know this because it drives my tournament partner crazy. I swing on everything and anything the first 30 minutes in the boat until I realize we are moving. Anyway, just a different angle on the question. Give them some time. If they pick it up, it'll be in there long enough for them to check it out.

Thanks @WRB @Angry John and @RichF Just wanted to check back and say thanks for all the advice. The tournament went really well. Placed in 1st with a 3 fish limit weighing 13# 7oz. Stuck 2 fish over 5 and won lunker with a 5# 10oz monster. Can't wait for the next event... I just hope it doesn't serve up too big of a piece of humble pie!

Keep it simple.... A white, a black and a natural. For me it's Bone, Loon and Monkey Butt. I have the 90 and 110 sizes, but I prefer 110.

The trail hook on the LH prop frog has certainly been effective. The downfall, I spend a lot of time pulling out the vegetation it picks up and it keeps me out of the water. I thought it would be killer on the edges of grass but it's a magnet for picking up any little piece it runs over. I also got mine in a LTB, and I'll continue to throw it on occasion, but I'm not rushing out to buy more. You might try Stanley Ribbit Toads?

Well, looks like this will be the first time I take more (or as many) spinning rods as I do baitcasters. Thanks everyone!

Good evening, everyone! I just got a text from a fishing partner that said, "Get your gear together, we're taking the boat to the river for smallies this weekend!" Naturally I'm excited, but I'm a largemouth guy. Naturally he won't answer his phone, so here I am. Curious what you guys might suggest I take with me and rig up that I would already have in my bass arsenal? Thanks!